Cadaqués is a very picturesque and charming coastal town of Spain,beloved and scenic Costa Brava Salvador Dalí haven situated in one of the most picturesque corners of that captivating Catalan coastline.
That stupendous place was for long time the golden refuge of that talented and eclectic artist,painter,sculptor and genius of those movements called Surrealism and Cubism which launched new ideas and imaginative concepts in art with new horizons and inspirations.
Located in a beautiful corner of the Natural Park of Cap de Creus and protected by the splendid Alt Empordà plateau in a marvellous natural scenery embraced by the Mediterranean,Cadaqués is furthermore
highlighted by magnificent landscapes with view of the Catalan Pyrenees peaks and all that undoubtedly increases the captivating aspect and image of that resort.
Its charming whitewashed houses,narrow streets and relevant historic buildings erected in different periods make that resort one of the most beautiful and representative sites of that magnificent northeastern coastal corner of Catalonia.
Not to be confused with other busy and vibrant destinations of a coastline which attracted for its sunny and mild climate all year tourists from all around the world since some decades ago the town has kept its identity and it is a special place boasting a picturesque natural environment so attractive in summer and winter alike.
The Bay of Cadaqués is the largest natural harbour of Catalonia and it is a site you can not miss if you are planning holidays in that land of Spain,furthermore as geographical relevant detail is the most easterly town of the Iberian Peninsula.
Cadaqués occupies most of the east coast of the spectacular Cap de Creus home of the Nature Park of the same name which with a multitude of natural beauties complete and identify that stunning place as a little corner of Paradise.
The name of the resort derives from the term Cap de Quers or Cap d'Aques which means Cape of the Rocks.
Originally it was a humble fishing village and currently with its approximately 2800 inhabitants it is one of the most attractive destinations on the coasts of Catalonia and Spain with its unique location on a promontory which since long time ago attracted many people for its stunning panoramic views absolutely unique.
The visitor can enjoy there the charm of a seaside town which never lost its charm and appeal despite the influence of the massive tourism and Cadaqués is always a destination which seduces all for its authenticity.
Obviously the name of that great artist called Dalì increased the fame and prestige of that resort close to his birthplace the captivating Figueres,not far from the city of Girona which also has a lot to offer in terms of art and culture.
The notable privilege to be situated between mountains and sea is another relevant detail very appreciated by several people who desire to spend holidays admiring diverse landscapes.
Despite its small size that town has a long history to narrate.It was explored by important ancient civilisations such as Phoenicians,Greeks and Romans and those cultures gave the locals a major enrichment. Navigation and fishing were since ancient times an input to create the local economy which continued for long for long time to be the main sources.
The first historic documents referring to Cadaqués are dated the early 9th century,exactly in the year 814 in occasion of an event of extreme importance linked to the sinking of a boat with the relics of the Saints Abdon and Sennen which were saved by locals along the coast of the former village and since then that place acquired importance.
Other important historic archives documented the donation in the year 974 and the sale of part of its territory in the year 1030 made by the influential Counts of Ampurias to the religious order of the Monastery of San Pere de Rhodes including a land comprising the Cap de Creus.
Historical highlights are also the existence of fishmongers and farmers since medieval times.The cultivation of vineyards was one of the first activity developed in terms of agriculture combined to a former harbour along the local peninsula which started to be active mainly in local trades along the Costa Brava and with a fishing activity pretty relevant at local level.
All that certifies that the inhabitants alternated those activities to survive in a land seemingly hostile also due the frequent pirates attacks who raided constantly that coastline.
In a document dated the year 1444 preserved in the Municipal archives of Cadaqués it describes that 22 Moorish ships burned and destroyed the settlement and the leader called Baba Aruch not only plunder the locals but he also devastated the local Church during one of his several assaults also kidnapping several inhabitants.
All that generated the project of the construction of the defencive wall of Cadaqués development which was decided after all those incursions.
That coastal area was often considered by Ligurian corsairs,Moorish and Saracen pirates a land of depredation and also pretty easy to organise successful raids because it was not protected.
The vulnerability of the former inhabitants was mainly due by the geographical isolation and the fact of that people lived close to the Mediterranean but separated from the other agglomerations of the Empordà in the mountains of Pení which were pretty far away and with poor links of communications in terms of roads and connections.
A large number of fishermen and sailors were captured by the Moorish although occasionally other kidnappings occurred in the mainland.
From time to time some brave local men with the intention to defend their families went to meet the invaders along the coast with resistance but never with positive results due the notable difference in terms of lack of weaponry and the consistent number of the attackers.
