Thursday 31 January 2013

Ghar El Melh-Tunisia | Sparkling Blue Waters in a Wonderful Gulf.



Ghar El Melh is a splendid coastal town of Tunisia with sparkling blue waters in a wonderful gulf.

That coastal town is located at just 63,0 kilometres north of the Capital Tunis along  Plage Sidi Ali El Mekki  a spectacular beach approximately  40,0 kilometres south east of Bizerte.

That site has a long history to say and narrate,a place which was land of conquest by many civilisations for its strategical position under the promontory of Ras Al Jebel and protected by Cap Rafraf with an easy access to the Gulf of Tunis,Gammarth and La Marsa.

All that meant once landed there to be at a very short distance from the capital of the country.It not a case due all that in the past Ghar El Melh was also a special place for the Maltese,Berbers and Saracens pirates who found in that maritime corner a great refuge along its coastline which forms a sort of lagoon with access to the sea.

That coastal conformation and of the territory was always a safe haven and away from immediate attacks by the sea,a hidden shelter in a gulf and known in old times by navigators and corsairs with the name of Porto Farina.

 The current town with its 5,500 inhabitants is situated at the foot of the hill Djebel Nadour and it is famous to have one of the most beautiful beaches of Tunisia,the Sidi Ali El Mekki beach a great extension of golden sand lined by sparkling blue waters  absolutely spectacular.

 That long and wide sandy stretch is often promoted in the stand of Tunisia in International Fairs and Tourist events a divine attraction in that Mediterranean Sea corner.

The beaches of Tunisia have that great advantage,longitude,width and an excellent quality of soft sands and due the absence of pollution a fantastic quality of blue waters,no gravel and the sands are soft as cotton.

Another special feature is that there are not barriers to reach them,they are generally very  accessible and the large offering a wide space with an excellent capacity is more than appreciated.

The name Ghar El Melh means cave of salt due the presence of saline,the inhabited village is located approximately 4,5 kilometres of the coast developed in that place since the times when the local coastline was infested by pirates and the population moved towards the immediate interior.

 Despite the beauty of that iconic beach and a magnificent coastal stretch that town started late to be a tourist destination and it never reached the levels of the famed Sousse,Djerba,Hammamet or also of the nearest Ghammart.

The main local activities have always been fishing and agriculture with a relevant presence of poultry and sheep farmers.Some decades ago more than half of the population was linked to those activities,today is the fishing one of the major sources of the town thanks also the development of the new port.

Fishing reached since the 90s a relevant level with a further enlargement of the harbour which can host almost 250 boats and for a town of that size and population is of course a sort of record taking in consideration that over 1800 people are dedicated to that activity.

The most important and profitable place to fish is the lagoon,corresponding to the old harbour which  is formed by a maritime hollow area situated between the promontory of Raf Raf to the north and the plains of El Kelaat Andalous to the south close to the nearby village of Aousja.

In that point was developed a sort of extra radius agglomeration with a road which leads up to the outskirts of Tunisi in proximity of Ariana practically not far from the entrance of the national road which leads to La Marsa and La Charguia one of the first access to Halq Al Wadi,the port of the capital well known also with the name La Goulette.

The history of Ghar El Melh is very old and also very interesting simply for the chronological events which gave every time despite its small size a very cosmopolitan aspect.

The first settlers were the Phoenicians who landed on that coast occupying that wide and wonderful gulf.That ancient civilisation well known to have great sailors,craftsmen and famous for their devotion to the manufacture of objects and the trade of the purple.

Those settlers founded several towns in Tunisia,one of them was Ghar El Melh and those colonists  developed an important harbour,establishing  a relevant emporium transforming that settlement in a superb maritime cross point commerce between east and west from Lebanon to the Iberian Peninsula.

The town was known since the Carthaginian and Roman times as Rusucmona originally built in the interior and its port was called Utica,an ancient settlement not far the river Medjerda, approximately at 33,0 kilometres north of the the ancient and famous Carthage.

 Utica in that period was probably one of the most important harbours in the entire Maghreb area and always included in the major routes reaching the islands of Malta,Sicily,Tunis and passage by merchants coming from the Middle East.

That place became soon a stronghold of the Carthaginians who continued to use the port as their predecessors until the Punic wars when that powerful city fell after those famous events against the Imperial Rome.

The former town was previously attacked several times by the Greeks of Sicily but never fell in Hellenic hands.

