Pomarkku-Finland | Pristine Nordic Mesmerising Wilderness.

Pomarkku is a charming centre of Finland which represents in all its splendour the perfect and unforgettable image of that marvellous Scandinavian country extremely highlighted by a a pristine Nordic mesmerising wilderness which is undoubtedly one of the great natural highlights beauty of that stunning land eternally visible and captivating in that centre able to enchant every visitor at first sight.

That is one of the great, fascinating secrets of that stupendous Northeastern European Nation characterised by its  intact nature which find a great representative in that centre of approximately 2,500 inhabitants situated at 290,0 kilometres north-west of the capital Helsinki, in the attractive region of Satakunta, a few steps from the Gulf of Bothnia north of Pori, the tenth largest municipality of  the country, major centre of the district in the province of Western Finland.

The proximity of the Baltic Sea with its fabulous coastline is a further splendid attraction with the magnificent presence of long sandy beaches, highlighted by striking views along an enchanting coastline which at sunset will show you some of the best images you can admire in the entire Scandinavian peninsula.

You will discover all around that Finnish municipality a huge mosaic of wonderful fairytale corners boasting superb marvels which immediately transmit the visitor the pure fascination of an enchanting territory, packed by large green forests, wild streams, calm rivers and an incredible number of stunning lakes.

All those natural attractions surrounded by a magic aura encircle that town making it a special, suggested destination extremely appropriate for all those who want to enjoy holidays admiring something of simply extraordinary.

In the Finnish Republic you can find small towns which convey the magic charm of a spectacular natural scenery and that beautiful centre is a true confirmation thanks to its magnificent location on the shore of the splendid uncontaminated Pomarkunjoki river, a waterway of immense fascination flanked by a beautiful large woodland unique in its kind for its colours and preservation.

You will also have the great chance in its proximity to enjoy the wonderful and picturesque Lake Isöjarvi, a waters basin among the most scenic and enchanting of the entire Nation, forming with that mentioned watercourse a great combination, both surrounded by a vivid green frame  which give that place a fabulous appeal.

The local forests are in their totality virgin offering unforgettable images to remember forever, they are absolute protagonists delighting many trekkers, enthusiastic photographers with the chance to immortalise in an endless set of pictures the indisputable charm of a country which shows all around its superb wilderness environment all its great enchantment.

Pomarkku also for that is a fantastic, appropriate destination for families with children who will have a lot of opportunities to spend very pleasant times in contact with nature far from traffic, noise, with a lot of things to do starting from simple relaxing walks in that wonderful woodland in which silent and serenity are superb highlights.

In addition a further suggestion is that to enjoy brilliant excursion by boat on the local lakes discovering the charm of the true Finland which offers colours, tonalities and lights absolutely mesmerising.

Water sports such as as rowing, canoeing, kayak but also fishing on the river Pomarkunjoki are other splendid chances to fill days with those attractive outdoor activities and also another niche consisting in tourism adventure is a further one very appropriate for those who love to live in contact with the captivating, wild Finland with a marvellous option to rent a cottage near one of those spectacular waterways living 100% that magnificent reality exploring lands packed by a myriad of hidden gems with a multitude of very pleasant surprises.

Cycling on road and mountain bike find in that geographic point of Finland a perfect habitat to be greatly practised thanks to great panoramic roads along the local waterways and waters basin with also several dirt trails and mixed routes extremely attractive.

Satakunta region is also perfect for who is fond of cycle tourism with excellent opportunities to delight your days during a stay discovering many towns and villages with important monuments, architecttural masterpieces some of them elevated in the Middle Ages next to other more modern but equally superb.

Another considerable aspect which characterises that town and its Region is a genuine and healthy local cuisine with the chance to taste and discover the secret of a culinary art highlighted by natural products delighting your palate with a multitude of delicious homemade recipes. 

About accommodations you can find some houses and cottages in the area very comfortable, full equipped with parking located in beautiful uncontaminated verdant, tranquil, environments.

Spring, summer and early autumn are absolutely wonderful seasons to enjoy all that in a peaceful, relaxing atmosphere including with pleasant temperatures enchanted by the fantastic colours of an incomparable nature.

Winter is perfect for who is a lover of Nordic skiing practising Cross-country but also Adventure skiing two other activities so loved by many people in a Nation with a long rooted traditionand all around Pomarkku you can find many trails to practise those Scandinavian winter sports.

