From Milan to San Vittore Olona in the Altomilanese cycling along the Simplon Road between Art and History Discovering the Ancient Windmills of Parco dei Mulini.

Cycling from Milan, the great capital city of the Lombardy Region along the Sempione,the Simplon.the famous National Road 33 which connects the metropolis of Milan to Iselle in Piedmont next to the Swiss border and then continue on Swiss territory until Brig with the in the Alps with the Simplon Pass.

This long road,for many kilometres is like a tangential to the European Highway E62 through,small valleys,hills part of the Ticino river Valley,the Lake Maggiore and the Piedmont.The Simplon Road is a just like a journey inside the history of two Italian Regions Lombardy and Piedmont and Switzerland,a long history,with ancient different settlements that have populated this area as Insubri,Etruscans and Romans.The Simplon Road was built on the orders of Napoleon Bonaporte who wanted to join Milan to Paris, an inspiration of the French Leader to the model of the ancient Imperial Roman Consular Roads.

From Milan,at Parco Sempione,the Simplon Park behind the Sforza Castle, one of the lungs verses of the city beside the majestic Arch of the Peace,you can begin many cycling itineraries,one of them is the Milano-Parco Dei Mulini,(the Park of the Mills) until San Vittore Olona,25 km very easy,on a pretty flat territory, but very interesting from a historical point of view and cultural, in particular for churches and monuments of medieval age of great importance and for the Parco dei Mulini an area that comprises the municipalities of Legnano, San Vittore Olona, Canegrate, Parabiago and Nerviano.The Parco dei Mulini is so called for its historical mills of this area,also called Altomilanese,(Northern Milan) which is an are included between the southern Valley of the Ticino river, the Olona Valley,bordering the Olona River and the Southern territory of the province of Varese,not far from the beginning of Brianza,the area of Monza.

You can start your route from Piazza Sempione,the square also famous for being one of the places symbols of the Giro d'Italia the great cycling race organised by the famous newspaper La Gazzetta dello Sport,ehich ends each year in the city Milan. From Piazza Sempione a long Avenue,similar the Parisian Champs Elysee continues crossings Piazza Firenze, a square that is the point of intersection between the last stretch of the Simplon Road with Viale Certosatakes about 3,0 kilometres cycling in the centre of the city.

From Viale Certosa continues to Via Gallarate, a long avenue which connects the city centre to the Northern suburbs of Milan, to give you an idea it is the road leading you to the entrance of the Autostrada,the Motorway Milano Laghi-Como -Chiasso and to the Rho-Milano Fiera the modern Fairground complex of the Lombard city and also in the direction to the Giuseppe Meazza Stadium and the Palasharp on the other side of the urban bridge connected the city to the Highway.

At the end of Via Gallarate which is nothing else an urban extension inner of Corso Sempione, as well as Viale Certosa takes the road continues with the name name Corso Sempione and take the direction Pero-Rho,there are a couple of curves and you are crossing and industrial  complex of two industrial towns,Rho and Pero.

Rho is an ancient city of Roman origin also famous for its beautiful Shrine,the Santuario dell´Addolorata,Our Lady of Sorrows,a famous religious temple that in its construction was begun by San Carlo Borromeo and further more it is the seat of one of the Marian pilgrimages more famous in the North of Italy.This sanctuary contains relevant and beautiful works by the Master Morazzone,a talented painter from the area of Varese,who moved to Rome to work for the Pope State, considered to be one of the painters pioneers of the Reformation, that literary and artistic movement so famous in opposition to the degradation of the Papal State.

Inside you can also admire very valuable works by Della Rovere brothers,a family of excellent artists very active in the area of Milan, Monza, but also in Piedmont, Valcamonica a valley near the provinces of Bergamo and Brescia and in the Swiss Canton Ticino.They were known and nicknamed as "Fiammenghini" probably for their inspiration to the Belgian-Flemish painting who had also in Italy many followers.You can also note the beautiful facade of Leopoldo Pollack am Italian-Austrian architect of the 18th century a pupil of the great Master from Umbria Piermarini who built the Teatro alla Scala of Milan.I recommend a stop and a visit,because you are in front of treasure of art.

Continuing on Corso Sempione after this brief historical parenthesis you cross the town of Lainate an ancient Celt and Roman town famous for its magnificent Villa Visconti Borromeo Arese Litta a masterpiece of 16th century that possesses a wonderful Nymphaeum and fountains of great artistic value. I suggest a stop if you want to admire this masterpiece.

Continuing on the Road,totally flat you will reach a small town of about 8.000 inhabitants called Pogliano Milanese which was an important Roman Castrum to defend the area from the invasions of Teutons and Cimbris populations coming from Germany, and then continues in the direction Nerviano,the road is in excellent state,with a couple of gently up and down and ideal to pull long gears.

In about ten minutes you will reach the town of Nerviano,famous to be bathed by three rivers,the Olona,the small Bozzente and the Canale Villoresi.This town was in the Middle Ages a stronghold of the Milanese and headquarter to organise the famous battles against Frederick Barbarossa,for its strategical position not far from the city of Milan,from the low Ticino Valleyand Brianza.Here you can admire a beautiful example of medieval architecture of Tuscan school the Monastery of Ulivetani beside the river Olona.Further more I suggest to take a look to the Santuario della Colorina dated 17th century,the patroness of engaged couples and the beautiful Church of Santo Stefano dedicated to the Holy Martyr, a beautiful example of Neoclassical style but originally built in the Romanesque style.

