Thaxted | Step Back in Time to a Picturesque British Town.




Thaxted is a perfect destination to enjoy a great step back in time to a picturesque British town reflecting with its splendid image greatly preserved the fascinating spirit of the old Britain highlighted by a very relaxing atmosphere, idyllic landscapes, a considerable historic patrimony and a strong identity shown with immense pride.

Situated in the verdant charming County of  Essex, part of  Uttlesford district Council  at just one hour driving from London downtown, that small centre of approximately 2,500 is very close to another little, English gem of England called Saffron Walden and not far from the magnificent Cambridge, seat of one of the most emblematic Universities in the world which lies at just 45 minutes driving away.

Visiting a centre like Thaxted is very special because you will immediately breathe in its boundaries that unmistakable, magic aura of a site with a secular history started in the Middle Ages with a good number of outstanding, architectural monuments next to some stylish buildings erected in different periods boasting a notable value.

All around its core in addition you will be enchanted by the view of a spectacular, immaculate countryside packed by virgin,uncontaminated forests,scenic low hills overlooking large green meadows and also that great, natural setting is a further, pleasant accent which increases the appeal of that English town.

Next to those attractions  you will also find excellent gastropubs offering a typical, exquisite gastronomy, comfortable Hotels encircled by a stupendous nature delighting your stay, structures very well located offering the brilliant incentive to plan several radial excursions or in the case you are enjoying a tailor made tour, simply perfect as strategic stage along a significant route in proximity of the capital of the country.

Very interesting is the historic past of that British municipality which was a very prosperous settlement since ancient times under Saxon rule in a land in which that Germanic population founded in the 6th century one of its Reigns corresponding to the Eastern Kingdom south of the River Thames and east of the North Sea, a civilisations which left a notable, cultural mark in the Southern territories of Great Britain.

The former village was already well known as a very active, lively centre since medieval times during the period of King Sæberth who reigned that land from 604 to 616, well known to have been the first Saxon Monarch converted to Christianity baptised by Mellitus, a notorious Gaulish churchman consecrated by Augustine of Canterbury who became the First Bishop of London.

In 1086 that centre was recorded in the Domesday book with the name Tachesteda which translated means place where thatch was got, a relevant inscription in an iconic archive which certifies the importance of that site in England.

An important market arose the early 13th century, when in 1205 Thaxted reached an indisputable  prestige becoming a hub of busy commercial traffics mainly devoted to agricultural products such as grain, corn, wheat but also livestock calling in its boundaries several traders from the entire Essex, Kent and including from London. 

Thanks to its strategic, geographic position that site was inserted on a considerable route by many merchants as favourite stage for the presence of those important activities  leading to London but also chosen as stop by prominent people linked to the highest cultural sphere due to the proximity of other important towns as the iconic Cambridge.

Many were the people who coming from north stopped in Thaxted lying on the road towards  Colchester which has always been a relevant, cultural centre since the period of the Roman Empire when in 49 it became the oldest Roman town in Britain  with the elevation of the emblematic fortress of Camulodunum, ancient name of the former settlement also known as Colonia Victricensis.

For all that and more that centre gained a notorious fame and much more between the 13th and 14th centuries when it had a remarkable expansion elevating itself as one of the most important focal points of the country about cutlery manufacture. 

The presence of a small village at less of two kilometres from Thaxted called Cutler´s Green confirms all that.

For a long period Thaxted was the major hub of the entire England regarding that activity replaced later by Sheffield, that important city of South Yorkshire which also started in medieval times that very significant business.

In the 19th century that municipality of Essex thanks to the presence of a very productive windmill re-lived a second cycle of golden ages with the trade of flour and in 1913 was developed in its boundaries, the Elsenham & Thaxted Light Railway which despite almost four decades of relevant success was closed to passenger in 1952 due to the growth of road transport.

The captivating beating heart of that centre is mainly developed around Town Street and Park Street while Mill End at east next Bolford Street represent the western belt of Thaxted, two relevant arteries which connect the extra radius to the centre of the town. 

