Tuesday 18 December 2012

Porsgrunn-Norway | Beautiful Mosaic of Waterways with Intact Forests.


 Porsgrunn is an attractive city of Norway which shows all around its boundaries and immediate surroundings a beautiful mosaic of waterways with intact forests natural, stunning landmarks of the County of Telemarka magnificent land in the traditional region of Grenland considered one of the most fascinating southern territories of that magnificent country of the Scandinavian peninsula.

That centre of approximately 35,000 inhabitants is the seventh Norwegian city, it forms with the nearest Skien a pretty, big conurbation next to the small but scenic and captivating Gunneklevfjord  adjacent to another sea arm as the wonderful Frierfjord and  crossed by the river Skienselva.

Once there what you will notice at first sight a a striking environment highlighted by an immense extension of a stupendous, verdant woodland around beautiful fjords, placid rivers, wild streams, picturesque lakes all symbols of a fantastic nature boasting an incredible variety of colours giving that land a magic appeal.

You will admire all that in a fantastic journey driving towards the southern Norwegian coast from Oslo,  great start point landing on its international Airport via Drammen along the E18 motorway flanking the spectacular Oslofjord continuing in direction of another diamond called Sandefjord reaching the splendid town of Larvik and from there entering into a further, enchanting paradise.

That journey of approximately 2 hours and 45 minutes is absolutely unique greatly recommended for all those who desire to be bewitched by something of wonderful ,every corner could be a poster because each kilometre shows the visitor marvellous details.

In addition to all that  worth a special mention the stunning, panoramic views offered by the Skagerrak coastline, a stupendous littoral along the North Sea  facing a charming promontory with the scenic image of Skagen consisting in the northernmost town of Denmark, a coastal stretch absolutely spectacular, ideal to take hundreds of pictures of an Eden to remember forever.

That Scandinavian Paradise is highlighted by traditional, little villages, idyllic hamlets composed by fairytale agglomerations with picturesque, coloured wooden houses on the shore of streams flowing in charming valleys at a short distance by numerous sea arms of different size, iconic, Norwegian symbols.  

That presence is a great incentive for every tourist during a stay to fill days with a wide variety of excursions, including visiting small centres which boast an outstanding fascination in a  land which has always been since a long time ago a unique attraction for passionate photographers.

Telemark is a historic county which was known since 1662 until 1919 with the name Bratsberg amt, a geographic area with scattered beautiful villages and  towns as Porsgrunn, all them reflecting with their architecture and a preserved environment a great destination for all the visitors who also want to discover secular historic attractions.

Next to that there is the great chance to enjoy a wide, variety of outdoor actvities such as trekking, fishing, cycling, tourism adventure exploring virgin forests showing all the magic wilderness of Norway.

That iconic word "Telemark"  immediately brings to mind Nordic Skiing with  that notorious speciality called Cross country or XC Skiing and it is there where Sondre Norheim invented that famous style with that denomination which made history as pioneer of a new way for skiing.

Naturally that land due to that invention with a long, historic tradition totally rooted in that sport but also something deeply linked to the local culture in deep contact with nature with the skis protagonists as mean of locomotion used since a long time ago to reach places totally covered by snow.

All that permits during a stay to practise that sporting activity thanks to the presence of hundreds of beautiful trails with many kilometres crossing intact forests.

That is a further, fascinating highlight reflecting the spirit of Norway which always has something to delight the visitor all around its boundaries also in those special climatic conditions for all those who are fond of Nordic skiing and in love with Scandinavia.

 That marvellous territory land of the Vikings is also the motherland of  Henrik Ibsen the most famous Norwegian writer and furthermore the film industry lovers probably  remember that emblematic movie titled the Heroes of Telemark  which was filmed there.


That famed work dated 1965 by Anthony Mann, starring Kirk Douglas evoking captivating events which took place during the Second World War during the German occupation of Norway enchanted many people also for the beauty of the scenery protagonist in that successful movie.


That is also a great attraction for all the visitors who are fervent fans of that famous chapter of contemporary history with the chance to retrace itineraries linked to an important historical stage with that movie narrating significant episodes with protagonists lands of that Nordic country. 


Comfortable accommodations among them some cottages located in a fantastic environment next to a delectable gastronomy with the emblematic salmon as culinary highlight next a varied list of other exquisite specialities are other great highlights.

The chance to spend an enjoyable stay in fully equipped hospitality structures with a cuisine more than appropriate to satisfy the most demanding palates makes Porsgrunn and its immediate surroundings perfect places for that.