The Roman conquest privileged Carthage in all the main activities elevating as Capital of the province of Africa but the Roman Emperor populated the current Ghar El Mehl with Greeks colonists who developed in a sort of total autonomy relevant activities such as trade with the motherland and the first basis of an active fishing organisation.

The decline of the former Rusucmona and Utica started in the 3rd century when the territory was considered less important than others for the development of new routes of commerce.

The fate of the town in its historical stages after the fall of the Roman Empire was a total lack of defence and often easy to sack by Berber pirates who continued to attack the local coasts before the advent of the Byzantines protagonists of several battles and disputes with those invaders.

 In the 6th century and later,until the occupation of the Vandals who totally sacked the town,The golden ages of Ghar El Mehl ended and the town became a stronghold of Saracen pirates,the locals escaped from such dangerous and unsafe place and they mainly moved in the interior  in proximity of Aousja.

The Moorish occupation of the entire Maghreb gave that place for a long period peace but in the meantime under those rulers were developed other major ports and the former Rusucmona was pretty excluded by the main trades in the Mediterranean. .

It is in the 16th century when Spain new Maritime power conquered that land and Ghar El Melh had a sort of renaissance.

The King Charles V ordered to build a fortress in the year 1534 despite that fortress had a short life,approximately 120 years,when the English Navy led by the Admiral Robert Blake attacked and destroyed the Spanish fortress.

It was the famous period of the Anglo-Spanish War when England for the trade domain in the Mediterranean attacked and destroyed many Spanish fortresses along the Maghreb coastline in Morocco and also Tunisia.Including the British fleet attacked and sank some Iberian galleons carrying gold and valuables in the port of Cadiz and in the Canary Islands.

After the devastation of that fort,Ghar El Melh came back to be a base for pirates and buccaneers once again.Former English soldiers,Maltese and and Saracen corsairs occupied the town which lived period of terror and several disputes within those new inhabitants.

Some years later the powerful Ottoman Empire troops landed on those Tunisian coasts leaded by Usta Mourad,a Dey of the Turkish Empire.

A Dey in that period was a figure who covered one the most high military position in the Empire with also important charges related to political issues too.

Some Ottoman Imperial dynasties suppressed the symbol of the Dey in several occasions due possible political reversals,they were generally figures very charismatic,always able to create plots,for many Turkish Pacha the increase of prestige of a Dey often resulted as a very inconvenient  situation despite their military successes.

The Dey Usta Mourad was an important character for the development of the town,thanks his cosmopolitan background.He was a Levantin Turkish General with Genoese father and Turkish mother.

That governor had several contacts with the Marine Republics of Genoa and Pisa and including he met several times Spanish Ambassadors,an important and distinguished figure in that time.

That man repopulated Ghar El Melh with Moorish Andalusian people expelled from Spain by King Felipe III  after the reforms in the 17th century in the Iberian country.

The town had a sort of architectonic renaissance with several new small houses with patios and small areas cultivated by the new settlers and the construction of several wells for the collection of water suitable for the irrigation of the territory.

The farmers started to develop a very organised agriculture,they were in major part from Andalusia and it is for that the nearest area south of Ghar El Mehl is called Kelaat El Andalus.

The area became in a short time acquired a very cosmopolitan aspect with a good number of Turkish and Levantine colonies who came to establish trades and commercial activities, Berber people coming from the interior of the country and those former Arab-Andalusian established in that Tunisian town.

During that period the pirates continued to be an insidious enemy also due the new flourishing period under Ottoman rule and the town was attacked several times

The Turkish influence was very important for the construction of the fortress which can be seen today.In the 19th century.The Pacha Ahmed El Bey decided to build a new defencive system around the town including a military port and redeveloping the town with other colonies of people coming from Malta, France and Sicily.

Ghar el Melh increased furthermore that cosmopolitan image obtained in the previous centuries with new activities and an improvement about trade and fishing.

The French colony was in majority formed by artisans and people engaged in small factories.The Maltese were the most numerous colony mainly traders,some of them started smuggling activities while the Sicilians were mainly experienced fishermen,sailors who devoted themselves to teach the local, fishing,with new modern techniques and especially in high sea an activity until then never been practised by locals.

 In the 19th century when Tunisia became in the year 1881 a French protectorate,the situation radically changed.France started a strong and intense fight against smuggling with severe customs controls.

