Ghirla | Active Tourism around an Italian Fairytale Lake.



Ghirla is a very attractive village and ideal destination to enjoy a very Active Tourism around an Italian Fairytale Lake in the Region Lombardy which in its northwestern side offers that kind of marvels in a stupendous hilly territory at the foothills of the Alps, a scenic land which immediately attracts every visitor for its natural beauty greatly highlighted by picturesque landscapes and scattered appealing hamlets perched on scenic hilly crests part of a frame more than captivating.

Neighbourhood of the municipality of Valganna, that small pleasant centre is located in a wild beautiful valley at 71, 0 kilometres from the superb city of Milan with the relevant International Malpensa Airport just 51, 0 kilometres away and another great attraction in its proximity to the fascinating city Varese situated at only 14,0 kilometres of distance, the very stylish capital of province  highlighted by stunning gardens, villas, medieval monuments, its iconic Sacro Monte Campo dei Fiori heights and its charming Lake with the same name.

Its strategic position close to the Swiss frontier located at less than 10, 0 kilometres with the fantastic opportunity to reach in a while the stunning Lake Lugano with an immediate view of the fascinating town of Ponte Tresa and other corners of the fabulous Canton of Ticino are all together a notable incentive and another shining gem called Lake Como is just 42.0 kilometres away, certainly a marvellous fan of options to admire a geographic area richly packed by numerous artistic and natural beauties.

Ghirla and its immediate surroundings offer the visitors apart all those unique chances the great opportunity to practise many outdoor activities such as cycling, mountain bike, fishing, horse riding, Nordic Ski, trekking and much more.The spectacular local  environment highlighted by verdant forests and stunning peaks encircling a large number of picturesque hamlets and small towns and the presence of a camping are further incentives to invite a large kind of tourists who want to spend holidays and very enjoyable stays in contact with nature, filling days with a large variety of things to do delighted by an environment which trasmits peace and serenity.

That northern Italian area is also pretty recommended for all art and history lovers, families who can have very relaxing times, photographers who will be absolutely surprised by a magnificent nature and architectonic masterpieces, cyclists who will found a paradise for as multitude of superb routes with challenging itineraries and including for all the visitors looking for relaxation in an oasis of tranquillity simply perfect to recharge the battery returning home in great phisycal and mentally conditions.

The history  of Ghirla is very interesting started many centuries ago when a Celtic population, the Insubri, established a settlement in that verdant land. That tribe was mainly devoted to farms, pastures and small trades along paths leading  to the borders of Switzerland living a very peaceful life.They came in contact with other Celts, the Ligurians with who formed a unique group and later with the Etruscans that ancient iconic civilisation well known to have its most important centres in Tuscany but with some colonists who moved to Lombardy much before the occupation of the Roman Empire.

Some centuries later the Romans reached those territories of the current province of Varese and they elevated in the territory a network of camps, the famous Castrum provided by different strategic check points. Originally the first structures served to host the legions occupied and very busy in those famous campaign towards the Gaul corresponding to the current France while others erected later were developed to control the invasions from north by the Alemanni,a pretty belligerent Germanic tribe which often with numerous incursions entered in the domains of that Italic Empire.

During that period including in the boundaries of Ghirla were established also the first communications consisting in former cobbled roads especially directed towards south corresponding to a line currently occupied by the county road Strada Provinciale 233 in direction of Mediolanum the current city of Milan as was called in Latin language during the times of the Imperial Rome and a further route was traced north in direction of Marchirolo ending on the shore of Lake Lugano.

That land was for long time a relevant point of transit for military operations but also for merchants who found very proficuous routes linking their trades along a route which included Swiss territories, Como and its lake, Varese and with a pretty easy access to Piedmont reaching the Lombard shore of the famed and marvellous Lake Maggiore.

After the fall of Rome the Lombards who occupied the entire land used the traced roads by those predecessors in those times called Calzate, they enlarged and prolonged them for several kilometres establishing much more connections with other important centres and in the meantime they fortified a large part of their domains.

