Sunday 25 November 2012

Giardini Naxos-Sicily | Warm Sunbeams on a Luminous Ionian Coast.


Giardini Naxos is a magnificent resort in Sicily eternally characterised by unmistakable warm sunbeams a predominant highlight on a luminous Ionian coast existing to transmit every visitor inspirations and delightful sensations in a place where every corner is as a high hymn to the beauty of the Mediterranean in all its splendour and pure true essence.

Situated in a pretty wide bay of the province of Messina along the striking eastern Sicilian coastline Immediately when you are visiting that centre it is enough to take a look  from its Lungomare, the enchanting maritime promenade called Lungomare Schisò admiring the magic and inspiring silhouette of Capo Schisò, a picturesque promontory created as a sublime natural guard overlooking the entire municipality to understand that you are in a wonderful place and all the colours and reflections which will surround you are as a magic rainbow to remember forever.

Considered for historic events and proximity as a sort of "little sister"of the famed Taormina ( I wrote as post about that stunning place if you are interested) so famous worldwide for its beautiful landscapes, Greek-Roman culture and history, one of the favourite destinations of that beautiful Southern Italian island, that seaside resort despite the great popularity of that nearest acclaimed and venerated twin  and it was and is always able to  show its captivating appeal with pride conquering everyone in a while.

With its about 10,000 inhabitants for history and past, Giardini Naxos is not second to that celebrated Mediterranean Queen  and historically it was for importance the second Greek Colony founded by the Hellenic settlers former inhabitants of the famous Chalkis in 734 BC during the times of Megale Hellas iconic cradle of an extraordinary culture, outstanding art and a prosperous life in the south of the Italic Peninsula.

That ancient population left the motherland and its island Euboea led by Teocles who once landed in Sicily decided to elevate on the local coastal stretch of the current town an altar in honour of the God Apollo Archegetes. Later those colonists were reached by other compatriots coming from the island of Naxos who developed their first settlement with the same name of their former birthplace ; Naxos from which derives the current denomination of that Sicilian jewel.

That centre was since its foundation a relevant site of the Great Greece or Magna Graecia , a site settled by very active people, determined thanks to their talented artistic skills and with an accentuated attitude to expand their cultural marks with new flourishing  settlements which made the history of a land admired and regarded all around the Mediterranean basin.

 Founded other important cities such as as Neapolis the current Naples (I wrote a post about that marvellous city if you are interested) ,Rhegium the current Reggio Calabria and Zancle,the latter later called Messines corresponding to the current city of Messina, all those centres played important roles during the long period of the Hellenic colonisation in those Italic lands including in the smallest current municipalities.

There is always a historic diatribe and dispute about which is the oldest Sicilian site founded by that civilisation and all  that has always created controversial opinions. Giardini Naxos in that region is only behind Messina but it was developed before very famous centres such as Siracusa,Catania and the previously mentioned Taormina which was historically born by an event due to the Peloponnese frictions when the former Naxos was already very well known including in the Greek capital Athens.

That historic debate  is often protagonist of an endless controversy and also for many eminent historians the answer is not easy to retrace the exact events which determined the establishment of an official settlement. If you consider as inhabited site certainly Giardini Naxos was the first while as town having a marked politic system and an active  social organisation will be Messina boasting that title.

Those strong links with the Hellenic civilisation extremely rooted in a culture which never died continues nowadays and the municipality is twinned with  Chalkis, the place from which the former colonists landed on the other side of the Ionian Sea establishing one of their strongholds in Eastern Sicily.

A very famous event which linked Giardini Naxos to the iconic and legendary Greek world was celebrated not a long time ago, exactly in 1960 in occasion of the Olympic Games celebrated in Rome and in occasion of that famed sporting event In the municipal boundaries  was erected  a Neoclassic Temple to honour the Olympic torch which from the capital Athens seat of the 1896 Summer Olympics  also known as Games of the I Olympiad reached Rome with protagonist as relevant stage the Sicilian resort.

That decision was taken due to that very important historic relationship with the ancient motherland honouring and remembering an indelible past still visible in many aspects such as emblematic  rests, diamonds of architecture, local traditions and roots identified in folklore, costumes and handicraft.

