Pals-Spain | Beautiful Catalan Medieval Centre in a Picturesque Gulf.

Pals is a very pleasant seaside resort in Spain well known to be a beautiful Catalan Medieval centre in a picturesque Gulf located in a magnificent corner of the most scenic and charming Costa Brava highlighted by a fabulous Mediterranean coastal stretch, definitely a great destination to choose without hesitations to spend pleasurable holidays enjoying a wonderful environment but also a notable historic patrimony.

Situated at approximately at 130, 0 kilometres north of the magnificent Barcelona and part of the county of Girona in a stupendous scenery in the heart of the striking bay of Empordà at the foot of heights the Massif of Begur along a wonderful Mediterranean  coastline lined by turquoise waters flanked by picturesque high cliffs forming all together a great image of that shining jewels of Northern Catalonia.

That ravishing Iberian seashore in that section is greatly highlighted by a series of fabulous scenic inlets with marvellous beautiful natural calas, those enchanting small bright coves some of them totally hidden by promontories and rocky spurs and in many cases not accessible by steps or paths and they are certainly some of the most attractive natural landmarks of that resort.

 Those magnificent attractions ares since decades ago an Eden to practise different kinds of water sports such as diving with among the best sea beds of Spain but also a heaven for snorkeling, sailing and winds surfing, a stunning place which apart that conqueres all the lovers of those activities for the splendid landscapes encircling Pals enchanting everyone in a while.

All  those several attractions next to charming high plateaus in its immediate outskirts at the foothills of the Pyrenees form a stupendous frame around a site which boasts  in its boundaries a relevant patrimony consisting in an outstanding historical complex established in the Middle Ages absolutely outstanding and among the best preserved of the entire Iberian Peninsula created to bewitch all the visitors who love the finest art and architecture.
 
Pals lies in the Baix Empordà a splendid Comarca as it is identified in Spain a sort of sub-county which thanks to the immediate proximity of a hilly and mountainous lands of the nearest Alt Empordà form a territorial network with many opportunities to practise different kinds of outdoor activities filling every day a stay with something of exciting to do such as cycling,  mountain bike, cycle tourism and trekking among others.


Particularly attractive for all that are the areas of the Massífs of  Les Gavarres and Montgrí which with their wild and and intact environments are perfect destinations with several interesting trails and they are great beloved sites for many photographers who can immortalise rugged images of captivating landscapes  and  in addition those two territories are extremely ideal for tourists who are searching relaxation and serenity contemplating a natural setting absolutely marvellous.

In the immediate surroundings of Pals you will have the chance to visit many beautiful small centres such as Fontanillas, Begur, Regencós, Torrent and Torroella de Montgrí all them boasting notable medieval monuments of considerable historic interest ranging from the finest Romanesque to the most traditional Gothic style which find in the Catalan community one of its most fertile soil for their artistic development.

 Others wonderful seaside resorts of great appeal very close as Aiguablava and L´Estartit are further attractions the first highlighted by a fantastic panoramic Parador perched atop of a scenic cliff dominating a ravishing gulf and the second a notorious destination for scuba diving  with the presence of the of the beautiful tiny Illes Medes archipelago, a wonderful group of uninhabited islets a short distance offshore from the local coast, both destinations easily reachable in just some minutes driving great and suggested radial excursions from Pals. (In the case you are interested I wrote posts regarding those two places)

Excellent communications permit to reach in a very short time many other resorts of the Costa Brava, Barcelona is naturally a great inviting attraction situated at less than two hours driving away and not far you can also reach Figueres, famous centre to be the birthplace of the genius Salvador Dalí taking the chance to visit the museum dedicated to that great Surrealist artist and once there you are at the frontier with France which offers in that specific territorial corner a unique occasion to to discover an endless list of beauties in the Languedoc-Roussillon region.

A notable range of comfortable accommodations,Hotels, apartments, houses, a mild climate all year and a delicious gastronomy loyal to the best local traditions are certainly other highlights to take in very high consideration. All that and much more are an incentive to choose a place as Pals as very pleasant destination for an enjoyable stay spending great holidays.

