Castelseprio-Lake Varese | Scenic Cycling Cultural Route in the Historic Insubria.



From Castelseprio to Lake Varese if you are an art, history and outdoor activities lover you can enjoy a very scenic cycling cultural route in the historic Insubria visiting a spectacular territory with a notable historic patrimony  just a few kilometres from Milan Malpensa Airport enjoying a special itinerary also highly suggested for the most enthusiast mountain bikers.
 
The beautiful scenery in that Northern Italian area is highlighted by a splendid frame consisting in a stupendous green countryside and picturesque hills with relevant scattered artistic masterpieces and several monuments of immense value ranging from Medieval, Renaissance and Baroque gems. made by superb artists who enriched with magnificent works the province of Varese in many of its municipalities.

 The Insubria is a geographical-historical region of the Italian Peninsula occupied by different provinces such as the mentioned Varese, Como and Lecco in Lombardy, Novara, Verbano Cusio Ossola in Piedmont  and including the Swiss Canton of Ticino.

That land  was populated in ancient times by the Celtic Insubri, the Insubres, from which derives its denomination settled later by the Etruscans and colonised in a following period by the Romans who established an important stronghold and defencive base extremely important to protect strategic borders of the Imperial Rome.

That Empire in addition from there plan relevant military operations closely linked to the campaigns which determined  the conquest of Gaul during the times of the general and statesman Gaius Julius Caesar.
 
The territory in a a little paradise between hilly and windy roads boasting a wide range of beautiful mixed trails, climbs, descents and including some scenic sections along dirt paths with a varied coefficient of difficulty but suitable for everybody.


That great route of approximately 22,0 kilometres starts from a scenic site called Castelseprio and ending in the boundaries of the city of Varese on the shore of its homonym lake, an itinerary appropriate to show you many attractions linked to those civilisations and much more. That historic municipality is very famous for its Roman archaeological site and medieval buildings established on a picturesque hill 310,0 metres of altitude increasing the appeal of that centre of 1,300 inhabitants.


That small town is composed by two fractions called Castel Seprio and Vico Seprio and it lies  proximity of the course of the river Olona in a valley taking the name from that waterway which has its source in a site called Rasa in proximity of Varese.

 The municipality is crossed by small streams such as Refreddo, Roggia Milinara, Ronchè and Tenore and it is well known for its superb archeological area declared since 2011 UNESCO world Heritage site.

Apart the previous mentioned settlers Castelseprio was also a settlement of notable relevance occupied in different historic periods of the Middle Ages by Byzantines, Lombards, Franks, ruled by the Duchy of Milan during the times of the Visconti and Sforza dynasties and French domain when Napoleon Bonaparte reached those lands to abolish the feudalism.

Afterwards in the 19th century it was incorporated inside the Austrian Empire and in 1860 it joined the Kingdom of Italy with the House of Savoy as ruler.


 As introduction of that place which boasts a patrimony absolutely considerable before to start your trip you can not miss visit to visit the famed and iconic Roman Castrum  established on a green hilly plateau as bastion to face several Barbarian invasions in a very strategic position dominating the Olona valley.


The former Latin denomination of the town derives from that site originally called Castrum Sibrium, headquarter of the Imperial legions and stage of troops during their movements  between the city of Como and the eastern territories of the current Piedmont in the area of the river Ticino.

Worth a special mention that the elevation of that fortified stronghold took place just some years later the death in 395 of the Emperor Theodosius I, also known as Theodosius the Great which corresponds to the period of the famous split of the Roman Empire with the eastern capital Constantinople led by his elder son Arcadius while the western with Rome was ruled of his younger brother Honorious, an event pretty important because since then those two Imperial unities never returned to have a common future.

Along a path immediately entering in the archaeological area flanking the Visitor Centre you can admire the emblematic Castrum with the ruins of the historic nucleus consisting in the former houses inhabited by centurions and legionaries established on a square perimeter, some of them larger than others corresponding to the residences of the officers.