In the 13th century the King James I led the operations about the recapture of Majorca which was in that period under Moorish rule and also with the help of the Empordà inhabitants which included sailors coming from that settlement.That campaign was successful and the Monarch was also able to release later the current Catalonia including Cadaqués.
Historically also a small Jewish community over the centuries left a mark in the town since medieval times today visible in the names of some streets and there was also a synagogue which disappeared in the 15th century.
Cadaqués was traditionally engaged in fishing with a of small but organised fleet since the 16th century and until the 19th century were developed small industries dedicated to the anchovies fishing,selling them in the local Catalan markets and all that represented one of the important resources of the former local economy.
In the early 19th century started the cultivation of olive trees with a relevant success but unfortunately abandoned with the frost of the year 1956.
Today many olive groves are being recovered as part of a sustainable economy within the Nature Park of Cap de Creus which occupies an important part of the town and as element of fire fighting endemic in that area.
The town has lived most of its history dedicated to vineyards but also that cultivation in the 19th century due a devastating phylloxera which ruined all the plantations caused that many people had to emigrate to South America.
In the early 20th century with an uncertain future,a large number of local inhabitants emigrated to Cuba and it has been estimated as one third of the village of approximately 1200 people reached that Caribbean island.
Many of those immigrants were financially successful in that island on the other side of the Ocean and they returned home starting to build large and ornate charming houses some of those stylish buildings can still be seen in the town as the Casa Blava (Blue House) which represents part of the architectonic and cultural local patrimony.
The Tourism Industry was developed later.Something started with a local tourism in particular day trips of families from Figueres,Girona and others from Barcelona who reached the local coast enjoying the beautiful environment and that enchanting scenery which was practically a virgin haven ideal to spend pleasant times.
Since the year 1958 Marcel Duchamp,a talented French painter and sculptor and one of the artist more influential of the 20th century decided to fix his summer residence in Cadaqués and it was that a special event considering the presence of such prominent figure so famous in the most high artistic spheres choosing that coastal small centre as home.
The surrealist painter Salvador Dali, whose family owned in the town a house decided from his native Figueres to spend long periods in the current resort.
Dalí found in that beloved and scenic haven of Costa Brava iinspiration,peace,relax,far from the the stressful rhythms of the urban life.The Catalan artist embraced Cadaqués in a sort of endless and happy marriage and that small seaside town became his stronghold and ideal habitat to think,project,develop and create.
Including the current resort was also visited by Federico Garcia Lorca who returned to Spain from New York in the year 1948 and lived later in Port Lligat for a period.
The resort also attracted other notable celebrities as Eugenio d'Ors who wrote some of his works during his stays in that scenic place and a long list of other distinguished artists such as Pablo Picasso,Rafael Durancamps, Joan Miró, Richard Hamilton,Josep Pla,Luis Bunuel,Magritte,Marc Chagall and also Albert Rafols Casamada fell in love with Cadaqués visiting that jewel of Costa Brava in several occasions.
Due that great and impressive escalation of popularity which transformed that resort in a top artistic destination and cultural meeting point soon other young artists such as Antoni Pitxot, Gustavo Carbo Berthold and Maurice Boitel started to be fascinated by the natural environment and the splendid panoramic views of that wild coast.
Obviously an important impulse was transmitted by that previous generation of famed characters and that Catalan municipality became a sort of magnetic attraction for a long list of many others who in a short time flocked there.
Several personalities of culture literature and art visited in the following decades that small seaside resort which became despite its size an important cultural reference.
Art was also sensitive to represent the former past of Cadaqués when a statue was erected by the famous pa Dalí on the seafront to symbolise a place which was born as a humble fishing village and continued to be alive thanks to the tourism industry.
All that was a sort of message simply great.The culture and history of a place is not only a dozen or more prestigious and notorious names visiting a site giving it fame and popularity but also is extremely important who with a simple and humble life helped centuries before the development of a former settlement working hard to survive giving the first resources to a magnificent place.
The importance of such characters allowed the installation of a Museum in the House of Salvador Dali which is today one of the most visited places in the municipality.Indeed the painter spent much of his life there in the Bay of Portlligat which was undoubtedly a relevant stage for his successful artistic career.
Not only the relationship with that famous genius is a highlight of that town of Catalonia but also its beautiful coastline and the local population deserve a great merit too.
The inhabitants have retained and preserved the charm of Cadaqués with a very sensitive concept to keep the beauty integrality of the local environment.