All those stunning features elevated Pals since some decades ago as one of the most complete places with a long of things to do where the Tourism Industry found a fertile soil with very relevant incoming flows in an ideal heaven located in one of the best corners of the Northeastern Spanish coastline offering all the visitors also the chance to enjoy a rich cultural and historic tourism.

That municipality has an old history to narrate linked to a relevant past with several chronological  events with protagonist different notable civilisations such as Romans, Franks, French, Catalans and Spaniards.

The origin of Pals is dated prehistoric times according to archaeological excavations which took place in the local boundaries and surroundings but  the first major and significant historic period undoubtedly corresponds to the Roman colonisation of the Iberia or Hispania as that Italic Empire called the current Peninsula.

A version of the name of the current site it said derives since those since then from the word Palus which translated from the Latin means marshy or bog land due to the presence in those ancient times of many ponds and small lagoons a few hundred metres from the local coast.

As everywhere there are different suppositions, debates and controversial opinions  regarding the origin of denominations and another one more classical and related to the Hellenic suggestive and mystical narrations is that it was called by some Greek explorers during their trips across the Mediterraean Palas Athina to pay homage to the mythological Greek Goddess of war which perhaps was established by a temporary settlement of colonists of that iconic civilisation.

  

The Romans were certainly the most important rulers and erected in the current boundaries a fortified Castrum, a camp which served as headquarter for the legions with the establishment furthermore of some towers developed along its perimeter in the 4th century.

That centre became in those times a notable point of transit of several military operations but also devoted to trades with merchants very active along the local littoral which was part of a flourishing network of maritime trade and in addition in that concrete area was also opened a strategic gate with a road leading to the interior towards the Pyrenees towards Figueres and La Jonquera the current border with France.

After several invasions by pirates, Visigoths and Moors protagonists of incursions, raids and devastations alongside the Catalan coast and Balearic islands  with the consequent fall of the Roman Empire the territory became later a stronghold of the Franks who established in that land one of their emblematic and historical strongholds highlighted by a new system of government with a concrete and defined territorial subdivision.

Those changes were pioneers of the formation of counties ruled in the following historic stages by members of the famed Carolingian dynasties who had a veryimportant influence for a long time in that geographic corner of Southern Europe.

In the Middle Ages Pals had a notable escalation as historic site when in its boundaries was erected a castle commissioned by the son of the Count Robert D´ Anjou, the King Eudes I King of France in the 9th  century. That noble character was a direct  descendant of a famous branch of the Franks  well known to have been the first Monarch of the notorious Capétien dynasty crowned with the title of Sovereign in 888 in Compiégne, a notorious historic Northern French centre in the region of Picardie.

That fortress was probably ended according to historic documentations just one year later of that coronation and it was called in Latin language Castelatum Montis Asperus and in the Francophone denomination Chateau de Mont Áspre which translated means Castle of the Sharp Mount because elevated on the slopes on the Puig D´Aspre, a hill with a very sharp shape.

Pals as many other places in the Medieval era lived periods under influences of noble and powerful families who created a traditional feudalistic regime and the current resort was in the 10th century was part of a network of  domains governed by the famous Counts of Barcelona heirs for right of that land as landlords descendants of the Carolingian House  who fought against Britons, Saracen pirates and Moors for a very long time to keep their influence in Catalonia.

The Count Borrel II consolidated that domain inherited by the dynasty after those tumultuous times lived by his predecessors established excellent diplomatic relationships with the Caliphate of Cordoba with an agreement as a sort of  treaty of non agression and with the Papal State entering since then in the sympathies of the Vatican.

  

That noble including decided to donate to the Bishop of Girona some of his lands among them Pals where was erected the Esglesia de Sant Pere, the Church dedicated to  St. Peter and a fortified area with one of the defencive towers elevated to protect its boundaries.

Despite those pretty pacific periods highlighted by strong alliances  in the course of the chronological historic steps in that Catalan gulf the local lords started to be protagonist of claims and disputes ended in clashes with numerous feudal battles, times full of conflicts especially at the end 10th century and Pals fell in the hands of a noble knight called Gausfred Vidal before to return in the sphere of the Counts of Barcelona once again in1065.