 According to historic excavations which took place next to to that site were also found many artifacts dating back the protohistoric era and in addition the discovery of a relevant necropolis corresponding to the Iron age.Also those discoveries confirm the notable relevance since ancient times of Castelseprio.
  
 Walking on that Educational path encircled by forests you can see the rest of the Citadel  reaching the second section and on the left side in a corner was established one of the strategic watchtowers .


Continuing the visit of the complex you can see the ruins of the Basilica di San Giovanni Battista erected in the 5th century,  the renmants of the walls as of the Baptistery dedicated to the same Saint John Baptist and the Basilica di San Paolo dedicated to St. Paul probably started in the 6th century but ended in the 12th century.
 
A great highlight is the Chiesa Santa Maria Foris Portas, a stupendous religious building elevated between the 7th and 8th century listed as UNESCO World Heritage Site, famous for its remarkable value highlighted by superb Byzantinesque frescoes executed in the apse depicting the childhood of Jesus Christ.


For all that magnificent patrimony the entire complex  was declared Patrimony of the Humanity by UNESCO and today that place is managed by the FAI, notorious Institution representing  the National Trust of Italy, a nonprofit Organisation sensitive to protect relevant monuments and complexes of high historic relevance all around the entire Italian Peninsula.

Castelseprio also became an important base and strategic centre of the Lombards which occupied that area developing a former road leading to the Archaeological area of a previous path traced by the Romans re-using the fortified spaces before to be defeated and replaced in the 8th century by the Franks who established there with the Carolingian dynasties a notorious site characterised by a lively cultural activity.

The municipality was later incorporated in the Duchy of Milan governed by the powerful Visconti family who made of that centre one of the most important cross points in Northern Lombardy attracting several famous artists who left considerable marks embellishing and decorating Churches and monuments with authentic masterpieces.

Despite that the emblematic Castrum  was largely devastated in 1287 by Ottone Visconti Archbishop of Milan, a member of that Milanese family, an event corresponding to the long clashes against the eternal rival consisting in the city of Como.

At the end of that stupendous visit from there you can take the road leading to the nearest town of Lonate Ceppino, a town on the edge of the Olona Valley cycling along a scenic descent between a picturesque woody area and a lovely countryside enjoying splendid panoramic views entering in a municipality which was an important Celtic settlement and a pretty active agricultural centre since medieval times.

That centre was for long time ruled by a noble family called Castiglioni allied of Como and it said it supported Frederick I, Holy Roman Emperor also known as Frederick Barbarossa before the famous Battle of Legnano which took place in that city near Milan on 29th May 1175 with the Imperial Army  defeated in that event by the Lombard League.

In its boundaries you can admire some historic monuments as the medieval Chiesa di San Pietro, a medieval Church erected in the early 12th century dedicated to St.Peter the apostle highlighted by a splendid gable facade and a square bell tower.

Further attractions are the beautiful Chiesa di Santa Maria e Antonio, the Church of to the Saints Mary and Anthony founded in 1562 by Baldassarre and Matteo Saporiti nicknamed La Maduneta, the little Madonna because it contains an image of the Virgin of the Annunciation and the Torrione, an imposing replica of crenellated medieval tower with slots part of the municipal aqueduct system.

 Cycling for approximately 5, 0 kilometres you have to follow in direction of the old Valmorea railway, a former rail junction which connected the Insubria Varesina in the province of Varese to the Insubria Comasca, the historical geographical area of that former region corresponding to the current province of Como.


That railway line was originally developed in correspondence of an ancient merchant’s path crossing several forests of the local territory originally inhabited by the Insubres who established there some scattered villages before the Roman colonisation.

Historically that place was also a sort of strategic hallway leading from that land of Lombardy to the Swiss Canton Ticino reaching the border crossing of Bizzarone highly frequented since the Middle Ages by traders particularly active in the commerce of silk and fabric, Benedictine and Olivetan monks directed to different monasteries and patrols of soldiers of the Dukes of Milan.

