Gràcia-Barcelona | Marvellous Quarter, Artistic Cradle of Creativity.


Gràcia is a stupendous district of Barcelona, a marvellous quarter artistic cradle of creativity, a place so easy to appreciate and love at first sight for its characterful profile extremely rich of attractions and unique in its kind for all what it greatly offers all around its boundaries thanks to the presence of a notable historic and cultural patrimony.

The second Iberian city is undoubtedly one the most captivating and trendy destinations in Europe and in the world and it is not a case that in the last decades the capital of Catalonia is always and constantly  present in the Top 10 cities list to visit according to statistics and preferences, often selected by a multitude of tourists eternally attracted to admire its great and  outstanding beauty.

Not many metropolis in the globe offer a magnificent cultural and historic patrimony so diversified packed by relevant historic monuments and buildings elevated in different architectural styles as that Catalan centre boasts with a stunning artistic mosaic ranging from Medieval  Gothic, Neoclassic, Modernism, Art Deco  and including relevant Roman rests.

Definitely a stunning mix of superb movements and also linked to relevant civilisations and different philophies which gave that city an unique, superb and very distinctive image next to a captivating appeal which continues and will continue to conquer a myriad of visitors.

The Ciutad Condal, the city of the Counts as it is called for the successions of nobles with that aristocratic title created since the times of Charlemagne in 801 with the Carolingian dynasties which characterised centuries of great history bathed by the Mediterranean and embraced by the hilly Sierra Collserola is situated between two rivers the Lllobegrat and the Besos and undoubtedly also those territorial features give it a very special appeal.

Eleventh centre in the continent for population ,Barcelona is lively, vibrant, modern but at the same time bohemian, rich of local folklore classy, passionate, calm and inspiring and all those descriptive adjectives are present in all its neighbourhoods such as Eixample , Ciutat Vella Vella, Sants-Montjuic, Les Corts, Sant Gervasi-Sarriá, Sant Marti,Sant Andreu,  Horta Guinardó and Gràcia, each boasting a strong identity, indisputable profile and marked spirit, all them as special is that city.

If there is one without comparison within those boroughs very different for its historic stages, image, lifestyle and an diversified essence, the choice is pretty easy and the answer is undoubtedly Gràcia.

That distinguished metropolitan area identifies a very marked spirit of creativity, a corner of the city in which many people developed and continue to develop new trendy ideas and  expressions in which art, cultural activities, folklore, music, traditions and costumes all together found the perfect habitat coexisting in harmony in the past and in the present with extreme ease and where the new trends did steal protagonism to the rooted old creations.

The district stretches from north to south around the famous square Plaça de Lesseps  to the lively avenue Avinguda Princep d'Astúries and from west to east with the important boulevard Travessera de Dalt  and one of its a historic streets called Carrer de Córcega.

Gràcia is highly attractive at first sight and every visitor is immediately captured by a sort  of magic and suggestive aura all around its environment.There is in that urban corner  something of extremely special in its boundaries transmitting  a unique desire to discover and learn more and often once returned home you want to come back there because you think it was so great and there was much more to see and learn.

In the mind of the true tourist and traveller who visited that Barcelona district always remains something left there as a kind of nostalgia for what that place represents as a very deep feeling to have forgotten something or a simple thought saying a see you soon because I will you meet you once again.

That captivating borough is certainly one of those sites transmitting that and many are the reasons, its lively atmosphere, a strong bohemian and artistic identity ,an image of a town inside a city, in many cases also a neighbourhood apart as in a distinct planet, very different than the others and it is extremely exciting including looking for a why but once knew the historic aspects which created all that your questions will have an answer.

Historically Gràcia was developed at the junction of two former ancient Roman roads which still exists in modern urban key with different names corresponding to Travessera de Gràcia and Major de Gràcia which during the times of Roman Empire were important hallways linking the Ciutat Vella, the old city to the outskirts of the current urban extra radius.

That place was in those far times already an important transit of commerce and trade as an obliged gate to come in the beating heart of Barcelona and already a relevant site with an active social and cultural life opening its doors to many people of a varied provenance.

In a more recent eras that district  was well known to be a popular agricultural centre which supplied fruit,vegetables and milk to several markets of the city with a considerable growth in the 19th century when a small industrial area was created there and also in that case animated by a lot of people coming and going.

The current quarter was originally a village near the city, an independent municipality until 1897 with its 63,000 inhabitants extremely proud to be a solid community which had its progress and development created by itself  but the development and the expansion of the Catalan Capital during the late 19th century with new urban plans integrated Gracia in the Great Barcelona and automatically in its municipal administration.