Also the local history is pretty interesting, since medieval times when that area was occupied by the Swedes with the notorious land of King Erik in 1155 and the former settlement was known with the Swedish name of Pämark. 

That denomination means main market because since the Middle Ages the former village was a well known as a market place on the road leading to the important, active city of Tampere called in that time Tammerfors during the times of the Kingdom of Sweden.

A relevant aspect is that since those times Pomarkku became  a bilingual centre, the locals continued for long time to use both languages, the native next to that of the rulers also when the entire country fell under the Tsars influence when it became a domain of the Imperial Russia.  

Despite that, the name left by the Swedes was preserved next to that usual used by the Finns as something extremely rooted, very difficult to forget with a great surprise of the new Russian rulers.

Those years were with the final conquest by that Eastern European Empire corresponded to the famous Great Northern War which endured 21 years, a clash started in in the early 18th century in which the Russian and Swedish armies  fought for the domain of that land along the Baltic coasts but also in the entire mainland, village by village, hamlets by hamlets, including in some places house by house.

 In 1809 during the times of Aleksandr I  the entire country was annexed to that Empire and called Grand Duchy of Finland with major centre the current capital Helsinki. (in the case you are interested I wrote a post that fascinating city)

A historic highlight of those times is that since the first foreign occupation continuing much more with the second there was an intense movement with protagonists several peasants who with their frequent, continuous revolts and riots started a considerable struggle in the rural areas trying to fight a never accepted  rigid, harsh feudalistic system which did not permit them to progress or having a determined autonomy. 

The official municipality was founded in 1868 and the chronological stages of that region continued in a climate of hostility and intolerance towards the rulers until the Independence of the Nation in the early 20th century officially proclaimed in 1917.

In that period in that centre the main activities were mainly focused on agriculture, woodwork and fishing while in the new era other industries were developed with the establishment of small factories particularly devoted to footwear and metals.

  
Some years later came another one consisting in Tourism, a new source with very interesting proposals covering the demand of several travellers who could enjoy a wide choice of outdoor activities in a wonderful natural Eden but at the same time  delighted by a cultural tourism discovering the secular local patrimony next to the mesmerising wilderness of a country able to donate many people something to remember forever and absolutely impossible to forget.

The centre of the town is mainly concentrated south of the river crossed by three main roads, one is Vanhatie which close to the Town Hall crosses the municipality from south-west to north,  Riuttantie is another relevant avenue located in the southern side of Pomarkku Park meeting the previous in proximity of one of the two local Churches called Pomarkun Vanha Kirkko while Pitkakuja is a strategic artery consisting in a sort of belt east to the core of Pomarkku. 

You can start the visit from Pomarkun Kirkko, a charming stone Church erected on a previous dating back approximately the early 20th century. 

That imposing Lutheran temple was totally completed in 1921, was consecrated in the same year once ended the last works led by  Ilmari Launis, a prominent architect with an excellent fame.

That talented character was pretty famous because he designed approximately 16 churches in different areas of Finland becoming a notorious figure who gave a new artistic life and image with several outstanding projects in a country which has produced great architects such as the iconic Saarinen, Aalto, Granholm  next to others protagonists of outstanding civil masterpieces.

The construction reflects a typical and traditional romantic Nordic style in vogue in those times when born a movement highlyl inspired by the research of an exaltation of the territorial beauty to combine with architecture, a sort of  patriotic artistic style with the local scene protagonist in every detail always trying to find a sort of happy marriage between constructions and the natural environment encircling them.

You wil notice in that Church erected on a wide rectangular plan that the lower section of the structure was established using a gray stone but harmoniously matching with the upper section of the front side highlighted by a light red tonality, all that beneath a scenic gray gable roof.

The main facade has an ample doorway with a sort protuberance projected towards the exterior above the portal even though part of the main roof on which was placed a domed turret with a long spire while on the sides  of the building were established some curved windows.

The interior is sober, very modern but bright with wide, long windows which next to some charming chandeliers give luminosity to the entire apse.

The other Church of the municipality is called Pomarkun Vanha Kirkko situated in a beautiful green area surrounded by pine and firs trees along a picturesque path leading to the main entrance,  older than the previous because it was elevated in 1802 and it is a building which has strong, marked Swedish architectural influences. 

