Cape Malabata-Morocco | Where Two Continents Face Each Other.

Cape Malabata for many people is just a simple remote geographic point of Morocco, a North African promontory formed by scenic high cliffs overlooking the Atlantic but it is also where two continents face each other along a beautiful coastline of the Maghreb just 9,0 kilometres away from the captivating  city of Tangier, a very suggestive place highly recommended to visit not just for the striking panoramic sea views it offers but also for the rich historic events which had as superb protagonist that Moroccan headland.

That Cape was called by the Spaniards and Portuguese simply El Cabo, the Cape, a tip with a an irregular conical shape forming with its western twin, the iconic Cape Spartel and the corresponding coastline the wide bay of Tangier in front of the Andalusian Costa de la Luz facing a large stretch of the southernmost Iberian Peninsula.

In sunny days that image sometimes appears as mysterious so close to Europe but situated in another Continent largely visible from Spain in proximity of Tarifa with an ample view of that appealing silhouette from one of the splendid beaches of that resort well known to be a famed windsurfing destinations called Playa de Los Lances but also immediately offshore of the harbour of the city of Algeciras.

If you are in Spanish territory in correspondence of the coastal town of Barbate in the case you are transiting along that scenic littoral of the province of Cadiz you will be delighted by an enchanting perspective of that huge rocky spur in African territory surrounded by a sort of magic aura. 

Including in splendid sunny and clear days that site is extremely visible descending further north along the coastal road in the vicinity of the attractive municipality of Vejer de la Frontera immediately after La Barrosa and Chiclana de la Frontera on the route leading to La Linea De la Concepcion next to Gibraltar.

Along that stunning and spectacular coastal stretch which forms in that Southern Iberian corner a gently and sinuous bend you can have a further stop in the stunning Zahara de los Atunes looking at from another special angle the northern al-Maghrib-al-Khabīr as it is called in its original language that vast land of North Africa.

The visit of that place is simply great for all the visitors who are planning a tour around that beautiful country as very suggested stage in a stupendous territory which offers scenic images, splendid landscapes and sea views taking home very glad memories of a landmark of that land.


It will be certainly a great experience which will remain imprint in your eyes and mind because sites like that are the pure essence of the Northern Morocco for many reasons, its colours, a striking coast, a great destination for all those who love photography, a fantastic start point for different excursions discovering magnificent hidden marvels and in addition a wonderful stop along a significant itinerary through the Tangier-Tetouan-Al Hoceima Region packed by many other sublime attractions.

That promontory is certainly a special stage to insert in your plans of visit with the chance to admire in its proximity also wonderful beaches and once there it is wonderful to have different options of routes.

The first is along a splendid sinuous eastern coastline leading to Ceuta, that Spanish autonomous city sharing a western frontier with the Moroccan Kingdom or in opposite direction towards west reaching the previously mentioned Cape Spartel crossing a marvellous arched gulf visiting also that site which has a lot to narrate with a past rich of historic events and legends.
  
A further is in direction south once reached the outskirts of Tangier entering in the scenic  interior and via Ain Lahcen you will reach the southern boundaries of the stupendous city of Tetouan next to the archeological site of Tamuda, a former emblematic centre founded in the 3rd century BC by the Mauretanian Berbers boasting also considerable Phoenician and Roman artifacts.

That Moroccan headland so close to the European continent has always had a notable  historic value because it was an eternal place of conquest with several contenders who in different periods tried to acquire the control of that tip as considerable sea gate and Carthaginians and Romans were the first civilisations duelling for its domain.

Including it is a site very famed for narrations and mythological episodes which are always something of very suggestive and mystical in their kinds to transmit the visitors and those shaped cliffs visible sailing in the Strait of Gibraltar at first sight appear as something of magic part of an exotic site rich of mysterious hidden secrets evoking a past related to some of the most captivating local Berber legends. 

There is one especially related to that  telling that Cape Malabata was the site on which the mythological Heracles son of the God Zeus stopped for a period to look at that idyllic coastline and the mesmerising horizon before to continue his mission exploring new lands.