Leaving Nerviano and following cycling on Corso Sempione at the border with Parabiago you will find a Mill,the Mulino Starquá.Probably built in 17th century and then restored several times,this mill was used to grind wheat into flour that was then introduced directly on Milan markets,the name "Starquá" derives from "star qua"meaning  staying here.Why this name ?  During the period of Austrian domination during the Kingdom of Lombardy-Venetia , some of the soldiers of the Austrian General Radetsky went over to the mill with the intention of take off the people lived and worked there but millers answered : Noi vogliamo star quá, we want to stay here.It was the 1853 and on the inside of the mill there is a plaque which reminds that sentence as a sign of resistance to foreign domain of these lands in 19th century.Today the mill is managed by the farm company Molaschi, famous for the trade and sale of flour and rice of the area of Vercelli in Piedmont.

In Parabiago then there are other mills,one of them is the Molino Moroni dated 16th century.This mill was built in the period of the Olivetan Monks who settled in the nearby NervianoDuring this period thanks to the wotks of the monks and excellent millers,it was very active with a very high production,but the business was closed by Napoleon Bonaparte,who used his strategy to stop every kind of production activity to control the area in a easy way.Later the mill was property of some foreign families lived in the countryside and also
property of distinguished Milaneses families Milanesi.After several owners,the mill was managed by Giovanni Moroni,for that the name but all the activity production ceased in 1935.

Today the mill maintains an excellent aspect in perfect harmony with the scenery of the countryside of the Altomilanese.Another mill is theThe Mill Gajo-Lampugnani and it takes its name from an old Mayor called Felice Gajo and by a governor during the fascist period in  the years of the second world war Raffaele Lampugnani.The mills is inactive,anyway it maintains in every case a good appearance after some restorations,the new look,is in full harmony with the local landscapes.

Another one is the Mulino Del Miglio also of the 16th century,taking the name of the old owner Mr.Del Miglio.In the course of its history the mill has changed substantially its appearance,after some restorations the mill is not working sincelong time ago and it is currently property of the Rancilio family linked to the famous industry of coffee machines.

The city of Parabiago is one of the most famous centres of industry of the shoes and for the historic Battle of Parabiago where the Visconti the Lords of Milan fought against Lodriso an uncle of them pretender to the rule of the city Milan and supported by the Scaligeri the Scala family from Verona.Parabiago was a very active commercial centre during the Roman era, also of interest the many elegant aristocratic villas and numerous churches of different date from medieval times until the modern period,worth a mention the Church of San Gervasio e Protasio The Church of Sant'Ambrogio, the Sanctuary of the Madonna di Dio a splendid work by the famous Master Donato Bramante.

Apart art and history Parabiago is also is famous in the world to be the birthplace of the  brand Rancilio,Coffee Machines with a great fame all around the world, with branches in Hong Kong, Chicago and Barcelona and also for Termozeta famous another prestigious brand of household appliances.You are cycling in a town of great cycling traditions too.Parabiago is the town of Giuseppe Saronni 1982 World Champion at Godwood in England and winner of two Giro d´Italia and numerous classic races.Although Saronni was born in Novara,he grew up in Parabiago.From this town  is also the first World Champion on road cycling,Libero Ferrario who won the first edition of the Cycling World Championship in 1923 in Zurich-Switzerland.In addition and always about cycling this city has hosted in the year 2007, the first World Championship of Hand bike,receiving commendations and praise for the wonderful management in the organisation of this international sporting event and the town has an excellent amateur cycling club.

After only 2,5 km of road totally flat you will be in San Vittore Olona, this small town ofAltomilanese,famous some decades ago to be an important textile centre,very close to Legnano preserves some of the most ancient mills that are part of the artistic heritage of this area. San Vittore Olona is also famous for athletic cross country competition called Cinque Mulini the "five Mills" a classic race,which celebrated its first edition in 1933,The name is in honour to these historical structures that were very substantial part also in the economic and productive industry.The race takes in a spectacular area running next to the five old mills.The names of 5 mills are Montoli are, wonder, Cozzi, Cornaggia and De Toffol.

Today only two are active.The Mulino Montoli,dated 15th century, although almost entirely renovated and has a very good state,the blades and agricultural spaces for the collection of products in the building are totally original. The other Mill in activity, still in working order even if it is only activated for sporadic tourist purposes and image of the Cinque Mulini race, to retransmit a little the story of these place and to show the dynamic operation of the mill.

The Parco dei Mulini the Park of the Mills also includes the neighbouring municipalities of Legnano, Canegrate.These old structures unfortunately ceased the activity with the advent of electricity,as well as the construction of factories in particular in Legnano,which used generators,boilers and modern machinery,all that reduced this ancient activity of these mills, more than reduced practically disappeared,note on the river Olona in the past, the active mills were 118 and if you think this river is only 71 km.

But despite this,the presence of them still existing makes these attractive locations from the point of view historic.A ride from Milan in this area called Atomilanese is very interesting discovering,art, history, beautiful monuments including these unforgettable Mills.

Francesco Mari


www.sanvittoreolona.org
 www.provincia.milano.it