The wooden facade has a brown tonality with a yellow window, a main framed portal with white borders, defined outlines but despite those different colours, the structure has a a very scenic, attractive image well integrated in the local natural environment.

The appealing tower is surmounted by a large polygonal copper roof on which was placed a wooden cylinder surrounded by a vague tiny white circular  balcony beneath a sort of turret topped by an onion dome surmounted by a long pinnacle.

Also that construction is in its kind very attractive with the aim to capture the attention of the human eye with an eclectic aesthetic image boasting a balanced layout with elements inserted with criteria.

Pomarkku offers the opportunity to have enjoyable walks along the picturesque river Pomarkunjoki,  a sinuous, scenic waterway crossing the entire municipal boundaries offering a beautiful chance to enjoy magnificent images along its shore highlighted by the presence of forests, charming coloured wooden houses, captivating cottages, all them giving the town a fairytale aspect.

The river flows approximately flows 300,0 metres from the inhabited centre, it is particularly attractive for its bends which model the size of its course, reachable by Vanhatie, a road which crosses in a point it by continuing further north.

Once there in a walk of approximately half kilometre you will admire two spectacular curves, especially one is very attractive, towards west, wider than the other forming a sort of small bay similar to a tiny lake with a couple of scenic inlets, a very pleasant place to take many pictures.

A great highlight in the area is enjoying a special promenade anytime flanking a peaceful, silent woodland leading to a beautiful stone bridge, a very nice, romantic corner representing in its kind one of the several hidden wonders of that pleasant town. 

The Lake Isojärvi is another wonderful attraction you can not miss, a mandatory to visit when you are in Pomarkku.  

That beautiful waters basin with a surface area of 38,82 square kilometres is packed by stunning islets and tiny mesmerising islands it is a a true, Finnish diamond, along its coastline you will admire an immense verdant pristine paradise with wild inlets, picturesque small coves, a treasure of nature flanked by picturesque paths, all around showing the magic charm of Finland in all its splendour.

 Isöjarvi Lake for many Finnish people is among the most fascinating in the entire country, it is not very deep, the maximum depth is about 10,0 metres but what is really beautiful are the magnificent  tonalities it has especially at sunset when the sun rays falling down towards the forests form a spectacular fan of reflections with marvellous contrasts of colours, a wonder to immortalise without hesitations in several pictures placing all them in one of your big best travel albums.

A special place offering magnificent views is at the junction of the river Pomarkunjoki, from there you can move along the northern coast in a walk of approximately 700,0/800,0 metres, admiring a very attractive coastal stretch with a splendid succession of inlets with a spectacular view coast to coast  towards the equally beautiful southern shore.

The waters of that lake also meet those of the river Merikarvianjoki which ends its course in the Baltic Sea in the Gulf of Bothnia. 

Also that section is a very suggested for an enjoyable walk, following its shore for a while you can admire spectacular bends, straights some narrower than others on a shoreline lining a multitude of pine trees in an incomparable scenery absolutely astonishing.

On another side that lake joins a further stream called Salmusoja which ends its course in another waters basin, a place very suggested for all those who love rowing and kayak enjoying the experience to move from that waters basin to that river.

That Finnish town also offers tourism combined with fun and in Vanha juna-asema Pomarkku, the old railway station you can rent a hand car two place capacity covering an itinerary with a length of 48,0 kilometres along the former railway line connecting the town of Kankaapaa through Pomarkku to the nearest Norrmarkku, a former municipality which is nowadays a suburb of the city of Pori.

In that place you can admire a great attraction consisting in Villa Mairea, one of the great works by Alvar Aalto probably the most distinguished Finnish architect of Finland all time.

 That building was erected between 1938 and 1939 for the rich and wealthy family Gullichsen, established on a scenic low hill surrounded by a pristine pine forest.

 

The history of that construction is very special because at the beginning the project was focused to build a rustic mansion as second residence similar to a country house but that talented architect changed idea deciding to develop a very eclectic villa using different kinds of materials. 

The final execution created a very functional stylish  three-storey building with a L plan characterised by a large hallway starting from a portico leading to a sauna while in the middle of an ample garden was established a swimming pool.

Normankku apart that highlight is also famous for other aspects because it was originally a former town in majority inhabited by Swedish speaking people but that site was curiously also a place in which was established one of the first schools for only Finnish speaking pupils.

