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Villefranche-sur-Mer | Fashionable Picture of the Eastern Côte d´Azur.



Villefranche-sur-Mer is a superb fashionable picture in the magnificent and luminous scenery of the Eastern Côte d´ Azur, that ravishing and sunny French Mediterranean coastline which in all its history has always been a sort of sublime dreamland for artists and romantic people who found in that coastal paradise a marvellous haven and an everlasting love after enjoyable stays with the extreme desire to return in that place once again.

Sailing offshore from the local superb coast or also looking at that town from the scenic promontory of Cap Ferrat immediately the impression is that you are facing a little Eden, at distance its arched bay with its charming harbour give that very appealing resort an enchanting image very difficult to forget or better so easy to remember and eternally present in sweet and pleasant memories.

Situated halfway between the charming Nice and the glitzy Principality of Monaco, Villefranche-sur-Mer thanks to its magnificent geographic position enclosed between Cap de Nice and Cap Ferrat in the famed and ravishing French Riviera is fascinating resort is certainly less glamorous than Saint-Tropez, not sophisticated as Cannes and neither demanded as Antibes, but it is equally a true shining gem able to conquer every tourist in a while.

 Many visitors consider it as one of the most captivating spots of that Southern French Region and it is not a case that its image is often imimmortalised by painters or frequently appearing in some covers. (If you are interested I wrote posts regarding those three destinations previously mentioned)

A simple walk strolling its fascinating streets or along the quays of its charming harbour, the iconic La Darse, those places immediately transmit very pleasant feelings and something of extremely special, all around them there is always as a magic aura donating beautiful sensations breathing the true and fascinating atmosphere of that picturesque and appealing site which is greatly fascinating every season, 365 days a year.

 Another charismatic detail is that unmistakable smell emanated by the fragrance of the several maritime pines, Mediterranean plants and herbs coming from the nearest hills and all that is melted with an everlasting cool breeze, that incomparable tonality of a wonderful blue sea highlighting that fashionable picture of the Côte d´Azur making that corner of  France simply irresistible.

The three Corniches, those panoramic and striking mountainous stretches which divide that spectacular resort and the nearest Nice from the Italian border are part of a spectacular frame next to the appealing silhouette of Mont- Louze, a very scenic height overlooking the fabulous rade the local bay which is so famous to be one of the deepest of that French coast frequent destination of the most passionate divers.

With its approximately 5,500 inhabitants that stupendous commune, pearl of the Alpes-Maritimes Department is a perfect destination for all the tourists who want to be delighted by an image which can bewitch everyone and the beautiful silhouettes of the peaks Mont Alban, Mont Boron and Mont Vinaigrier complete a scenery absolutely astonishing, forming all together a stupendous crown  boasting stunning colours  highlighted in several striking sunsets when the sun rays fall on their summits creating pictures which could be immortalised in a painting by Claude Monet.

A mild climate all year is a great incentive to visit that place without hesitations and for that and much more Villefranche-sur-Mer reflects all the beauty and fascination in a nutshell of the Provence Alpes Côte D´Azur region, ideal destination for romantic couples who desire to spend a fantastic short break or an unforgettable honeymoon very significant.

In addition that shining gem is also a place which in all its splendour is very suggested for those who love water sports, photographers, people, tourists who are searching something of greatly attractive and they often have doubts of choice about a destination and also for all the visitors who are very interested in art and history thanks to the presence of a more than relevant monumental patrimony in its boundaries and naturally for who is looking for a paradise, perfect to enjoy sunny holidays in a resort unique in its kind.

Many are also the chances to visit fabulous places in the immediate proximity with radial excursions also abroad as in the nearest Italy with the fascinating Riviera dei Fiori highlighted by the beauty of towns as Sanremo and Bordighera along a striking coastline beneath flowered terraces established on high slopes at the foothill of the Maritime Alps. 