For all the tourists who love peace recharging batteries during holidays that Paradise where calm and tranquillity are protagonists is a vacation idea simply ideal.


That land was historically famous centuries ago for its independent status during the Viking era of King Harald I because unlike other existing counties absorbed in that big ancient Nordic Kingdom despite that powerful Reign with the most influential dynasties it always maintained its autonomy with its a tiny Realm totally surrounded by several lands domains of that Monarchy.

Originally the current site was a village mainly populated by farmers and fishermen, the first mainly living in a hilly area above the Skagerrak, the others in proximity of the several local fjords which permitted the local population a rich salmon catch which was one of the first main resources since a long time ago next to the development of an important trade activity of that superb kind of fish sold in several markets.

The name of the current municipality was originally Porsgrund, a composition of two words meaning pors, kinds of shrubs as bog myrtles collected by some nuns in the the local forests while grunn means ground.

The denomination and activity is linked to a small island called  Gimsøy when in the 12th century in its boundaries was elevated a Benedectine nunnery founded by Daug Eilivsson well known as Gimsøy Abbey led by the daughter of the founder called Baugeid who was the first abbess of that Sacred Institution

That Religious site was closed during the Norwegian reformation when the country embraced the Protestant Lutheran faith burnt in 1546 and unfortunately there are not traces of that place nowadays.

In 1576  the village was mentioned by  Peder  Claussøn Friis a notorious writer, historian and clergyman who also described in some of his works the territories of Faroe Islands, Iceland, Greenland but with a notable passion for the history of his motherland.

That character  indicated the presence of Porsgrunn which started to be known in the old maps of the Scandinavian Kingdom writing something about it in a phrase saying : "Two and half miles from the Sea, the Skien river flows into the fjord and that place is called Porsgrund."

The presence of several forests around that centre has always played an important role in terms of local economy when the locals started in the 16th century and much more in the 17th century to create a relevant business network linking to the already active harbour the timber industry establishing a Custom House becoming since then a well known Market Town.

That period represented the start-up of the  golden ages of that centre which in a short time was transformed in one of the most important ports of Norway replacing the nearest Skien, capital of the county.

All that happened  because that site had many difficulties to manage along the river the boats traffic due to the presence of several materials and waste which obstructed the navigation along the course of that waterway in its boundaries.

The fortune of Porsgrunn thanks to that trade activity reached a notable consolidation in the 18th century also thanks to the presence of influential noble families such as Deichmans, Cappelens, Aalls, Lovenskjolds with many exponents of them covering important political and business charges.

Those events determined the chance to obtain autonomy in a period in which the current municipality was  part of a group of villages under Skien administration but that important growth generated a separation.

In  1838 was established the official municipality with a development of the organisation of the territorial subdivision born in the new boundaries with the construction of new roads,  buildings and infrastructures.

That successful, economical development of that centre gave job to many people of many locals including living in nearest towns receiving in addition in the 19th century the title of Kjopstad,a sort of award for special  merits due to relevant, active cycles of productive processes linked to different kinds of industres elevating itself as a mercantile town of resonance.

In addition to all that to complete the image of a new emergent  community  some relevant constructions  among them  two Churches called Vetsidakirke and Langangen kirke created a more marked urban identity with the establishment of new agglomerations around them.
 
The advent of new means of transport on water especially highlighted by the ascent of steam boats which generated  an economic growth of Norway but it was also the  decline of the town in terms of trade because Porsgrunn always used sailing boats.

Despite that decay there was a renaissance at industrial level which started at the end of the 19th century with the creation of factories producing ceramic materials, porcelain and its derivatives with protagonist the very active company Porselaennsfabrik.

That site started to to be a focal point in that kind of activity with that emergent industrial group thanks also to the cooperation at the beginning of its operations by experienced technicyans coming from Germany and the former Czechoslovakia

With that specialised support from abroad that successful business created innovative products of high quality well introduced into different  International markets and much more very appreciated.

All that made that  productive company became one the major local sources  generating a economical rebirth continuing in the 20's and 30's when the local industrial grid increased with new established companies especially devoted to metallurgical,steel and iron activities in the nearest area of  Herøya where was opened a big complex of Norsk Hydro an important enterprise  with its main headquarter in the capital Oslo. 

After a period of interrumption of the acitivities in the 40's when the country was occupied by Germany during the period of the Second World War the  city restarted its superb development in the 60's incorporating in its municipality some of the nearest villages mainly developed in the 18th century becoming in addition one of the centres  with  one of the lower rates of unemployment throughout the entire Kingdom of Norway.

