Skadarlija | Intriguing Belgrade 500,0 Metres Street Reminiscent Montmartre.

Skadarlija is a historic, bohemian downtown marvel of the captivating Capital of Serbia, an intriguing Belgrade 500,0 metres street reminiscent Montmartre because that very scenic urban hallway in the heart of Balkans highly resembles in many details, image and including spirit to that iconic borough of the stupendous French city despite it is situated at over 1700, 0 kilometres of distance from that charming Parisian district.

Located in a very appealing area of Stari Grad, the old city, of one of the most eclectic and captivating metropolis of Eastern Europe, that appealing cobbled artery since the beginning of its very suggestive history was compared to that emblematic, charismatic symbol of Paris corresponding to that famed, picturesque quarter in the charming 18th Arrondissement of the major centre of France immediately outside of Abbesses Tube Station well known  to be the highest point of the everlasting, fascinating Ville Lumière.

A marked similar feature is mainly highlighted by the presence of that inspiring pavé surface but with a common profile in many other details, both eternally lively, boasting a bustling environment next to a characterful, special bohemian atmosphere which always characterised their image.

That similarity is also closely related to an attractive, nostalgic scenery with romantic Belle Époque lanterns installed outside several establishments present along that charming artery emitting a soft light illuminating magically that cobblestoned surface lined by old taverns, stylish cafes, refined buildings elevated in the 19th century highlighting  the evenings and nights of the old fascinating Beograd, the white city as it says its name, spreading all its fascination in a distinctive place like that.

That incomparable environment could be main protagonist in renowned novels, fictions and literary works by Émile Zola or Victor Hugo who enchanted a multitude of readers describing in many of their masterpieces all the smallest details a significant setting very similar to that Belgrade icon reminding a corner of that charming Parisian area.

Skadarlija despite that shows with pride its true coquetry bohemian soul and spirit linked to its incomparable chronological stages accepting with honor that notable comparison offering every visitor the chance to breathe along its course that special, indisputable atmosphere which those two different places share despite the distance.

A walk there in the first hours of an early evening is more than suggested to understand all what that enchanting  marvel walkway transmits in all its splendour with  artificial illumination, highly radiant, encircled by something of extremely magic along its entire longitude.

As an attractive jump in a remote past that street surrounded by a sort of bewitching aura becomes furthermore enchanting than ever increasing in a while all its unmistakable charm listening in the background melodic sounds by a piano situated in a Bistro or performed by a street musician playing divinely a violin with notes dedicated to the Blue Danube, one of the superb waterways crossing that superb Slavic Capital.

Under a starry sky and thousands of scenic lights all around a visitor all that is simply Skadarlija in all its pure enchanting essence boasting a stylish architecture which also has strong similarities with that marvellous quarter of the City of light.

Including some special names as Le Petit Piaf, a notorious hospitality structure with that Francophone denomination is undoubtedly a significant detail increasing the links with that magnificent metropolis along the river Seine.

Notes of emblematic songs coming from its taverns and restaurants such as as La Vie en Rose, Bonjour Tristesse, Ne me Quitte Pas or Les Feuilles Mortes, all sublime melodies so close to the daily life, environment and spirit of that Parisian hill always highlighted by those magnificent marked musical masterpieces are others aspects which find a common denominator between those two sites.

All those similarities between that half kilometre of the major Serbian centre and that famed neighbourhood at the foot of the Basilique du Sacré-Coeur are immediately visible including in other several features you will notice in a while.

It is undoubtedly a great sensation to find those several pleasant coincidences but opening your eyes you will feel something of extremely special discovering how Belgrade is wonderful able with that artery to transmit feelings thinking to be along the iconic Rue Norvins which inspired indisputable artists as Charles Aznavour and Pierre-Auguste Renoir looking at that Parisian street full of charm eternally embraced by a suggestive atmosphere.  

That identical charm is alsovisible by the constant presence of several artists, painters, actors, musicians, singers highlighting as a colourful imprint that site as if they are permanent part of the setting since the beginning of the history of that charismatic street.

Skadarlija was originally well known with the name Skadarska or Skadarska Ulica denomination took by the current Shkodër, an Albanian town situated in proximity of the Montenegrin border once a Slavic stronghold.