That strategic territorial axis  became later a very important transit of Napoleonic troops during the occupation of the region and furthermore a relevant passage during the times of the Austro-Hungarian Empire when the House of Habsburg annexed that land to its domains in the former Reign of Lombardy and Venetia in 1815.


The Austrian government during the times of the Emperor Franz Josef I established  a line of organised check points and gates regulating the passages of goods and all the local trades

In addition the Valmorea railway during the 2nd World War was controlled by a German Schutzstaffel SS division led by the Captain Joseph Voettler, operative lieutenant of the General Karl Wolf.

Once in Lonate Ceppino along a street called Via Milano you will enter in a country lane with a slope which directly leads through a mixed path to the stunning Torba Monastery entering in the municipality of Gornate Olona across a splendid hilly section packed by pleasant forests.


That superb Religious site is a famous and charming ancient Benedictine Monastery dated the 8th century situated in a picturesque location highlighted by the presence of a fairytale green woodland gently descending on the slopes of a splendid hill on which summit lies the previously visited Castelseprio.

It is very interesting to visit that magnificent place with the great opportunity to admire relevant frescoes, outstanding marvels in terms of artistic executions considering the period in which those magnificent works were made hosted in an imposing stone tower which is one of the best examples of defencive Roman-Byzantine architecture of the 5th and 6th centuries in the entire Northern Italy.

That splendid strong building boasts great architectural lines and the the entrance lies next to an ample attractive courtyard where you can see a very ancient oven greatly preserved. Once inside you can visit two floors with those frescoes showing very outlined profiles, refined shapes and fine contours extremely advanced for that time in terms of technique and colours despite some of them were not totally saved cause deterioration but they are an outstanding local patrimony boasting a unique value.

 

In a wall you will notice a Lombard inscription in ancient letters saying Casta Aliberga visible near the silhouette of a nun, the first word means immaculate while the second according to historic suppositions was probably that religious figure having that name. Very suggestive are other frescoes depicting a Jesus Christ Pantocrator with no beard, apostles, St. Mary, St.Euphemia and traces of a Velarium, a type of awning used in Roman times.

A suggestive, mystical highlight is a further fresco with protagonists various faceless nuns while another with a lion head attesting it is that of St. Mark closely related to Venice confirming it was a depiction of a Tetramorph, a symbolic execution which in Christian Art has as protagonists the four evangelists with symbols related to them.


Apart the tower you can also visit the monastery and the crypt, the great Ecclesiastic complex some years ago entered in the prestigious list of the World Heritage Sites by UNESCO and it is currently managed by the FAI just like the mentioned archaeological area of Castelseprio.(If you are interested I wrote a post about that site)
 

From that iconic site continuing towards Castiglione Olona, a relevant town located a few kilometres from Varese on the shore of the river Olona cycling for approximately 4,5 kilometres with a pretty challenging climb of less than 700,0 metres you are entering in the boundaries of a municipality well known for its outstanding historic past.

That centre was nicknamed Island of Tuscany in Lombardy by Gabriele D' Annunzio, famous writer, poet, jounrnalist, playwright and also Prince of Montenevoso and Duke of Gallese because its striking landscapes and medieval centre are very similar to the most enchanting Tuscan images you can admire in the areas of Chianti, Garfagnana, Valdichiana, Etruria and Alta Val D´Elsa among others.


The picturesque Castle of Monteruzzo which lies on a marvellous hill will confirm you that resemblance in a while, a splendid manor dating back the 19th century totally surrounded by a beautiful verdant environment and it was  originally the residence of the noble family Castiglioni di Monteruzzo from who derives its denomination and later an usual accommodation for the highest Milanese aristocracy ranking. 

Today that Castle is a very appreciated Congress Centre boasting different halls used for conferences, exhibitions, meetings and banqueting offering outstanding services, facilities with very appropriate large spaces to celebrate excellent events.