The beating municipal heart of Porsgrunn is mainly arranged east of the river Skienselva behind Strandpromenaden, the riverside promenade running along that waterway while Storgata is the main artery crossing the entire boundaries. 

The long avenue Sverresgate crosses the city's centre forming an urban belt  linking the southern to the northern suburbs and on its right side is situated Porsgrunn Banestasjon, the local railway station, from there in a pleasant walk crossing Jernbanegata you can easily return to the shore of the river.

You can start the visit from a corner of the main street Storgata in a square called Radhusgata where you can see Radhus, the Town Hall, an eclectic, wide building erected in 1904 on a large rectangular plan painted in a cream tonality using as main material of construction plastered brick.

It is a work by the architect  Haldor Larsen Børve who mixed Neo-Renaissance and Art Nouveau elements, the central section is composed of four stylish, decorative columns inserted around three large arched windows flanked by two wings with arrangement of windows on both sides, highlighted by decorated lunettes inserted on its upper section. 

The main facade presents a central doorway placed beneath a small, iron balcony with arched windows inserted under a pediment with inside the name of the city in golden letters.

In front of that construction hosting the most important administrative local Institution in a wide green park you will see the Bibliotek, the municipal library.

In Strandpromenaden you can see a big metal sculpture made in 1985 called Amfritrite bolgen og havflugene, Amphitrite the wave and the seabirds, a work by Jørleif Huthaug, a talented sculptor but also painter, illustrator from Ørland.

That work consists in a nude female representing the wife of the God Neptune, Amphtitrite and two birds flying over a sinuos wave, it is in its kind a very attractive representation linking the mythological world to geometry, nature and fauna. 

Originally that sculpture was placed in the square Nordentorget but in the spring of 1999 was decided to move it on the eastern bank of Porsgrunn river on a riverwalk just behind Aetat, the building, hosting the governerment local office for unemployment.
  
Through Stangsgate a street located at approximately 100,0 metres of distance in its southern side you will be delighted by one of the most pleasant local highlights consisting in a big number of stylish, picturesque coloured houses some of them scenic, wooden buildings of different size.

 At the cross road of Aallsgate and Sverrensgate, you can admire Vår Frue Kirke av det Gode Råd is the Catholic Church dedicated to Our Lady of Good Counsel, a classic example of Dragestil architecture representing an expression of Romantic Nationalism pretty usual between the late 18th and early 19th centuries.

Elevated in 1899 by the previous mentioned architect Haldor Larsen Børve who used elements from Stave churches from different parts of Norway combined with a copper-plate bell tower and it was moved in the current location in 1937 for an incovenient position blocking the traffic.

Very stylish are the two sloping roofs established in sequence covering the entire nave with a beautiful covered porch surrounding the perimeter of the structure, a great highlight is a dominant spire topped by a cross placed on a tower behind the central body.


Another of the historic constructions which deserves a visit is Langangen kirke, erected in 1891, another work by Larsen Børve representing a typical Norwegian, timber Religious construction which loyally reflects the architectural canons in vogue in that  period.


Developed on an irregular rectangular base,  the central section appears as a sort of big hut with a high turret inserted in the middle surmounted by a scenic spire. 

A fine portal was established beneath a pentagonal stained glass window and all the architectural elements are in perfect harmony with the light tonality of the construction boasting a very charming silhouette.

That design is a very eclectic example of functional architecture occupying a not a large space with a small step leading to the entrance, a construction perfectly integrated in the the local environment.

Vestsiden kirche is another local Sacred Temple worth a visit and just like the previous was established in 1758 century by the architect Joen Jakobsen in an architectural style similar to that of  Langangen kirche expect  the colours of some details.

The Church is highlighted by a splendid spire with a lighter tonality, a special attraction is the presence of three wide arched windows under a false pediment part of the front side presenting dark decorations developed around the building with an ornate portal with light rhombus on a dark background.  

Eidanger is one of the neighbourhood of Porsgrunn and it is one of those villages incorporated in of the municipality. 

 Located on a beautiful peninsula, that place is very picturesque because it is situated between two fjords, the Eidangerfjord which gave the former village its name and the Frierfjord which translated means Beautiful Fjord crossed in a point by the Breviksbrua, a bridge leading to the another neighbourhood called  Brevik.

The main local historic, highlight is definitely its Church called Eidanger kirche,  a splendid high, white wooden pentagonal construction erected in 1150 with a tower inserted in the middle of the complex topped by a dome, on its facade was placed a wide, curved stained glass window above the main portal. 