The former settlement also lived very difficult years when it was incorporated in the Kingdom of Aragon and Mallorca during the times of King Juan II when in that consolidated and powerful reign there were many riots and revolts led by a large part of the population with protagonists several farmers living a very tense atmosphere with a long period of struggle.

All that was generated by a rebellion due to a total submission of the locals who felt totally subdued with a total lack of autonomy in every kind of activity and all that was the cause  leading to a war called the Guerra de los Remensas which was in its kind the prologue and beginning of a general mutiny against that Kingdom also called Civil War of Catalonia  lasted approximately one century.

Several villages and towns including Pals after a hard repression were reduced to an extreme poverty with a total devastation and a consequent desolation of the local lands and also the Black Death was sadly protagonist in that Catalan centre which probably lived in that period one of its darkest historic pages all time.

In the 16th century Pals became an official town following the history of the Spanish Monarchy with a further war that one consisting in the the reunification of the Iberian crowns which determined the advent of the Bourbon House as Sovereigns of that country with also period lived under the dictatorship of the General Franco in the 20th century ended in the 70's.  

In more contemporary times apart the advent of the tourism Pals continued to have a very active business linked to agriculture especially related to the cultivation of rice considered for its reputation, quality and properties one of the best cereal grains of the entire Peninsula and with a secular tradition continuing its prestigious history.

You can start the visit from the enchanting historical borough developed in the Middle Ages  among the most attractive of the entire autonomous community of Catalonia, undoubtedly a superb highlight of Pals which also for that presence is not just a common and ordinary beautiful seaside resort but it also offers in its boundaries relevant historic and artistic marvels giving it a unique appeal and charm immediately attracting all the most passionate architecture fans.

The beautiful medieval core boasts an urban environment simply magnificent consisting in a bewitching labyrinth highlighted by captivating cobbled streets, charming squares, splendid walled sections greatly preserved, picturesque alleys and very scenic stoned arches forming appealing passages entering in a magic atmosphere as a fantastic jump in the past.

You can compare a bit the image of the old centre of Pals as  a sort of tiny replica reminiscent the famed Barri Gotic of Barcelona, that fabulous Gothic quarter of the major centre of Catalonia and 2nd  Spanish city and you will notice during the visit many details in common.

Carrer Major is the most relevant street and axis consisting in a very captivating hallway flanked by stoned medieval buildings and along it a gothic arch which was originally the main access to the beating heart of the town since medieval times a gate leading to Plaça Major the main square where you can see the Ajuntament, the Town Hall also known as Casa de la Vila.

That building can be your start point and it is also a perfect site of orientation for its stategic position.That construction loyally represents a beautiful example of the finest architecture of the Middle Ages executed and in vogue in Catalonia highlighted by ample rectangular doors, forged iron railings and a line of arched small windows inserted in its upper section.

Notable is the symmetry of all the architectural elements of the layout of the facade and you can admire the presence of a roof subdivided in two sections. The first is flat established above the main body of the stucture while the other sloping one covers the left side above a scenic window placed in a crenellated frame and all that is artistically a little masterrpiece for the creativity developed in the project of that scenic composition.

One of the  superb attractions is definitely the walled complex dating back the 13th century which was furtherly completed one century later representing in all its splendour a typical imposing defencive system studied to be an impenetrable bastion established on an irregular rectangular perimeter and highlighted by four towers.

Those majestic walls largely restored and very well preserved surround the access to the Gothic centre and they show the image of an extremely protected nucleus in every cardinal point reflecting the priority of the defence of the former settlement as a hermetic shield the rulers elevated to protect their domain but also the local population and the entire inhabited environment.

The town during its historic stages was also enlarged in particular towards east, west and partially on the southern side of its boundaries modifying the entrance of its core and today the best conserved section is visible in the walls erected in the northern area.

The Castell de Pals, the castle of Pals erected in the 9th century is certainly the iconic symbol of the seat of  the local power  in the Middle Ages but its image due to all the historic events linked to a large devastation deeply reduced and mutated its original former aspect.