Absorbed in the innovative metropolitan grid of  the city in occasion of the the famous Plan Cerdá who designed in that period the famed elegant and stylish Paseo de Gracia,that famous avenue with stunning and iconic buildings erected in Modernism style landmarks of that artistic movement, the former town of Gràcia in that large  project of enlargement and reform was incorporated in the second centre of the Iberian Peninsula to give a more European and International dimension and image.

The addition of new lands along the old country road was a considerable arrangement in which the city changed face showing a new aspect also in size ,more metropolis with a major territorial extra radius integrated in a huge urban reality.
 
Despite all that the current neighbourhood never ceased to claim its pride linked to its independent past and its to be highly distinct continuing to show its strong identity.

There were in the past some years after the integration of Gràcia, peculiar and curious reactions of the inhabitants born and bred there or strongy identified and rooted with that former town and they often said to foreign people or visitors :" I am not from Barcelona,I am from Gràcia".
  
All that was for someone unusual because other new areas entered in Barcelona  administration accepted with pleasure to be part of a big city which was increasing is relevance at national scale.

That kind of nostalgic sentiment linked to be proud as part of something historically relevant is very similar to a case of another city in Spain, Seville, in the famous district of Triana in which the inhabitants said or still say the same naturally in another cultural reality and at a different latitude.

A special way to discover that area is simply walking with enthusiasm and conviction you are exploring a great place full of historic and cultural attractions and doing that it is to come inside the soul of that special reality living  metre by metre the unique incomparable atmosphere of that marvellous quarter.

You will immediately notice strolling its streets and through the square Plaça Rius i Taulet but also stopping for a while in another one called Plaça de la Virreina in which is situated the Parish of St. Joan that all there is immediately attractive and that is as a sort of introduction or appetiser to have a first idea starting to learn what is really that stunning Barcelona district.

That neighbourhood inhabited by artists and bohemian figures had and has its special and peculiar characterful image also reflected in the names of many of its streets called Libertad, Liberty, Fraternidad, Fraternity Egalidad ,Equality, Legalidad Legality and Plaça John Lennon among others.
 
A touch of cultural inspiration closely linked to that traditional motto of France which found its origin in the French Revolution between 1789 and 1799 and also that, it is an aspect which makes Gràcia unique and different in its kind.

Those details immediately characterise that place and that is a clear and evident signal since the beginning during your visit that you are in a Barri, a district which has little in common with others.

In the course of its history the current neighbourhood was always populated by several different kinds men of arts and those new inhabitants brought their new waves and concepts linked to cultural avant-garde movements and also for that it became an artistic cradle of creativity  thanks to an endless lists of prominent figures linked to music and art born there or closely related to that environment.

Something is partially related to the urban proximity of the famous Eixample, a famed district frequently highlighted by flows of new philosophies and desire to change mainly linked to architecture and applied arts highlighted in a period in which Barcelona was integrally mutating its profile becoming a relevant centre and meeting point of many characters related to the highest cultural spheres and the advent of the notorious Modernism.

Those concepts were transmitted in part to the nearest Gràcia which despite that took other resorces not just architecture but also painting, literature, entertainment, folklore and social life and all that is extremely visible with the presence of cultural centres,art galleries painters and Post modernist architects studios, famed theatres as the Teatre Lliure the famous Cinema Verdi and much more.

All that is like that neighbourhood wanted to be a mine of activities not tired to show its incessant desire to be protagonist and another detail is the lively  Plaça del Sol which has been overrun in recent years of great restaurants offering the most trendy Fusion culinary art highlighted by an eclectic and creative Nouvelle Cuisine with talented chefs who brought new gourmet waves linking the finest European gastronomy to exotic ethnic flavours.

Probably or without probably those famous artistic and bohemian influences also strongly entered in the gastronomic panorama and that is another aspect which will give you another date more of the distinct profile of that site of Barcelona.

You can notice in Gràcia another relevant detail how the old accepted the new, how that to be proud and very close to the former local rooted traditions has embraced the development of the new trendy era.

Definitely a very tolerant way of perfect and harmonious coexistence very similar in many aspects to two other European districts such as Schwabing in Munich-Germany and Brera in Milan-Italy, different realities,distinct cities but with the same concepts in which the old does not delete the new and viceversa despite to make comparisons is never easy.(I wrote posts of both in the case you are interested)

In Gràcia you can see all that starting from its architecture, in which a splendid Modernism building is flanked by a fine retro construction hosting an old bookstore and similar cases are present in Brera with luxury modern boutique established in a portico or courtyard of a 18th century Milanese palace or in the Bavarian capital in Schwabing close to a building erected in a magnificent Jugendstil style you will notice a Renaissance or Baroque building hosting in its ground floor a traditional tavern established in the 19th century.