The Franks who replaced that previous civilisation also were influential rulers incorporating Ghirla in the Sacred Roman Empire and despite a pretty harsh feudalistic system, they organised a concrete and defined former territorial subdivision marking borders between different areas, operations which served to the successors to start the development of a design of the boundaries of the current municipalities existing nowadays.

That new Medieval organisation was a sort of pioneer activity which generated afterwards the edition of future maps designing a defined conformation of the counties in that Italian corner giving them in more contemporary times an identity and much more marked image.

In the following centuries that peaceful village was part of the Duchy of Milan who inherited the territory by the Carolingian families before to become a stronghold of Como in a period in which those two powers of Lombardy often met themselves in a myriad of disputes with frequent epicentre that geographic point with local governors and landlords linked to the famed families Sforza and Visconti fighting against that eternal rival to have a total domain of those territories which were an open and flourishing commercial gateway to Switzerland.

The Milanese Dukes were able to re-conquer that territory but they were defeated during that famous invasion by the Swiss Confederation troops which occupied different villages in proximity of Ghirla and losing after that event all their domains in the Canton of Ticino.

The battle of Melegnano south of Milan between the Royal French divisions paladins of the Catholicism and the Swiss League defending the Protestant Calvinism with the victory of the first was the prelude of an occupation of France for a brief  period of those territories of Lombardy before to move for another short period under Spanish rule in times corresponding to those famed wars of successions which ended with the entire Region  incorporated by the Hapsburg House in the former Regno Lombardo-Veneto.

That Kingdom depending from the Austrian Empire was that large land including apart  Lombardy, the Tre Venezie composed by the current Veneto, Friuli Venezia Giulia and Trentino Adige which was probably the richest area in the Italic Peninsula in those times.

That historic stage despite several riots with protagonists several fervent local patriots was particularly fruitful for the economy of Ghirla for an organised agricultural system, the establishment of different populated centre’s with new artisans working and very active in trade but always with a strong desire of autonomy and independence rejecting the rule of Vienna..

The local history will continue with the reunification of Italy when the troops of the Savoy House in that time Kings of Piedmont and Sardinia defeating the Austrian troops integrated those places in a new Reign with Capital Turin and as final act the proclamation of the Italian Kingdom in the 19th century.

It was during that century in which the village was inserted in the province of Como, a curious event returning to meet a city after centuries which was a former ruler but all that endured until 1924 when in occasion of a restoration of the regional maps and the development of new provinces, that hamlet was assigned to the administration of Varese.

You can start the visit to admire that local jewel called Lago di Ghirla, Lake Ghirla which is a basin of glacier origin situated at 415,0 metres of altitude formed by the torrent Margorabbia which has its source in the local hills starting its descent at 630,0 metres of altitude.That stream has some small tributaries such as the Boggione,Lisacora, Rancina,Grantorella and Chiesone embracing during its course also the river Tresa and ending in the marvellous Lake Maggiore.

That tiny Italian fairytale lake only covers a very small surface of 0,28 square kilometres but despite its reduced size it shows all its magic appeal for its poetic and inspiring image surrounded by a fabulous natural frame consisting in green forests, pines and gentle picturesque hills.

The level of the waters increased in the late 19th century when in the local area was built a dam collecting the water of all those mentioned streams, operations which also were linked to an establishment of a power plant.

Lake Ghirla is 14.0-15.0 metres deep, the local temperature in summer is warm but ventilated at evening and night, in spring season is approximately 20º -21º with autumns pretty mild until October and cold winters especially in December and January.

The visit of the lake and its surroundings is great during all year. A special highlight of that captivating marvel is the formation of beautiful reflections generated by the sun rays falling on it with lights and reflections absolutely magnificent in every season, the shades of the hills and the sun lights form a great mix of colours particularly loved by photographers and tourism photo reporters with the impressive view of sunsets absolutely magic.

Spring season is particularly suggested for the spectacular tonalities formed by the green of the forests and that unmistakable dark blue of the waters but also autumns is pretty loved for the changes of the colours of the leaves of some trees next to the evergreen pines and the sun rays coming with another intensity. Also in a day when the sun is a bit shy crossing with a timid ray a cloud and illuminating specific corners creating very suggestive images the image of that tiny diamond is highly suggestive.