People who visited that site found the same charm of some typical, bohemian districts you can find in different part of the world.

Apart the mentioned Montmartre some historians also compared that intriguing place, in my case I found many things in common with the highly inspiring quarter of Mala Strana in Prague, a comparison which matches in some points.

That so special borough of the Czech Capital apart some architectural, urban resemblances is closely linked to Skadarlija to have been in the past a meeting point of Slavic thinkers who started in the same way to frequent typical inns or cafes protagonists of an indisputable joie de vivre highlighted by literary and philosophic characters always ready to magnify a chat with their deepest inspirations.

Someone also approached that urban Serbian emblem to Shoreditch in London after the success of the famed Victorian Entertainment in the 19th and 20th centuries in the case of that British district, continuing with new artistic expressions always looking for innovative ideas and trends, in that case those two sites have created similar new generations of artists in identical periods with diverse cycles of remarkable success.

Including Brera that so famed artistic, notorious quarter of Milan is in something pretty similar for the common spirit to live the trendy present but in the meantime preserving with extreme respect the past.(I wrote a post about that Milanese district if you are interested)

That half kilometre of Belgrade could be compared also to Gracia, Barcelona for all what lives in harmony between new and old, both have many affinities which could run together as that detail to have been autonomous municipalities close to two big cities.(Also about that place I wrote a post if maybe you want to know something more)

Someone else also found connections flying on the other side of the Ocean with the charming district of  San Telmo in Buenos Aires for the constant presence of great street performers as it is usual in that corner of the Argentinian Capital and the same happens in Skadarlija.

 Continuing in a North American reality others noticed similarities with Greenwich Village, New York, an enchanting district of that marvellous city of the United States of America eternally animated by that desire to be eclectic, special and very different to other metropolitan areas.

All those comparisons could be just details or a deep research to look for in the soul of all those distinctive neighbourhoods something matching but that intriguing street has a lot to say in its way.

Skadarlija for a Belgrade citizen is inimitable with its strong identity which daily  since a long time ago shows its unique appeal remaining a shining landmark of that splendid city. 

Many people who heard something about that place often has thought or imagined that it was a big or medium neighbourhood or better a bit larger than that cobbled street of about 500, 0 metres in length.

Skadarska Ulica is simply that, an artery which was in the past an independent area adjacent to Stari Grad, the old city former beating heart of the ancient Sigindunum as the Romans called it in the 75 BC after that territorial conquest in the Balkans by the Imperial Rome led by Gaius Scribonius Curio, proconsul of Macedonia and tribune of the plebs in 90 BC.

Since 1952 that site lived five years of total autonomy before to be incorporated to that former old settlement once again. 

All that happened during a period of urban reforms to give Beograd a more distinctive image of metropolis with many changes which saw protagonist the development of a new marked, defined, urban setting which included all the monumental nucleus established in the old area in large part following the traces of the boudaries arose in the Middle Ages in a more significant arrangement.

Those mutations took place because some borders were not extremely  clear, in addition, in opinion of the governors of that time during the period of the Republic of Yugoslavia some areas had  a lack of distinctive identity over-shadowed by others boasting an extreme popularity while others were losing relevance and appeal.

All that was closely related to the most contemporary neighbourhoods of Belgrade facing the old core on the other shore of the Sava and Danube rivers as Novi Beograd, the new city and another nearest borough called Zemun, both becoming very quickly new huge municipal realities..
  
Those two young big districts which developed a lot in the last century represent nowadays the image and grid of the modern city while all the lands included north of the famous bridge Most Gazela until Kalemegdan Citadel close to Dunavska Ulica northwest of the famous square Trg Republike was considered the historic centre.

Since then Skadarlija was integrated in the old city without the risk to be an urban islet which could lose its identity year by year outside the boundaries of the monumental core of Belgrade.

Despite that new design  for many people including the locals that half kilometres never lost its charm, it has not equals in the entire municipal boundaries, a site to enjoy metre by metre and probably or without probably it is one of the most relevant attractions you can find In Stari Grad.

That emblematic hallway is always able in its kind to transmit to someone deepest inspirations, including bewitching others for that unmistakable, incomparable fascinating aura which constantly emanates along all its surface, it is not a case that it is constantly frequented by romantic couples and a photo in Skadarlija is also a symbol for many people after the celebration of a wedding.