That Church with a nave was originally a small structure, a typical stone structure developed in Romanesque style pretty similar to one you can see today in Bergen, the famous Mariakirke  established in that wonderful city in the 12th century.(if you are interested I wrote a post about that stunning place of western Norway)

The building after various restorations in the course of its history totally changed its image when it was  enlarged in 1787, in more contemporary times in 1981 was added  a sacristy in an interior simple, austere with a modern altarpiece next to a stained glass window with a a pulpit made in 1991 by Terje Grørstad while the oldest element is a stone baptismal font dated the late 19th century.

Other main highlights are its  two bells, the oldest dating back 1720 while the other is much more younger made in 1940

Eidangerfjorden is another attraction giving that neighbourhood its name which means isthmus of the fjord, a splendid sea arm 6,0 kilometres long with a jagged coastline on which you can see some islands as the scenic Sandøya and on its head the largest called Kattøya. 
  
In proximity of Eidanger there are some factories among them the famous Norsk Hydro in the Herøya peninsula one of the iconic symbols of the economical boom of that centre.

The nearest borough of Brevik located on the same peninsula was an independent municipality before to join Porsgrunn in 1964 is highlighted by a picturesque bay surrounded by intact forests surrounding a pleasant agglomeration composed by  charming, wooden houses and it is considered one of the most well preserved shipping centres of Norway.

That village despite its reduced size was well known all around the country for very important, busy International  mercantile operations linked to the exportation of ice and timber towards Great Britain, closely related to that its harbour was protagonist of the last wood expedition to the British coast in the 60's.

 Brevik also has its own Church called Brevik kirke erected in 1963 with a big square bell tower dominating from a tiny hilly plateau a picturesque group of coloured buildings established on the banks of the local port surrounded by a green, attractive woodland giving that place a very captivating image.


That site is also very attractive for the splendid image of its small picturesque bay from which you can enjoy a spectacular view of the Skagerrak with the presence of charming islands such as Sandøya and Oksaya

A very suggested panoramic point to enjoy a great panoramic view point is in Ulrikabakken situated  in the extreme side of the local headland at just 10 minutes walking from the Church along a street called Nygata.

In that place you will be delighted by a great image of the entire, local coastline and from that promontory I suggest you another pleasant walk along Langbrygga offering you a further  spectacular attraction consisting oin Brevikbrua, a scenic bridge facing the town of Stathelle.

In that area you will notice kilometres of intact forests which show the wild charm of Norway with unforgettable reflections at sunset when the sun lights fall on them next to those fabulous waterways, a scene to immortalise in an infinite album of enchanting pictures.

The proximity of the fjords is naturally another incentive to discover that magnificent corner of Scandinavia and the  Gunneklevfjord is one of them which despite its small site is very charming.

Situated at approximately 3,0 kilometres northwest of the city and north of the mouth of the river it is like a tiny brother of the bigger Frierfjord highlighted by a scenic bend with a couple of splendid inlets in its northern side while its head at south is very sharp.

Once there  you can reach a bridge called Frednesbrua where you can see the junction between the river and that fjord facing Herøya Peninsula.

On the other side of that headland you can admire the charming Frierfjorden, along it a beautiful place to enjoy a pleasant stop is Herre, a small centre situated at 16,0 kilometres from Porsgrunn along the coastal road Rv 356 starting immediately south of the town.

Along that panoramic itinerary you can admire all the sinuous curves of that beautiful fjord which after approximately 13,0 kilometres forms a captivating bay with some picturesque islets with a coastline characterised by a continuous succession of splendid inlets.

Once reached that town you will have a wonderful triple view of waterways,  the first one over the fjord, the second admiring how the river Skienselva entering inside it and the third one is facing the promontory of Herøya.

From another perspective in addition you can see a small channel connecting that beautiful sea arm to the previously mentioned Gunneklevfjorden.


The proximity of the magnificent Sanfjord and the Lanesundfjord next to an immense extension of forests with fantastic conserved green rural spaces make Porsgrunn a great destination to be delighted by the striking nature the county of Telemark offers in all its splendour.

Along the western coast of the Skagerrak you can also enjoy many other beautiful views with amazing landscapes highlighted by small gulfs facing some lovely towns as Risor and Kragero.

 In the immediate inland I suggest you to visit Siljan and Skien because also those places reflect the fascinating image of Norway, centres surrounded by an uncontaminated nature with the eternal, scenic images of picturesque timber houses.

East of Porsgrunn  there are also interesting  destinations and I recommend you during a stay to visit Larvik and Stavern which will bewitch you.