The major part of the construction was largely destroyed in the war during the times of the King Jaume II of Aragon which generated many damages to the entire structure, the towers and the castle recovery in terms of restoration was very slow, pretty laborious and sadly was not possible to save all the complex.

In addition a large section was totally dismantled and some rests of the former fortress were used for the reconstruction of other local buildings. Currently what you can see of that impenetrable stronghold is a stoned facade with an arched doorway.

That iconic manor is nowadays a private house but all what remains is certainly a distinctive historic emblem highlighted by the date of construction and representing in its kind something of very relevant for the role it played for the community with a long generation of rulers linked to the Counts of Barcelona.

Closely related to that former fortress is the Torre de les Hores, the Tower of the hours which is the best preserved architectural element elevated in medieval times and it consists in an imposing stoned watchtower approximately 16,0 metres high erected on a circular plan close to that small section of the castle.

The name of the hours because on the top of a basalt structure was established in the 15th century a belfry with a bell chanting the time. Tofay it is a visitable tourist acttraction tower accessible by a rectangular doorway located at its base and once on the top you will notice the very strategic position and the perfect choice of its position dominating the entire local territory with a complete view in every direction.

 Another relevant site of very interesting value is in the proximity of that towering building and the Town Hall and it is Can Pruna, a place considered the most important archaeological area of the municipality in which were found some ancient tombs probably dating back the Visigoth period.

The Esglesia de Sant Pere is another highlight you can not miss, a Church dedicated to St. Peter consisting in the most important Religious monument built in Pals erected over a previous building probably established in the 10th century.

That Sacred temple was elevated between the 12th and 13th century and restored using some materials coming from the castle. During its history it had many restorations and different kinds of works of conservation and refurbishment but it is nowadays greatly conserved boasting a magnificent facade which reflects a stunning Romanesque element, a beautiful rose window placed above a splendid framed portal.

The ample front side was created with architectural canons  traditionally closely related to the loyal artistic concepts of the local Gothic school just like the section on the left side where was developed a towering building highlighted by two arched windows inserted in its structure.Considerable is the perfect harmony of all the elements occupying scenic positions in the layout and the marked definition on the right side of a sloping roof above two small square windows. 

The plan largely preserved its medieval Romanesque original design in the interior with 
a wide nave and the apse reflecting the former project developed in the Middle Ages conserving furthermore the Gothic style used for the construction of the transept.

The Museu Archeològic, the Archeological Museum hosted in a restored building erected between the 15th and 16th century is another mandatory which worth a visit for the relevant historic patrimony displayed in its rooms. Once there you can admire a great collection of items found in the municipal boundaries certifying the active presence of civilisations which made the history of Pals with a particular mention to the Roman period. 

In the centre you can also enjoy a beautiful view point ideal to admire a magnificent panoramic view of the Mediterranean coastline with the town of L´Estartit and the picturesque small Medes Islands and the great landscapes of the picturesque hills of the Empordà which are another scenic natural highlight of that corner of Catalonia.

That fascinating site is called Mirador Josep Pla dedicated to a Catalan writer and journalist native of Palafruguell a town not far from Pals.That figure fell in love with that stunning place which was for him a great source of inspiration for his works becoming an usual destination spending hours and hours contemplating the striking landscapes of his homeland from the top of that Puig as is called a hilly plateau offering from its summit a fantastic views overlooking that picturesque gulf.

All that was probably was a relevant inspiring message to create some of his most famous publications such as Viatge a Catalunya, Travelling to Catalonia and Guia de la Costa Brava, Costa Brava Guide entirely dedicated to the beauty of his motherland.In those works that man made a special promotion of his beloved community with a detailed description of those places highlighting the beauty of the Baix Empordà in all its splendour generating with his captivating narrations an incentive for many tourists to visit that fabulous little Eden called Pals.

A further attraction of the resort is certainly the immense fascination of the local beaches and among them one which worth a special mention is Platja de Pals one of the great natural jewels of that shoreline and also famous for a very special history.

Its name was originally Grau which means port because in the past the surface of that coastal stretch was occupied by a former harbour situated in the inland at approximately 6, 0 kilometres from the local coast. In old times that place was a swampy area which was healed and later on its soil was established a dock which became in the course of the years an official port.