Winter is also superb when it is surrounded by snow snow and that fabulous small basin is often frozen and that kind of image is extremely fascinating.

Aboout historic Incoming Tourism, the major flows started at the beginning of the 20th century when that lake started to be a destination for people coming from Varese and in a short time also from visitors from Milan searching to escape from the stressful urban life and looking for an enjoyable corner of peace finding in Ghirla thanks to its uncontaminated nature and fantastic landscapes highlighted by cool temperatures in summer a special heaven.

That site became a favourite site to enjoy weekends and days of relaxation discovering day by day all the little paradise  around that little pearl starting an active tourism which was since then a delightful activity with a lot of great surprises for a multitude of tourists..

There was in that period a small train station connecting Varese at the foot of the Sacro Monte that charming mount characterised by its beauty and historic path packed by Chapels listed in the UNESCO sites to that place and in those years was developed a former camping which some years later became a very relevant source offering opportunities of pleasant stays in a fairytale environment.

Due to all that with that invitingI Incoming service many tourists spending holidays there planned beautiful excursions in the local and in the many neighbouring Varesine valleys scattered all around that  province of Northeastern Lombardy also rich of many historic attractions.

The results were more than positive and successful in terms of indexes and peaks of affluence including with the presence of Swiss tourists who for territorial proximity easily reached Ghirla which started to have a very good popularity and furthermore that connection with the station certainly became a more than stunning service increasing the nationall flows becoming a destination very appreciated and despite that railway was later suppressed the village continued to be visited and loved.

That waters basin was also site in contemporary times a site of rowing, kayak competitions and training, activities which were later moved to the new complex arouse on the shore of Lake Varese much bigger and closer to the city. 

Worth a special mention bbout other sports that in the early 20th century in winter season when Lake Ghirla was frozen it  was used in some occasions as ice rink and it boasts a record dating back 1914 was the track for the first Italian Championship of Ice Skating speed while in more recent times some people spend their pleasant times playing amateur Ice Hockey matches.

Fishing with license is another activity,  the visitor fond about that can find some kinds of fish such as Pesce Persico (perch), Luccio (pike),  Alborelle (bleak), and some big trout, all pretty commons species in the Lombard, Piedmont and Swiss lakes which meet their natural habitat considering the temperatures of those fresh waters ideal for their survival and reproduction.

All around that scenic wonder the visitor can have the chance of several relaxing walks along  paths crossing captivating woody areas highlighted by a rich presence of a big variety of mushrooms and chestnuts frequently collected by several people and used to prepare delicious foods, sauces and cakes.

Another brilliant opportunity is that to spend active tourism enjoying Horse riding thanks tothe presence horse stable organising lessons and excursions along beautiful trails in the nearest forest admiring the wild nature of Valganna which in a far comparison could be considered as a  little Italian Far West.

Relaxation, holidays, a camping, a park and a restaurant are a good combinations which make that place a great oasis of peace surrounded by many beautiful things and certainly offering a lot to do for the joy of many visitors.

Ghirla also has historic attractions as its Church, the Chiesa di San Cristoforo dedicated to St.Christopher erected in 1897. Developed on an ample rectangular base it shows a splendid silhouette loyal to the most fine Baroque style in vogue in that period. A wide light facade highlighted by fine lines with marked decorations in its front side are great architectural features, notable in addition in in its upper section a large pediment established beneath a red gable roof.

The Maglio di Ghirla is another local icon consisting in an old trip hammer dated the 18th century used to manufacture iron. In the past it was considered one of the best of the entire Italian Peninsula with a consolidation of a notable reputation for the advanced system and in terms of production and despite nowadays it is not working due to the ceased activity it was restored not a long time ago and preserved as a local patrimony heritage site.