Magnificent accommodations and excellent communications are further superb qualities and features of Villefranche-sur-Mer which in addition offers great chances for who is a gastronomy lover boasting a refined cuisine rich in flavours and taste delighting all the most demanding palates and in addition simply great is also the opportunity to live during a stay a considerable calendar of events and proposals with many cultural appointments of relevance.

The charm of that resort captured important people of the International Jet Set who live or lived in that paradise and it is enough to mention some well known characters such as Elton John, Tina Turner, the U2 leader Bono, Keith Richards, the Rolling Stones guitarist and in most remote times also the famous artist Jean Cocteau often visited that wonderful coastal jewel falling in love for its superb beauty.

Apart the natural enchanting aspect that place also has a secular history to narrate since when it was explored by an ancient civilisation as the Phoenicians who developed along that French coastline an important network of maritime trade around the flourishing Massalia the current city of Marseilles leaving all that after a notable business and several discovered routes a great inheritance to the Greeks which continued those relevant activities started by those important predecessors.

That geographic area was also populated by Ligurian settlers a Celtic population who was assimilated by the Roman Empire during the colonisation of that land during those famous campaign led by Julius Caesar corresponding to the conquest of the Gaul and Villefranche-sur-Mer was since then inserted as a considerable stage connected to the Via Aurelia, one of the Consular roads established to link Rome to its northwestern domains.

The Romans also founded there a settlement giving it the name of Olivula Portus, the port of the olives and that denomination was selected for the rich presence of olive groves scattered in that chain of picturesque hills overlooking the local boundaries. 

A further operation by the Imperial Rome was the establishment of a strategic dock to host the vessels which transported fish and vegetables from and to the important centre of Pisa in Tuscany but later also used for military issues to supply of food and drinkable water the legions who were in transit towards the coasts of the old Hispania, the current Spain.

During its history just like the city of Nice and all the nearest towns and villages founded on that coastline the current resort was attacked by the Vandals and that event was one of the causes of the decay and fall of Rome. Also the Saracens later reached the North Mediterranean with constant incursions and assaults generating a very unsafe situation for the locals obliged to escape in the interior due to continuous raids and consequent devastationn.

The first Carolingian dynasty with the Franks who occupied that area after long clashes against the Moors re-established the order incorporating that land in the Holy Roman Empire and that period was protagonists of a very flourishing era with a marked territorial identity. 

The history of the current seaside resort also had a notable success during the period in which the influential Dukes D´Anjou especially with Charles II in the 13th century released that territory by pirates and corsairs who for a long period attacked and ravaged the coastal centres of the Côte d´Azur.

That man played an important role becoming later King of Naples where he died in 1309, a controversial figure notorious for his clashes with the Aragonese House who imprisoned him for a period, for the constant meetings with the Papal State and his diatribes with Philip of Savoy for different reasons linked to aristocratic titles and inheritances of the dynasties.

Villefranche-sur-Mer became stronghold of that noble House which also with his descendants formed the dynasty of the Counts of Provence which also established for a period excellent relationships with the powerful Marine Republic of Genoa gaining a solid stability and a pretty prosperous life with a very active commerce.

That Duchy gave importance to the current resort protection, a new architectural image with also a civilian development, the Anjou rulers including repopulated a centre which was pretty uninhabited due to several migrations towards bigger centres as Nice and giving it a certain fiscal autonomy.

 It was since then the current name Ville Franche, became a free City as its name says while the term sur mer is pretty recent, added in the 80s to identify and differentiating that town on the Mediterranean from other homonyms municipalities existing in the French maps. 

In the 14th century that site moved under influence of the Duchy of Savoy, which later became the former Kingdom of Piedmont and Sardinia and of Italy, a Reign which was in that period in constant expansion towards new lands searching strategic accesses to the sea.In that time those new rulers renamed that centre in Italian, calling it Villafranca Marittima and those Dukes remodelled the old harbour enlarging and equipping it with new strong quays establishing new commercial routes before to fix in Nice all the most important operations in the 18th century.