In addition it is also the seat of the headquarter of the famed Ahlstrom Corporation, a well known fiber and paper–based company founded in 1851 controlled by the family Gullichsen owner of the previously mentioned villa.

That experience by hand car is a way to do something of alternative but at the same time enjoying the natural paradise of Finland also with that kind of captivating unusual activity very attractive in its kind offering the chance to see different places with also historic attractions.

Around the municipality there are many other interesting places to visit, I suggest you Pori which is just 26,0 kilometres away,  a splendid old Finnish city famous for its active harbour ad it was since medieval times an important  former Swedish settlement called Björneborg. 

 That centre is highlighted by superb architectural masterpieces, green parks and it is also pretty famous because it is the cradle of the first Theatre performances in Finnish language. 

Absolutely spectacular is its waterfront facing a magnificent coastal stretch of the picturesque Gulf of Bothnia, it is a place boasting excellent beaches in its immediate proximity along a wonderful Baltic jagged coast flanked by a beautiful road excellent for those who love cycle tourism.

 In addition that centre it is the seat of Porijazz, one of the most important Jazz Festivals celebrated in the country, a very acclaimed event attracting many people from different regions with a very high reputation because in different editions performed artists of international fame such as Joe Cocker, Stevie Wonder and Alicia Keys among others.

The region of Satakunta is a great destination also for people fond of fishing, especially salmon while winter is the season in which Pomarkku thanks to its forests and the presence of snow is a paradise for Nordic skiing which thanks also to several scenic paths with a network of several kilometres in the immediate outskirts of the municipality is a stunning place to practise those activities.  

For the lovers of fauna that land is a special place for the presence of different kinds of birds, you can see in that territoriy Barnacle Geese, Ringed Polvers, Dunlins, Bar-tailed Godwits, different species of Ducks,  White-tailed Eagles among others. 

That is another option for all those who are fond of that activity called bird watching with the opportunities an ample variety of volatiles, some very rare, difficult to see in other countries.

A stay in Pomarkku will delight you also for a delicious cuisine, one of the iconic products consists in its delectable mushrooms considered among the best of the country. Some species called button, shiitake and oyster are used in different kinds of stews, soups, sauces or added as ingredients to a wide variety of recipes.

Fish is another gastronomic delight, you will find tastefully, always fresh herring, whitefish, perch, pike, salmon, the latter prepared in different styles such as grilled, smoked, marinated, present in soups or boiled and seasoned with aromatic herbs.

Notable is the quality of beef, poultry and pork meats, very popular is the traditional  reindeer soup, also  famed is the roast goose, highly appreciated are als waterfowl and duck prepared in different styles.

Grilled venison meats are also part of a vast culinary panorama, the typical Rauma lapskoussi  is a further plate consisting in a sort a sort of lobscouse casserole well known all around the region.

Very considerable is the presence in the local forests of berries and lingo berries often used to prepare cakes, bakery products but also supreme homemade jams while about desserts you can try the Eura Rinkilät, a sweet pastry which can accompany a warm tea or coffee.  

The closest Airport is Porin Lentoasema situated in Pori, it is a small airport providing some national and international flights located at 33,0 kilometres from that centre. 

A major airport not very far, ideal to have more options of landing is Tampere Pirkkala situated at 108,0 kilometres away. It provides several International, National and low cost flights, from there in approximately one hour and 40 minutes driving you can reach that town along the Route Porintie Strada 11 connected to Strada 259 via Lavia.

If you are planning a trip spending holidays in Finland organising a tailor made tour with different stages that peaceful and enchanting town called Pomarkku highlighted by that distinctive and pristine Nordic mesmerising wilderness is a great choice, a superb destination to admire something of extremely special.

The magic environment with the magnificent, unforgettable images of the Lake Isojärvi next to the fascinating course of the Pomarkunjoki river surrounded by a forestry Eden will delight you enjoying a unique travel experience which will be something to remember for a long time, probably also to repeat in future without hesitations because you will fall in love with that Scandinavian paradise simply unique in its kind.

Francesco Mari

Useful links

www.pomarkku.fi 
 www.satakunta.fi
revngo.com/pomarkku 

www.visitfinland.com 

Ghar El Melh-Tunisia | Sparkling Blue Waters in a Wonderful Gulf.