That place is furthermore highlighted by some fountains as the iconic Sebilj which represents in their kinds an emblem of the local culture and in their proximity or downing the street you will notice the presence of musicians dressed in traditional costumes playing Serbian brass traditional folk music, or songs of Goran Bregović or his former band Bijelo Dugme enchanting with their melodies many people.

That splendid half kilometre in addition is greatly highlighted by the typical smells of distinctive gastronomic dishes such as the traditional, exquisite Sarma or Cevapcici coming from the local restaurants. 

Also all that is an essential mark, part of an extraordinary invisible frame next to other kinds of hidden, veiled secrets which fill all together a corner in a place which never lost its unquestionable charm. 

The history of Skadarlija more than captivating began in 1830 with the settlement of a colony of Gypsies who started to populate abandoned houses established in the outskirts of the old core of Belgrade close to the medieval walls in which that street was developed  close to the boulevard Cara Dušana and another important street called Francuska Ulica.

Due to the presence of those new inhabitants that site started to be called Okrug Ciganima, the Gipsy Quarter or Cigana Ulica, the Street of the Gypsies.

That artery had since 1854 a notable transformation, many derelict residences were demolished and in a very short time the numerous temporary Gypsy shelters were replaced by new brick and stone buildings which became the houses of many artisans, merchants and clerks.

Despite that the former name persisted until 1872 when it was called Skadarska Ulica, from the town of Skadar, the current Shkodër as previously mentioned, a former centre which was part the Serbian Kingdom since medieval times.

In that period many immigrants of different countries of the Balkans reached a city pretty famous as Beograd offering more chances than living in the remote countryside who started to populate that street which became a sort of very cosmopolitan environment, times in which that landmark had pretty infamous fame. 

A large variety of distinct cultures, diverse provenance, different origin, religion such as Macedonians, Montenegrin, Bulgarian, Romanian and Turks new citizens next to the locals generated several troubles, the coexistence was pretty difficult with cases of intolerance next to frequent harsh disputes.

Many evenings were characterised by a lot of challenging dice with protagonist cards games always betting, consuming alcohol, for national pride or for simple arguments many nights usually ended in fights, in brief a place which was not the best for spending some pleasant hours.

The amazing position adjacent to the old historic centre and its proximity to the famed Narodno Pozorište u Beogradu, the Belgrade National Theatre with pretty low prices for rent played a decisive role in the following years changing the history of Skadarlija.

Talented, writers, poets, journalists, musicians, thinkers, bohemian students were highly attracted to move there and in the meantime took place a plan established by the local Authorities which started to clean that area by undesired people organising Police patrols with severe controls day and night. 

In the late 19th Skadarlija had a notable transformation becoming a relevant meeting point of a famous Belgrade Artistic "New Wave" thanks to emergent characters boasting a notable profile who reached popularity in the highest cultural spheres.

It became one of the most important, distinctive stronghold of the Serbian Romanticism, that notorious cultural movement which had since that historic period a great success creating a relevant school with patriotic inspirations closely linked to elevate the beauty of the motherland with a consequent sublimation in art and literature.

That spreading of culture was mainly highlighted by the independence of the country which left the Turkish Empire generating since then a joie de vivre which reached impressive peaks with artists who reached an international fame as Stevan Todorović, Lazar Kostić, Kosta Trifković, Simo Matavulj, Jovan Jovanović Zmaj among others.

Next to them there were also Đura Jakšić and Branislav Nušić, the latter was undoubtedly an iconic character linked to the high philosophical sphere of the city, a talented, eclectic man who was a famed novelist, playwright, artists, journalist and soldier who lived in Skadarlija.

Those figures were among the most prominent writers, painters, an absolute mine of talents with a consecrated image, pioneers of another special historic stage of a country which was rediscovering the times of its golden ages after many dark years.

All that was due to historic events in which the desire of new proposals was often obscured for political reasons, occupations, frequently hidden by the lack of enthusiasm or  someone who could not launch as main pioneer new concepts of culture and art.
 
An event which increased much more its notoriety took place in 1901 when a famous, old restaurant called Dardanelles located in Trg Republike, the notorious, lively Republic Square very close to that street was closed and demolished.