You can start the visit in the first mentioned street where you can visit the Tourism Office,  ideal place to collect very interesting information also regarding the immediate surroundings to plan other visits during your stay.

In a while taking a look all around you will immediately notice a relevant number of stylish old, buildings attesting with their presence a notable, artistic activity including in the local boundaries were established some manors, the  largest was Thaxted Manor which was originallly situated southwest of the present Town Street.

The earliest record of a Religious construction was the elevation in the Middle Ages of a beautiful, majestic Christian Temple, St. John Church erected in 981 but replaced by a new one, that you can see nowadays established on the foundations of the previous with the money coming from the very flourishing cutlery activities highly consolidated four centuries later.


That superb Gothic marvel you can admire nowadays is situated in a pleasant, well cared wide, green space, a stunning masterpiece which started to be developed in the mid-14th century.

At the beginning of the 16th century it was pretty renowned with the addition of a magnificent flying buttressed spire which is one of its major highlights, approximately 55, 0 meters high, the oldest stone spire in the county, a local, emblematic symbol and thanks to that outstanding, architectural detail the Church is often referred as Cathedral of Essex.  

Developed on a large polygonal plan the impressive, huge front side is highlighted by the presence of a wonderful arched portal with a small annexed portico established beneath two splendid, stained glass windows with a fine, outlined decoration all around highlighted by stunning inlays works while on the top you can admire a very attractive crenellated block highlighting the upper section of the structure.

Very relevant are the perfect, elaborated architectural lines of the imposing square tower and you will notice especially in the layout of the main facade all the traditional canons closely linked to the most sublime, British, Gothic architecture.

St. John Church also shows many other fine works of high artistic school, one of them is a series of charming perpendicular windows with a wonderful masterpiece representing the history of human life with Adam and Eve.  

The decorations executed on the walls is simply fabulous with a succession of symmetrical large curved windows with a special mention to one situated on the right side of the main doorway highly scenic for its huge size.

Magnificent is also the interior with majestic columns forming superb arcades, stupendous artistic highlights are in addition a relevant carved pulpit and a great timber ceiling.

The large nave is very luminous thanks to the presence along the aisles of  beautiful, wide stained glass windows which greatly transmit exterior lights to the spacious apse illuminating the altar established beneath a wonderful arch.

In front of that majestic Sacred construction you can admire Clarence House, another representative building of Thaxted erected in the 18th century

That fine construction shows in all its architectural details the typical style in use in that period, that  traditional movement referred to  Queen Anne of England in times in which numerous, prominent British architects were protagonists of a very active, artistic life all around that county elevating those kinds of buildings.


That kind of execution was characterised by series of symmetrical windows generally placed on two levels of the structures flanking and above the main entrance with a large use of brick as main material of construction and all that is highly visible in that construction  perfectly preserved.

A short distance from that site, walking on one side of St. John Church in an adjacent picturesque narrow street you will be delighted by the presence of coloured, picturesque houses called Almshouses built in the 18th century. 

One of them is a, beautiful light red with a tendency to a pink tonality building covered by a long gray roof  still known as the Chantry originally erected to host some Priests purchased by the Conrad Noel, Vicar of Thaxted from 1910 to 1942, a character from Kew, London who was well known with the nickname, "The Red Vicar"for his ideas linked to a Christian Socialism.

That man was a member of the Independent Labour Party but in 1911 he became a founding member of the British Socialist Party supporting the Provisional Committee for the Defence of Leon Trotsky, Soviet politician, Marxist, revolutionary, founding leader of the Red Army.

Noel was in his kind a very peculiar figure because despite exponent of the highest Ecclesiastic sphere of Great Britain favoured the impact of the Trotskyism in the United Kingdom.

In addition  in 1909 was edited a publication titled Ought Christians to be Socialist ? a transcript of a debate between him and Frank Jannaway, a notorious Christadelphian, English writer. 