Ghar El Melh is a splendid coastal town of Tunisia with sparkling blue waters in a wonderful gulf.

That coastal town is located at just 63,0 kilometres north of the Capital Tunis along  Plage Sidi Ali El Mekki  a spectacular beach approximately  40,0 kilometres south east of Bizerte.

That site has a long history to say and narrate,a place which was land of conquest by many civilisations for its strategical position under the promontory of Ras Al Jebel and protected by Cap Rafraf with an easy access to the Gulf of Tunis,Gammarth and La Marsa.

All that meant once landed there to be at a very short distance from the capital of the country.It not a case due all that in the past Ghar El Melh was also a special place for the Maltese,Berbers and Saracens pirates who found in that maritime corner a great refuge along its coastline which forms a sort of lagoon with access to the sea.

That coastal conformation and of the territory was always a safe haven and away from immediate attacks by the sea,a hidden shelter in a gulf and known in old times by navigators and corsairs with the name of Porto Farina.

 The current town with its 5,500 inhabitants is situated at the foot of the hill Djebel Nadour and it is famous to have one of the most beautiful beaches of Tunisia,the Sidi Ali El Mekki beach a great extension of golden sand lined by sparkling blue waters  absolutely spectacular.

 That long and wide sandy stretch is often promoted in the stand of Tunisia in International Fairs and Tourist events a divine attraction in that Mediterranean Sea corner.

The beaches of Tunisia have that great advantage,longitude,width and an excellent quality of soft sands and due the absence of pollution a fantastic quality of blue waters,no gravel and the sands are soft as cotton.

Another special feature is that there are not barriers to reach them,they are generally very  accessible and the large offering a wide space with an excellent capacity is more than appreciated.

The name Ghar El Melh means cave of salt due the presence of saline,the inhabited village is located approximately 4,5 kilometres of the coast developed in that place since the times when the local coastline was infested by pirates and the population moved towards the immediate interior.

 Despite the beauty of that iconic beach and a magnificent coastal stretch that town started late to be a tourist destination and it never reached the levels of the famed Sousse,Djerba,Hammamet or also of the nearest Ghammart.

The main local activities have always been fishing and agriculture with a relevant presence of poultry and sheep farmers.Some decades ago more than half of the population was linked to those activities,today is the fishing one of the major sources of the town thanks also the development of the new port.

Fishing reached since the 90s a relevant level with a further enlargement of the harbour which can host almost 250 boats and for a town of that size and population is of course a sort of record taking in consideration that over 1800 people are dedicated to that activity.

The most important and profitable place to fish is the lagoon,corresponding to the old harbour which  is formed by a maritime hollow area situated between the promontory of Raf Raf to the north and the plains of El Kelaat Andalous to the south close to the nearby village of Aousja.

In that point was developed a sort of extra radius agglomeration with a road which leads up to the outskirts of Tunisi in proximity of Ariana practically not far from the entrance of the national road which leads to La Marsa and La Charguia one of the first access to Halq Al Wadi,the port of the capital well known also with the name La Goulette.

The history of Ghar El Melh is very old and also very interesting simply for the chronological events which gave every time despite its small size a very cosmopolitan aspect.

The first settlers were the Phoenicians who landed on that coast occupying that wide and wonderful gulf.That ancient civilisation well known to have great sailors,craftsmen and famous for their devotion to the manufacture of objects and the trade of the purple.

Those settlers founded several towns in Tunisia,one of them was Ghar El Melh and those colonists  developed an important harbour,establishing  a relevant emporium transforming that settlement in a superb maritime cross point commerce between east and west from Lebanon to the Iberian Peninsula.

The town was known since the Carthaginian and Roman times as Rusucmona originally built in the interior and its port was called Utica,an ancient settlement not far the river Medjerda, approximately at 33,0 kilometres north of the the ancient and famous Carthage.

 Utica in that period was probably one of the most important harbours in the entire Maghreb area and always included in the major routes reaching the islands of Malta,Sicily,Tunis and passage by merchants coming from the Middle East.

That place became soon a stronghold of the Carthaginians who continued to use the port as their predecessors until the Punic wars when that powerful city fell after those famous events against the Imperial Rome.

The former town was previously attacked several times by the Greeks of Sicily but never fell in Hellenic hands.