That disappeared establishment was in that period a more than renowned meeting point of a long list of intellectuals linked to the most prestigious literary nomenclature and due to the loss of that headquarter there was a massive exodus of those usual guests who found in that iconic cobbled street a new haven.

That environment was closely linked to their exigencies thanks to new cafes or Kafanas, sort of bistro arose in the former Yugolaslavia  established on its course which year by year called more and more artists.
 

It was since then that captivating avenue acquired that intriguing atmosphere reminiscent Montmartre starting to be a cross road of the most varied cultural movements which found in that site the ideal habitat.

Several meetings with main subjects linked to all kinds of arts were constantly protagonists, with an attentive eye to all what was happening in Paris, usual destination of prominent characters which was for many local talented philosophers a kind of inspiring artistic model to take as a divine reference.
 
That hallway was consecrated since then as a Top metropolitan destination, something nobody could miss, mandatory for every man who saw in that site a must, a popular epicentre of new ideas, a very renowned cross point of figures who launched inspirations and strong literary messages.

That European Capital was in that time in its kind a little world of a new generation of thinkers many of them always busy to develop something of innovative, often ready to have interlocutors to exchange ideas, opinions with major protagonist artistic themes which created waves of enthusiasm and inspirations.

In  1929 Branislav Nušić wrote one of his most successful works with a reference to the street narrating that beneath the arch of the local aqueduct which crossed Skadarska there was a small fountain with a pipe, also in that case linked to a captivating cultural instrument as literature that emblematic street full of charm started to gain more and more prestige.
 
The image of fountains always has represented something of very important, deeply rooted in the Slavic cultural roots as source of life, also chosen as meeting point, a special icon often present to transmit inspiration, that literary narration with a new fountain as protagonist elevated along Skadarska Ulica during the reconstruction of some buildings increased furthermore the popularity of that site.

Over the years most of the highest Serbian cultural sphere continued to have there a focal point, Skadarlija was already in the prestigious International ranking linked to emblematic exponents of the most popular local nomenclature.  

Due to that notable resonance which reached many frontiers several foreign artists strongly attracted decided to travel to Belgrade to enjoy that  attractive Slavic reality highly identified to be a new emergent, trendy cultural cradle, an artistic destination in continuous development.

During their stays that cobbled 500, 0 metres was the point in which they could meet the local colleagues or simply spending hours enjoying a coffee, a glass of fine Cognac breathing the lively atmosphere of that famed artery.
 
That European Capital was in that time in its kind a little world of a new generation of geniuses many of them always busy to develop something of innovative, often ready to have interlocutors to exchange ideas, opinions with major protagonist artistic themes which created enthusiasm and inspirations.

All that captured the attention from abroad in a place which furthermore reached high peaks of interest for its very eclectic spirit in which all was possible in terms of creativity.

That site continued to live its golden ages also later thanks to the presence of new representative exponents of movements which interested a lot many people from western Europe.

Some of the most prominent residents and usual visitors in Skadarlija's Bohemian history who replaced those famed predecessors in a new cycle were famous characters such as Dobrica Milutinović, Tin Uljević, Gustav Krklec, Stevan Sremac, Antun Gustav Matoš Zuko Džumhur and Momo Kapor among others.



All those characters highlighted a very intense life, all together in those times leaders of movements who found in the young generations and not only something to believe, follow and including to venerate.  

They were also sort of new ambassadors who made an automatic promotion of a place which became a focal point of the entire Nation, it was there in which an innovative spirit was finding an identity with a marked profile able to transmit hopes, dreams, positive feelings towards future perspectives living with optimism.

That inspiring, intriguing hallway was for all them a sort of stronghold, perpetual seat for their activities, their Montmartre as that Parisian area was the headquarter of Brissaud, Matisse, Degas and Derain among others.

In the 60's the area was partially restored although the big restoration took place in the 70's according to a design by the architect Uglješa Bogunović, his wife the sculptress Milica Ribnikar supported by the influential charisma of other important Serbian artists such as the painters Zuko Džumhur and Mario Maskarelj, all together representing the continuation of an endless considerable artistic wave.

In a brilliant collaboration with innovative plans they managed to preserve in the street its already existing historic attractions without interfering with its main emblematic features introducing something which had to give a new touch of modern, contemporary appeal improving the local aesthetic image of some buildings in disrepair or considered retro which had to continue to be more alive than ever conserving their intact charm.