Many Maltese and Sicilians settlers did not accept to take the Tunisian nationality and returned to their respective countries.The town remained with those descendants of the Moorish Andalusian settlers and the town was repopulated with new French colonies and the majority ethnicity was represented by local Berbers.

The history of Ghar El Mehl continued parallel to that of the country and in the year 1956 with the independence of Tunisia followed the country's history until today.That is in short the history of Ghar El Melh,there are many histories very interesting in Tunisia for the several events had this country.

The centre of the town is mainly developed along Avenue Bourguiba,approximately 5,5 kilometres away from the beach.

The reason is that the proximity of the river Mejerba to the port did not give the opportunity to develop an urban arrangement due the high volume of water concentrated in that area which often needed to be drained.

The works to improve the quality of the old port in the lagoon started in the late 19th century but many attempts failed.

In the 70s after several studies and projects came the solution with the construction of a new harbour and a strong dam protecting the Kelaat El Andaluus docks,the old port is still used anyway for fishing.

The coastline of the town is almost 7,0 kilometres long starting from the headland of Cap Sidi Ali Mekki running until the limit of the harbour.

The major part of the population lives in the area around Avenue Bourguiba while the rest mainly lives in the interior in the rural areas dedicated to the agriculture in Zouaouine and Bejou.

Ghar El Melh lagoon is one of the local attractions,not only because it was the old port was situated.The perimeter of that area is over 20,0 kilometres connected by a small canal which flows in the Mediterranean sea south of the small forest of Rafraf situated in proximity of a sharp promontory.

That place is particularly suitable for the fishing of sea bass,mullet and also heel the latter loves to live at determinate temperature and found in those waters the right natural habitat.Almost a quarter of the total fish caught per year in that town comes from that saltwater lagoon.

In the southern side of the local coast there are a couple of other small salt ponds almost adjacent to the lagoon.Some years ago that natural space was declared of particular International Interest for the biodiversity and humid area particularly suitable for the study of zoologists specialising in fish species.

One of the historical highlights of Ghar El Nehl is the ancient Turkish Arsenal called El Kishla you can see in the old port and dating back the late 17th century.

It was developed in a period in which it was the most organised military structures of the entire country and the Ottoman Bey Mourad III ordered to build a long low building with vaulted arches hosting 17 galleries on the back of the port, under its arcades.

They were used as workshops,mainly blacksmiths,ceramic handcrafts,small shops,other galleries were used for shipyards,there was also a small Chapel for religious rites.

In addition there were two prisons one for the pirates captured during the attacks,another one for rebels and slaves while other galleries were dedicated to hosts the guards.The rest was mainly occupied by the arsenal which was since the beginning the main purpose of that site.

That place was a sort of little town in the town,that long building under the hill of Djebel Nadour was restored in the 80s after a long period of decline and abandon and today shows you perfectly how was organised an Ottoman multi purpose construction.

A replica of others similar constructions were erected in that period in the motherland and in some territories under Turkish rule in the 17th century.

Borj Lazarit is the fortress you can see in proximity of the entrance of the town.Built externally to a wide paved cobblestone area,it has two large ditches on its sides and a narrow central passage flanked by low walls which leads to the Bab the central doorway.

That gate has an arcade reminiscent to a Mirhab, that curved section supported by two side stoned columns which form a sort of tiny portico.The central facade is slightly more of the higher with strong walls which have a series of curved and rectangular windows in the lower part of the building.

Some narrow windows and vents were placed at the top.Erected in 1659 by the Ottoman Bey Pacha Al Hammoud and that fortress is pretty well conserved and it was used until the 19th century as an Al Karraka,a prison.

Borj Al Wistani is another Ottoman fortress,older than the previous,the construction of that fortress is dated 1640.The architectonic style is in part similar to the other,with a central passage flanked by two low walls and ditches on both sides.

The arcade is supported by two columns with capitals and the walls are very similar to the walls of the Alcazar of Seville you can admire flanking in the Andalusian city in the famous Barrio de Santa Cruz.

The upper section of the walls was built with battlements with sharp and pointed terminals in typically  Moorish-Andalusian and you can see the hand and style of the architect who built the fortress was an Andalusian-Moorish called Al Hadj Jamiir Al Andaluus Al Ghamati.

That man was of  those immigrants from Andalusia who came in Ghar El Mehl in the 17th century. As the Borj Lazarit also this fortress was used as prison apart the defencive purposes.