The proximity to two important cities as Messina and Catania with Giardini Naxos exactly situated halfway from those considerable centres  gave it in the past a relevant importance when it was established in its boundaries as a sort of obliged transit for all the populations of Megale Hellas who wanted to reach the extreme northern or southern points of the Oriental Sicilian coastline and due to that several rulers, artists, traders and rulers always stopped there. 

The chronological  history of Giardini Naxos is rich of great events and important periods and it is name derives as previously mentioned by that ancient Greek island in the middle of the Aegean sea, Naxos while Giardini was adopted for the presence of several Citrus gardens and the word Giardini translated means gardens.

In its early ages the current resort became after to be a small settlement became a centre with an active politic life and residence of several Hellenic ambassadors who visited the island. That site was often selected as an Eden for a pleasant stay and in the meantime used as base for important strategic plans of colonisation and as stage of relevant trade operations along the Ionian Coast.

Since then Giardini Naxos was elevated as a sort of favourite ancient seaside resort  for those important figures who after the visit of Catania and Messina often spent enjoyable breaks and soujourns in that site. The fame of that place was always linked to those two powerful centres which had a strong development and thanks to that the current resort had a notable growth and also increased its popularitiy about the military aspect playing a very important role for the destiny of that land.

All that was highlighted during the famous Peloponnesian war endured 27 years concretely from 431 to 404 BC which saw the Delos League led by Athens and its Empire against that of Peloponnese with leader the emblematic Sparta, a clash subvided in three phases with a truce in 421 BC.

That long frontal match between those two powers where characterised by several naval attacks by the Greek capital along the Peloponnese coast while that legendary rival was protagonist of numerous invasions in Attica to undermine the strong influence of that hated opponent. 

According to historic documentations apart those military operations was a conflict based on alliances as a chess match with strategies, plots and many alliances for convenience linked to goals and targets to enlarge the domains of both sides keeping the leadership but also for the desire of exapansion of the Hellenic colonists in all the Mediterranean basin who had consolidated their reputation increasing their prestige with centres in many cases more advanced that those in the motherland.

Those events were highlighted by a challenge towards Athens focused to have a new relevant dimension, with the development and design of maps and re-establishment of borders to rule different lands with totally autonomy and in some cases linked to a spirit of total separation.
 
When in the ancient Magna Graecia started tumultuous times characterised by several revolts and riots of the Hellenic settlers established  on the coasts of Apulia, Calabria, Campania and Sicily the Greek capital organised a massive expedition to punish that emblematic  rebel called Siracusa, a powerful city in that time which due to its constant progress and increasement challenged the influence of the motherland and notorious were the  hard clashes against the major centre of Attica claiming independence and freedom.


Giardini Naxos was always a loyal  allied of Athens and due to that was totally destroyed by Siracusa led in that period by the cruel and famous tyrant Dionisios who entirely  devastated that centre .It was that event which caused the exodus of a multitude of people escaping to find refuge on the nearest heights abandoning the Ionian coast corresponding to  the time of the birth of the iconic Taormina, born by the settlement of the population of the former Naxos who called in those times their new haven Tauromenion.

That massive movement of people made that the former town ceased to exist and it was simply used as a little dock and fishing port. The entire territory was donated to a local autochtone population the Siculi who settled there despite Taormina became the main centre linked to politic,social life, artistic movements and commercial issues.

Also under Roman rule Giardini Naxos was mainly used as a secondary harbour for small local trades mainly concentrated in the transport of fish,spices and animals.

The former village was mainly inhabited by some Roman soldiers and their families and in that time was established a small headquarter on the Consular Road linking the Northeastern Sicily to Siracusa which despite the mentioned past has always been included in the major traffics also after the golden ages of the Magna Graecia and eternally considered a relevant site in which the Romans learnt art and architecture by all what the Greek colonists left in that city.

 During the period of the Roman Empire of Orient with the current Istanbul as Capital called in those times Byzantium and Constantinople, that centre had a notable renaissance with many improvements under Byzantine rule and it was connected by a new road to Taormina. It was since then that it started to be populated by Patrician families who chose that place as a favourite resort enjoying the favourable mild climate all year highlighted by warm sunbeams on a luninous Ionian coast.

