Postojna is a very famous destination of Slovenia,
well known all around the world for its impressive Karst system declared
UNESCO Patrimony Site consisting in
that astonishing masterpiece of nature formed by those over 20
exciting kilometres formed by a marvellous underground network of caves
called Postojnska Jama, a wonderful attraction simply unforgettable.
That spectacular site is definitely one of the
great attractions of that town situated in a sub region called Notrajnska
in the interior of the beautiful Carniola
which was historically an old Austrian stronghold, baptised by the Hapsburg
with the German name Innerkrain and well known for a long time with that
name.
That Slovenian centre apart that stunning highlight
also has many other attractions, it is a place with a relevant historic past
situated in a strategic and important cross point of different cultures
and civilisations in the heart of Europe in that splendid country which is an
absolute mine of treasures despite its small size.
Postojna with its approximately 15,000 inhabitants is
located at just 55, 0 kilometres South West of the Capital of the country Ljubljana
reachable via Vhrnika and it has always been since many centuries ago an
important junction of communication linking important cities, such as Vienna,
Graz, Trieste, the mentioned major
centre of the Nation but also an important hallway towards the Istrian
Peninsula and the Adriatic.
Located on a hill at an altitude of 555,
0 metres, the town is surrounded by a series of mountains which form
as a sort of ring around it. The highest is the Veliki Javornik with an
altitude of 1,270, 0 metres and others
are the Sveti Lovrenc with its 1,020,0
metres, the Plesa which reaches an altitude of 1,263,0 metres and the high hill of Petricev
Hrid with its 930,0 metres.
Crossed by the river Pivka, that course of
which has its source on a hill named Gradisce Hrib at 555, 0 metres of altitude, that stream
is well known because after approximately 25, 0 kilometres it penetrates
and disappears inside the grottoes
of Postojna flowing for over 5, 0 kilometres inside them and
appearing in proximity of another cave
situated in Planina called Planjnska Jama in local language taking
the name Unica and also that is a wonderful attraction.
The environment surrounding that area is absolutely
beautiful with mountains, rivers, streams, a wide green valley, splendid forests
and the view of the Alps of the upper Carniola and in addition the
proximity of the picturesque lake Jezero Cerknica is another splendid
wonder of that territory.
That municipality arouse in the middle of a land which
was since a long time ago a point considered a main transit for merchants,
traders, nobles, artists, Imperial dynasties and in which the German,
Austrian, Italian, the Slavic and Hungarian cultures
met themselves in that centre in a geographic area which was protagonist of
many historic events.
Postojna was for long time a destination for the
nobility linked to the Hapsburg House which
enjoyed that place for its uncontaminated atmosphere, including it was a place
which called the Venetian traders
very active also in that land despite that famous Marine Republic developed its
major businesses on coastal territories and later mainly populated by the first Slavic settlers who from east reached the centre of Europe.
The local history is very attractive and that
area was inhabited since the Iron Age according to archaeological
excavations with important artifacts found in the municipal boundaries and
including settled by the Illyrians who
were the first important civilisation who established official villages in that
land.
After that population the current town was an
important Roman settlement, when that powerful Empire incorporated
that territory in its domains and integrated in a large region called Noricum
which extended from Austria to Hungary including part of Southern
Germany, Northeastern Italy, the Northern Croatia and Slovenia.
After the Roman colonisation and the fall of that Empire,
that land suffered several invasions by different populations from East and
North among them the Huns, Avars and
Goths and started to flourish in the Middle Ages exactly in the 14th
century.
In 1371
it was already ruled by the Austrian Hapsburg and from a simple former village
it obtained in a very short time the title of Burg, a town in 1432 to be a very active centre and
including in that period it was a relevant headquarter of the Austrian
government hosted in Arlsberg Schloss, a former castle situated on a
mountain called Crna Sovic.
Unfortunately that fortress was devastated by a fire
and that Institution was translated in a new one erected in the centre of the
town.