All the land started to be covered by vineyards and it is crossed by waters of different streams which permitted thanks to the compounds contained in the subsoil the implantation of many other trees and plants with a consequent development of a new environment in which were also added rice paddies and pines.

That mutation of the environment, the local mild climate, the winds and the sea strength also formed a specific habitat very rich of fish and in particular an ideal site populated by many sardines. Due to the varied properties represented by the marine flora, the beds of those fresh waters streams and marshes that kind of fish found a perfect environment for its reproduction and  all that generated a great resource for the local fishing industry which had a notable increasing activity thanks to all that.

The beach is a wonderful sandy stretch lined by crystalline waters, it is approximately 3, 5 kilometres long attracting in a while many tourists who can find due to that relevant longitude a tranquil haven anytime without problems od space enjoying sunbaths and relaxation.

It is also more than appropriate for every kind of water sports, ideal destination for all people who love to find a sunny place, perfect for families with children who can enjoy along that spectacular bright line highlighted by soft light sand a small paradise because the depth close to the shore is not very high for the joy of the young and at the same time swimming in very clean waters for a total absence of pollution.

Not far in the municipality of Begur you can visit another magnificent beach called Platja de l´Illa Vermella, the beach of the Red Island simply spectacular. It is a narrow sandy cove flanked by majestic picturesque cliffs beautiful all day but in particular at sunset when the sun rays reflecting on those rocks give that place a very special and enchanting charm.

That beach is 120, 0 metres long and approximately 20, 0 metres wide but it is simply impressive for its scenic appeal, located beneath a wild rocky wall covered by pines and just some metres offshore there is a high marvellous cliff. It is  in addition a site very loved by all those who are fond of snorkeling thanks to a seabed extremely rich of marine vegetation and fauna and in the last decaded frequented by nudists.

In the immediate proximity there are other beautiful beaches formed by sandy dunes which have a very particular flora due to the local climate and the marine salt which generated the formation of some particular species such as Androcymbium Europeaum and Kakile Maritime among others and apart the beauty of the environment, they are  great places in their its kind also for those visitors who love to study and analyse determined plants present in a specific Mediterranean coastline.

Naturally Pals thanks to those beautiful marvels and its crystalline waters is a little paradise to practise scuba diving and it is a destination particularly loved by many people who want sailing in peace and serenity recharging batteries all year except summer season, a period when the entire Costa Brava has a very high occupation.

Another notable activity you can practise in that area is Golf and all the lovers of that trendy sport can find some complexes of very high reputation such as Golf Serres de Pals, Golf Platja de Pals and the Empordà Golf Club excellent places boasting a notable fame and all located in magnificent natural environments.

The resort conserves around its municipality wide intact green areas and forests in particular populated by pines. In that area is very common the presence of the Pino Blanco, the white Pine, species you can find numerous especially in proximity of the heights of Les Gavarres. That area is particularly loved by several photographers and people devoted to botanic studies who frequenty  choose to visit that high plateau as a special destination for the massive presence of that kind of tree.

The proximity of those hills and the Massif of the Empordà are also an Eden for all people who loves trekking, cycling and mountain bike with many wonderful  mixed trails with challenging climbs, wild woody paths and a wonderful nature all around.

Along those trails a visitor can combine beautiful varied itineraries some are very attractive because there is a great alternation of wild hillside sections covered by forest  and scenic open view points overlooking the Mediterrnean and others starting from a magnificent point located at a determined altitude and ending alongside a spectacular coastal stretch moving from a territory to another totally different for image and scenery.

In the immediate vicinity you can also visit small centres but very interesting and I suggest you one called Torrent. That tiny municipality despite its reduced size boasts a relevant historic monument as the Castillo de Torrent, a manor erected in the 14th century consisting a large stoned building highlighted by a big arched doorway and fine medieval architectural lines.

Another attraction is the small Santuari de Sant Llop, a Baroque Shrine erected in the 18th century. It was developed on a rectangular base highlighted by a gable facade with an oculus and on its front side over the portal you can see a framed plaque with inscriptions and Religious symbols with another attractive architectural highlight consisting in a stylish belfry placed on the roof.