After there fall of Byzantine Empire the local development had  a splendid period under Moorish rule who conquered the land in the 9th century and its harbour was enlarged while around the inhabited centre was organised an important network of irrigation favouring the development of an increasing activity as agriculture. Thanks to that was created a plan for the cultivation of citrus with the same system introduced and developed one century before  in Andalusia.
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The Arab civilisation also revalued all the area of the Alcantara, a very fertile and productive valley giving the current seaside resort and all its surroundings an important agricultural prestige.The name of that valley "Alcantara" is clearly of Moorish origin and that beautiful territory which currently includes several municipalities took that denomination from a river on which those rulers established a bridge and that name means bridge deriving from the Arab word Al Quantarah.

The local history continued as the rest of Southern Italy with the landing of the Normans who after defeating the Moors established in that Italian island one of their iconic strongholds despite during their period of occupation developed a very rigid feudalistic system changing the destiny of different activities.

During that time the agriculture continued to be very active but a bit obscured by a very important artistic renaissance with the desire to link the North European style to the classical Moorish architectural canons creating something of fabulous you can nowadays admire in Sicily and furthermore they established along the coast an impenetrable network of check points and fortified defencive walled sections. 

 The occupation later by the French Angevins marked a new era pretty different than the previous. Those rulers never found feeling with the locals due to the election of cruel landlords who governed the land often with unsuccessful results. They partially continued the work of the predecessors reinforcing the former fortresses already and they were mainly devoted to trade with the motherland marginalising Giardini Naxos simply as a simple strategic domain to defend and able to produce citrons of high quality.


The Spanish Bourbons replaced that House and thanks to the support of the local population at the beginning who accepted the new governors with enthusiasm but after a period they started to concentrate all their interests and power in Naples which was elevated as the Capital of the Reign of the two Sicilies causing some riots due to that choice. Despite that during that time were improved the fortifications left by the the Dukes of Anjou along the coastline of the entire island and there was a re-organisation of the agricultural system.


During those periods with different Sovereigns there was the construction of some watchtowers among them one of the most important is considered the Torre Vignazza which thanks to its strategic position permitted to have an ample view until the Calabrian coast and furthermore was also erected a small fortress and in 1847 it left Taormina becoming an indipendent site.

Giardini Naxos is also pretty famous because was choosen as point of departure during the period of the Italian Reunification when the notorious leader Giuseppe Garibaldi linked to the Savoy Family Kings of Piedmont and Sardinia and its Garibaldini, the troops led by that famous character born in Nice ended the conquest of  Sicily.

That famous figure  used the town in 1860 for a period as headquarter to re-organise his divisions ready to launch the attack against the Bourbons with the consequent land on the nearest  Calabrian coat crossing the strait of Messina reaching Reggio Calabria and Villa San Giovanni two other fundamental stages during the conquest of the Italic mainland.

The local history will continue after that event as part of the New Kingdom of Italy proclaimed in 1861 and during the times of the Reign of the Savoy House with former capital Turin there was a new design of the maps becoming some years later a municipality of the province of Messina. 

Today the main resource of the resort is mainly related to the Tourism Industry which in the course of the last decades transformed the town in a relevant and very distinguished destination with relevant peaks of incoming flows since the 70's elevating Giardini Naxos as a place highly considered abroad, particularly loved by North European tourists for its about 300/305 days of sunshine a year and base for the organisation of different kinds of events boasting a notable calendar with many cultural appointments.

Another activity which continues in minor part developed in the previous centuries is the cultivation of citrus especially closely linked to the production of oranges and lemons while other sectors are mainly devoted to ceramic and local handcrafts  but less active than before.

Fishing still occupies a relevant position despite with an inferior volume than in the past but  some local families continue the the old tradition of Spadare and Tonnare the swordfish and tuna fishing, traditional and rooted operations of catch can provide daily fresh fish to several Sicilian markets.

Officially the elevation of Giardini Naxos as official municipality took place in 1867 exactly 20 years later of the separation with Taormina but  since then it never had a concrete marked administration and despite that both have always conserved very strong cultural links and a very kind relationship.

All that is also confirmed in recent times in the Tourism and Hospitality Industry when was created a solid partnership among the local operators to offer a more than complete bipolar network of services, accommodations and facilities those two resorts boast  frequently sharing many common operations of promotion in national and international Fairs.