That site lived its golden ages in the 19th century, with the construction of
the railway line Vienna-Ljubljana-Trieste and furthermore in that period
was also developed an important road linking that centre to the city of
Maribor via the capital Ljubljana which was definitely a very
relevant junction between Central Europe and a gateway leading to the Adriatic
Sea in proximity of the current Croatia.
Thanks to those great connections, the attractions of
the discovered Caves, Predjamskj
Grad, the notorious Castle of Predaj, the scenic beauty of that region, the
town became a major tourist centre since then as well as being a relevant
healthy and relaxing resort due to its cool climate and peaceful atmosphere.
In 1909
the former Burg was awarded with a further title, that of Stadt , a
city, for its constant development and prosperous activities in a time in which
the commerce of fabric, minerals and salt coming from Portoroz made that place a considerable hub of trade. (In the case
you are interested I wrote a post about that Adriatic resort)
.After the 1st
War with the fall of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire, that town
which was called Arlsberg moved under Italian Kingdom rule with the Savoy House as new Royalty and the name
was changed before in Postumia and later in Postumia Grotte meaning grottoes of Postojna for the presence
of the caves and incorporated in the County of Trieste.
At the end of the 2nd War after the tumultuous
operations derived by the Morgan Line
(if you want to know more that I wrote a post about Branik talking about that)
that centre which was occupied by German troops became part of the former Republic
of Yugoslavia and named in Slovenian language Postojna.
In that period there were several changes in terms of
new maps, borders arrangements and new geographic designs including a new
organisations of small agglomeration called Naselje small centres which were previously independent
municipalities incorporated in the administration of Postojna.
All that happened during the time of Josip Broz well known as Marshal
Tito, the new leader of that former Socialist country and the former
Arslberg and Postumia changed face with many hamlets and villages
scattered around the caves entering to be part of its municipal boundaries.
Under Yugoslavian rule, Postojna was one of the
most visited attractions of the entire country and the 70s were authentic golden ages for the tourism in that corner of
Slovenia, that place was a pride and distinctive symbol to show to Europe and
the world with pride.
Notable flows
of foreign tourists reached that destination also because that country never
entered in the Warsaw Pact and many tourists in particular from France, Great
Britain and USA visited that place with extreme easiness for the pretty good
relationships established with the former Government of Belgrade.
If those years were a superb success the 80s started furthermore better,
receiving over 1 million of tourists a year, a fantastic incoming result,
simply outstanding considering the size of that town.
A strong decline of tourism came after the war in the
former Yugoslavia in the 90s and those years corresponded to a period of transition.
There was in 1991 the proclamation of independence of Slovenia, a new Tourism
Board and many things to do.
Notable flows returned to be very active approximately
a decade later with an impressive
incoming revival touching index of almost 600,000 tourists a year in
that new course of such young Republic.
They were definitely, very positive numbers,
considering a war, a separation from a former Nation and it was not easy to
rebuild a new organisation due to new systems and operations of the local Institutions
including the tourism industry had to restart new campaigns but all that thanks
to excellent efforts brought brilliant and successful results.
The hopes of the Slovenian Tourism Board and the local
Operators are those to come back to those numbers around the million of
visitors of the past or in most positive hypothesis for someone with a big
European community and without Visas much better.
The increasing of tourism created several new
facilities, services around that touristic destination with new Hotels,
accommodations, restaurants and camping.
Many National Tour Operators, included Postojna in Tours
with radial excursion from other towns such as Ljubliana, Portoroz, Maribor and combined with
the beautiful Bled, Bohinj and also Lipica (I wrote a post about
that other historic site linked to its marvellous horses)
Including from the nearest Italian Region of Friuli
Venezia and the nearest Croatia, there are several excursions arranged by local Tour Operators from
Trieste, Gorizia, Rijeka, Opatija, Pula and other points to go to
visit those iconic caves in Slovenian territory.
All that is undoubtedly great because a tourist
spending holidays in those pleasant places can enjoy a visit to a UNESCO
Patrimony Site returning home with very glad memories after a visit admiring
something of simply unique and wonderful.