Another place I recommend to visit is Torroella de Montgrí famous for the presence of Castell del Montgrí, a castle elevated in medieval times between the late 13th and the early  14th century by King Jaume II and it is one of the most important strategic fortified structures established by the Crown of Aragon in that Catalan territory.

In  that centre you can admire other interesting medieval attractions as the gate of Santa Caterina with an imposing circular tower called Torre de las Bruixes and do not miss the charming municipal square named Plaça de la Vila which boasts a beautiful architectural setting around its Town Hall.

The local Cuisine is another superb incentive to enjoy a delightful gastronomy simply great and extremely loyal to the old traditions mainly based on fish, grilled and fried but also excellent are seafood and mollusks always fresh and more than appreciated.

Very popular is a plate called Suquet de Peix consisting in a delicious fish casserole containing as ingredients cod, haddock, hake, prawn adding, tomato, garlic, onion, parsley, potatoes and almonds, all that seasoned with olive oil, salt and pepper. The Congre amb Pèsol is another traditional recipe in which the conger is combined to peas in a delicious dish highly appreciated.

Other delights which boast a very high reputation are the local Anchovies and Sardines prepared in different styles and great is also the superb quality of prawns and lobster. A local product very famous is the rice, considered for its quality one of the best of the entire Iberian Peninsula used to prepare a delicious Arroz de Marisco, a delectable seafood rice.

Notable is in the immediate interior is the production of local sausages such as the iconic Fuet, a kind of thin salami excellent for starters, snacks and appetisers. Worth a mention the emblematic Botifarra, a traditional row pork sausage flavoured with garlic and spices.It  is often used in stews, casseroles and in a typical plate called Botifarra amb Mongets in which that pig product is cooked with beans or also used in another famed recipe called Escudella, a soup which also includes rice or as variant pasta, cabbage, carrots and celery.

 

Regarding bakery and cakes very traditional are the Bunyols and Taps very famous all around Catalonia and also in other areas of Spain.

The fine wines of the Empordà such as Blau, Pur, Amic, Mallolet and Sinols are superb thanks to a mild climate in a magnificent geographic point in which the Mediterranean breeze meets the light winds of the local hills establishing together a very favourable micro climate for the plantation of excellent grapes.All that is greatly combined to a fertile soil with excellent properties favouring in addition the cultivation of others which find a a more than suitable habitat to produce other supreme and selected wines as a great Cava and a superb Cremant among others.

It is very easy to reach Pals, the International Airport of Girona is situated just 55,0 kilometres away and  from that Catalan city there are Bus services with departures at Girona Estació D´Autobusos, the bus coach station situated in the square Plaça Espanya. The trip endures approximately one hour or a bit more while by car you will take about 40 minutes to reach the resort driving by C-66 via Torroella de Montgrí.

El Prat Barcelona Airport could be another excellent option, it is located at 142, 0 kilometres south of Pals and inapproximately 1 hour and 40 minutes driving by AP-7 motorway via Sant Feliu de Guixols you will be easily at destination.I added below some links with some recommended accommodations useful to plan your future stay in that resort.

Pals is a splendid destination with a mild climate all year and its charming historic medieval centre is a superb masterpiece, a very relaxing and captivating destination always enchanting in a while a multitude of tourists surprised to face an extraordinary beauty all around its boundaries.

That seaside a resort on a marvellous Mediterranean coastline with a very distinctive charm in a picturesque gulf is a site highly inviting to spend a more than enjoyable stay keeping pleasant memories and the desire to return there as soon as possible once again.

Francesco Mari

Recommended Accommodations in Pals

Hotel La Costa Golf & Beach Resort

Hotel Mas Salvi

Hotel & Restaurante Sa Punta

Recommended Restaurants in Pals

Restaurante Sa Punta

Restaurante font de Sabrruixa

Restaurante Vicus

Restaurante El Vaixell de Pals  

 Useful links

www.palsturisme.com 

www.pals.cat
www.resortlacosta.com
www.massalvi.com
www.hotelsapunta.com
www.turismopals.com
es.costabrava.org