Èze | Nietzsche Divine French Riviera Inspiration Admiring Cap Ferrat.


Êze is certainly one of the most picturesque places of the famed and charming Côte D´Azur so famous to have been Nietzsche divine French Riviera inspiration highlighted by a magnificent view point admiring Cap Ferrat walking along a a stunning panoramic path which is one undoubtedly one of its most spectacular attractions.

That fantastic image immediately conquered and delighted that famed German writer for its immense,unique scenic charm and unforgettable views.The artist came in total connection with such sublime place and probably that Southern French resort left relevant marks in its soul as an indelible imprint immortalised in a sort of perpetual stunning picture inside him which probably inspired that notorious philosopher every time in occasion of the development of his works.


Situated along the Moyenne Corniche that stupendous road flanked by spectacular cliffs,secular magnetic rocky spurs and a fascinating Mediterranean vegetation that diamond set on a  fairytale hill  just 12,0 kilometres east from the city of Nice is a small  centre characterised by its picturesque narrow streets and captivating alleys in an environment which seems created to offer the most enchanting appeal of that corner of Southern France.

That coastal municipality of approximately 3,000 inhabitants could be considered one of the most shining landmarks and a relevant spot for the Region Provençe et Alpes Maritimes and certainly for a tourist a destination to choose immediately without hesitations to spend magnificent  holidays enjoying all what that place transmits with its magnetic charm

Èze is highlighted by a wonderful coastline view on one of the most ravishing and superb peninsulas of the entire Riviera (Cap Ferrat) that picturesque and astonishing headland able to conquer everyone at first sight.


Another special highlight which increases the captivating aspect of that maritime jewel is undoubtedly its
bay boasting a marvellous fan of colours and impressive natural details.Dominated by fascinating mountains and its shoreline lined by the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean with its marina located along a coastal stretch leading to Cap-d´Ail (I wrote a post about that resort if you are interested) by a a stylish hallway to the famous Principality of Monaco

At short distance from the inhabited centre on the nearest hills is situated the small town of La Tourbie a stunning municipality with wonderful  views towards Montecarlo and a marvellous coastline.

Èze has a long history to narrate and it was populated since prehistoric time.Visited and settled by the Phoenicians as other coastal villages,that ancient population explored all the Mediterranean area and according historic documentations erected in that place a temple in honour of the Goddess Isis establishing furthermore an active trade port which was in constant contact with Massalia the current city of Marseilles.

Another important event was when the local territories were colonised by the Romans who met in that land the Ligurians,Celtic settlers who were in the major part assimilated during the campaign of the Imperial Rome in Gallia.

The Roman domain endured for long time developing furthermore what the predecessors rulers left with the establishment of a harbour mainly used for trade between the coasts of the current Italian Region Liguria and lthe coastal territories corresponding to the Camargue.

 Despite all that notable and busy commercial traffic the former settlement after the fall of the Empire lived long periods of instability and devastation when was attacked several times by numerous invaders especially famous are the several incursions by Vandals, Moorish and and pirates who left that land in a total desolation transforming it in a feared corsair stronghold.

The medieval era was the period in which Èze  was governed by local nobles in particular by Guillaume I Count of Avignon son of Boson Count of Arles,Provençe and Avignon named during his rule Le Liberateur which means the Liberator.

That nickname because he totally released the French Riviera which was for a long time infested by Berber pirates and Saracen invaders and after those successful operations,that character restarted to repopulate the area with farmers artisans and merchants.

It was the 10th century when that powerful and charismatic figure established in all the local lands a severe and inflexible feudalistic system not always loved and accepted by many locals with riots from time to time but despite that he was considered especially by the humble social class a sort of hero for all what he did before giving them protection and a land to cultivate.

The town was later ruled by other aristocrats as the Riquer in the 14th century a wealthy family from Nice linked to the Marine Republic of Genoa by solid and strong relationships and that was a period in which Èze thanks to all that became a pretty famous maritime stage mainly frequented mainly by merchants coming from that Ligurian City who used the small local harbour as stop during their transits in the Northern Mediterranean.

The current town afterwards fell under the influence of the Duchy of Savoy who developed there an important base for their maritime businesses and those Dukes who became future rulers of the Kingdom of Piedmont-Sardinia and of Sovereigns of the Reign of Italy created several and relevant disputes with other noble French Houses for the domain of those very strategic territories which were a sort of relevant bridge
between the Côte D´Azur and the interior of the Provence.


That occupation full of events and highlighted by battles,short truces,treaties and periods of renaissance and decay was often attacked by the troops of Louis XIV with the intention of that famed Sovereign  to reunify all the French territories removing that vast mosaic of noble Houses formed by conflictive Duchies and Counties always protagonists of territorial disputes and hostiles to an unique Monarchy which could delete their power,influence and hunger of prestige becoming simple vassals in a huge Kingdom or in more than one case risking the exile abroad with their titles banned disappearing by the motherland scenery.