The centre of the municipality lies behind its long beach with four main avenues marking its core. Via Umberto and Via Regina Margherita connect the municipal heart to the northern exit of the resort in direction Taormina while Via Vittorio Emanuele is the main artery running towards south in an area in which are situated the major part of the Hotels.

That relevant municipal axis meets further south Via Consolare Valeria in correspondence of the National Road SS 114 leading to Catania while in proximity of Via Nazionale turning on the left you can reach in a very easy way the harbour and Capo Schisò, that panoramic headland scenic symbol of a coastal stretch absolutely superb.

Despite Giardini Naxos is mainly known as seaside town and its beaches it also boasts very interesting and relevant historic monuments.You can start the visit from its most important Religious Temple the Chiesa di Santa Maria Raccomandata, a Church dedicated to the Virgin Mary Patroness of the town.

Erected in the 18th century the building consists in a a Baroque construction with a light facade and an arched portal surmounted by an oculus.The interior is arranged on a nave with spledid sinuous vaults and it contains some beautiful statues of Neapolitan school. Worth a special mention that the Sacred construction is particularly important according to local old religious traditions for the sailors devotion who visit and pray in that site before to start their long trips in the sea.

Next to the Touristic harbour located in the area of Capo Schisò  you can visit the Archeological Museum one of the main highlights of the town for its immense value  reachable in a pleasant walk crossing a very pleasant area until the wall of Recananti district.

The Museum was established using as base the rest of a small Spanish fort located in a garden surrounded by stoned  walls and that former defencive structure still conserves a tower hosting a exhibition displaying rests of old submarines. 

Furthermore that great site offers the visitor the chance to admire some objects from the Bronze and Iron age and also relevant artifacts of the  Greek period with magnificent historic founds related to the Hellenic colonies of Chalkis and Naxos.

One of the jewels of the museum is certainly the iconic Arula of Heidelberg displayed  since 1997 and previously hosted in the Heidelberg University Museum in that  beautiful southern German city with the same name. That important historic ancient piece was bought by a German archaeologist called Friedrich Von Duhn at the beginning of the 20th century and once analysed that artifact was a superb local patrimony it was re-bought and transported to Giardini Naxos visible today in that considerable Museum.

Other important objects displayed in its spaces are a magnifcent collection of  cups of Thapsos originally from an area close to Siracusa and some relevant ceramic items made by Naxos school. Other very interesting pieces are the first silver and gold coins used in Sicily and in the nearest Calabria and in addition some you will have the chance to admire very interesting items dating back the Roman and Byzantine Empires.

Close to the Archaeological Museum you can see Castello di Schisò one of the local medieval rests of a fortress former residence of a noble family called De Spuches,probably of Catalan origin,who originally lived in Palermo. The descendants had properties in the nearest Taormina where they owned the famous Palazzo di Santo Stefano but they often used that manor as a stronghold of the family during their stays in the municipality.

The former construction facing the Ionian Sea was erected on a rectangular plan and in a virtualk reconstruction of the defencive system established in the boundaries it was with the walls of the previously mentioned Torre Vignazza the core of the military architectural network established in the town. Arranged on two floors with undergrounds it has a series of symmetric windows on its main high facade and despite it is a bit deteriorated some years ago for its relevant value was awarded as Historic Patrimony of Sicily.

Along Lungomare Schisò you can enjoy the the splendid maritime promenade flanking the magnificent beach and do not miss a visit to the Archaeological Park, another relevant historic local jewel. All the area situated in proximity of the local bay contains several rests dating back the 7th century BC and that is certainly a great attraction ig you are a lover of history and art.

That archaeological space is undoubtedly one of the most considerable sites of the ancient Hellenic civilisation in Eastern Sicily and in that place you can admire many walls of  buildings erected in different historic periods.

You will easily notice all that from the different materials and styles used by the settlers for their construction, some were built by colonists coming from Chalkis and  Eastern Greece while others were erected by the former inhabitants of Naxos. You can admire  others developed using large lava blocks probably dated the 8th or 7th century B.C and in addition as further highlights some remains of Sacred structures erected in different ages during the Greek and Roman times.