The municipality of Valganna boasts a medieval jewel absolutely outstanding you can not miss, the Badia di San Gemolo. It is an outstanding abbey erected in the 12th century, concretely in 1160. It is an architectural gem of the finest Middle Ages boasting a magnificent Romanesque stoned tower dominating a wonderful pentagonal cloister with a scenic portico and stunning arcades with columns with capitals originally built in the 14th century, modified three centuries later.

That stunning Ecclesiastic complex was enlarged in the 17th century with a reconstruction of the apse and considerable is the magnificent nave flanked by majestic arcades, a splendid decorated floor and an ample altar.

Simply superb is its towering position dominating the entire local agglomeration and the scenery is completed by a stunning set of peaks encircling it among them the charming silhouettes of the Monte Martica and the Monte Piambello.

Another recommended visit is to Induno Olona very close and highlighted by its emblematic Castello di Frascarolo, a superb Medieval castle erected in Lombard times and used in the Middle Ages by the Duchy of Milan as defencive stronghold to protect the local boundaries by the invasion of the Army of Como. 

That centre furthermore despite it is not too big boasts 11 Churches elevated in different historic periods and it is the seat of the famous Brewery Birreria Poretti part of Carlsberg Group hosted in a splendid liberty building.

That valley has further attractions consisting in its stunning karst caves, two are situated in the municipality of Induno famous for their waterfalls and other three in that of Cunardo.

Those beautiful grottoes are formed by the course of the Margorabbia stream which for several kilometres runs under the soil, many photographers in winter reach them to take pictures when the cascades are totally frozen and from far its icing with the reflection generated by the sun rays seem as a shining shaped diamond.

Some decades ago Ghirla started to be visited by a good number of Dutch tourists who found there in summer season a great climatic destination enjoying the beauty of that scenic tiny lake and all the several activities around it. Thanks also to splendid sunny days and ventilated evenings due to those 400, 0 metres of altitude delighted by a fresh breeze coming from the Alps they often return there with extreme pleasure.

They also started to practise cycle tourism thanks to many attractions consisting in medieval churches, abbeys and monasteries, other lakes, scattered small centre’s with a notable historic patrimony, superb landscapes and totally in love also for a delicious local cuisine and kind people, all that in addition accentuated by a very relaxing atmosphere.

In that land, bicycle and cycling are icons, Ghirla is a place in which many champions born close or not far from its boundaries choosing that site for their daily trainings. Some of them are part of the legend of that beloved sport such as Luigi Ganna, Alfredo Binda, Michele Mara, Wladimiro Panizza, Silvano Contini, Claudio Chiappucci, Stefano Garzelli and Ivan Basso among others.

The Classic Race Tre Valli Varesine which runs in the boundaries of Valganna and Ghirla saw in different of its editions prestigious winners such as Coppi, Bartali, Merckx, Moser, Saronni and Bugno among others.It is very challenging competition with slopes of high gradient and obviously all that has created a sort of myth with several people reaching those places to see the roads protagonists of the exploits of those unforgettable figures and in the meantime visiting that site and its immediate surroundings.

Cycling is a Mecca in that territory with great climbs with apart the the mentioned famous Sacromonte and Campo dei Fiori other simply superb. One of them I suggest you is the Brinzio another iconic destination for cyclists and cycle tourists with a spectacular ascent in a charming valley called Val di Rasa. That site is simply spectacular boasting a striking natural environment, historic marvels and also with a space to practice Nordic Ski in winter in an area with peaks of over 1000.0 metres of altitude.

In addition you can admire there in its charming historic centre highlighted by splendid old courtyards perfectly preserved. Other attractions are a small scenic lake and the Pessegh waterfalls with a stunning drop of 27.0 metres.

Those places are very recommended for mountain bikers who can enjoy many dirt and mixed trails of extreme beauty also towards the municipality of Cunardo which also has a track of Ski Cross Country of about 5.0 kilometres, you will be enchanted by extraordinary views with scenic heights  and high green plateaus flanked by picturesque rocky spurs of extreme charm encircling that small centre also very appreciated by many trekkers.

A further place place regarding all that and highly suggested is the spectacular Alpe Tedesco situated at 785.0 metres of altitude,a climb so loved by locals and foreign tourists, an ascent approximately 4.5 kilometres starting from the nearest Ganna.