Postojna created its little empire around its
attractions and what it is also really impressive despite the intense affluence
of visitors that town receives, apart the construction of some new buildings,
the local Institutions intelligently organised those establishments in specific
areas preserving the image of the environment which is attractive as in the past
and nothing ruined the pleasant aspect and also that is very appreciated by
many people.
The centre of the town is concentrated in a specific
point in which converge three important roads such as Ljubljanska
Cesta located at north east, Titova Cesta which connects the core of
the municipality to the southwestern boundaries and Jamska Cesta which
links the core of that site to its northern side in direction of the river
Pivka and the caves.
Titov Trg is the heart of that centre an important square from
which start several streets of relevance such as Presernova Ulica and Ulica 1 Maja which leads to
Zelezniska Postaja the railway
station situated at east approximately 10 minutes walking from the heart
of the municipality.
You can start the visit from that great attraction,
those caves which are situated about 600, 0 metres from the inhabited area, the
emblematic Postojnska Jama.
Those magnificent grottoes which receive visitors from
all around the world to admire its splendour and beauty started to be famous in
the 17th century when
Janez Vajkard Valvasor wrote a relation and described those marvels with
many details practically unknown by a multitude people.
Someone already had visited some corners of that mine
of hidden treasures but nobody could image that inside there was a network of
tunnels, galleries, chambers, passages and much more a spectacular show of
nature with authentic masterpieces.
Valvasor with his documentation and places he
discovered in long journeys across that marvellous labyrinth illustrated many
important aspects of that unique attraction and including that man was the
pioneer to narrate the work of the river Pivka, the formation of the rocks, the
course of the water and the fauna existing inside those stunning caves.
Luka Cec was another prominent figure
linked to Postojnska Jama, practically the successor of that character and he
was one of the most important explorers since 1818 reaching points of that Karst system until that time totally unexplored. Cec in a complete
dossier also enumerated the stalagmites and stalactites present on different
walls, he discovered the presence of further fauna and he completed in a great
way the work of that predecessor.
After other several visits in 1872 there was
the construction of the first passages while two years later was
installed the electric system, giving lights to that spectacular place
to show the world the shining treasures highlighting those fabulous grottoes.
The caves are simply impressive forming a festival of
colours, stalactites and stalagmites of different length, width and thickness
and much more formed during different
geologic period and some of them represent special images neither the
science cannot explain.
All that was the result by the calcium carbonate contained
in the water but it is really stunning to admire something that it is like
a masterpiece by a sculptor, you can admire there, sort of tapered columns,
double vaults with marvellous stalactites, natural arches, including images
representing kind of ice creams or other picturesque silhouettes as columns
with pedestals and other magnificent and impressive examples.
Very relevant are also the contrasts of colours on the
rocky walls due to the different indexes of moisture caused by the flow
of the river during its course crossing the caves. Another important and
relevant aspect is the temperature inside those grottoes, which is always
constant between 8º and 10º degrees and never changes. All that allows the
karst process which develops the spectacular formation of the most
beautiful famous and visitable caves in Europe and in the world and including
the reproduction of a determined fauna which find in those specific climatic
conditions a perfect habitat to survive.
The presence of rare species of Proteus
Anguinus, an amphibian with a similar to an eel with a
pinkish skin rare and other smaller part of the same branch added
furthermore to special small beetles only found there are also part of the marvels of that site which
apart tourists also call several scientist to study and discover more and more.
Inside also works a little train and a service consisting in a guided visit which
approximately endures 1 hour and half. Every corner of that spectacular
place is very charming and you will admire many chambers, denominations took by
their specific formation and particularity as the Hall of the Concerts for the echo and sounds generated in that
striking space, or Hall of Brilliants for the shining reflections as
gems or diamonds and others such as Planina, Otok, Pivka Abyss and the Black caves.
Those grottoes are all together an outstanding hymn to
the miracles of nature, impressive and unique in their kind.
The longitude is approximately 20,570 kilometres
and they are situated at an altitude of 680, 0 metres and the deepest
point is approximately 115, 0 metres. Not all those over 20, 0
kilometres are reachable, the electrical train takes the visitor until a point
and after that the visit continue along a path.