The Roman conquest privileged Carthage in all the main activities elevating as Capital of the province of Africa but the Roman Emperor populated the current Ghar El Mehl with Greeks colonists who developed in a sort of total autonomy relevant activities such as trade with the motherland and the first basis of an active fishing organisation.

The decline of the former Rusucmona and Utica started in the 3rd century when the territory was considered less important than others for the development of new routes of commerce.

The fate of the town in its historical stages after the fall of the Roman Empire was a total lack of defence and often easy to sack by Berber pirates who continued to attack the local coasts before the advent of the Byzantines protagonists of several battles and disputes with those invaders.

 In the 6th century and later,until the occupation of the Vandals who totally sacked the town,The golden ages of Ghar El Mehl ended and the town became a stronghold of Saracen pirates,the locals escaped from such dangerous and unsafe place and they mainly moved in the interior  in proximity of Aousja.

The Moorish occupation of the entire Maghreb gave that place for a long period peace but in the meantime under those rulers were developed other major ports and the former Rusucmona was pretty excluded by the main trades in the Mediterranean. .

It is in the 16th century when Spain new Maritime power conquered that land and Ghar El Melh had a sort of renaissance.

The King Charles V ordered to build a fortress in the year 1534 despite that fortress had a short life,approximately 120 years,when the English Navy led by the Admiral Robert Blake attacked and destroyed the Spanish fortress.

It was the famous period of the Anglo-Spanish War when England for the trade domain in the Mediterranean attacked and destroyed many Spanish fortresses along the Maghreb coastline in Morocco and also Tunisia.Including the British fleet attacked and sank some Iberian galleons carrying gold and valuables in the port of Cadiz and in the Canary Islands.

After the devastation of that fort,Ghar El Melh came back to be a base for pirates and buccaneers once again.Former English soldiers,Maltese and and Saracen corsairs occupied the town which lived period of terror and several disputes within those new inhabitants.

Some years later the powerful Ottoman Empire troops landed on those Tunisian coasts leaded by Usta Mourad,a Dey of the Turkish Empire.

A Dey in that period was a figure who covered one the most high military position in the Empire with also important charges related to political issues too.

Some Ottoman Imperial dynasties suppressed the symbol of the Dey in several occasions due possible political reversals,they were generally figures very charismatic,always able to create plots,for many Turkish Pacha the increase of prestige of a Dey often resulted as a very inconvenient  situation despite their military successes.

The Dey Usta Mourad was an important character for the development of the town,thanks his cosmopolitan background.He was a Levantin Turkish General with Genoese father and Turkish mother.

That governor had several contacts with the Marine Republics of Genoa and Pisa and including he met several times Spanish Ambassadors,an important and distinguished figure in that time.

That man repopulated Ghar El Melh with Moorish Andalusian people expelled from Spain by King Felipe III  after the reforms in the 17th century in the Iberian country.

The town had a sort of architectonic renaissance with several new small houses with patios and small areas cultivated by the new settlers and the construction of several wells for the collection of water suitable for the irrigation of the territory.

The farmers started to develop a very organised agriculture,they were in major part from Andalusia and it is for that the nearest area south of Ghar El Mehl is called Kelaat El Andalus.

The area became in a short time acquired a very cosmopolitan aspect with a good number of Turkish and Levantine colonies who came to establish trades and commercial activities, Berber people coming from the interior of the country and those former Arab-Andalusian established in that Tunisian town.

During that period the pirates continued to be an insidious enemy also due the new flourishing period under Ottoman rule and the town was attacked several times

The Turkish influence was very important for the construction of the fortress which can be seen today.In the 19th century.The Pacha Ahmed El Bey decided to build a new defencive system around the town including a military port and redeveloping the town with other colonies of people coming from Malta, France and Sicily.

Ghar el Melh increased furthermore that cosmopolitan image obtained in the previous centuries with new activities and an improvement about trade and fishing.

The French colony was in majority formed by artisans and people engaged in small factories.The Maltese were the most numerous colony mainly traders,some of them started smuggling activities while the Sicilians were mainly experienced fishermen,sailors who devoted themselves to teach the local, fishing,with new modern techniques and especially in high sea an activity until then never been practised by locals.

 In the 19th century when Tunisia became in the year 1881 a French protectorate,the situation radically changed.France started a strong and intense fight against smuggling with severe customs controls.