The slopes have a media around 7-,8% with some points reaching 12%,during the climb, the road has some holes and five beautiful bends. It is certainly a great training for grimpeurs,mountain bikers with strong legs and a great test using different kinds of gears. There are a couple of points extremely stunning in which the slopes increase with walls very challenging and beloved by a multitude of cyclists.

The little centre of Marzio is a place on the top of that high plateau and it is particularly loved by many mountain bikers for the superb mixed routes present in its boundaries in a territory highlighted by long steep stretches and beautiful bends with a stupendous network boasting superb dirt trails crossing picturesque hilly forests and descending from them on paved roads with the opportunity to change surfaces in a while.

That small municipality only has a bit more of 300 inhabitants but it offers stunning panoramic views between two very scenic valleys, the Valganna and Valceresio and it is furthermore famous because along its boundaries was established the famed Linea Cadorna,the Italian army defencive system used during the two World Wars and once there you can see the rests of all that, which is in its kind a piece of history of Italy..

Filling your day or in another during your stay you can also continue from there along the County Road Strada Provinciale SP 29 crossing the Parco Locale Comunale di Interesse Sovraccomunale delle Cinque Vette along a panoramic road crossing that splendid nature park.That is a protected nature area with different species of trees and a good presence of flora and fauna especially birds.

That mentioned road leads to the municipality of Cuasso Al Monte  and all around that town you will find other climbs cycling between stunning woods transiting across quaint villages and over you rocky spurs and wild cliffs mixed with green woods along their slopes.

Notable are also for their captivating image the nearest Valcuvia and Valtravaglia, two valleys of immense charm in which every cyclist will find a multitude of marvellous routes with many undulated roads flanked by secular pine and oak forests with villages perched on picturesque hilly cliffs.(If you are interested I wrote a post regarding Arcumeggia the village of the frescoes, a great destination in that area).

Other places very interesting you can visit are around Marchirolo which is at just 7,0 kilometre from Ghirla following the indications Ponte Tresa-Switzerland. As in Marzio you can see there part of that famous Linea Cadorna and in its small but fascinating historic centre you can stop to admire the Chiesa di San Martino, the local Parish Church dedicated to St.Martin erected in the 12th century.

That municipality is also well known for its patisseries and confectioneries with a long tradition offering superb delights such as Goccia D´ Oro and Bacilieri, the second one awarded with the title Eat Our Awards in 2011. In those two pastry houses you can taste delicious chocolate muffins, fragrant brioches and croissants, tastefully cream bomboloni, apricot and strawberry cakes accompanied by a warm and delectable cappuccino.

The Val Marchirolo is a striking valley also for the unforgettable views of the Alps and immediately off its boundaries towards Cadegliano Viconago another Eden for  the most enthusiastic mountain bikers.

Switzerland is very close from there, the frontier is just 9, 0 km away, a great chance to reach in a very short time the lovely and charming town of Ponte Tresa with its stunning waterfront on Lake Lugano, a stupendous place enjoying the beauty of another waters basin simply stunning and you can continue until the nearest Caslano, famous for its fine chocolate.(In the case you are interested I wrote a post regarding it)

Also those places are also very suggested because they offer a multitude of routes with different coefficients of difficulty but also for all tourists who want to immortalise a collection of magnificent pictures admiring little centres on sharp hills with medieval small Churches, beautiful landscapes and much more a very relaxing atmosphere with obviously that great chance to move from one valley to another in a very short time changing scenery with views of different and varied landscapes..

Local cuisine is another special highlight which will delight you. The traditional gastronomy despite a strong and marked identity has many affinities with the Milanese and that of Como for proximity, cultural and historic aspects.

The famed Polenta is one of the traditional plates prepared with cheeses, fresh butter or with the famed Luganighe, typical local pork sausages pretty common in Northern Italy and in the Swiss Canton of Ticino while another style is adding to it a kind of ragu generally made by beef meat, tomato sauce and spices.