All those mixt of architectonic styles,varied gastronomic essences, the traditional combined to the exotic,modern contemporary stylish shops close to old bars, grocery stores next to a new modern office,all together live together give Gràcia a very unique and special appealing image so variegated and diversified.

Including regarding music you can meet there  folk street singers performing ad often in a corner just a few metres away listening a rock guitar &voice and also trendy music clubs close to old theatres and all that is Gràcia in all its captivating charm and appeal.

Plaça del Sol is the Gràcia lively core where all around its perimeter  you can see all that,  the square was arranged in 1840 and it was an air raid shelter during the civil war. Its name means Square of the Sun deriving from a sculpture consisting in the Astrolabi, a sundial with the twelve zodiac signs designed by Joaquim Camps.

 It is certainly one of its more known and busiest places of the neighbourhood, you will find there several bars, an ideal place for a snack accompanied by a cool drink, delicious tapas, ideal terraces to sit having a coffee and an usual meeting point of locals and artists.


The emblematic monument  of Gràcia is the clock tower which stands in the middle of Plaça de la Vila in  which there was once the old Town Hall when Gràcia lived its ages as independent municipality. Also for that it remained a beloved place by locals representing in its kind an icon of the quarter for its historic value.

The most attractive cultural and tourist attraction in the district is undoubtedly the famous Park Güell well known worldwide to contain the outstanding works by the master Antoni Gaudi, that prominent architect who wrote unforgettable  pages of the history of the Modernism and in his kind also changed the architectural aesthetic image of the Capital of Catalonia.

Park Guell was designed by that fantastic Catalan artist and it is the framework where the house-museum was elevated as residence in which that iconic figure lived for 20 years.
with the collaboration of   the architect Francesc Berenguer one of his friends, colleagues and disciples.

That superb space is a singular and outstanding masterpiece which only the artistic genius of Antoni Gaudi in his double version of landscaper and architect could make using many of its favourite materials such as ceramic, tiles ,iron, stone and others and what is simply superb is the perfect harmony in that unique creation.

That complex was a sort of  signal of Gaudí's great creative freedom which in its kind represents organic forms of nature in a sort of novel in his original way combined with his immense talent. Definitely a magnificent inspiration with an outstanding final result of his great imagination.

In its 15,0 hectares of nature that park offers the visitor the opportunity to admire the great landscapes in which the sculptures and the benches are arranged with a stunning shape of the pedestrian passages and the buildings and looking all around you will breathe a sort of magic atmosphere.

Great highlights are the impressive Hispóstila  a room highlighted by 86 impressive columns,the famous much photographed dragon of the main staircase,the undulating bank in the great square designed by the architect Josep Maria Jujol and the delirious but at the same time triumphant pavilions entrance. Stoned viaducts which perfectly blend in total harmony with the natural surroundings and the Calvary which presides at the top. Barcelona's Parc Guell is one of the most impressive works by Gaudi, declared UNESCO World Heritage Artistic Site and furthermore from there you can appreciate and enjoy a fantastic view of the city.


You can continue along the most important urban artery of the borough, Travessera de Gràcia and the central section of that road is the outline of a notorious medieval hallway originally called Via Francisca documented and recorded in 1057 while its current name was adopted in 1932.

In 1867 it was simply  known with the name Travessera with spelling more and no reference to the neighbourhood because Gràcia was in that period an independent town and when the current district was incorporated in the city was taken the decision to call it with the current denomination.

It is nowadays a very busy road which begins in Plaça Francesc Macia,a busting square which is the gateway to the famous district of the Eixample and the other of  Sarria-Sant Gervasi.


That strategic boulevard ends in the street  Carrer Cartagena in the pleasant quarter Horta-Guinardó and in the case you want to admire another landmark of Barcelona,you will face there the famous Hospital de Sant Pau, a further masterpiece of Modernism art by another eminent exponent of that movement : Lluis Domenech i Muntaner.

Antoni Gaudí left in the neighbourhood another of his masterpieces the magnificent  Casa Vicens situated  in Carrer de les Carolines which is one of the shining jewels present in the quarter and close to Plaça Lesseps.

That building is also pretty famous because it was one of the first distinctive great works by the genius from Reus.It is a unique ,sublime construction highlighted by a set of turrets and decorated with mosaics in Andalusian Mudejar style, that kind of art  inherited by the Moors and extremely rooted in Seville and its province.

