Pavia | Medieval Treasure on Ticino’s Banks

 

Pavia is one of the medieval gems of Lombardy, the ancient Ticinum which had the honor of being crowned as the capital of the Lombard Kingdom, one of the provincial capitals that has been able to masterfully preserve intact its historical core developed in the Middle Ages.

 A fascinating city where, next to palaces and monuments of enormous historical and artistic value, there are perfectly preserved cobbled streets and alleys, making you relive at first glance times of a distant past that seems to have stopped as if by magic.

I suggest starting the visit from the Visconti Castle, the city's icon was the fortress of the Visconti family, Lords of Milan strongly linked for genealogical reasons to this city.

Stopping in front of this imposing structure with massive quadrangular towers symbol of power and defense, crenellated sections and ravelins, high walls of considerable thickness, you will notice the typical, architectural features in vogue in all the Sforza - Visconti strongholds.

The building dates back to 1360 at the behest of Galeazzo II Visconti and undoubtedly represents one of the great masterpieces of medieval military architecture existing in the entire Italian peninsula.

This building is also known for anecdotes such as the "obligatory" stay of the legendary Tuscan writer Francesco Petrarca who had to stay in this fortress not as a recluse but for the event of the famous Battle of Pavia.

In this ducal stronghold the Petrarch Library was born  with manuscripts and books by that illustrious man of letters now preserved in the Civic Museums of Pavia.

The Visconti Castle now houses some important museums including an archaeological exhibition , the rich Pinacoteca and the Museum of the Risorgimento.

Continuation with the beautiful Basilica of San Pietro in Ciel D'Oro, a religious building dating back to the twelfth century,  a jewel of Romanesque art considered one of the treasures of Pavia in the Middle Ages, developed in bricks on a rectangular plan with three naves with apse, transept and crypt.

The structure canonically respects the inclusion of the elements in the layout of that style of 1300 and was mentioned by Dante Alighieri in the Divine Comedy, Giovanni Boccaccio in the Decameron and Francesco Petrarca who fell in love with Pavia and this Basilica.

Visiting the interior you can admire the marble Ark of St. Augustine with the relics of the Holy Doctor decorated with bas-reliefs that narrate the life of the Bishop of Hippo that lies in the basin of the apse under a fresco of the 900 that replaced a mosaic with the Golden Ciel destroyed in 1796 by the Napoleonic troops.

The Basilica houses in the Crypt the remains of the Lombard monarch Liutrando and those of the philosopher Severinus Boethius who was killed by the Ostrogothic King Theodoric.

We continue into the medieval village at the central artery Strada Nuova where the legendary University of Pavia stands, one of the oldest and most prestigious universities in Italy and the world that had as students and professors illustrious historical figures such as Alessandro Volta and Ugo Foscolo, a universatus studiorum consecrated at the dawn since its foundation dating back to 1631 at the behest of Emperor Charles IV

Developed in a building of the 1400s with today some of its sections included in the architectural complex of the San Matteo Hospital.

Behind the main courtyard of the University is the monumental Piazza Leonardo da Vinci  where three medieval towers stand and the crypt containing the remains of Sant'Eusebio.  

Afterwards you can reach the intersection of Corso Cavour, considered the hub of Pavia's shopping, with boutiques and high fashion shops.

On its left side you have access to Piazzale della Vittoria where you will find the Broletto, a building that in the Middle Ages represented the highest administrative body of the city.

The building dates back to the 12th century and contains in one of its rooms the terracotta statue of the Madonna di Piazza Grande sculpted in 1600.

This beautiful urban space was strongly desired by the Visconti Dukes to expand the area where the ancient Roman Forum of Pavia was built and where the magnificent portico that surrounds this refined square was then developed.

A short distance away is the magnificent Cathedral also called Duomo, built on a Greek plan with three naves on the square of the same name dedicated to Santo Stefano Martire and Santa Maria Assunta, built in the fifteenth century in the place where the ancient Twin Churches stood.

A masterpiece of the Lombard Renaissance,  the Duomo boasts an extraordinary dome that reaches a height of 97.0 meters, making it the third largest in Italy. The executor was the great architect Giovanni Antonio Amadeo, it is said with the advice of Leonardo da Vinci.

Visiting the interior you can admire valuable Baroque works and works by talented artists such as Cerano, Gatti, Orsolino and Giovanni Crespi.