During those centuries of Savoy domain the town was often attacked by the Ottomans and Spaniards and later by France. The Savoy House for long time tried to defend that stronghold with Officers and Admirals strategically very well prepared and with a relevant army and a defencive line provided by artillery divisions placed on the local heights with the elevation of several check points.

That fortified town had as focal point a Citadel called Saint-Elme and also a fortress called Fort du Mont Alban situated in proximity of Nice which automatically protected Villefranche-sur-Mer from another cardinal point and that sort of impenetrable defencive network was structured as a kind of shield between the sea and the mainland. Also the harbour had in the course of that rule a consistent and progressive expansion increasing in size and reaching a notable capacity to host an important fleet.

The resort which is today a famed stage and stop of several Cruises was in those years despite attacks from different enemies, pioneer of that branch of tourism started to be developed at the beginning of the 19th century a kind of Incoming tourism with the frequent presence in its boundaries of prominent and aristocratic Russian and British families landed on the local bay to visit that town.

Russia had since then a particular and special relationship with that current French resort and historically was stipulated an agreement between the Savoy House and that Eastern European country by a treaty dated 1856 in which the Tsars could use the local port  in occasion of the war against the Ottoman Empire. 

In that period the Dukes permitted to the Imperial Russian navy to place its ships in the Mediterranean because Turkey in that period blocked the access to the Bosporus strait and due to that operation the Russian needed a way to jump that obstacle created by that Turkish strategy. 

Despite the efforts of the Duke Emmanuel Philbert to defend that centre the town fell under French influence in some occasions, the last one and definitive in the 19th century when in 1860 after a treaty it was officially incorporated in the Republic of France leaving the Kingdom of Sardinia and Piedmont in a date corresponding to just one year before of  the proclamation of the the Reign of Italy.

That alliance with the Tsars was also adopted by the French Goverment who did not want to interrupt good diplomatic relationships with that powerful Nation and the use of the harbour by the Russian army endured until 1930.

In more contemporary times the port was mainly used for research issues by Marine Scientists and the military operations with that partnership and collaboration finished some years before of the 2nd World in a concrete  period when the American Navy was hosted there with the USA 6th Marine fleet.

Linked for long time to the city of Nice, that French centre has always had a strong historic and cultural links with the capital of the Côte d´Azur and the local inhabitants also speak the same language, the Niçoise, they have same gastronomy, traditions, a parallel common history and the town is also called using the autochtone linguistic form  Vilafranca de Mar as in old times.

The Port de la Darse with its historic past and events which saw it as protagonist during its  long history is certainly a distinctive landmark and a more than iconic local symbol. The importance of the maritime traffic and the Tourism Industry generated a notable presence of cruises companies, several yachts and many private boats are often docked in that site and there was a notable development of important shipyards groups.

 In addition along its quays was also established the notorious Ocean Observatory which works in a constant partnership and cooperation with the Université Pierre et Marie Curie of Paris and all that made that Villefranche-sur-Mer played since then an important and vital role at national scale.

The splendid marina is also often used as sporting harbour hosting regattas and events related and despite less than in the past in minor part for fishing activities. In February every year since 1902 in that place takes place the folk event Le Combat naval fleuri celebrated in Port de la Santé consisting in the old fishing harbour immediately situated at the foot of the old town which represent in its kind the fishing historic soul of the resort. 

That famed appointment in the Eastern Côte d´Azur consists in a parade of traditional local boats called Pontute totally decorated with flowers with their crews parading in the port, a great lively feast very animated, boasting an extraordinary coloured atmosphere completed by a large participation of people, music bands and parades of majorettes. 

In that place you can admire a bronze sculpture depicting Jean Cocteau established in the municipality in 1989. It is a work by the artist Cyril de la Patellière, a renowned sculptor protagonist of relevant works also in Nice, Menton and in the Principality of Monaco among many others places.

Very close is situated the Chapelle Saint-Pierre, a small but beautiful Church erected in the 16th  century dedicated to St. Peter and it is one of the most important Ecclesiastic buildings elevated in the town characterised by numerous beautiful architectural details.