The third fortress called Borj Al Loutani was built in the same period of Borj Lazarit,lower than the others,it is situated on the road not far from the old harbour.

The perimeter consists in low strong walls on the sides and presents crenellated towers on its corners.The entrance consists in an arched doorway located between a tower and a wing which housed the guardhouse.
That Borj was used as base of a military division of artillery and just like the others as a prison.

All those fortresses with the arsenal El Kishla were declared Cultural and Historic Patrimony of Tunisia since the year 1922.

During the period of the French protectorate and also some years after the Tunisian Independence,those buildings were used as prison until the year 1964.In that year the President Bourguida in a meeting with his ministers decided to abolish those prisons and from there started a process of restoration which gave excellent results.

In the town you can see a low white building surrounded by a garden with a tower,a low Minaret with the same colour and it is the Hotel de Ville,the Town hall.Built on a rectangular plan with a blue arched doorway and windows on both side and completed by stoned step behind the walls which leads to the entrance.

 The Mosque of Ghar El Mehl reflects of the typical Tunisian architecture using the white as predominant colour but very different as style than the most important Tunisian Muslim Temples.

Some of the most famous Mosques in the country as  Jemaa Ez Zitouna oe Jemaa Al Qayrawan which used in many detailed elements of the Andalusian and Mudejar styles,with zelij and sebka decorations daughters of the historical dynasties Nasrid,Almohad and Almoravib.

In that case Jemaa Ghar El Mehl that local Mosque has a very sober style and it consists in a large rectangular plan,the Minaret tower was erected on a quadrangular square and it is attached to a side of the boundary wall.

In the upper section there some arched windows,a crenellated perimeter with an additional turret within a quadrangular space arranged on three blocks with a conical roof as terminal.The central body of that Mosque is behind the Minaret arranged on a rectangular plan with low walls and surmounted by domes.

 Sidi Ali El Mekki is the Zaouia the sacred tomb of the Holy Man Said Ali El Mekki who is buried there and that figure was one of the most prominent religious character in the town.

The Zaouia in the Muslim countries has a relevant value as pilgrimage destination and that tomb located on the hill of Al Djebal Edmina is often visited by people devoted to that man and that white structure is 
 still used today for some religious rites.

That Zaouia apart the important religious value,is a historic patrimony of the country and the municipality of Ghar El Melh gave the name of the Holy Man to its beach.During the 2nd World War,that construction was refuge of many locals who escaped in the interior of that mausoleum due a battle in proximity of the village between German and Anglo-American troops.

In Ghar El Melh there are splendid panoramic view points for all photography lovers.In proximity of the Cap Raffaf and its forest there is a splendid place to take photos with an ample and spectacular view of the entire wonderful gulf of Tunis.

From that point you can see the coastal promontory of La Marsa over La Goulette,the bay of the capital and the scenic and wide headland of Hal Haouaria while in opposite direction towards north you can admire a beautiful straight stretch of coast running under on of the capes of the other Gulf of Bizerte.

Apart the mentioned the beach Plage Sidi Ali Mekki all the local coastline also leading towards Cap Zebib at north is a festival of sparkling blue waters.

You can also stop also in proximity of Sounine that place is just some kilometres north of Ghar El Mehl and there is situated a small sharp promontory with the chance to have a very lovely panoramic view towards another small gulf.
 
 Over the coastline and walking along the hill,this place is north of the old port,the Cap Sidi Ali El Mekki,Cap Farina which is another great place to enjoy the spectacular Mediterranean views of that corner of Tunisia.

In July Ghar El Melh hosts an important event dedicated to the Photography,after some editions that meeting dedicated to that activity has reached a relevant level,with professional photographers coming from France,Italy,Germany,other countries including America and from all Tunisia.

The highlight is the captivating place of the exhibition,the works are displayed in the old fortresses and also the beach Sidi Ali El Mekki is protagonist at evening in the event.

Ghar El Melh is a great destination,you can find several hotels in the area of Bizerte and reaching that splendid historical town in a very short time.

If you want to enjoy a piece of history of Tunisia and enjoying its wonderful beach Sidi Ali El Mekki with its sparkling blue waters and  a superb view of wonderful gulf that place is very special to discover and enjoy the secular history and natural beauty of a corner of fascinating Maghreb.



Francesco Mari



No comments:

Post a Comment

Thanks a lot to read and note.