That was a sort of a new make up integrally saving what was the most representative in that iconic corner of the city.

Those works were mainly developed in a period in which there was a kind of desire of revival focused to a metropolitan embellishment closely linked to revalue the historic patrimony with operations aimed in restorations using many identical or very similar materials.

Some structures along the street were re-painted using same colours but with  more resistant paints including those with high facades  with a partial retouching of decorative architectural elements such as stuccoes, frames, portals, cornices but without alterations or modifications of the original layouts.

  

In the late 60's, Skadarlija gained further fame as favourite centre of all the youth bohemian sphere of Belgrade and plans of  new meticulous adaptations were made some years later. i

In 1977 Josip Broz alias Marshal Tito  commissioned different  works of preservation in Belgrade and in the case of Skadarlija were remodelled the sidewalks and some metres od deteriored pave to keep alive the shining appearance of that urban emblem.

The country despite its Socialist regime in those years gained an international consideration with excellent relationships in particular with France and Great Britain with a party  which never adhered to the former Pact of Warsaw which divided Europe in two blocks generating that infamous period called Cold War ended as you know with the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989.

Due to that many tourists from those countries visited the Montmartre of Belgrade in those years and after numerous visits with a constant positive feedback by several visitors Skadarlija elevated itself as a landmark which continued to be inserted in the main attractions of a city packed by stunning monuments and masterpieces.

In more recent times that street added other chapters to its history in 1985 the theatre director, playwright and literary historian Zorica Jevremović Munitić founded Ulično dečje
pozorište, the Children Street Theatre with a troupe formed by Romany children from the poor neighbourhood of Mirijevo performing next to others coming from the wealthy district of Stari Grad, Dorćol and there are new projects in phase of operation.

Today after some reforms with new municipal statutes Skadarlija is a mesna zajednica, a sub-municipal unit inserted in the administration of Stari Grad. 

Apart the history which is undoubtedly one of the deepest and more captivating highlights of the city along it you can also admire some relevant cultural icons, absolute protagonists representing all together the true spirit and unmistakable soul of that notorious place. 

At the civic Number 34 you can see the house in which lived the prominent figure called  Đura Jakšić who lived for a long time in Skadarlija although he was born in Vojovodina, concretely in Srpska Crnja, a small town pretty close to Romania and that man was certainly a character who increased the popularity of that emblematic hallway.

That building hosts nowadays a Museum in his memory and it has been turned into a meeting place for poets and writers participating in the Skadarlija evening events and at the entrance of that house in 1990 was also placed a bronze statue depicting that artist.

That distinguished and famous talented, eclectic figure was writer, poet, dramatist, painter highly inspired by the works of Lord Byron, but also by the Classic Greek literature and in a second chapter of his life particularly attracted by Sándor Petőfi, that famus Hungarian poet and liberal revolutionary of the 19th century.

Well known to be an ardent, fervent patriot he was also a kind of relevant pioneer in Serbia in literature but also in painting transmitting artistic values based on imagination and creativity  executing something of extremely new and innovative in that time.

His presence represented for many young artists, a perfect model to follow achieving new goals during their artistic life, his works often were tied to a relevant exaltation of the most romantic local philosophy, nature, national cause and all that captivated the new generations. 

His former house became in its kind a sort of venerated pilgrimage destination for many fans and readers who have highly appreciated the works of that considerable figure.

  

Very close you can see another statue erected in honor of another symbol of the artistic life of Skadarlija, the writer Joakim Vujić, a notorious character widely regarded, considered the father of the Serbian theatre. 

That man is historically well known to have been the Director of Knjaževsko Teatar Srpski the Royal Serbian Theatre of Kragujevac, for a long time was a sort of idol, elevated as a National star donating divine inspirations to many Yugoslav artists.

Elevated as one of the most talented dramatists of the 18th and early 19th centuries born in Eastern Europe, he also reached a great popularity and admiration in the courts of France and Austria especially in the times linked to the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

Vujic was a very advanced, eclectic, talented figures over the media in that era because apart his mother tongue, he fluently spoke German, French, English, Italian but also Hungarian, Greek and furthermore he could communicate in a basic Turkish and Hebrew languages he studied for a period.