Historically in the town there was never a massive construction of buildings which could ruin the fascinating image of that splendid place and all that was another successful key despite the tourism was an important source.
There was since the beginning of the more intense tourist flows a notable preservation of the local environment which anyway did not stop the land of visitors but all thanks a clever organisation of an articulate tourism visiting that jewel of the Costa Brava was definitely very positive to keep what is visible today.
.
The close relationships with Duchamp and Dalí played an important role with a significant increase of cultural tourism which highlights the artist's house museum as a place of worship but that strategy of conservation also all around the municipality gave Cadaqués that special charm which the resort never lost.
The town is characterised by its narrow streets and its old centre with its charming white houses highlighted by blue shutters and the typical Rastell.
Walking through the old town you will notice that old pavement called Rastell a kind of handmade flooring with stones taken from the sea which have been shaped by the lapping waves and designed to absorb the water and prevent people from slipping.
Port Lligat is undoubtedly one of the main highlights.That small and picturesque bay famous for hosting the Dali House-Museum and artist haven for many years.In that place the visitor can have the great chance to visit that iconic exhibition but it is must to book prior the visit.
Generally the visit consists in groups of 8 people every 10 minutes and what it is possible to admire there is a true work of art.The best way to approach is from Cadaqués and in a pleasant walk in the meantime you can enjoy a beautiful view of the little gulf and the local island which was repeatedly portrayed by the great painter.
The Father's house of Salvador Dali is that building in which the Surrealist master grew up and for that reason when him and the sister Gala decided to go to fix their residence in Cadaqués the father used his influence in the town to prevent his son to live there.
Despite that,the prominent figure did not want to live somewhere else and so he bought a house in Port Lligat which is situated approximately at 3,0 kilometres from the town centre.
Initially the building was only a fisher men's cabin with a surface of 2,0 metres by 2,0 metres in a
cove frequented by fishermen and while his fortune grew the man decided to purchase a house next to that tiny construction.As you know Salvador Dalí born in Figueres in the year 1904, although his family was native of the current resort. Also for that the artist had a sort of special veneration for that place linked to strong familiar sentiments and he visited since when he was a child.In addition it was also the site which gave him his first deep inspirations becoming the centre in which in young age started to invent and create his masterpieces.
The artist became one of the greatest exponents of art and inside that house you can see the place in which he generated his outstanding creations including an unfinished work,a room with twin beds,the bedroom of the sister Gala, many stuffed animals and a large garden with more art and a relaxation space featuring a fountain.
On the beach of Port Lligat there is also a famous sculpture the boat and the Salvador Dalí cypress, honouring that great artist.
Although it is a place which increased its popularity year by year there are always many tourists who come to see the house-museum such as individuals but also in group with radial excursions from Barcelona,Girona and also from other seaside resorts of the Catalan coast,consisting in organised visits linked to that emblematic place.
Despite that the tranquillity of the town is not altered that stupendous small town has not a multitude of Hotels and accommodations and that is also a reason.
Perhaps the stillness of the Mediterranean,perhaps the serenity of the landscapes spread of harmony and peace to those who visit that remote corner of Costa Brava so different than other busy resorts.
Close to that fascinating local gulf there is a maze of narrow cobbled streets with traditional former white houses.
One of the monumental highlight is undoubtedly the Esglesia Santa Maria de Cadaqués the Parish Church of the town.
Erected between the 16th in and 17th century in Gothic style replacing an old former Religious construction which was destroyed by the famous Saracen pirate who raided the village in the year 1543.
After that sad event it was decided that a new local Sacred Temple would be rebuilt with the money of the local fishermen.
The architectonic style is perfectly in harmony with the rest of the nearest buildings situated in the highest point of the old quarter surrounded by picturesque streets and it is a charming dominant structure in a very charming scenery.
Its high facade is painted in white colour and on the front of the building there is is a round arched point and a rosette.The section of the nave closer to the facade is dated the 17th century and the Chapel Capella Fonda is younger,erected in the 18th century.
The bell tower arranged on a square plan with its octagonal top section is perfectly linked with the main body with splendid architectonic lines and as the Church perfectly integrated in the urban set.
A notable highlight you can admire inside is a magnificent Baroque altarpiece.The Church is also known for hosting the International Music Festival of Cadaqués with performances of famous nusicians musicians,composers and directors.
Very curious is a building located in front of that Religious Temple and it is called Cat Hotel.Cadaqués have always had many cats and you can see many walking all around all the municipality in every street and much more in proximity of the Church.
The building is the house of a lady named Gabrielle who looks after those animals and she became very famous in the town and nicknamed the Grandmother of the Cats.