The local history of Èze will continue following the fate of Nice both  incorporated to France in the year 1860 when the Duchy of Savoy despite was able to reunify all the territories in the Italic Peninsula creating the Kingdom of Italy  lost many of its territories of the Riviera which became lands of the French Republic after a treaty.

That is in brief the chronological history of the current resort which despite its small size has always been a place coveted for its strategic position on the Mediterranean apart to be loved for its natural fantastic beauty by several visitors since long time ago.

The town is subdivided in some determined and marked areas,one of them is called  Èze su Mer which corresponds to that territorial section situated along the coast while the second consists in Èze Village which is the neighbourhood consisting in the medieval centre.

The historic core of Èze is mainly concentrated around Place du Centenaire a charming square connected to the main streets of the La Vieille Ville (the old town) as Rue Plaine close to L´Eglise d´Eza the Parish Church and leading to the Chateau Eza one of the two local castles and today representing a charming Hotel.

 Rue Principale is the main artery which connects the medieval nucleus to the other former castle the Chateau Chevre D´Or while Avenue du Jardin Exotique is the boulevard which is the connection between  the old town and Avenue de Verdun that latter corresponding to the access to Le Col D´Èze a scenic hill at over 500,0 metres of altitude and also passage to reach La Tourbie.

In the Western side of the municipality is situated Avenue de la Moyenne Corniche that famous road which is another entrance coming from Nice a wonderful panoramic artery ideal to enjoy beautiful Mediterranean landscapes driving across that hilly plateau overlooking that charming and sublime picture of the stunning Côte d´Azur.

The charming and radiant medieval centre is a maze of appealing windy streets,picturesque stoned houses and cobblestone alleys highlighted by beautiful old steps and with some shops on their sides.The atmosphere is simply magic because everything appears in its total essence as a extraordinary site narrated in one of the most intriguing and captivating novels of the Middle Ages.

All the core of the municipality is as a magnificent coffer packed by hidden secrets with fascinating Medieval corners transporting at first sight the sensations and the imagination of the visitor in that past back in the times in which everything seems to be left as then and also for all that Èze is so special and authentic in its kind.

Èze also offers a notable and rich historic patrimony and you can start the visit discovering all the beauty of such enchanting place from the Eglise de Notre Dame de Assomption a splendid Church dedicated to St.Mary of the Assumption.

That kind of construction  represents a typical and traditional example of Southern French Baroque characterised by special colours and architectonic details very rooted in that kind artistic style highlighted by sober but marked lines and at the same time with a careful and diligent research of the perfect symmetry and harmonious coupling of all the elements.

Erected in the 18th century,that Religious building shows a pretty austere aspect but at the same time charming for that captivating tonality of ochre colour bordered by light gray lines pretty common in the Southern French artistic School in that period.

That Sacred Temple following its original project was arranged on a long rectangular plan with a portal surmounted by a vaulted lunette corresponding to one of the main attractive elements of the facade.On the top was placed an irregular circular rose window and above the gable roof you will notice a forged metallic cross which is another detail pretty common in that area for use of material.

The high bell tower which complete the complex presents the same colour of the Church and it was erected on the right slightly back from the main body of the Sacred building.Developed on two huge square blocks with a round clock highlighted by blue Roman numerals and surmounted by a stylish roof consisting in three superimposed stoned sections.

The interior with a nave reflects as the exterior a relevant and classic Baroque style respecting balanced spaces and the apse studied to combine in a perfect harmony between the floor and the walls.The Church is
highlighted by the presence of crystal chandeliers and charming frescoes on the domed ceiling of the main altar.The altarpiece also loyal to the most traditional Baroque shows two big marble columns on both sides with a statue depicting the Virgin Mary.

In addition to all that you can admire an Egyptian cross which is probably related in some way to the first settlers of Èze the Phoenicians who worshipped the Goddess Isis who as you know was one of the major Egyptian divinities surrounded by mysteries and legends.

The Chapelle de Penitents Blancs also called Chapelle Sainte Croix,(the Chapel of the Saint Cross) is another historic highlight of the town very appreciated for its splendid outlined architectonic details very attractive considering the date of its construction.

Erected in Medieval times exactly in the early 14th century it is one one the most emblematic symbols of Èze and one of the best artistic examples of the Middle Ages in that area of the Côte D´Azur.That Church is also very famous because in in the year 1860 the order of the Penitents Blancs voted the annexation to France.

That order always played an important role in the community and was highly regarded at that time although it was a laic Institution who mainly helped and supported the local population who suffered plagues.They transmitted people the Christian stories related to the miracles and they were characterised because they totally dressed in white and passed a religion of penance to attain the mercy and atonement of sins.