Time for your lunch and remaining in the traditional Pavia cuisine I recommend among the first courses to choose Orange Risotto with Duck or Pasta and Beans alla Pavese, among the second courses the options will be Boiled Beef with Peverat Sauce and Seasonal Vegetables or Stewed Pork Ribs with Potatoes with excellent wines of the Oltrepò Pavese as an accompaniment.

After lunch, you can continue your visit to the wonderful Basilica of San Michele Maggiore, a Romanesque diamond in  Lombardy, built between the eleventh and twelfth centuries.

It is an authentic masterpiece in sandstone that covers the beautiful gabled façade and the capitals of the three naves on a Latin cross with sculptural reliefs representing nature, biblical stories, anthropomorphic and zoomorphic subjects and in summary the human story of the struggle between good and evil with the figure of St. Michael the Archangel against a dragon.

The Basilica was the place that saw the coronation of various kings and emperors, among which the last was Frederick Barbarossa who strongly wanted this event in the ancient Tempium Regium,  the supreme religious seat in the Lombard era.

 The visit can be concluded by reaching the Ticino river with the legendary Covered Bridge, a magnificent fourteenth-century structure 216.0 meters long built in concrete and masonry that connects Pavia to Borgo Ticino.

This bridge, very picturesque, even seen from afar, highlights its beautiful five arches and with a hump-like profile, where the Chapel of St. John Nepocumeno, protector of floods, is also located.

Pavia has a unique beauty, a great historical and artistic heritage of enormous importance and its visit is always etched in the memories of a journey through time.

 

Link : https://www.comune.pv.it/site/home.html

 

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Ferrara | Superb Estense Fascination

 

Ferrara, one of the provincial capitals of Emilia Romagna, a city of immense and superb beauty that reached its splendour and beginnings in the Renaissance, becoming the capital and shining, iconic enclave of a very influential independent Duchy during the golden age of the noble Este Lordship.

This centre boasts a remarkable historical, cultural, architectural and monumental heritage, this Emilian city had among its guests in different periods illustrious historical figures who were enchanted by the flourishing and jovial life offered within the Este walls, namely Tiziano Vecellio, Andrea Mantegna, Pietro Bembo, Giovanni Pico della Mirandola, Ludovico Ariosto, Torquato Tasso, Paracelsus and Nicolaus Copernicus.

I suggest starting your visit near the famous medieval red brick walls that surround  the city center for about 9000 meters, one of the largest impregnable defensive systems developed in the Middle Ages and Renaissance in Europe.

This extensive protective bulwark was developed with its main entrances corresponding to Porta Paola erected in  the seventeenth century and Porta degli Angeli, the latter known for having been crossed by the last Duke of the House of Este, Cesare which opens onto the Ferrara countryside near the banks of the Po river.

This gate was erected next to the ramparts erected at the behest of Alfonso II with easy access to the imposing Bulwark of the Mountain .

Around the perimeter walls stand the Towers of San Giovanni , developed on a circular plan where the path of the guards and the Barco began, which was part of the nucleus corresponding to the 15th century.

Continuation with the iconic Estense Castle,  a stronghold dating back to 1385, erected by the architect Bartolino da Novara following the orders of Nicolò d'Este, originally built as a defensive fortress later becoming the official residence of the court of the Duchy.

 The project was conceived around the already existing Tower of the Lions, which remained part of the complex and with four quadrangular towers placed on each cardinal point connected by an impassable wall.

Over the course of its history, the structure was modified on several occasions to improve its functionality until 1450 when the last variation was to transform that sort of military stronghold into a very large, aristocratic residence.

Continue with the beautiful Cathedral of St. George built in 1135, a marvel of medieval art that boasts extraordinary marble decorations and a design of the external layout where every architectural element was inserted with perfect criteria.

The façade is absolutely magnificent with a beautiful central portal and a porch dating back to the seventeenth century where in its lunette you can admire the image of St. George of Nicholas and part of the complex an unfinished bell tower erected by the architect Leon Battista Alberti.

Visit of the interior which contains magnificent masterpieces such as the Last Judgement executed by the talented artist Bastianino covering the vault, a sublime work with clear inspiration from that of Michelangelo Buonarroti developed in  the Sistine Chapel in Rome.