It is  certainly a considerable place to plan successful operations for every professional working in the Tourism area especially in the MICE branch or also for a Company which wants to organise a meeting in an environment highly captivating.

Once reached the boundaries of that fascinating town you can stop  to admire its marginficent Borgo Medioevale corresponding to the medieval historic centre, a very picturesque place with captivating narrow streets and picturesque alleys packed by superb old buildings, palaces and groups of beautiful houses totally restored and well preserved some of them boastng charming courtyards.

By a steep scenic and romantic cobbled hallway flanked by stoned walls once reached the summit of a very pleasant hilly crest you will face a stunning construction characterised by an extraordinary Romanesque facade,a wonderful treasure of the most relevant Gothic Lombard art consisting in the magnificent Collegiata.

That marvellous Religious temple also known as Chiesa di Santo Stefano e Lorenzo, dedicated to the Saints Stephen and Lawrence is a masterpiece commissioned by the Cardinal Branda Castiglioni charismatic figure with notable influence on different Popes and highly regarded by the Holy Roman Emperor Sigismund of Luxemburg also King of Hungary, Croatia, Germany, Italy and Prince elector of Brandenburg.

Erected by the masters Pietro, Giovanni and Alberto Solari, it was consecrated on 25th March 1425, that stupendous masterpiece is greatly highlighted by a marvellous rose window considered one of the most relevant works of Italian art corresponding to the 15th century.

The perfect symmetry of all the architectural elements inserted in the the layout with a magnificent arched windows, other extraordinary works are the refined outlines and the elaborated fine lines of the niche, lunette and columns of the portal which make that stupendous Church unique in its kind.

That stunning Religious building is also the emblematic place containing the wonderful frescoes by Tommaso Cristoforo Fini well known as Masolino da Panicale, that great artist who painted the beautiful Brancacci Chapel in Florence, pupil of the famous artist Ghiberti and master of another eminent painter as Masaccio.

Masolino da Panicale is considered one of the best Italian artists of the Middle Ages, very famous for his innate talent, able to execute superb lines, perfect perspectives and with that unique feature determined by a great taste in the choice and combinations of vivid colour with protagonists shining lights, a genius able to illustrate scenes which for many were absolutely unique with a style pioneer of for that historic period and for many experts considered unrivaled.


 That artist born in San Giovanni Valdarno, a town in the province of Arezzo was elevated as a figure over the media and once inside you  will simply astonished facing something simply extraordinary discovering in a while the greatness of that master with the opportunity to admire his famous cycle of frescoes depicting the stories of St.John Baptist admiring also in the stunning Baptistery located just behind that fantastic Church.

In addition you will be enchanted facing other great works by the master from Siena Lorenzo di Pietro nicknamed Il Vecchietta and another talented more than painter as the Florentine Paolo Schiavo who supported Masolino in the execution of the frescoes highlighting the apse.

In that fabulous complex you will have the brilliant chance to visit also the Historic Museum situated in the middle of those two magnificent medieval buildings.

That exhibition established in a lovely cloister flanking a facade of the Collegiata displays several objects of sacred art and other items of considerable historic value made in different periods. (In the case you are interested I wrote a little post in Italian language about all that if you are interested)

Descending towards the historic centre you  can visit Palazzo Branda, the Cardinal's Palace which includes a chapel dedicated to St.Martin with frescoes by Il Vecchietta dated 1437, the study, the room of that eminent Ecclesiastic character with other frescoes of that artist and Masolino too. 

Another highlight is the Chiesa di del Santissimo Corpo di Cristo, the Church of the Most Holy Body of Christ, erected between 1437 and 1444 taking inspirations by the style of the Florentine master Filippo Brunelleschi highlighted in its fine front side by great statues depicting the Saints Christopher and Anthony.

Strolling its streets in a very peaceful atmosphere at the foot of the hill hosting those wonderful masterpieces on the main square you can enjoy a pleasant break in a couple of Bar-Restaurants offering snacks and typical local plates. 