The Chapel is dedicated to the the Saint Christian Cross.Its interior which is the most relevant attraction of that Sacred complex is characterised by splendid vaulted white ceiling and an altarpiece with a big cross made by a distinguished artist from Nice called Ludovico Brea very active all around the local area placed beneath a semi dome and highlighted by the presence of statues among them that one depicting St. Mary.

In Èze you can visit one of the headquarters of the famous Fragonard distillery and perfume factory famed establishment of Grasse in Provence (I wrote a post about that town) in which you can see the equipment with which are produced essences for fragrant perfumes so prestigious which reached the most important markets in the world.

Fragonard is one of the most notorious companies since 1926 until today its famed name is well known all around the globe with an outstanding reputation for its methods of preparation of stunning blends which are considered authentic sublimation of that kind of industry.

The Jardin Botanique the Botanical Garden of Èze is one of the other most relevant local attractions and the right place to realise as the mild climate of the French Riviera can be favourable to the cultivation of particular and special plants coming from other continents including from the equatorial areas which also find in the local territory with Mediterranean temperatures a favourable habitat to flourish in all their stunning beauty.

 
Opened and inaugurated after the 2nd World War that stupendous garden  was arranged on a land which housed the ruins of a fortified stronghold destroyed during the several battles along that French coast and it contains different types of plants and trees such as Cactus,Yucca,Aloe and Agave from different countries of the world.

The Chateau de la Chèvre D´Or which translated means Castle of the Golden Goat is another iconic building of the municipality and it was used for different purposes during its history.

Situated on the edge of a rocky escarpment with a wonderful panoramic view overlooking the coast from its charming courtyard highlighted by a decorated well surrounded by a space boasting a a lush Mediterranean vegetation.

That former castle has been home of a relevant artist when it was transformed in a residence and inhabited by the famous Croatian violinist Zlatko Balokovic who was a distinguished figure during the period of the former Republic of Yugoslavia,protagonist furthermore for his more than appreciated performances in several concerts worldwide.

Balokovic who also lived in Prague,USA and Venice where he died decided to chose that place as home
looking for a peaceful and inspiring corner in which the talented composer spent a lot considering that small paradise his golden haven to prepare his notable works.

That emblematic building also captured the attention of other people in particular of Robert Wolf a distinguished entrepreneur of catering and hospitality who saw that remarkable building so captivating at first sight and he decided to buy it transforming that charming construction it in a restaurant receiving in different occasions several visits by famed actors and renowned artists and characters among them the Principality of Monaco family and  Walt Disney.

After a great success thanks to an outstanding service that famous restaurant had other new owners and the structure was enlarged using other spaces of the former castle until to become a charming Boutique Hotel which was also used as set for some scenes of the famous movie The Bucket List a famed Warner Bros Production directed by Rob Reiner and starring Jack Nicholson who played the role of a wealthy businessman.

The Château Eza  is another beautiful Boutique Hotel offering style reminiscent another noble and aristocratic castle of the municipality providing the maximum comfort and all the amenities to enjoy an unforgettable stay spending holidays delighted by the natural beauty and panoramic views of the Côte D´Azur from a very scenic place.

That attractive and charming former stoned fortress is situated on the top of a picturesque and impressive  high cliff overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and from its magnificent terrace it offers one of the best view of the French Riviera which could be the cover of any album of your trips.

That magnificent Relais Chateau is also characterised for its former owners and it was once since the 20's and for about thirty years the residence of the Swedish Royal Family who loved to spend their holidays in that French resort.

That Scandinavian Monarchy found in such place a pleasant and magic destination during every spring and summer apart also spending several weekends in autumn and winter seasons delighted by a more than romantic atmosphere and mild temperatures escaping from the cold of Northern Europe.

Charm,style and taste are the special features of that establishment.The decorations and the furniture recall the medieval past mixed with trendy and modern details to make the guests' stay pleasant in every aspect including with that brilliant choice of fabulous aesthetic details.In addition very famous and boasting an excellent reputation is also its fine restaurant offering a menu à la carte highlighted by the most selected Nouvelle and Haute Cuisine offering delectable local specialities,fine wines and notorious for its stylish and attentive service.

Le Chemin de Nietzsche the iconic Path of Nietzsche named after the famous German writer and philosopher who often visited Èze during his period of illness spending log stays in the French Riviera in another highlight of that splendid coastal town is certainly one of the most shining attractions and superb highlights of that French resort.

 Totally In love with such place so picturesque and highly inspiring the German artist loved to enjoy long pleasant walks along that marvellous trail which is a sort of step to the Eden highlighted by a magnificent vegetation and incredible view points who can conquer everyone at first sight immortalising it in one of the most charming pictures ideal to cover an entire wall in every home.