Thaxted with that Vicar also lived a notorious episode which reached all the British borders but also with resonance abroad called "The Battle of the flags" when Noel hung within the walls of St.John Church alongside the Flag of St. George,  the Red Marxist flag and that of Sinn Féin representing the Irish Republican party very active in Northern Ireland.

That event provoked a reaction of many students from Cambridge who attacked the Church to take off those symbols considered offencive towards the image of the United Kingdom and since then Thaxted was also known as the town of the Red Vicar.

The second house is very captivating for a beautiful, decorated gable facade with an attractive line of high chimneys on its roof. In 1830 it was inhabited by some old people among them, a man with his wife, 13 widows and a maid.

From there after that very pleasant view you will reach in a while Mill Row walking in a corner which resembles a bit to The Netherlands, especially reminiscent that of Volendam and Marken.

That similarity is furthermore highlighted by the presence of John Webb's Windmill which is another of the splendid local attractions of that centre.

Built in 1804 that traditional windmill very similar to a typical Dutch for size, height, plan and material used for its development located in a beautiful rectangular green area, a building which played an important role in the community as hub of one of most important local activity started in the early 19th century.

Its elevation was due to a very demanding request of flour by the most important markets of London and immediate surroundings corresponding to many towns of Essex. 

According to historic documentations that windmill had as first owner a miller called Lowe, since its inception it produced an enormous quantity of that product satisfying all the needs of that vast territorial area including a large part of the East area of the British Capital managed later by John Webb who gave that structure his name.

The construction was elevated on five levels using local timber from two farms, bricks   cast iron all materials assembled together forming a very imposing, solid structure, a great five storey tower mill with a domed upper section, a gallery while the lower floors were used as a scout hut.

It continued to work until 1910, after some decades of abandone since the 1950s it  became a property of Parish Thaxted Council and in 1964 it was managed by the Thaxted Society, an Institution formed in that year sensistive to preserve that local emblem.

Today it is very well preserved, the last restoration to conserve tha localt icon took place in very recent times exactly in 2004 when the sails and cup were removed to refurbish the top of the structure, reopening its doors on 8th April 2005 thanks to John Patrick Lionel Petre, 18th Baron Petre.
  
After that great view returning to Town Street you can admire another of the medieval buildings and landmarks of the municipality ; Thaxted Guildhall, a very captivating, light house erected in 1390 originally used as marketplace and later for social meetings.

Developed on a wide rectangular plan, that constructions was elevated on three levels including the ground floor, it boasts a splendid, paved ground floor beneath a beautiful portico forming a sort of charming gallery behind a series of symmetrical columns with a presence of fine, arched doors. 

Splendid are the details inserted on the main facade greatly highlighted by four refined windows placed in correspondence on the first floor with two other larger on the second established beneath a fine double, undulated roof.

To preserve the conservation of that building as  patrimony heritage of the community were managed some works of restoration at the beginning of the 20th century and those magnificent arcades you can admire nowadays are perfectly conserved as result of those great operations of refurbishment.

After many centuries of life it continues to represent an emblem hosting a museum consisting in a very interesting exhibition displaying old photos, items providing furthermore an extensive history of the town during its most important historical stages.

Continuoing along Town Street very close to that emblematic site you can see an attractive sandstone building at the civic number 19 called The Manse, former residence of the famous, British composer and musician Gustav Holst

In Thaxted that famous character influenced during his artistic life by Richard Strauss and Richard Wagner created one of his most successful masterpieces, The Planets inspired by local characters and Holst's setting of the patriotic hymn "I Vow to Thee, My Country" to the trio melody of "Jupiter" in The Planets is named after the town.

That construction, a bit austere but at the same time stylish for the marked lines consists in two-storey building with a flat roof, on its front side was established a series of large windows with the main facade greatly characterised by a painted, wooden door with a great symmetry of all the architectural elements inserted in the frontal layout.

In Stoney Lane you can admire Dick Turpin´s cottage, a superb construction developed in a wonderful Tudor style highlighted in its front side by a beautiful compositions of timber details, special features of that unique and fascinating English architectural movement. 