Developed on a rectangular base, one of its great highlights is its marvellous decorated facade greatly highlighted by charming arched windows and a beautiful portal. On the upper section of the front side you can see a statue of the Saint placed inside a niche beneath a gable roof surmounted by a small belfry topped by an iron cross.

That enchanting chapel is also very famous for the splendid frescoes painted by Jean Cocteau and Jean Paul Brussuet and it was inaugurated once ended the works with a mass celebrated on the  30th of June 1957.

That Religious building was declared Historic monument in 1996 and it is a property of the Prud´homie de Pêcheurs an organisation of fishermen with a long old history officially started in medieval times, exactly the 14th century.

Very relevant for its immense artistic value is the Église Saint Michel, the Church dedicated to St. Michael which was originally built in Romanesque style in the Middle Ages concretely in the 14th century on a Latin cross plan but totally rebuilt  with laborious works which started in 1732 and ended in 1757 due to a total deterioration of the former Medieval structure, probably fell in decay for lack of funds.

The current aspect of that Religious building you can see nowadays is typically Baroque due to that architectonic change dated the 18th century and that sacred temple consists in a nave, an ample light red facade with decorated tails on the upper section and light sides. 

On the top of the central body was placed a large pediment added to the front side depicting inside an image of the Saint.You will notice that is in the construction there is a use of the traditional ochre tonality in some vertical lines and outlines and the same tonality was used for the adjacent bell tower consisting in a fine Baroque structure highlighted by a large watch with Roman numbers surmounted on its terminal section by a polygonal element topped by a coloured small dome.

The interior of that Church is pretty austere but well conserved thanks to a restoration dated the 18th century. It contains among its treasures a sculpture and a painting depicting St. Michael of the same century which are the main highlights of that Sacred construction declared in the 90s Historic Monument of France.  

If the port is the maritime symbol and the Église de St. Michel is the Religious icon of the municipality, the Citadelle Saint-Elme is the historic defencive military former core and heart of the town attacked several times during its history.

That impressive construction is dated the 16th century and it was a work commissioned by  King Charles V to an Italian architect called Giovanni Maria Olgiati who was well known as a renowned engineer in the Duchy of Milan and furthermore in the Marine Republic of Genoa where he projected the walled defencive perimeter in the times of the famed Admiral Andrea Doria.

That citadel was built using some techniques of the past as rampant filled with soil, very high walls and all the sentry-boxes were connected by a pedestrian path around its perimeter. Still visible are the watch towers all perfectly arranged overlooking the Mediterranean with views covering all the cardinal points.

The interior has a very huge courtyard created as a large area to permit the mobility and the transport of munitions and weapons providing the batteries of artillery placed on the rampant.Undoubtedly  it was a more than relevant emancipated and advanced work in that time because in the past many other similar defencive structures had not a suitable space for those operations due a lack of space which frequently generated several logistic problems moving in their interiors equipments with several difficulties.

That kind of fortress was perfectly designed to repel the numerous attacks of the Ottomans in the 16th century and after some important and successful and heroic defence it had some restorations. All that happened when the Dukes of Savoy decided to give more relevance to improve a reinforced construction using new strong materials and giving it a new image to its former layout and some of the old remnants were used to build the iconic fortress of Montalban which served to protect Nice. 

When Villefranche-sur-Mer became a French domain, the Government used that stronghold as headquarter of a military regiment and after other arrangements which took place in 70's  and 80's  that site became a seat devoted to municipal activities such as events, meetings, seminars and the presence of a theatre  hosting performances with a rich cultural calendar was a further additional operation managed by the local Institutions with the aim to consolidate the historic value of a structure which was for a long time the lively beating heart of an entire community.

That emblematic construction also houses the Town Hall and the Museum Goetz-Boumesteer. If you are interested to visit that exhibition  it displays a splendid collection with some works by a notorious French American painter and engraver Henry Goetz. In addition the Citadelle Saint-Elme has a large Auditorium and since 2009 it hosts Franchement Art, an event celebrated in collaboration with the famous Institution NICEXPO.