Local gastronomy is another special highlight, the cuisine in the county of Telemark is absolutely superb with a wide choice of plates will satisfy your tastes.

Naturally the iconic salmon in that area  is always fresh, prepared in many styles such as smoked, grilled baked, or marinated as the famous Gravet laks accompanied by a cool beer, simply divine, emblematic pride of an entire nation.

You can also taste excellent cod, trout with the latter is prepared the Rakfisk in a process where that kind of fish is salted, fermented, conserved for some months before to be cooked.

One of the typical speciality as in many other parts of the country is the notorious Smörbrod consisting in a delicious small sandwich filled with fish, smoked salmon, vegetables, sauce, generally eaten as a snack, appetiser, during a lunch or dinner but also served in assorted buffets.

The popular Fiskesuppe is a delectable fish soup combining in its preparation different kinds of fish with potatoes but also vegetables such as carrots, onion and celery. 

Very popular is the Lutefisk, a speciality in which the main fish generally used is cod but it could be replaced by others. It has a specific process of preparation because the sea product is before satured in water, after that operation it is salted and finally dried.

Meat is another gastronomic highlight ,you can enjoy excellent lamb used in the Fenalar, a traditional plate consisting in cured lamb legs seasoned with salt, a bit of pepper and honey and do not miss to taste the iconic Färikal, a delicious mutton stew cooked with cabbage.

You can find different kinds of reindeer casseroles next to many of soups, one of them pretty popular is the Sodd made with meat adding vegetables, pieces of onion, sliced carrots and boiled potatoes.
 
The Kjötboller is another a very famous speciality consisting in meatballs served with mashed potatoes adding creamy or gravy sauces.

Also pork meat is greatly represented with the Svinestek, an exquisite roast pork served with salads, boiled vegetables, roast potatoes and pickled cabbages and do not miss to try the Svinekoteletter, delectable, braised pork chops accompanied by mixed salad, fried onions or french fried.

Delicious also also berries, lingo berries, cloud berries, bilberries, raspberries all products  collected in the local forests often used to prepare a large variety of homemade desserts, bakery products but also combined with chocolate, whipped cream, honey or main ingredients for sweet, genuine jams.

A great way to enjoy tourism in that area is to rent a cottage, starting day by day radial excursions exploring metre by metre that magnificent land  discovering in that mosaic of splendid waterways authentic jewels of nature but in the meantime also many interesting, historic sites.

Very suggested in spring a great Educational for the professionals working in the Tourism Industry having Norway as main outgoing product, several are the opportunities to create diverse options enlarging the offer out of the classical standard with many chances to plan a multitude of packages with alternative routes very suggestive for every taste.

For groups in unforgettable Coach tours  or individuals enjoying a superb Fly & Drive many are the proposals more than captivating starting from a geographic point and ending in another across a territory which with those marvellous fjords is an astonishing dreamland.

The great features of Norway is that it can offer a large fan of chances discovering places not very popular but offering a complete tourism linked to nature, sporting and outdoor activities next to a notable historic patrimony dated the times of the Viking period, a stunning architecture covering many historic periods and also the gastronomic topic is to take in extreme consideration.

Planning a trip to Norway with Porsgrunn inserted in a fantastic itinerary is always a great idea because the Telemark territory is extremely appropriate to organise several tailor made tours with many things to do and see. 


It is  also a great destination for families with children offering them a peaceful haven with a very relaxing atmosphere next to the magnificent fjords ,rivers bordered by stupendous intact forests.

The city  has its train station with in addition a service of Buses Network with several destinations. 

By car is not difficult to reach that centre from Oslo, the distance from International Oslo Evard Munch Gardemoen Airport is approximately 160,0 kilometres and in about two hours and 45/50 minutes driving by E18 motorway you can reach the peninsula of Eidanger and Porsgrunn in a very easy way.

Visiting Norway is always a pleasure,you can discover there thousands of beautiful things, nature,art, unique landscapes and very kind people always ready to welcome the visitor.

That Nordic country is a big box  full of magnificent surprises,every metre of that marvellous land is a fantastic treasure, simply contemplating the horizon it is a hymn to the beauty of  Scandinavia and Porsgrunn a magnificent,  wide gateway to discover an infinite Paradise you will never forget.

Francesco Mari


 Recommended Accommodations in Porsgrunn and surroundings

Hotel Vic 
Thon Hotel Høyers (at Skien)

Recommended Restaurants in Porsgrunn

Restaurant Balkan
Restaurant Michel Seylmagers Hus


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Thanks a lot to read and note.