According to narrations linked to the most suggestive mythology  that epic character during his long trip across the Maghreb killed there in a legendary duel the giant of the Atlas Antaeus son of Poseidon and Gaia, husband of Tinga who later became Heracles wife and they lived together in Tingis the current Tangier. (I wrote a post about that city in the case you are interested)

Situated just some minutes north of the Sidi Mnari which was with its small forest the last green oasis for the old Berber merchants coming from south on the road to the coastal trail leading to the centre of Ksar Sghir well known in the past as Ksar Mesmouda, historic stronghold of the Almohad Caliphate founded by Ibn Tumart, Cape Malabata also reached an increasing relevance century by century because it was an obliged transit point of resonance since the Middle Ages as strategic cross road leading to important market places.

That promontory was in addition with the famous and historic former Septa the current Spanish centre of Ceuta previously mentioned where the Umayyad Caliphate led by Abd Al-Rahman Musa started the operations related to the invasion and conquest of the old Roman Hispania in the early 8th century.

It was from that point that the Moors organised a massive expedition to the Iberian Peninsula landing on Andalusian soil once called Betica well known for a long time to be a relevant stronghold of Rome in Southwestern Europe and after the occupation they founded there the basis of the first  and iconic Caliphate of of Al-Andalus.

For its position, that promontory was chosen as ideal place by the Moorish Emirs to lead their military campaigns without hesitations due to favourable conditions of navigation  to cross the strait of Gibraltar which was in previous times a bit feared for the currents and the strength of the Atlantic which in windy days was practically unnavigable.

That headland was selected also for that ample view towards the entire Andalusian shoreline and because that rocky promontory was a sort of shield protecting the ships routes thanks to a couple of small tips further north forming a small natural barrier.

It was easier than using as departure the famous Cap Alminar another well known headland corresponding to the territory of Tamlit, the current Melilla, other current Spanish enclave in the Maghreb which despite located on the Mediterranean was considered too far and with the risk to meet pirates who constantly funnelled the opposite Iberian littoral along the coastline of Almeria.

Including that place packed by sharp cliffs was also preferred to Cape Spartel often declared pretty dangerous due to sudden and unexpected very high waves feared by a multitude of experienced sailors and explorers who informed the Caliphs about those pitfalls.

Cape Malabata was also later a notorious place of several battles which saw as protagonists Portuguese, Spaniards, French and English for many years as a land to conquer, defend and once established a domain there it was for the ruler extremely easy to dominate a long Atlantic hallway becoming the owners of an indisputable strategic corner checking every movement along the entire coasts on both sides, European and North African.

Also for that during the Rif War which took place from 1911 to 1927 but also later with the General and Dictator Francisco Franco Spain used several divisions of his army including the Legion, a special military corp to defend the domain of that peninsula establishing there an important stronghold facing a possible occupation of France which originally have ceded that land to the Spaniards but colonised  almost the totality of Morocco transforming it in a big French Protectorate.

If you are in Tangier approximately 10 minutes driving from the city centre of the ancient Tingis along the road called Route de la Baie de Tangier, the Bay Road you will find a very comfortable accommodation consisting in the Mövenpick Hotel & Casino a five Stars Hotel in the case you want to stop to have a coffee, enjoying a lunch or also a dinner after the visit of that iconic Cape.

Returning to the city it is also very convenient place at evening after an excursion enjoying the Restaurant of the Hotel called Le Paradisier which offers a varied cuisine with menu à la carte, a summer terrace and it also has another one called Layali serving typical Moroccan gastronomy. 

It is a very good hospitality structure offering  comfort, excellent services and facilities, providing in addition a Casino in the case you are interested to spend some hours in that place or why not choosing it as headquarter for radial excursions  if you are planning a tailor made tour in that Maghreb corner for its strategic location and it can be furthermore an option if you want to spend a stay in a more relaxing and tranquil place considering that Tangier is a city pretty big.

 

That route is splendid and scenic and looking down from that coastal road you can admire spectacular rocky formations, several small coves and natural tiny beaches beneath imposing cliffs.

On the other side the panoramic view is equally highly suggestive highlighted by the beautiful presence of scattered olive groves and typical Mediterranean vegetation mainly composed by shrubs and low bushes. 

The local soil  changes colour in late spring and summer seasons burned by the hot sun transforming its natural tonality from brown to a light yellow or ochre in some points due to high temperatures which often reaches over 40º degrees.