Many Maltese and Sicilians settlers did not accept to take the Tunisian nationality and returned to their respective countries.The town remained with those descendants of the Moorish Andalusian settlers and the town was repopulated with new French colonies and the majority ethnicity was represented by local Berbers.

The history of Ghar El Mehl continued parallel to that of the country and in the year 1956 with the independence of Tunisia followed the country's history until today.That is in short the history of Ghar El Melh,there are many histories very interesting in Tunisia for the several events had this country.

The centre of the town is mainly developed along Avenue Bourguiba,approximately 5,5 kilometres away from the beach.

The reason is that the proximity of the river Mejerba to the port did not give the opportunity to develop an urban arrangement due the high volume of water concentrated in that area which often needed to be drained.

The works to improve the quality of the old port in the lagoon started in the late 19th century but many attempts failed.

In the 70s after several studies and projects came the solution with the construction of a new harbour and a strong dam protecting the Kelaat El Andaluus docks,the old port is still used anyway for fishing.

The coastline of the town is almost 7,0 kilometres long starting from the headland of Cap Sidi Ali Mekki running until the limit of the harbour.

The major part of the population lives in the area around Avenue Bourguiba while the rest mainly lives in the interior in the rural areas dedicated to the agriculture in Zouaouine and Bejou.

Ghar El Melh lagoon is one of the local attractions,not only because it was the old port was situated.The perimeter of that area is over 20,0 kilometres connected by a small canal which flows in the Mediterranean sea south of the small forest of Rafraf situated in proximity of a sharp promontory.

That place is particularly suitable for the fishing of sea bass,mullet and also heel the latter loves to live at determinate temperature and found in those waters the right natural habitat.Almost a quarter of the total fish caught per year in that town comes from that saltwater lagoon.

In the southern side of the local coast there are a couple of other small salt ponds almost adjacent to the lagoon.Some years ago that natural space was declared of particular International Interest for the biodiversity and humid area particularly suitable for the study of zoologists specialising in fish species.

One of the historical highlights of Ghar El Nehl is the ancient Turkish Arsenal called El Kishla you can see in the old port and dating back the late 17th century.

It was developed in a period in which it was the most organised military structures of the entire country and the Ottoman Bey Mourad III ordered to build a long low building with vaulted arches hosting 17 galleries on the back of the port, under its arcades.

They were used as workshops,mainly blacksmiths,ceramic handcrafts,small shops,other galleries were used for shipyards,there was also a small Chapel for religious rites.

In addition there were two prisons one for the pirates captured during the attacks,another one for rebels and slaves while other galleries were dedicated to hosts the guards.The rest was mainly occupied by the arsenal which was since the beginning the main purpose of that site.

That place was a sort of little town in the town,that long building under the hill of Djebel Nadour was restored in the 80s after a long period of decline and abandon and today shows you perfectly how was organised an Ottoman multi purpose construction.

A replica of others similar constructions were erected in that period in the motherland and in some territories under Turkish rule in the 17th century.

Borj Lazarit is the fortress you can see in proximity of the entrance of the town.Built externally to a wide paved cobblestone area,it has two large ditches on its sides and a narrow central passage flanked by low walls which leads to the Bab the central doorway.

That gate has an arcade reminiscent to a Mirhab, that curved section supported by two side stoned columns which form a sort of tiny portico.The central facade is slightly more of the higher with strong walls which have a series of curved and rectangular windows in the lower part of the building.

Some narrow windows and vents were placed at the top.Erected in 1659 by the Ottoman Bey Pacha Al Hammoud and that fortress is pretty well conserved and it was used until the 19th century as an Al Karraka,a prison.

Borj Al Wistani is another Ottoman fortress,older than the previous,the construction of that fortress is dated 1640.The architectonic style is in part similar to the other,with a central passage flanked by two low walls and ditches on both sides.

The arcade is supported by two columns with capitals and the walls are very similar to the walls of the Alcazar of Seville you can admire flanking in the Andalusian city in the famous Barrio de Santa Cruz.

The upper section of the walls was built with battlements with sharp and pointed terminals in typically  Moorish-Andalusian and you can see the hand and style of the architect who built the fortress was an Andalusian-Moorish called Al Hadj Jamiir Al Andaluus Al Ghamati.

That man was of  those immigrants from Andalusia who came in Ghar El Mehl in the 17th century. As the Borj Lazarit also this fortress was used as prison apart the defencive purposes.