You can also admire the beautiful semicircular apse designed by Biagio Rossetti and the refined Loggia dei Merciai dating back to the 15th century.

Continuation with the wonderful Doge's Palace erected in 1243, residence of the Dukes of Este until the 16th century before moving to the Castle.

Inside you will notice what was the ducal court before being transformed into the Municipal Square and where you will be delighted by a valuable work by the architect Pietro Benvenuti corresponding to a staircase developed in 1481 and the former Court Chapel which was built at the wish of Ercole I d'Este and currently home to a theater hall.

Not to be missed is a visit to the Duchesses' Dressing Room which is said to have been the room occupied by Lucrezia and Eleonora D'Este,  a refined space of the 500 lavishly decorated and the Sala dell' Arengo containing contemporary frescoes executed between 1934 and 1938 by Achille Fumi.

Time for your lunch, remaining in the typical, local, I suggest among the first courses Cappellacci with Pumpkin or Tagliatelle with Meat Sauce, second courses to choose between Salama with Potato Puree or Grilled Pork Rib with Spinach and Sautéed Zucchini

Afterwards enjoy a pleasant walk in Via delle Volte enlivened by various arches and vaults and Via Ripagrande which represent the two vital arteries of the city axis that in the past constituted the commercial part of Ferrara, the first landing place of barges and barges transporting goods on the Po river.

 

The second boasts at number 112 the beautiful fourteenth-century Casa Gombi and other buildings of great charm from the 1400s.

 

Continue with the visit of the Jewish Ghetto of Ferrara which winds through Via Mazzini, Via della Vittoria and Via Vignatagliata including Piazza Lampronti built in the seventeenth century due to the Papal Laws, a place that shows characteristic houses leaning against each other with balconies and windows in iron, large cornices and entrance portals to courtyards decorated in terracotta.

 

Continuation with the beautiful Church of the Gesù located along Via Borgoleoni designed by the architects Giovanni Tristani and Alberto Schiatti .

 

Erected in 1570 at the behest of the Confraternity of Jesuit Fathers, you can admire the splendid façade divided into two sections where in the lower part there are three beautiful decorated portals and four outlined niches.

The interior has a nave with six side chapels where we can admire seven life-size statues made of colored terracotta depicting illustrious figures of the Este Duchy and transferred to this church in 1938 from the Church of Santa Rosa.

Continuation with the mausoleum of Barbara of Austria, a sixteenth-century sepulchral monument of the wife of Duke Alfonso II d'Este located in the apse behind the altar, the work of Francesco Casella.

You will then arrive in front of one of the architectural symbols of Ferrara or Palazzo dei Diamanti erected in 1493 by the architect Biagio Rossetti and dedicated to Sigismondo d'Este,  a construction built using 8,500 blocks of marble worked in the shape of a diamond with a position that allowed residents to have a complete view of other buildings in the center of Ferrara.

 In 1832 this architectural masterpiece was purchased by the Municipality and today corresponds to the headquarters of the Contemporary Civic Gallery located on the ground floor while the National Art Gallery was set up on the second floor .

Later you can admire another noble building, namely Palazzo Prospero – Sacrati, erected in the same year as the Palazzo dei Diamanti to house Francesco da Castello, who was the trusted physician of Duke Ercole I d'Este, who died in 1511 shortly before the last works were completed.

The structure shows a splendid corner pillared façade with a spurious balcony added in 1857 and a portal decorated with friezes and cherubs that support the balcony and currently home to a museum space.

 The visit can end with the Municipal Theatre , a beautiful building built in 1798 that hosts a calendar full of events with special mention to Opera and contemporary music.

Visiting Ferrara with its immense historical, artistic and cultural heritage is a unique journey, an unforgettable experience for those who love tourism and enrich their knowledge with something truly unique.

 

Link : https://www.inferrara.it/en/homepage

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Castiglione Olona | Picturesque Island of Tuscany in Lombardy

Castiglione Olona is a very captivating and picturesque medieval borgo in the province of Varese on the banks of the Olona river nicknamed "Island of Tuscany in Lombardy" for its striking, hilly landscape having strong similarities with the magnificent region of central Italy and the numerous works left by sublime artists from Tuscany.

That nickname also came by Gabriele D'Annunzio,great writer, poet, journalist, playwright from Pescara, also prince of Montenevoso and duke of Gallese.