 In addition to all those special qualities very uncommon in those times he also had a very solid knowledge of Latin, Greek-Roman history due to his classical studies participating in many occasions as main interlocutor or speaker in important events and meetings related to those topics.

Definitely something unique in those years, a kind of divinity for many young artists who saw in him a charismatic, inimitable character, worth a mention that he was greatly admired by the Emperor Leopold I King of Croatia, Hungary and Bohemia who classified him as a genius over the highest intellectual media.

Milica Ribnikar, a distinguished sculptress was another representative talent who left an important imprint along that street with a work dated 1966 representing a fountain. 

In the history of Belgrade, Serbia and Slavic countries fountains have always had an important role because they have always been related in culture and habits becoming usual meeting points, a symbol very rooted narrated in literature, poems since the beginning of the first Southern Slavic literary movements as source of life, fertility, health, joy and happiness.

Facing that significant monument to confirm the relevance of that work but also its cultural value is celebrated every year in summer season an event when  the flag of Skadarlija with the local symbols depicting cloves, stick and hat is placed in its proximity, remembering all the artistic chronological stages of that urban corner which is more than a city emblem.

The end section is also very intriguing and it is known as Skadarlija Atrium. It is mostly occupied by the brewery which belonged to one of the most distinguished establishments in that street developed before the Second World War managed by the Czech Bajloni family.

In that place which was largely demolished in 2008 was produced Aleksandar Pivo, a beer made using thermal waters of a local spring with a source in the brewery's backyard situated  in the subterranean galleries of that former place with spaces used as storage rooms for beer barrels.

After 1945 it was incorporated in  BIP Brewery but later closed its doors. Regarding that famous water as important detail worth a mention that it was bottled for drinking until the early 2000s.

Not far you can see another fountain called Sebilj which is a present of the city of Sarajevo to Belgrade for the 9th Conference of the Non-Aligned Movement celebrated in 1989.

It is a sort of copy of the original called Baščaršija located in the Capital of Bosnia Herzegovina which represented in its kind a signal of friendship and brotherhood in that period.

Along that stunning cobbled hallway you can also enjoy many fine restaurants tasting delicious local specialities and one of them is Tri šešira, denomination which translation means the Three Hats.

It is a very famous establishment, witness of the lively vibrant life of Skadarlija which hosted during the course of its history famed, illustrious guests such as Alfred Hitchcock, Jimmy Hendrix, George Bush, Josip Broz "Tito", the King of Spain Juan Carlos, Anatoly Karpov and Sandro Pertini among others.

All those prominent people during their stays in Belgrade could not resist to the fascination of that symbol of Stari Grad choosing that place for their lunches, dinners or simply having a cool drink contemplating the bohemian spirit of that glorious street cradle of culture, literature highlighted by an everlasting, irresistible atmosphere.

A site which worth to be mentioned is the famous Le Petit Piaf, another remarkable icon established in one of the oldest houses of that street becoming in a short time an establishment highly appreciated by locals and tourists.

Another one noteworthy is Dva  Jelena, the Two Deer, a further is Crvena Kuća, the Red House which is a pleasant place to enjoy live traditional music, very lively, offering a wide variety of drinks.

Others with excellent reputation for quality, name and prestige deserving to be mentioned are Zlatni Bokal, The Golden Chalice, Dva Bela Goluba, Two White Doves, Crni Gruja, the Black Stone and Ima Dana, Some days.

If you want to try some traditional plates linked to the most typical national cuisine, some restaurants offer  different exquisite specialities so it is a great idea to stop in one of them enjoying the incomparable magic air of that Belgrade corner delighted by a more than delicious meal. 

Once there do not miss to taste the most notable Roštilj, a kind of grilled meat  accompanied by an excellent  Pivo beer or try the traditional Cepvapčići consisting in small spicy grilled sausages accompanied by onions or potatoes. 

Other classical, popular dishes in the case you want to know something more about the delectable Balkan gastronomy I suggest to taste the very tastefully Kapama, exquisite lamb seasoned with yogurt, a plate pretty common also in the nearest Bulgaria.