The path from a perspective over its summit it  has a sort of  snake shape with several sinuous curves bordering for a while the  boundaries of the town and once reaching the top of the hill immersed in a beautiful Mediterranean vegetation the first sensations transmit something of simply sublime,a stunning scenery with unforgettable views accompanied by the mild breeze of the Mediterranean  combined with that extraordinary silhouette of those spectacular cliffs can generate so agreeable vibrations to everybody.

The artist found there his divine inspiration in that magic point admiring the spectacular shape of Cap Ferrat in an unique site to enjoy those magnetic landscapes under the warm sun of the French Riviera.

Once you are walking along it you will understand how that scenic path was able to transmit the philosopher from Röcken something simply special metre by metre and thanks to that he wrote one of his greatest masterpieces Also Sprach Zarathustra (This Spoken Zarathustra) walking there,thinking and developing that literary outstanding work which conquered a multitude of readers who also started to be attracted by Èze as iconic place and dreamland protagonist for the magnificent inspirations transmitted to such notorious character.

Èze has always been a destination for distinguished people so loved  for its astonishing and appealing beauty and for all what there is around it in every corner of that gorgeous little paradise of the Côte d´Azur.

Apart the mentioned Swedish Royalty and the Grimaldi of Monaco that resort was also frequented by the Savoy Royalty in several occasions,French artists in particular a notable number of painters and also by the Irish Rock Group U2 who fell in love with the landscapes and the captivating image of that divine place of the French Riviera.

Next to the beauty and the historic patrimony of that coastal wonder the visitor can also enjoy a wide range of outdoor activities,water sports and especially sailing and diving are among the most practised by a multitude of people but also relevant are others as trekking exploring its scenic,wild and striking hilly interior,cycling and mountain bike are other special highlights thanks the presence of several magnificent routes crossing points of a fascinating beauty.

The traditional cuisine of Èze is typically Mediterranean and the local area produces an excellent olive oil with a very soft and delicate taste ideal for every kind of salad,sauces and accompanying fish and meat.
Another local activity of notable success is linked to the cultivation of vineyards which produce a relevant choice of fine wines.

The local gastronomy is also strongly linked to the Niçoise Cuisine due the proximity to Nice so in that place you can have several opportunity to taste and enjoy the famed and delicious local specialities such as the genuine and homemade Salade Niçoise,an exquisite tapenade and the traditional and delicious  Ratatuille and Pissaladiere.

Excellent are also recipes which include bread as main ingredient as the popular  Pan Bagnat and the famed Socca a sort of Focaccia very similar to the famed Genoese prepared in different styles using fresh vegetables and highlighted by that touch of local delectable olive oil.

Fish and seafood are always fresh are prepared in several styles and a particular mention deserves the local anchovies often present in starters and appetisers but also minced and present in salads and sauces characterised by an unique superb flavour and of relevant quality the mussels present in different kind of seafood soups,combined plates and casseroles.

The local mild climate with an incredible number of sunny days a year combined with that salubrious maritime breeze which characterises that land is the right place to produce a superb quality of fine wines.

The magnificent properties which offers the local fertile soil so rich in natural compounds  permits to cultivate at a suitable and perfect altitude robust grapes of immense value which are protagonists to create superb
and selected wines such as Bandol and Bellet, a divine local Syrah Cabernet-Sauvignon,the famed Grenache among others.

The best features of those outstanding kind of wines is that are all very versatile with that universal capacity with their smooth and savoury taste to accompany an ample range of main courses,ideal also to be combined in the creation of fresh and appreciated cocktails  and furthermore very suitable with their use  in the
preparation of different kind of food flavouring a vast range of exquisite recipes.

The nearest airport is the Aéroport Nice Côte D´Azur which is situated at just 12,0 kilometres west of the resort and in approximately 20 minutes driving you will reach that sublime destination.

 Èze is an authentic shining gem,that town is simply special with its medieval centre perfectly combined with the stunning environment which is a natural Eden so magnificent with its astonishing and mesmerising colours forming all around that coastal centre a stupendous frame.

Every corner of that magnificent and inviting place admiring the Mediterranean coastline and that spectacular image depicting the silhouette of Cap Ferrat will transmit you something of great ad it did with Nietzsche.

What is also very impressive is the luminous image it offers day and night,spring or summer and including in autumn or winter in a day in which the sun lights are from to time a little bit shy behind a cloud the first sunny ray is able to transform all what there is around in a festival of shining colours.

The most fascinating Southern France is also there in Èze which is something simply unique and absolutely unforgettable,so suggested to visit taking home a marvellous and more than suggestive travel picture of the French Riviera which will be certainly recorded and preserved in your best memories.

Francesco Mari


Recommended Accommodations in Èze

Hotel Château Eza
Hotel Château de la Chevre D´Or
Hotel Hermitage Èze
Hotel Cap Estel
B&B La Vieille Bergerie
B&B Bastide Aux Camelias


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