Continuing along the maritime promenade you can see a a statue called L´Uomo ed il Mare,the man and the sea.That bronze sculpture was made in 1998 in honour of the sailors,those men who among many difficulties and courage face the strength and the daily hard life in the sea.Giardini Naxos wanted with that artistic work to pay a tribute to all them who with their hard job are part of the history of the town and of all that Sicilian coast.

That stupendous coastal hallway is the liveliest area of the seaside resort highlighted by the presence of different kinds of shops, restaurants, bars, clubs and well known for its avibrant nightlife. All the main attractions are pretty close to the beautiful beach and the more than lively summer nights in Giardini Naxos are very well known all around Sicily.

In Lungomare Schisò you can also see the Nike di Chalkis, an iron sculpture made by the Master Carmelo Mendola. It was placed in 1966 in a very small square of lava rock in an extreme point of the promenade after the twinning between the Sicilian town and Chalkis celebrated one year before.

That work was established there not just for a simple sign of friendship but to pay homage to that Greek centre, place from which came  the first Hellenic settlers landed many centuries ago and for that it is very significant because the locals never forgot the roots and the links with another community which despite living on the other side of the Mediterranean and in anoother country represents something indelible with a common history nobody can delete or change.

If you look carefully that statue you will notice a very interesting detail consisting in a strong resemblence to the famous and notorious Nike of Samothrace,  that famed masterpiece  in marble made by Pitocrito in honor of the Goddess Nike you can admire nowadays in the prestigious Louvre Museum of Paris.

The strong links with Greece and that unforgettable historic past is today present in the local streets and apart that monument and the Temple to honour the Olympic torch in the town you can admire other sculptures linked to the Hellenic world.

 A further monument linked to all that is a statue depicting Teocles the founder of the first settlement and furthermore you can also admire the Porta di Naxos ,the Gate of Naxos built in 2000 consisting in a Neoclassic Temple door erected to celebrate the twinning with the town of Naxos.


The concept to establish that kind of construction also means in its deepest philosophy closely linked to the most significant Hellenic means  a message of something always opened to the intercultural interchange between two towns and their inhabitants very rooted since the times of the ancient Athina which established gates in its centre and territorial boundaries not just for defencive purposes or to show its grandeur but also to welcome other people of different provenance.

The long local beach is certainly a more than striking attraction, it was originally covered by small stones a sort of gravel called in Sicilian ghiaiettu and later it was totally transformed in a magnificent sandy golden stretch.

It is currently one of the most beautiful beaches of the entire Sicily for the quality of its service such as maintenance, cleanliness and surveillance and boasting a constant deserved Blue Flag.

The turquoise waters of the Ionian Sea lining a coast totally flanked by a wonderful Mediterranean vegetation highlighted by dazzling exotic plants form for its symmetry and perfect layout  a stunning setting with an idyllic tropical aspect and what is also simply amazing is the very attractive combination of stunning tonalities and colours which will surround you.

One of the highlight you can enjoy there apart that amazing view is also the chance to be delighted by that constant presence of warm sunbeams extremely loved by many tourists and all those features made that luminous Ionian pearl a festival of colours and reflections without equals highlighted by many others contemplating from there unforgettable sunsets. 

A very suggested place to have a great panoramic view to remember forever is to reach the coastal extremity where is situated the Marina Yachting and from there you will enjoy an unforgettable image of the the entire Mediterranean straight towards north and the  marvellous image of the unforgettable silhouette of the  promontory of Capo Taormina.

Another recommended suggestion simply superb is a relaxing walk along Calcide Eubea which will show you the formation of the headland walking for about 10/15 minutes along that street flanking magnificent blue waters with a seabed absolutely stupendous.

Notable is the opportunity to practise several outdoor activities in Giardini Naxos.Water sports are activities you can enjoy for many months a year with several chances to practise,diving,snorkeling, water skiing, sailing, wind surgfing and para fly among others.

 If you love to play tennis there are courts ready to welcome you while for all ther Golf lovers there is a brilliant option consisting in Il Picciolo Golf Club, a splendid 18 hole course situated in Castiglione di Sicilia, a small centre between Randazzo and Taormina approximately 20 minutes driving from the seaside resort.


If you are a lover of other outdoor activities such as trekking and mountain bike, Alcantara Valley is the perfect place for you to discover wild forests, a typical Mediterranean vegetation,spectacular gorges and rocky spurs in a scenery absolutely stunning and with many options of stunning routes.