According to the opinion of that eminent character of Italian literature, this Lombard town he visited reminded him of the enchanting images of the Chianti area, the Valdichiana, the Alta Val D'Elsa which were countless destinations of his stays.

Via Cairate in a few minutes from the destination, the first sight that will confirm that nickname directly linked to the Tuscan territories will be the picturesque Castle of Monteruzzo which stands on a wonderful hill immediately finding that resemblance.

This splendid manor dating back to the 19th century  is completely surrounded by a beautiful green area, it was in the past the residence of the noble Castiglioni family of Monteruzzo from which it derives its name and later the habitual accommodation of the highest Milanese aristocracy.

Once you reach the heart of Castiglione Olona in a pleasant walk in the medieval village you will be cheered by charming streets, picturesque alleys and captivating alleys flanked by period buildings and beautifully restored courtyards with balconies and farmhouses that take you back in time as if by magic.

The first splendid highlight that you can admire is Palazzo Branda, the former Cardinal Branda Castiglioni residence.

This charismatic figure was known for his considerable influence in the Vatican, highly appreciated by  the Emperor Sigismund of Luxembourg and also by the Kings of Hungary, Croatia, Germany and the Elector of Brandenburg who saw in that Monsignor a sparse, diplomatic person, of infinite wisdom, of great class, with impeccable modalities and culturally above average.

The interior contains a splendid Chapel dedicated to San Martino, frescoed in 1437 by Lorenzo Di Pietro,a master from Siena known by the nickname of "Il Vecchietta", the room of the Cardinal with other frescoes executed by the forementioned Vecchietta and others by Masolino.

Continuation with the Chiesa del Santissimo Corpo di Cristo, the Church of the Most Holy Body of Christ erected between 1437 and 1444, a stupendous medieval work that follows in many of its architectural lines almost with symptoms of inspiration the refined style of the Florentine Masters.

Through a picturesque avenue with rising stone pavements flanked by characteristic stone walls, once you reach the top of a pleasant, gentle hilly ridge you will find yourself in front of the magnificent Colllegiata also known as the Church of Santo Stefano e Lorenzo.

This medieval masterpiece was executed by the masters Pietro, Giovanni and Alberto Solari,  an ecclesiastical seat consecrated on March 25, 1425, a work that was commissioned by the Cardinal Branda Castiglioni.

This masterpiece boasts an extraordinary Romanesque façade with a wonderful rose window considered one of the most important works of Italian art corresponding to the fifteenth century.

The perfect symmetry of all the architectural elements inserted into the layout with a magnificent arched window, refined contours and elaborate lines of the niche, lunettes and columns of the portal make this sacred building unique.

The Collegiata is also the emblematic place containing the wonderful cycle of frescoes  by Tommaso Cristoforo Fini known as Masolino da Panicale,  an immense Tuscan artist who painted the beautiful Brancacci Chapel in Florence.

Masolino was a well-known pupil of the famous artist Ghiberti and the teacher of another eminent painter such as Masaccio,considered by far one of the best Italian artists of the Middle Ages.

In this superb cycle of frescoes you can admire superlative lines, perspectives close to perfection and with a unique characteristic in those times, namely the great taste in the choice and combinations of vivid colors with protagonists, brightness, contrasts, and shades, works by the unique talent of a predestined for that period.

The scenes seem to narrate a story that is painted but that to the human eye appears as alive, the anatomy of the people depicted is very close to the Renaissance rather than to the art of the Middle Ages.

The anatomical profiles are at the forefront compared to many contemporaries and the same goes for the perspectives

In the adjacent Baptistery, the stories of St. John the Baptist portrayed by this incomparable artist will be a further confirmation.

Other great works worthy of mention in the complex are those of "Il Vecchietta" where its eclectic matrix appears and also those of the talented Florentine painter Paolo Schiavo who supported Masolino in the execution of the extraordinary frescoes in correspondence with the apse.

At the end of the visit, time for your lunch, suggestion to stay in the traditional Risotto with Cantello Asparagus or Pennette with Gorgonzola, among the second courses Breaded Cotoletta or Turkey Breast with Rosemary, both with a side of baked potatoes.

Visiting Castiglione Olona is a deep entry into history and pure art, a full immersion that always leaves happy memories in a day of tourism admiring unique masterpieces very difficult to forget.

 

Link : http://www.comune.castiglione-olona.va.it

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