The Museum of Cadaques located in Carrer Monturiol is another relevant attraction.It often organises temporary exhibitions related to cultural events and in many cases dedicated to the figure of Salvador Dali but also of other artists such as Picasso and Pitxot.
Another place worth a visit is the Shrine of San Baldirio located between Cadaques and Portlligat close to the present cemetery.
It is a building erected in Baroque style in the early 18th century.Formerly it was dedicated to the Saints Abdon and Senent remembering the found of the relics which according to the event related to the found in which they were saved by the inhabitants of the town after a shipwreck along the local coast.
Some houses of that centre are definitely a great highlight in particular developed using modernist architecture which is present in the town,That movement so famous in all Catalonia is linked to the great master Antoni Gaudí who left his distinctive mark and style in all Barcelona and in many places of that Comunidad.
That artist created authentic masterpieces including an artistic school known worldwide and also Cadaqués has some remarkable buildings linked to that magnificent architectonic movement such as the Casa Blaua (Blue House) and also Casa Serinyana.
Casa Blaua was erected between the years 1910 and 1913 and it is a landmark of the town reflecting that kind of Art Nouveau linked to the Catalan Modernisme in all its deep essence with splendid curved lines and it is probably the most spectacular construction present in the municipality.
The Torre Colom is another modernist building erected in the early 20th century and it is located in the street Avinguda Victor Rahola.
That tower was destroyed during the war and later was erected a flour mill which disappeared. When Mr. Gabriel Colom bought that land it lost its old name and it was called the tower or castle Colom.
Actually in ruins is another tower called Torre Creus (Cross Tower).It is an old watchtower originally erected on a square plan with ground and first floor.Built in the 17th century,it was destroyed,rebuilt and restored in different times.
In the past it had monitoring and signalling functions used during the Carlist Wars when women and children took refuge there escaping from the battles in the local territory.
The Oratorio de San Pio (the Oratory of St. Pius) is another site of interest.It is a charming small domed Sanctuary covering a plan developed on a Latin cross and it was built by the inhabitants to pay homage to Pope Pius V for the victory of in the famous Battle of Lepanto in the year 1571.
That relevant historic event saw protagonist also some locals in that famous alliance who defeated the fleet of the Ottoman Empire in Greece and for that was erected that Religious Temple honouring that famous battle.
On the waterfront you can admire a Salvador Dali bronze statue,a work by sculptor Ros Sabaté dated 1972 and ceded by the Captain John Peter Moore former secretary of the great artist.
Located on the southern side of the port is situated the Far de Cala Nans (the Lighthouse of Cala Nans) consisting in a small building with a white cylindrical tower which started to be operative in the year 1864.
Currently still running although it has not the importance of the past to indicate the routes along the coast and furthermore you will notice an abandoned small harbour which ceased to be operative in the 30s.
In the surroundings of the resort there many protected areas.The most important is the Nature Park of Cap de Creus which was established in the year 1998 and it is one of the most charming places of the entire Catalan community with a great diversity of flora and attractive underwater species.
Within the boundaries of that park it is possible to enjoy many different activities but worth a special mention diving and hiking.
Another site of particular interest is the marshes of the Empordà a place in which aquatic birds can be seen enjoying a very healthy habitat and that place is definitely a favourite destination for ornithologists and photographers.
Close to Cap de Creus on the eastern tip of the peninsula you can admire the iconic Faro,the Lighthouse considered the second oldest of Catalonia which became operative in the year 1853.In addition of further service to sailors today it is part of the local patrimony and it is also an information point of the local Nature Park.
That famous building was narrated in At the End of the World by the famed French writer Jules Verne in one of his novels.It is called Sant Joan Lighthouse Rescue and it was at first sight probably for all the magnificent natural scenery there is around an immediate inspiration for the great artist from Nantes.(I wrote a post in another post something about it in El Port de la Selva)
Culip Cove Creek is a property of the famous Tourist Organisation Club Mediterranee which is accessed by a visitor's pass.
Located near Cap de Creus,a few kilometres from the lighthouse and that place is historically famous for shipwrecks since the ancient Greek and Roman times when some vessels wrecked while they were trying to seek refuge there escaping from the strong winds.
The town has several beaches to enjoy.Platja Sa Conca is probably the most famous,it is located in the middle of the bay with a small harbour and it is 76,0 metres long.The water is very clean and the splendid sandy space is flanked by large rocks.