You will notice especially in correspondence of the third floor around the windows established on the sides magnificent expressions of that kind of born and bred, traditional British style in vogue since the late 15th century

The town is also protagonist to host famed events and Thaxted Festival which takes place every year in the months of June and July with a good number of concerts, music performances with evenings living a very vibrant atmosphere, an appointment which calls many people including from other counties of England.

About another art, dancing the name of that centre is extremely linked to the group Thaxted Morris, who knows the world of folk dance related to Great Britain has probably heard  that name.

Founded in 1911 it represents the oldest Morris dancing revival group in England which contributed to promote but also to preserve the old, cultural traditions performing dances with a relevant number of fans very rooted in families who have or had an exponent related to that but also of people  who always followed wit interest the historical stages of the national folklore.

Also the Film industry fell in love with that captivating Essex centre chosing it as scene of a famous comedy movie launched in the early 50's titled Time Gentlemen please, all that certainly confirms the appeal of Thaxted as selected site.

Apart the famed presence of Holst as iconic resident other prominent, famous figures decided to live in that charming British town

One of them was Diana Wynne Jones a successful writer, novelist author of Howl's Moving Castle but other popular characters such as the actresses Fiona Shaw and Saffron Burrows moved to live in its boundaries.

Today Thaxted is a place where you can breathe the charming, distinctive atmosphere of the true, old England, a great step back in time in a picturesque British town enjoying a very captivating place with all around uncontaminated forests but in addition other stunning places to visit.

Furthermore also the industry related to hospitality and catering is very alive, you will find there very good restaurants, gastropubs delighting your palate during your days in the case of a pleasant stay with a genuine, tastefully cuisine.

The local gastronomy loyally reflects the oldest, typical traditions with a special mention to the classical, superb Roast Beef but also excellent Roast Pork, Chicken and Turley of great quality.

All those delectable plates are combined with fresh vegetables such as carrots, broccoli, delicious roast potatoes seasoned with a savoury gravy sauce accompanied by the traditional Yorkshire pudding.
 
Very tastefully is also a wide range of delectable Pies, very famous is the emblematic Cottage Pie prepared with minced beef or do not miss the famous Shepherd´s Pie made with exquisite lamb meat

Pretty famous is also the well known Steak and Ale Pie, in addition another renowned speciality is the famed Pork Belly, a boneless cut of fatty meat from the belly of a pig.

Bangers and Mash is another highlight pretty rooted in the local culinary identity consisting in sausages prepared with mashed potatoes flavoured with gravy sauce, the popular Fish & Chips is another notorious plate and very famous in that area is the Black Pudding, a blood sausage often present in the local cuisine. 

You can enjoy a big variety of beers, the county of Essex is a land in which you can taste a wide variety of English lagers boasting a very old tradition and prestige.

It is very easy to reach Thaxted from London in approximately one hour and ten minutes taking from the Capital of Great Britain the M11 motorway in direction Cambridge and Stansted Airport. 

Once you took the exit pretty close to the area corresponding to that important London Airport you have to follow the indications towards Colchester continuing driving along the A120 and in a short time you will reach that town.

For its location in the case your landing is on that mentioned airport, that centre could be a great start point or a more than pleasant last stage during a route ending with an overnight in a tailor made tour if you are planning a Fly & Drive with destination Great Britain with a very easy drop off of the vehicle.

In the case you want to know more I added some links which could help you to organise your trip in that attractive corner of England and do not hesitate to contact me if you need more information.

If you are planning to visiting the United Kingdom and especially its southern territory a stop in that site with a stay  is very recommended because in its immediate surroundings you will be surprised how many other places very attractive with a more than important historic past you can admire.

Thaxted is a piece of history of that Nation, a great place very appropriate to breathe that classical atmosphere of a site which with its genuine beauty transmits a magnificent step back in time to a picturesque British town which will enchant you at first sight.

Francesco Mari


Recommended accommodations in Thaxted and surroundings

The  Swan Hotel 
The Farmhouse Inn
Harwood Guest House

Useful Links





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