The famous Rue Obscure, the dark street flanking a rampant of that fortress is another local highlight declared in 1932 Historic National Patrimony. That iconic street is a great historic and scenic attraction, consisting in a sort of tunnel built in the 13th century and restored one century later.

Established in 1260 for military purposes to facilitate a rapid passage of the troops it is just 130, 0 metres long and it was projected to cover the soldiers by the enemy fire and used for the change of the guards and patrols operations.Originally Rue Obscure had four doors although nowadays only one is visible and that hallway has a series of arches holding up the roof with furthermore a presence of scenic lanterns.

Certainly a walk along that distinctive street is very fascinating remembering the old times of that site, as the citadel, that site is also a historic emblem of epic defences of a town which suffered many sieges and including for someone it is also pretty romantic at evening with that captivating artificial soft light highlighting that medieval artery.   

That Southern French municipality is also a fashionable green centre for the stunning presence of several elegant, stylish and well preserved gardens some of them very suitable to spend relaxing times enjoying peaceful walks in the shade of several trees, very charming places rich of  a lush and beautiful Mediterranean vegetation.

Some of the most important are Jardin Binon, Jardin de la Citadelle, the Jardin de Narwick and the Jardin Saint Michel, all them are very well cared and they give all together further charm to the splendid environment of the resort forming a sort of appealing frame in different urban corners delighting with their presence many visitors who find apart the beauty of the coastline and the historic centre also those large verdant lungs packed by splendid plants and flowers.

Another great aspect of that French town is its historic centre with picturesque small squares and captivating narrow streets but also beautiful villas and mansions which give that resort an extremely fasshionable aspect.

The most famous is certainly the iconic Villa Leopolda, one of the superb attractions part of that fashionable picture of the Eastern Côte D´Azur  that town offers in all its splendour.

That stupendous building was erected by an American Architect from Boston called Ogden Codman who finished his great work in 1931. The high facade is very impressive with a majestic pediment established on its upper side, refined lines and a symmetrical series of large windows placed with taste all around the walls.Very scenic is the presence of two polygonal turrets flanking the mansion entirely surrounded by pines and cypresses.

That beautiful Belle Époque villa had prominent owners as the King of Belgium Leopold I and from that Monarch it took the current name.In addition it was a property of Agnelli Family, the famous Italian Magnates and owners of Fiat Group from Turin who were frequent visitors of Vilefranche also due to the love of those Torinese Magnates for nautical activities.

Villa Leopolda is furthermore famed for another topic, it is considered the mansion more expensive of the world and many are the reasons which determined the incomparable value of that masterpiece such as its location, refined and classy architectural image, the presence of a huge and fabulous marvellous garden and the stunning position dominating the Mediterranean Sea boasting wonderful views.

Closely related to that, the villa also conquered the Film Industry and it was used by the famed English filmmaker Alfred Hitchcock when that outstanding construction was set of the famous scenes of the movie To Catch a Thief, a successful masterpiece by that notorious British character produced in 1955.

Regarding other aspects directly linked to movies, that fashionable town of the French Riviera was also protagonist in Ronin another famous film dating back 1998 directed by John Frankenheimer starring Robert De Niro and it was also the seat in which was were filmed some scenes of Never say Never Again that famous successful movie starring Sean Connery in which that famed Scottish actor was James Bond.

Very recommended during a stay is the visit of some picturesque sites so ideal for romantic couples who want to be delighted by spectacular sunsets and reflections which are also great highlights of the enchanting Villefranche-sur-Mer.

One of them I suggest you is immediately off the harbour along Chemin du Lazaret, a magnificent walkway which offers fabulous views of the local coastline characterised in that point by small charming inlets, tiny sharp headlands and facing the stunning Baie de L´Espalmador a striking bay of extreme fascination.