Platja Port D´Alguer is another one,ideal for families with children it is over 130,0 metres long and located opposite the Church of Santa Maria in a corner in which you can see several fishing boats.
Platja de Sagi is also very popular,known for its views of the town.Located in a central position of the gulf it is over 100,0 metres long but not very wide.Generally it is is very peaceful and not too busy except obviously in July and August.
Cala Freda is a very small cove located in a rocky inlet with small cliffs.It is only 10,0 metres long and 8,0 metres wide while Platja Llané Gran i Petit is a busy beach generally occupied by small boats and it is 82,0 metres long.
The beach S'Arenella situated in an islet right in front of Cadaqués bay is a sandy stretch 51,0 metres long lined by crystalline waters famous for its white sands and particularly loved by locals since long time ago.
All the area surrounding the resort is great to practise water sports with ideal places to enjoy scuba diving,sailing and including windsurfing.
Additionally you can practise other outdoor activities around Cadaqués such as trekking,mountain bike riding and also Golf in Castelló d'Empuries,
Cadaqués is furthermore a sort of an ideal and great base to explore the rest of the Alt Empordà full of historical sites,natural areas and abundant unusual archaeological sites,Monasteries,Churches,picturesque villages and charming forests.
About folklore and traditions,local women traditionally fetched water using a glazed earthenware jug on their heads covered with a protective cloth.
The traditional local cuisine is typically Catalan -Mediterranean.In the local restaurants is possible to taste the typical regional specialities highly reputed for their quality and fresh products.
The rich tradition of the Empordà cuisine is well represented there with delicious fish stews,Arroz de Marisco (seafood rice) or Arroz Neigre (Rice with cuttlefish) and several casserole specialities.
The Suquet de Peix is a fish stew flavoured by onion,garlic,pepper and parsley adding tomatoes and very similar to the Genoese Buridda.Another speciality pretty famous is the Congre amb Pèsols a plate consisting in conger fish combined with peas.Notable is also the quality of mussels,clams,prawns and excellent is also the Choco Frito. (fried squid)
The Ollada is a traditional local recipe,a meat stew combined with boiling vegetables in casserole including carrots,beans,potatoes and artichokes.
Another typical soup is the Escudella consisting in rice or pasta which can be accompanied by meat and sausages as the local Butifarra and vegetables such as celery,carrots and cabbage.
Very popular is also the Coca similar to that one made in the Balearic islands.It is a sort of Focaccia combined with different ingredients as vegetables,cheese,fish and also meat or sausages.The Botifarra Dolça is a variant of the traditional Butifarra less spicy and it is prepared fried and served as a snack or appetiser.
Excellent is also the production of cakes and desserts among the most famed and popular worth a mention the Brunyols,Taps (a traditional recipe of Cadaqués) Flaones and the famous Crema Catalana.
The Empordà area thanks to its climate deal altitude and fertile soil produces excellent grapes which are the great result of a relevant production of fine rosé wines,among which include the great Novell.
Furthermore there are also exceptional wines as the famed Garnatxa or an excellent Moscatel while relevant are also the local Chardonnay,Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Apart that wide selection worth to be mentioned others such as Sirà,Macabeu and also a local Malvasia.Some other young reds are fruity and light and very appreciated.
Cadaqués is situated approximately 50 minutes away driving from Girona Costa Brava International Airport and you can easily reach the town by bus services from that city or renting a car in a very short time you will reach that idyllic place.
The resort is a very inspiring place confused between the immensity of the Mediterranean sea which is as a big sweet partner and the Catalan mountains which are a sort of guards defending it.
That bay,the old town and all that is included in a magic scenery was the real source who fascinated Dalí,the painters and the artists of international fame who after a visit wanted to come back as soon as possible in that enchanting tiny paradise,a little Eden ideal site to take the most deep inspirations.
The silent evenings,a soft and cool Mediterranean breeze,excellent gastronomy,marvellous beaches,the beauty of Cap de Creus sublime and charming and the myth of Salvador Dali in that beloved and scenic haven of the most genuine Costa Brava all together are a million of reasons to decide to visit Cadaqués.
Spending some days in relax in that small town so special is something simply great and once there you will immediately understand why that place is so unique in its kind.
Frsncesco Mari
Recommended Hotels in Cadaqués
Hotel Rocamar
Hotel Blaumar
Hotel Octavia
Hotel d´Aguarda
www.cadaques.cat
www.visitcadaques.org
www.rocamar.com
www.hotelblaumar.com
www.hoteloctavia.net/es
www.easyviajar.com
No comments:
Post a Comment
Thanks a lot to read and note.