Naturally in the proximity of the resort exists the great opportunity to enjoy a very active cultural and historic tourism and several are other destinations of notable interest.Naturally the nearest Taormina is mandatory, Letojanni is a further with a wonderful coastal stretch and a fabulous beach (I wrote a post about that resort) the historic cities of Messina and Catania Messina,Catania  (if you are interested I wrote a post about that city) and also Calatabiano is more than suggested.

Undoubtedly all that is a rich and great combination and an outstanding incentive to organise holidays with an ample fan of opportunities to discover the beauty of Sicily in all its magnificent essence with minimum distances in kilometres and regarding that I added some links below the post to help you to plan your stay including with some Hotels very suggested.

The local Gastronomy is another special and pleasant highlight and it reflects the typical Mediterranean cuisine of the northeastern Sicily with some affinities with the nearest Calabria. Fish and seafood are of divine quality cooked in several styles such as in sauce,baked,fried, grilled and always  accompanied by complete fresh mixed salads with a delicious tomato unique in its kind for its incomparable taste.

Do not miss to try the Piscispada a Gghiotta, a delicious plate consisting in swordfish also prepared in many other styles such as grilled,baked and in balls too.

Another local tradition are grilled vegetables,such as peppers, zucchini, aubergines adding olive oil and salt and served as appetisers or in a large tray as starters accompanyning delectable fresh Scampi, a superb prawn cocktail or a salad with mussels and clams and you wil have the chance to be delighted by a more than delicious Caponata.

The frittura mista is also a great option tasting fantastic fried squid and different kinds of fish and you wil have the chance to be delighted by a more than delicious Caponata.

Pasta is a further speciality very popular with protagonist the traditional Spaghetti con le Sarde, big Sardines with a exquisite flavour or as alternative the delectable Spaghetti con Acciughe pasta preapred  with fresh and delectable anchovies. I suggest you to try a further plate as the famous Spaghetti a Picchiu Pacchiu prepared with tomato,basil and very spicy Chilli pepper.

Excellent is the Granita as in all the region produced with natural fruit juices and do not miss the fragrant brioches,the Pignolata and the famous Sicilian Cannoli  which are produced loyal the most ancient traditions.Typical  of Messina and common in all its province is the Cuddura,a sort of donuts of Greek heritage prepared salty or also sweet.

The smooth local fine wines are other products of superb quality. The success is the result of a mild climate all year,the excellent warm temperatures in late spring and summer give those robust grapes constant sun preparing them for a great harvest.

Thanks also to the excellent subsoil compounds you can taste wines which boast an incomparable body,t exture and they are characterised by a very rich taste and extremely smooth. An additional very positive feature is that they are pretty versatile and you can use them to prepare different recipes or adding them in classic cocktails.

Simply try a red Mamertino Riserva mixed with a bit lemon sprite and ice, it is a suggestion and  you will be enchanted.Some of the most recommended in the area are also Faro, Mamertino di Milazzo ,Cariddi and Capo Bianco all them o very high quality. 
 
Catania Airport Vincenzo Bellini Fontanarossa is the nearest important Airport located at just 41,0 kilometres from the resort driving by  A18 Motorway Catania-Messina and taking the exit at Giardini Naxos-Taormina Sud and in approximately 50 minutes you will be at destination.

Visiting or spending holidays in Giardini Naxos is simply a brilliant idea anytime  and not just for the splendid beaches and selecting that place as a summer holiday destination.That site is a diamond where you can enjoy centuries of ancient history in a great scenery all year and for that it is not a standard seaside resort.

On the shore of one of the most striking Mediterranean corners lining crystalline waters feeling on you those warm sunbeams which are as a distinctive symbol of that paradise called Sicily along a luminous Ionian coast which in every metre of its shoreline remind the captivating Hellenic history will immediately transmit you the joy to live one of your most unforgettable holidays.

Francesco Mari



Recommended Accommodations in Giardini Naxos

Hotel Hellenia Yachting
Hotel Hilton Giardini Naxos
Hotel Assinos Palace
Hotel Villa Aphne
Hotel Palladio
Hotel Orpheus
Hotel Caesar Palace
Hotel Giardino dei Greci
Hotel Tysandros

Useful links

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Thanks a lot to read and note.