The Risotto is undoubtedly another delight with a secular tradition extremely rooted prepared with delicious porcini mushrooms or salsicce, small pork sausages and a gravy sauce, or in other styles such as with asparagus, melted cheeses, butter and flavoured by white wine.

The Minestrone is another famous main course, a rice soup with vegetables while the Minestra di Spinaci is a variant made by  rice,spinach adding potatoes, carrots, onion, grated cheese and pepper.

The iconic Brasato is a further delectable dish consisting in large slices of beef, it can be preapred in sauce or adding vegetables such as carrots, celery, thyme, laurel, garlic, onion and pepper with a notable touch of red wine as a great Barolo and it is another tastefully specialty of superb reputation.

The Spezzatino di Manzo or Vitello is also highly recommended, a plate very appreciated consisting in a rich stew containing beef or veal meat squares flavoured by the addition of tomato sauce, garlic, onion, rosemary, pepper and salt.

Worth a mention another typical speciality called Bruscitt. It consists in minced beef adding with cloves, fennel, onion and seeds. All that is cooked very slow adding meat stock, black pepper, salt and a bit of red wine. That plate is often combined with the mentioned Polenta or Puré di Patate, mashed potatoes containing fresh and soft local butter.

Of Milanese heritage is the popular Cassoeula, a winter plate made by pork ribs, sage, onion, a large quantity of cabbage, adding pepper, salt and butter or try the traditional Polpette di Carne, meatballs containing eggs, Parmesan cheese, bacon, grated bread, garlic, onion,sage,minced salami,salt, pepper and a good quantity of white wine as a good Riesling.

Also fish is present in particular trout and lake fish such as Pesce Persico and Alborelle prepared in many styles such as boiled,baked,fried or also in carpione.The latter is a delightful special process in which the fish is before marinated then fried and finally seasoned with extra virgin olive oi and aromatic herbs.

The area is very rich of mushrooms and not only the mentioned Porcini but also the delectable Chiodini, Finferli and Ovoli among others. Famous is a recipe called Funghi Trifolati, a sort of casserole containing them with a sauce having as basic ingredients tomato, garlic, onion, herbs, parsley, pepper, salt and a touch of smooth wine.

They are also added in homemade sauces for pasta and gnocchi or including Sott´Olio, pickled in olive oil and served in starters or appetisers.A further speciality containing them is the famed Cappone ai Funghi, capon cooked with mushrooms, laurel, olive oil, black pepper and juniper.

The local forests is rich of chestnuts used to prepare jams, cakes and in particular in the last decades with the advent of the notorious Nouvelle Cuisine with its new trends and eclectic recipes, that kind of ingredient is often present in special sauces and varied sophisticated condiments.It is also entered in the list and preferences of the most celebrated Haute Cuisine with many prestigious Chefs which day by day always have more and more proposals and talented creativity in an ample and universal culinary panorama.

I added some links below if you have some ideas to visit that Italian area and I included some suggested accommodations pretty close to Ghirla and that with reference to the local camping...

It is very easy to reach that small paradise. From Milan, taking the Motorway A8 in direction Varese, you have to take the exit indicating that city. Once you are there it is enough to take the SS233, National Road following the indications Valganna. If you are in the Capital of Lombardy you will take approximately one hour driving and 30/35 minutes from Malpensa Airport.

If you are planning your holidays, trips, stays in Italy especially in that territory, Ghirla and its tiny fairytale lake apart to offer a very active tourism perfect for tireless tourists who want to discover and visit more and more historic places and natural marvels and others who love sport having days filled of physical activities, it is a great option for that vast panorama it offers but also appropriate for visitors who desire in the meantime to enjoy an oasis of serenity finding there a sublime heaven.

If you are a lover of a complete tourism, that area is full of attractions with many thing to do,that Italian land will delight you and your days during a very enjoyable stay.


Francesco Mari

Recommended accommodations not far from Ghirla 

Hotel Al Borducan
Hotel Villa Porro Pirelli 
Camping Villaggio Turistico Trelago (at Ghirla)


Useful links

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