That eclectic artist was able to match that kind of architecture with the magnificent Modernism Catalan style and that perfect fusion developed in total  harmony is a true outstanding hymn to the talent of that character who was able to link two styles so far and  different for lines, philosophy, geometry, materials, projections and outlines.

One of the major picturesque and lively markets of Barcelona is situated in Gràcia and it is the famous Mercat de l'Abaceria Central with a long history to narrate. Established in 1892  for many people and especially for the locals it is much more genuine and less artificial than the famed and celebrated Mercat de la Boqueria located in the area of the Ramblas pretty close to Plaza Catalunya. 

That word original is due to its absolute authenticity and you can breathe there the air of its past. noisy, eternally busting, plenty of vendors, the stalls are positioned in the same places as a long time ago because the current sellers continued the activity of the predecessors generation by generation without the needs to mutate a sort of local emblem.

A captivating feature is the very special atmosphere of familiarity and the stalls are always packed by fresh fruit, every kind of vegetables and furthermore you can also find meat and fish.

In something it could be compared to the famous Monastiraki market in Athens for all  kinds of products displayed in a very lively environment, frequented by locals and very curious tourists. A visit of that coloured place is a mandatory simply to enjoy the scene and discovering furthermore what is Gràcia also in that vibrant and lively reality.

The Església de Mare de Deu del Coll, the Church of Our Lady of the hill is  located in the area of Coll and deservea a visit for its historic value.Erected in a beautiful Romanesque style in the 11th century it  preserves the original central body and the bell tower developed during its former construction in the Middle Ages while the other architectural elements visible today were added in the  20th century after a complete restoration to conserve that very important religious monument patrimony of the city.

Worth a stop during your visit at Jaume Fuster Library another highlight of Gràcia with its 5026,0 square metres it was designed by the architect Josep Llinás Carmona. It is one of the largest and most modern building of Barcelona and it was established in that place after the demolition of an unused garage.

The new building reorders much of the front north of the busy Plaça Lesseps with the recovery of the geometric shape which can be identified from the green channel descending from the foothills of  the Collserola and affecting the northern front of the square reincorporating back into the urban structure.

That building also has a prestigious value because it  was winner of  an important award,the Architectural FAD 2006 one of the most relevant and famed titles regarding architecture in the entire Country.

Originally Gràcia was characterised to be a working class district with some small factories and craftsmen and  those traditions continue retaining the neighbourhood very loyal to its cultural institutions and professions.

Apart that the quarter has kept intact its  recreational and artistic activities jeaulously conserved and  the bohemian soul never lost its roots during its history but it added new realities as the opening of new restaurants ,clubs, next to the locals came different immigrants of different provenance who added new colours and also a more cosmopolitan aspect.

You can see new residents, including the Roma community some Dutch painters, American students,North African vendors and Gypsies flamenco artists in a vibrant atmosphere that district offers in its multicultural and social daily life, all coexists and also that is another attraction of that special site.

 The neighbourhood with its liberal spirit in its lively clubs all year is also very popular for its nightlife but it is August the "Gran "Fiesta" the top of the celebrations of that quarter when in the district takes place the Festa Major a lively and colourful street festival.

A considerable number of artists,actors,musicians, photographers and designers contribute to its animated and bustling image with  its narrow streets highlighted by the flowered balconies of its buildings and packed by a multitude of people.In those times the captivating Gràcia erupts all its passion and energy in an unforgettable show simply unique in its kind.

Festa Major is celebrated as an annual event and it consists adorning all the local arteries and held many activities as outdoor concerts.That marvellous quarter reflects its spirit of artistic cradle characterised by an explosion of enthusiasm and creativity and in occasion of that important appointment many people start to prepare the most suggestive scenery.

Every corner of the urban environment has a theme and every street is decorated and inspired by a different theme each year.T here are many examples, as one depicting Rock & Roll with Elvis Presley as icon with the city of Memphis, other subjects are linked the underwater world or the Far East or including the school with a road adorned by giant notebooks and pencils.

There is always in the locals the desire to prepare that event with a great imagination and much more improvisation because many works are made in the last days before the beginning of the event.

 Every year appear new bizarre and extravagant decorations using objects made by special items using bottles, glasses ,old furniture, plastic cups ,cardboard, painted pieces of iron, anything out of the garbage and recycling to achieve something to create an original image and much more all that  it is undoubtedly economic and very creative.