After that unique, wonderful unforgettable visit you can continue cycling towards Gornate Olona taking a countryside road which will connect you on the previously mentioned route former part of the old railway Valmorea once again.

That hilly small municipality is characterised by a spectacular point in which begins a steep climb with approximately a gradient media corresponding to 8% with five spectacular  bends

Often frequented during trainings by several professional cyclists living in the area, among them Ivan Basso. It is an ascent 1,6 kilometres long highlighted by a short section after the first 300,0 metres with a very challenging wall of 12% and a brief straight of approximately 200,0/250,0 metres around 10%.

That climb is nicknamed Il Piccolo Stelvio, the little Stelvio because at the beginning it is very similar to the first kilometres of that famous and legendary Alpine Pass situated at 2758,0 of altitude between the provinces of Sondrio in Valtellina, Lombardy and that one of Bolzano, Trentino Alto Adige, an Alpine icon often inserted in memorable stages of the Giro D´Italia.  

The Piccolo Stelvio  despite it is not very long is very spectacular highlighted by a beautiful verdant scenery on both sides and it is  frequently protagonist in prestigious cycling races as Coppa Bernocchi and Tre Valli Varesine glorious competitions won by famous champions such as Gino Bartali, Fausto Coppi, Eddy Merckx, Giuseppe Saronni and Claudio Chiappucci among others.

That municipality of 2,250 inhabitants was an important Roman centre attested by the discovery of a small but very developed necropolis and once there you can admire the Castello, a castle dated the 12th century, highlighted by majestic crenellated circular towers and surrounded by a large beautiful park with secular trees hosting today celebrations as weddings and gala dinners.

Another interesting attraction is the Santuario della Maddonetta, a Sanctuary dedicated to the Virgin Mary erected in 1650 located in a scenic woody environment and another historic monument is the Chiesa di San Vittore, the Parish Church dedicated to St. Victor elevated in the 18th century on the foundations of a previous medieval structure.

From Gornate Olona you have to continue towards the town of Morazzone cycling for approximately 5,5 kilometres along a stretch which is a continuous up and down in a charming environment with slopes of an average media around 3%, 4% and heights of 400, 0/450, 0 metres of altitude.

The route is very pleasant and on both sides the road is flanked by a large woodland and in the meantime cycling you can admire pleasant landscapes

The Municipality of Morazzone is a centre of approximately 4,500 inhabitants part of the RTO, the Parco Rile-Tenore-Olona, an attractive green nature park and that town was an important headquarter of a legion of the Imperial Rome since the 1st century residence of two commanders and brothers called Marcus and Lucius Sentii members  of the 4th Scitica legion.

They were also members  of the Roman Outentina tribe, a family cited by important historical archives in Latin language and confirming all that in the local boundaries was discovered of a granite tombstone depicting their names with date of birth conserved in the Chiesa di Sant Ambrogio, the Church of St. Ambrose built in the early 19th century in Baroque style, designed by the Swiss-Italian architect Simone Cantoni. 


Very suggested is the visit to the captivating Chiesa di Santa Maria Madre, a splendid Religious site elevated in the 15th Century located in a picturesque corner between two low walls boasting a pleasant gable facade with an oculus placed above the portal and a splendid bell tower topped by a marvellous onion dome with pinnacle.

Inside you can admire some relevant paintings and much more from there you will be delighted by a splendid view of the Alps with the majestic Monte Rosa peak facing you while from another side you will can admire the coastline of the nearest small and lovely Lake of Varese, certainly a great place to take some beautiful panoramic pictures.

In that town you can also admire the imposing Torre Campanaria, a high tower started in the 16th century and ended in the 17th century and in addition if you are an art lover do not miss a visit to a medieval courtyard dated the 13th century containing the former house of a great artist called Pier Francesco Mazzucchelli well known as il Morazzone.