The visit is with guide and there are others apart the
most famous, they can be explored with torch, special shoes and helmet.
Postojnska Jama are an emblematic symbol of the
country and they appear in stamps published in 2013 and in the 2 Euro coin to celebrate the
anniversary of the discovery and they are always protagonist in TV
documentaries and films dedicated to the beauties of the World.
Also a historic event is linked to them in
occasion of the 2nd World War when Slovenia was occupied by the Wermacht,
the German troops. Those
grottoes were used as fuel store and that place suffered an attack by the
Yugoslavian Partizani, the Partisans
loyal to the Marshal Tito and that assault generated a fire and part of the
caves were damaged.
Approximately 6,
0 kilometres from that fabulous place in direction of the fortress
of Predjanskj Grad, I suggest you
a visit to Kozolec Toplar which
is a timber construction dated the late 19th century built in oak, fir and larch.
That wooden structure was used for many purposes,
storing wood, wheat, hay, utensils, objects and tools of the of the old farmers
and it is a lively representation of a ethnological museum illustrating
the work in the forests and in the countryside since the 19th century in Slovenia and one of
the better preserved of the entire country.
About 4, 0 kilometres from that site you can
admire the famous medieval fortress Predjanskj Grad, the Castle of
Predjama an impressive building arranged on four levels, built in
the early 13th century.
That castle is located on an imposing rocky wall of
123, 0 metres of altitude and its current aspect is due to several restorations
it had which gave it a Renaissance image.
The facade of the building consists in two huge
adjacent walls flanked on one side by a further smaller one which form a corner
of that construction. On them you can see a series of rectangular windows lined
in symmetry and covering about the half of the facades while the entrance
consists in an arched doorway situated on the right side next to a stoned wall.
The upper section consists in gray separated inclined
gable roofs and the structure is the result of works by the noble families Kibenzl
and Gallenberg and that place was later residence of a legendary local
character, the famous Baron Erasmus Lueger with a long and a very
suggestive history to narrate, for many people very captivating, rich of
mysteries and suppositions.
The Baron Lueger is considered a legend because nobody
exactly knows the real identity of that noble man, considered a knight or a
bandit by some people for others a sort of Robin Hood or Zorro helping
the humble inhabitants, or a Doctor Jackill- Mr.Hyde with a double life and probably just his
servants knew him.
There are many stories and suppositions linked to that
enigmatic figure, I listen some there about that character linked to true
historic documentations other which embrace legends.
That mysterious
man who was the Baron of Innerkrant
captivated since a long time ago the curiosity of the tourists and for
everybody, the histories narrated are very attractive, fascinating and for many
one of the great highlights of Postojna in its kind.
Legends and a sort of magic aura surround the profile
of such figure who lived in that castle, someone said he was titled by the Austrian Emperor
Frederick II of Austria, for merit and honours linked to his services to
the motherland and military value, others who was a descendant directly linked
to the Hapsburg House but he decided to live in Slovenia and never he came back
to his country.
The history tells that such character lived in that
manor as a Prince and in determined hours of the day he disappeared for a long
time, entire days riding his horse across the Carniola, or towards Ljubljana
and coming back to Predjanski Grad with the spoils of his robberies such as
money, jewels, gold and objects of relevant value.
The castle was erected next to a wide cave
and Lueger used it when he discovered a long tunnel, a hidden passage which was exit and entrance for his
raids crossing the river Vipava, immediately on the other side of that
hidden rocky hallway.
Suspects or
evidence, the Emperor's soldiers checked him for months
and years outside the fortress and that aristocrat was killed only by the treachery
of a servant, who informed the guards at times when the man went to sleep.
The servant called the Baron with an excuse, the noble
man lit a candle and an Austrian guard in presence of that light illuminating
the room killed that aristocrat with a musket shot crossing the window.
That is the history or legend I listen during an
Educational trip there, many are other versions despite that is the most
popular and famous, including the most suggestive that his spirit is alive
around that castle riding his horse.