Do not miss to try the famous Sarma, one of the distinctive culinary symbols of the Nation consisting in rice, meat but also vegetables wrapped by grape or more commonly in pickle cabbage leaves,

In some establishments lists you can find another simple plate but equally very rooted in the local gastronomic panorama called Punjene Paprike, a delight made with stuffed peppers combined with rice and meat.

If you want to enjoy a typical sweet speciality with an aromatic and warm coffee try the excellent Palačinke, kinds of superb crepes or why not the popular Suva Pita Sa Orasima, a walnut cake boasting a very old tradition. 

Also poetry fall in love with that 500,0 metres street reminiscent Montmartre with a poem which was as a hymn by the previously mentioned Zuko Džumhur an important Serbian- Bosnian figure, a prominent character of the former Yugoslavia in the 60's and 70's, an inspiring writer, appreciated painter and a figure extremely versatile in every kind of art. 

  

That man is famous for relevant links with that charming place wrote about that popular hallway something saying that:

 "My name is Skadarlija...or Skadarska, however you like it...

I am not a boulevard...or avenue...or a highway..I am a common steep curved alley in the middle of Belgrade....

And that would be everything meaningful to be told about me if it wouldn't be for my bohemian history, my crumbling roofs, my shaking chairs..."

It was in its kind a sublime veneration of that artery in all its essence, those words can transmit you the meaning of that site, an inspiration which greatly explains what that street represented for a successful artist with sensations and vibrations that he wanted to depict and transmit with that work.

After decades and more decades of performing in Skadarlija's venues just like in the previous years, that site is still synonymous of that cultural stronghold which never stopped to create generations of aritsts who always highlight with their performances that magic environment which continues to be more alive than ever, intriguing and in its kind for many very exciting.

The names changed after that multitude of distinctive characters who characterised the life and spirit of that street but it is the time of others.

In more contermporary times Mila Matić, Sofka Vasiljković, Radomir Šobota, Šaban Šaulić, Toma Zdravković, Divna Đokić, Olga Jančevecka, Ljubica Janićijević and many others gave that Belgrade area a perennial bohemian image with a perpetual joie de vivre becoming in their kinds eminent successors o those illustrious, unforgettable predecessors.
 
All that is a brilliant continuation of something which will never die and it will survive forever, many people about that think that hallway has thousands of lives, for others it is simply immortal, also that is Skadarlija in all its beauty, fascination, appeal for all what it represents for thousands of people.

The years go by but it always kept its incomparable, unmistakable charm with more contemporary figures who replaced legendary names but with the same mission, that to keep always alive that vibrant life which never ended to produce special feelings enchanting a multitude of visitors. 

Unlike other popular places in Belgrade today that radiant urban corridor is considered a posh area but it is also known as a place visited by young couples looking for a pleasant romantic time enjoying a candlelight dinner, families with children having a lovely walk and the presence of numerous tourists who want to breathe something of special along that landmark which transmits that Parisian charming aura which elevated it as a little Eastern European sister of Montmartre. 

Skadarlija's cafes, restaurants, art exhibits and that iconic promenade attract up to 20,000 people daily, a number absolutely incredible.  

The area is a car-free zone but it would be unsuited for traffic because it is too narrow and with bumpy cobblestones.

As personal recommendation for the ladies, it is not convenient to walk on the Montmartre of Belgrade with high heels..I saw live someone losing them...

You can not miss to spend an evening or a visit to that place so alive anytime and with that marked bohemian spirit which never lost during all its history.

Belgrade is a city is so easy to love because it has many places so special but probably Skadarlija is that one having all the qualities to charm anyone at first sight much more than others with visitors that for a special reason or another want to return there one day once again.

The imagination and creativity of all people who gave popularity to that stunning site is undoubtedly a superb highlight because the inspirations which born in that corner of Beograd in Stari Grad certainly has marked years and years leaving indelible imprints.

For someone could be in those 500,0 metres a sensation matching that charming quarter of Paris, for the locals it is a kind of myth, for others it is including a sort of urban legend which continues to be beloved, narrated and alive. 

What is certain is that visiting that place is something unique, once there starting a walk in its first metres you will immediately understand why a street like that it is so intriguing, fascinating and magic which  will enchant you in a fabulous starry night.

 Francesco Mari

Useful links

 www.beograd.rs

 www.tob.rs

www.belgradian.com

 www.belgradetours.com
www.belgradenet.com