That painter was one of the most prominent Masters of Lombard School of the 16th and 17th centuries with some of his relevant paintings displayed in distinguished galleries as the Pinacoteca di Brera, Milan. 

 Very active in several places of Lombardy and Piedmont such as Como, Pavia, Novara and Orta that very talented character also worked for a period in Rome gaining respect and admiration by the Popes returning later to his native region and worth a mention that he was also called to work in Turin at the Royal Court of the House of Savoy.

That distinctive figure was a great exponent of the early Baroque although he was at the beginning of his artistic stages a classical exponent of the traditional mannerism and as another notorious character called Caravaggio  that talented genius was a superb executor of stunning masterpieces with marvellous contrasts of lights and shades painting in the same background luminous and dark representations but able to obscure shapes and giving light to other figures with an extreme easiness.

Highly appreciated for his great criteria in the use of right and perfect colours, simply superb to develop diverse and varied themes, superb to exalt in very detailed reproductions human silhouettes, bodies and facial expressions in a unique way. 

Leaving Morazzone following the indications to Gazzada Schianno which is just 2, 0 kilometres away the road gently descends on Lake Varese a pleasant waters basin situated at an altitude of 238,0 metres with a surface area of 14,95 square kilometres a a maximum depth of 26,0 metres

It is a lake of glaciar origin formed over 15,000 years ago probably in the same period which generated the formation of Lake Maggiore, the 12th for size Italian territory and on it lies a small islet called since 1878 Isolino Virginia part of the municipality of Biandronno previously known with other denominations such as Isola di San Biagio, Isola di Donna Camilla Litta, name given it by the former owner Andrea Ponti.

In 1863 were found near that island rests of prehistoric stilts as in the nearest Lake of Monate and due to that both waters basins were awarded by UNESCO in 2011, as patrimony sites.

Since the 60's it hosts important rowing competitions and it is headquarter of the Cannotieri Varese, a prestigious Sporting Institution founded in 1927 boasting several Italian titles but also with Athletes which won gold medals in the European Championships celebrated in Luzern, Amsterdam and Milan respectively in the editions of
 1947, 1949 and 1950.

That renowned Club organised Italian and European championships in 2008 and 2012, in 2013 the World Master Regatta and since 2015 it was inserted as a stage of the World Cup and also for that is a famous destination for that activity but also for all those who love kayak and canoeing activities.

For its green vegetation and verdant hills surrounding its shores once there you will be delighted by very scenic landscapes and very peaceful corners very suggested to take several magnificent pictures.

From there in a very short time you can reach the city of Varese nicknamed the Città Giardino, the Garden City for the great number of magnificent gardens and you can appreciate the beauty of that centre of Northern Italy dominated by the beautiful mountains Sacro Monte, UNESCO Patrimony Heritage site and Campo dei Fiori.

That centre is also very famous for stunning villas and mansions, several interesting museums, stylish palaces in Neo-Renaissance and Liberty styles but also Medieval and Baroque and in addition it is a great place for shopping especially shoes considered for trsadition and design among the best in the world.

The International Airport of Milan Malpensa is situated just 27, 0 kilometres away and in approximately 30 minutes by the National Road SS336 you will reach Castelseprio in a very easy way.

The choice of an accommodation in the immediate surroundings of that centre is also a brilliant chance to discover other itineraries equally fascinating.

In the case you are planning holidays in that corner of Italy and you want to fill your days with visit, excursions and a stay I added some links with including some structures strategically located in that area with the chance to enjoy that very scenic route since the beginning.

Those 22,0 kilometres are simply beautiful if you love cycling and a great experience combining sport and tourism with the chance to stop in different fairytale places admiring important historic sites along a scenic cultural route in the historic Insubria

Art and nature are combined there in a magnificent itinerary with splendid view points and great landscapes, something very special you will remember for a long time with extreme pleasure. 

Francesco Mari

Recommended Accommodations in the area 

B&B Stella del Borgo (At Castiglione Olona)
B&B La Madonnetta (at Gornate Olona)

 
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