Another highlight is the presence of the most traditional folklore represented by dancers of Sardana performing that traditional and typical dance of Catalonia and singers. Dancing and music in the squares and in  streets also create a great atmosphere with several series of events with the famous Cercavila de Cultura Popular ,Diada Castelera and Correfoc.

The first is undoubtedly a great highlight consisting in a parade with important figures of the popular local culture as the gegants represented by giant puppets, the trabucaires who are medieval bandits,t he castles and the devils

Cercavila is  usually celebrated at the intersection of the streets Gran de Gràcia and  Santa Agata and going through the entire neighbourhood up to the square Plaça de la Vila the centre of all the traditional activities.

There you can also enjoy a great local performance by castellers groups, true masters of human towers, another special attraction. The program of that event is really intense and vibrant accompanied by music which includes,Jazz, Swing, Tango, Charleston, Flamenco,  and Catalan folk music exhibitions. Definitely it is an event for all people and for every taste transforming that place in something absolutely spectacular.

That bohemian neighbourhood apart the magnificent works left by the genius Gaudí is also the birthplace of other famous artists.

Historically Gràcia has produced figures who influenced the popular culture and of course they contributed to impart a distinctive and strong character of that area of Barcelona.

It is enough to mention Antonio Gonzalez nicknamed El Pescailla,a figure born and bred in the street Carrer Fraternidad and considered the founder of  the Catalan Rumba and well known because he married the unforgettable and great Gypsy singer Lola Flores.

Other celebrated characters were born in that district such  as Sabor de Gracia, a famous Gypsy group performing Catalan Rumba and  the famous Moncho who real name is Calabuch  Ramon Batista well known artist considered the pioneer and the king of the Spanish Gypsy Bolero.

Moncho was born in Gràcia district son of a family of Catalan gypsies, he was traditionally fond of Flamenco but he learnt to sing Catalan rumba beat and surrounded by artists like Peret and Antonio Gonzalez El Pescailla he started to have success and fame with a popularity which reached all the country.

The famous film-maker Pedro Almodovar for artistic affinity and for what represents that place for him is a declared lover of that  neighbourhood which also inspired another director as Ventura Pons who produced the famous movie Any de Gracia starring some famous Catalan artists such as Rosa Maria Sarda, Oriol Pla, Santi Millán and Núria Feliu among others.

That famous comedy was filmed in the quarter and it tells of a story of a young rebel man who came to live in that area looking for new opportunities .He rented a room in Gràcia where he met an elderly and bitter lady and between them started a love story.

Thanks to that varied and interesting social,artistic and cosmopolitan life,  the district also offers an excellent range of restaurants, bars and clubs of quality,some affordable and a very lively nightlife.

There are several options, naturally all is personal depending of the tastes and what you want to do. Some ideas could be to go to Café del Sol enjoying an aperitif, since some years ago it became a classic meeting point for residents but in the last decades in a short time also frequented by new visitors who started to love the atmosphere of that place.

Located in the busy Plaza de Sol is an excellent place for appetisers and snacks at noon transformed in a quiet space for a coffee while at night it becomes a bohemian cocktail bar with different kinds of music.

To enjoy a dinner there are some trendy locals and one of them is Botafumeiro which is  one of the most famous seafood restaurants in the city also known for serving meals to famous customers.

Eldorado could be a great choice to continue the evening with its  terrace-bar and club and for the night inside the room it becomes one of the best club of the neighbourhood

.Another place is Woody Bar a lively Bar-Club to end the night in that animated Barcelona corner.The walls of that establishment are filled by pictures of Hollywood actors an also celebrated  Jazz musicians. It is generally frequented by artists and bohemian figures and it offers good cocktails and music in a very lively environment.
You can reach Gràcia at FCG Railway Estació de Gracia ,Gracia Station and  that  neighbourhood is down Paseo de Gracia and close to Parc Güell.I added some links below with some suggested accommodations if you want to stay in its proximity and you are planning a future trip to that Barcelona.

That unique site is an iconic corner of a magnificent city. It is a pleasure to know its identity and old traditions mixed with an always intense new artistic life. For sure in a simple and relaxing walk in its lively streets you will remember that cultural, special,marvellous quarter, artistic cradle of creativity in that wonderful scenery called Barcelona which will probably remain alive in your memories forever.
.

Francesco Mari


Recommended Hotels and Accommodations in Gràcia or in proximity of the district.(in the case you want an accommodation in that area of Barcelona)


Hotel Casa Fuster 
Hotel Ronda Lesseps
Espais Blaus Apartments
Gracia Bas Apartments 
Bcnstop Apartments 

Useful links





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