The third fortress called Borj Al Loutani was built in the same period of Borj Lazarit,lower than the others,it is situated on the road not far from the old harbour.

The perimeter consists in low strong walls on the sides and presents crenellated towers on its corners.The entrance consists in an arched doorway located between a tower and a wing which housed the guardhouse.
That Borj was used as base of a military division of artillery and just like the others as a prison.

All those fortresses with the arsenal El Kishla were declared Cultural and Historic Patrimony of Tunisia since the year 1922.

During the period of the French protectorate and also some years after the Tunisian Independence,those buildings were used as prison until the year 1964.In that year the President Bourguida in a meeting with his ministers decided to abolish those prisons and from there started a process of restoration which gave excellent results.

In the town you can see a low white building surrounded by a garden with a tower,a low Minaret with the same colour and it is the Hotel de Ville,the Town hall.Built on a rectangular plan with a blue arched doorway and windows on both side and completed by stoned step behind the walls which leads to the entrance.

 The Mosque of Ghar El Mehl reflects of the typical Tunisian architecture using the white as predominant colour but very different as style than the most important Tunisian Muslim Temples.

Some of the most famous Mosques in the country as  Jemaa Ez Zitouna oe Jemaa Al Qayrawan which used in many detailed elements of the Andalusian and Mudejar styles,with zelij and sebka decorations daughters of the historical dynasties Nasrid,Almohad and Almoravib.

In that case Jemaa Ghar El Mehl that local Mosque has a very sober style and it consists in a large rectangular plan,the Minaret tower was erected on a quadrangular square and it is attached to a side of the boundary wall.

In the upper section there some arched windows,a crenellated perimeter with an additional turret within a quadrangular space arranged on three blocks with a conical roof as terminal.The central body of that Mosque is behind the Minaret arranged on a rectangular plan with low walls and surmounted by domes.

 Sidi Ali El Mekki is the Zaouia the sacred tomb of the Holy Man Said Ali El Mekki who is buried there and that figure was one of the most prominent religious character in the town.

The Zaouia in the Muslim countries has a relevant value as pilgrimage destination and that tomb located on the hill of Al Djebal Edmina is often visited by people devoted to that man and that white structure is 
 still used today for some religious rites.

That Zaouia apart the important religious value,is a historic patrimony of the country and the municipality of Ghar El Melh gave the name of the Holy Man to its beach.During the 2nd World War,that construction was refuge of many locals who escaped in the interior of that mausoleum due a battle in proximity of the village between German and Anglo-American troops.

In Ghar El Melh there are splendid panoramic view points for all photography lovers.In proximity of the Cap Raffaf and its forest there is a splendid place to take photos with an ample and spectacular view of the entire wonderful gulf of Tunis.

From that point you can see the coastal promontory of La Marsa over La Goulette,the bay of the capital and the scenic and wide headland of Hal Haouaria while in opposite direction towards north you can admire a beautiful straight stretch of coast running under on of the capes of the other Gulf of Bizerte.

Apart the mentioned the beach Plage Sidi Ali Mekki all the local coastline also leading towards Cap Zebib at north is a festival of sparkling blue waters.

You can also stop also in proximity of Sounine that place is just some kilometres north of Ghar El Mehl and there is situated a small sharp promontory with the chance to have a very lovely panoramic view towards another small gulf.
 
 Over the coastline and walking along the hill,this place is north of the old port,the Cap Sidi Ali El Mekki,Cap Farina which is another great place to enjoy the spectacular Mediterranean views of that corner of Tunisia.

In July Ghar El Melh hosts an important event dedicated to the Photography,after some editions that meeting dedicated to that activity has reached a relevant level,with professional photographers coming from France,Italy,Germany,other countries including America and from all Tunisia.

The highlight is the captivating place of the exhibition,the works are displayed in the old fortresses and also the beach Sidi Ali El Mekki is protagonist at evening in the event.

Ghar El Melh is a great destination,you can find several hotels in the area of Bizerte and reaching that splendid historical town in a very short time.

If you want to enjoy a piece of history of Tunisia and enjoying its wonderful beach Sidi Ali El Mekki with its sparkling blue waters and  a superb view of wonderful gulf that place is very special to discover and enjoy the secular history and natural beauty of a corner of fascinating Maghreb.

Francesco Mari

www.tourismtunisia.com