Continuing further south you can reach Pointe Madame, a rounded promontory with a magnificent view overlooking the port offering you an unforgettable wide panoramic of the local gulf and also from there you can take a multitude of unforgettable pictures of the magnificent Cap Ferrat.Another pretty suggestive walk I recommend is immediately over the port taking Chemin de la Darse and along that road you can enjoy a wonderful image of that beautiful resort from another scenic perspective.

Rowing, sailing and also diving are activities very practised in that resort and the latter is particularly famous for some relevant International competitions among them World Championships and including the town is well known for some World records established in the local bay.

The municipality also boasts two marvellous beaches you can not miss called Plage de la Darse and Plage de Marinierès very well known in the entire Eastern Côte d´Azur.

The first is situated not far from the Ocean Observatory on the western side of the gulf next to the harbour; it is a small pebbled beach but very loved by many people because it is very close to the centre and for its wonderful views and maintenance

The second is situated in opposite direction at east of the core of the municipality close to a scenic small promontory which forms a beautiful bay with another headland situated in proximity of Boulevard Napoleon III.It is a beautiful sandy stretch approximately 1, 0 kilometre long very appealing for its arched shape and its spectacular position beneath the picturesque hilly plateau of the La Corniche and it is one of the most photographed sites for tourist spots and promotions of that seaside resort. 

Another local highlight playing a role of relevance and delighting a myriad of visitors is the delicious and refined cuisine traditionally close to the Niçoise gastronomy. 

Very typical is the more than appreciated Pissaladiere a kind of Focaccia containing anchovies, garlic, onion and olives and equally great is the famed Socca very similar to the Genoese Focaccia and in something related to the Farinata. Excellent as snack or appetiser with a glass of fine wine or combined in an assorted starter with ham and salami.

Other traditional specialities are the Soup de Poisson an exquisite fish soup very appreciated and naturally do not miss to try the emblematic  Salade Niçoise, a very healthy mixed salad containing olive, tuna, basil, anchovies, tomatoes, onion, garlic and eggs. 

Other traditional dishes pretty famous are the excellent notorious Ratatouille and the delectable Tapenade.The local culinary art offers a wide variety of grilled, fried and baked fish, fresh mussels and a vast range of plates which reflects the old seafaring tradition and spirit and worth a mention the great quality of local basil often used in a multitude of soups, sauces and many delectable specialities.

The famous Beignets as dessert is very popular and regarding excellent fine wines worth to be mentioned some of high quality such as Cassis, Ellet and Bandol among others. 

The wines of the Côte d´Azur and Provence are simply great, smooth with body and highly palatable, very classy and totally guaranteed for their secular prestige to accompany your meals during a glad stay. Many of them have the superb feature to be very versatile, not too strong, boasting fantastic texture and body and a magnificent tonality, symbol of very healthy grapes.

In the case you are thinking in your next holidays and that place is among your favourite or you are simply interested I added below some links could help you to plan your ideas and itineraries with also some suggested accommodations.

Villefranche-sur-Mer is situated just 8, 0 kilometres from the boundaries of Nice so at a very short distance from the famous capital of the Côte D´Azur. The International Aéroport Nice Côte d´Azur is located just 14, 0 kilometres away and in less than half hour by A8 Motorway you will reach in a very easy way the resort.

That little pearl of the French Riviera is a town with a relevant history and a huge number of attractions combined with charming landscapes absolutely wonderful able to transmit at first sight the most enjoyable vibrations and sensations is certainly a place which will capture in a while your attention, loving it in a while.

The local harbour and its enchanting waterfront, the magnificent hilly landscapes of the splendid Corniche are all together part of a fashionable picture of the Eastern Côte d´Azur and Villefranche-sur-Mer is definitely a great destination representing the sublime image of a corner of a captivating and pleasant coast to remember forever.

Francesco Mari

Recommended Hotels in Villefranche-sur Mer

Hotel La Fiancee du Pirate
Hotel Patricia
Hotel Villa Vauban
Hotel Le Versailles
Hotel La Darse

Useful links


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