Linked to that in proximity of the current highway leading to Ljubljana, there is a bridge still
remembering the times of the Baron and that place is called Ravbarkomanda,
the site of the house of the bandit.
That Bridge is remembered by the story-telling of the
former local farmers who told the sons and the younger generations told that on
that bridge saw the Bandit riding his horse and all that is linked to the history
of the legendary Baron Erasmus Lueger.
All that for many visitors is highly and greatly
suggestive and every year in July there is a Folk Medieval event remembering those times and of course the Baron
is also represented and all people wears
medieval clothes in a sort of revival of those times.
Predjanskj Grad has its caves and they are situated on
different levels due to the course of the underground river Lokva and a
curiosity every cave has its nickname and including some linked to the Baron
such as the eye of Erasmus and the Fizenc on the upper level, the
horses stable.
The gallery with those names corresponds to the main grotto
and in them there are the signatures of the first visitors dating back the 15th century.
The third level correspond to the entrance and the 4th
level is where flows the river Lokva in a place in which its waters meet
during its course the others of the river Vipava.
There is another cave pretty interesting in the case
you are interested called Zahodni Rov consisting in the western passage
and that place is generally explored by experienced and professional
speleologists.
The Carniola is a karst
region, with specific caves boasting a secular and particular formation of
rocks and the grottoes are a great attraction for numerous scientists and
geologists.
Postojna to support all that and to give more
information for further studies has a very important centre linked to the
Science Academy of Slovenia with a headquarter in the town, very famous all
around the world for its deep and meticulous studies and publications linked to
relevant scientific researches of very high level.
The name of that notable Institution is Institut za
Raziskovanje Krasa Zrc Zazu and such studies are subdivided in speleology,
geology, mineralogy, hydro geology, hydro chemistry and obviously analysis of
different fragments.
That relevant Institute contains several thousands of
karst pieces and in addition an extensive archive with a multitude of
information explaining in many details all the discoveries emerged during years
of analysis and research.
Another important highlight of the town is Postojna
Notrajnski Muzej. It is a very interesting exhibition dedicated to
archaeology, geology, history and everything related to the local territory,
including documentations about artifacts found in the Notrjanska Region, in the
municipality and its surroundings so if you are interested also that visit is
very suggested.
The Slovenian town also has its Parish Church, Cerkev
Sveto Stefana, a Baroque Religious building erected in 1777 by Leopold
Hofer and dedicated to St. Stephen containing relevant frescoes by Domenico Fabrio and Andrej Herling.
When you are in Postojna the surrounding area will
offer you a wide range of opportunities to enjoy many outdoor activities, such
as trekking and hiking on its hills and the mountains Sveti Lovrenc, Veliki
Javornik, Plesa and Petricev.
The presence of rivers as the Pivka and the Vitava are
excellent to practise rowing and canoeing and all the area has excellent places
also to enjoy mountain bike and cycling in direction Ljubljana and in all the
Notrjanska.
I suggest you a great place, that area is very
indicated for all, if you love cycling it is great but it is also splendid for
its patrimony and it is Rakov Skocjan,
a protected area since the times of the former Yugoslavia, when in 1949 the Tourist Institutions
elevated it as protected nature reserve
and it is the oldest landscape park area
of the entire country.
That
place is very famous for the presence of two iconic natural sites called Veliki
naravni most and Mali naravni most; they are two
natural bridges in a beautiful wild valley crossed by the river Rak.
In that area you can admire two other caves simply
wonderful one is called Zelske Jame, which
receives the waters of the nearest small lake Cerknisko Jezero and another one named Tkalca Jama, the cave of the
weaver, that name because there is a stalagmite which has a shape as a human figure who seems is working next to
a loom apart other formations pretty special.
That attraction was mentioned by the explored Valvasor
in his documentations edited in Die Ehre
des Herzogthums Krain which translated means the Glory of the Duke of
Carniola narrating that naïve and ingenuous local farmers and peasants looking
at those stalagmites they thought they
were animals, humans or divinities.
Cerkvici
Sveto Kancijana is another attraction consisting in the ruins of the Church of St. Cantianus a former
Religious building which originally was erected in Neo-Gothic style in the 17th
century, you can see part of the facade and some remnants of the walls and that
place is also pretty famous to be a notable archaeological site with found dating back the iron age.
Other places ideal for trekking and mountain bike is
all the area around the nearest small centres of Bukovje and Studeno, it
is a hilly territory immediately north of the outskirts of Postojna.
Those places are famous because in their boundaries
took place clashes between the Yugoslavian partisan brigade Vladimir Gortan Partizani Brigada of Tito and
a Division of the German troops flanked
by the Cetniki of the General Draza Mihailovic loyal to the King Petar Kararjordjevic II in the 2nd World War on 20th October 1944, so if you are fond about history and concretely linked to those times, those places are pretty relevant.
Tourism, Folklore and Festivals
give that centre a relevant position and fame in all the country. The town
celebrates many events, apart the famous medieval feast linked to Predjanski
Grad, another popular feast is Jakobovo Dan, the day of Jacob, and the Furmanski
Praznik, drivers of the carriages is another very popular event.
Another festival dedicated to the farmers and
foresters of the past and of the current times called Gozdar in kmet nekoc, Krompijeva
Noc, the Night of the potatoes. Very famous is also Zmaj ma mlade,
the Dragon and the young an event festival dedicated to that legendary figure
the dragon and furthermore the
Slovenian town hosts a very famous Blues Festival.
Local cuisine offers a wide selection of plates,
result of the Austrian, Italian and Slavic influences. The Jota very
similar to that made in Trieste
and Istria is a stew prepared with beans, cabbage and smoked
bacon very common in all the Carniola.
The famed and delicious Kraskj Prsut is the
local traditional ham very appreciated for its tastefully flavour and if you
are interested there are great routes to know that great product. The Kranjska Klobasa Karst is a kind
of sausage often present on the Slovenian tables and it accompanies the
previous delights in buffets, appetisers and starters.
Very popular is the Zganci a sort of puree or
polenta prepared with semolina and flour and they can be combined in soups or
with other plates and often served with sauerkraut.
A further common recipe is the Fritaja, an omelette prepared with garlic, herbs, asparagus and
flavoured by spices and there are variants with mushrooms, bacon, ham and
minced sausages.
There is an excellent variety of meat, pork, lamb and
beef with an ample variety of casseroles and stews; one of the most famed is
the Obara.
Notable is production of recipes linked to bakery and desserts,
one of the most traditional speciality are the Struklij very famous in all
the country. They are fried slices of pastry filled by different ingredients
such as nuts, honey, apple, sultana, including poppy seeds and with some of
those ingredients is also prepared the famed Prekmurska Gibanica.
Excellent is a a relevant presence of a very
good selection of local fine wines really excellent such as local
Sauvignon, Merlot, Movia Veliko Brda, Chardonnay, Teran, Vitovska
and Pinot.
White and red wines are all very versatile, not too
strong but with body, texture and a vivid and pure colour. Many of them can
accompany starters, appetisers, the local
Cabernet and Sauvignon are perfect with salami and red meat, while a fine
local white Sutor Chardonnay is great with fish and
seafood.
All those products are very palatable wines at the
first sip and you will feel the aroma of a robust grape cultivated at an ideal
altitude, signal it is a wine of relevant quality. About other kind of drinks
do not miss to try the Slivovka which is the most traditional plum
brandy of the country.
Visiting Slovenia and the Carniola is something always
great, beautiful landscapes, many places rich of history and charm and Postojna
is a must all to enjoy for its impressive karst cave system UNESCO
Patrimony Site something unique and which will live in your memories forever.
That castle with the mystery of Erasmus Lueger and
several other captivating corners of that charming land will be a great desire
to discover more and more that place, a splendid place which always transmits something of extremely fascinating and
once visited and loved, it will be a see you soon returning there in future once again.
Francesco Mari
Recommended
Accommodations in Postojna
Hotel Jama
Hotel Kras
Apartments Grmek
Recommended
Restaurants in Postojna
Restaurant Taberna Grajska
Restaurant
Spajza
Useful links