That enchanting North African scenery along that spectacular coastal hallway is especially attractive for those fabulous contrasts of tonalities which are highlights of the true, real and unmistakable image of the Maghreb a mandatory for the most passionate photographers who want to immortalise places of extreme beauty in a multitude of striking and significant pictures.

During the week that road has not a lot of traffic, the weekends are pretty busy due to many cars and vehicles of locals escaping from Tangier looking for a pleasant day enjoying the local beaches or by buses and minibuses linked to Coach Tours providing visits arranged by Tour Operators starting from Ceuta going until the attractive towns of Asilah and Larache in F/D excursions and including in the plan also the visit of Cape Malabata.

If you are travelling during a working day you can easily stop the car on the border of the Route de la Baie de Tangier to admire some beautiful spectacular sea views, the splendid formation of some cliffs and a wide and ample mosaic of rocks with different shapes result of the erosion generated the impact of the waves of the sea, a stunning scenery to immortalise immediately in many pictures.

In a point approximately 1, 0 kilometres after the mentioned Hotel I recommend you a stop,  if you look down you will see a small cove and crystalline waters in which you can see the seabed preparing your camera to take some splendid photos.

That coastal stretch was historically an iconic stage along the Route de la Corniche de Tangier used since medieval times by Berber traders devoted to the commerce of spices, carpets and other goods during their trips along a path flanking the coastline leading to the busy market of Ksar Sghir.

Centuries later In a more contemporary era it was an usual route for soldiers patrols who controlled all the local movements overlooking Tangier bay as strategic check point controlling possible lands of the enemy.

In recent times it also became a sort of panoramic obliged stage for tourism because not far apart from Cape Malabata from two splendid beaches such as Plage Sidi Kankouche and the splendid Plage Blanche or Des Amiraux also named in Spanish language Playa Blanca, the white beach so called for the light tonality of its sand, two options you can plan to visit in a full day or in different days during your stay.

Continuing along that magnificent stretch there are many other picturesque places highlighted by high vertical rocky walls and a couple of sharp tiny promontories extremely scenic. 

One in particular is right in front of the Spanish seaside resort of Tarifa and it is certainly a spectacular place more than suggestive for the marvellous view towards the European shore with a fantastic frontal perspective and also that point is highly recommended.

Approximately 1, 5 kilometres before to reach the Cape you will notice a gentle curve and immediately after you can stop on the side of the road worth because once there you will be totally delighted by another panoramic sight of the mentioned Tarifa and the huge promontory covering La Linea de la Concepcion, Campo de Gibraltar and looking at the tip south of Algeciras with the bay which divides it from the British Overseas Territory on the southern end of the Iberian Peninsula.

You can also continue to admire the variety of the formation of the rocks and some hidden coves very attractive. Continuing the journey you will be delighted by a pretty long straight on which you can see the spectacular sinuous silhouette of La Corniche de Tangier behind you and in a while will appear the image of the emblematic Cape Malabata. 

The first relevant image you will notice is the high Lighthouse dominating the entire local environment and it is in its kind a significant symbol of that geographic Moroccan point. 

In addition once there you can see a fortress erected in the 20th century to guard the coast and a small market with interesting handcrafts, products sold by vendors mainly coming from Asilah and Larache with the chance to buy some objects of excellent quality and also pretty cheap. 

Some of those sellers are direct descendants of the ancient Iznaten, Aznag and Masmuda, the first Berber tribes natives of that Maghreb area who continued generation by generation that activity started by their ancestors centuries ago.

That cape thanks to its position was chosen for an important project consisting in a point of departure from Moroccan territory for the construction of a tunnel which will link Africa to Europe connecting Morocco to Spain.

The connection will be concretely from Cape Malabata to Punta Paloma exactly ending in that Spanish locality situated close to the small bay of Valdevaqueras next to Tarifa and not far from the famous archaeological area of Baelo Claudia corresponding to the beautiful beach of Bolonia, one of the most charming  places situated along the wonderful the Costa de La Luz.

Cape Malabata according to historic information was also a favourite haven of Francis Bacon, that famous Irish-English Figurative painter who loved Tangier but he also found in that special corner outside the city a deep source of inspiration.  It said that the artist spent many hours walking around that tip and when he returned to Tangier he started to work with enthusiasm and passion. 

Probably the captivating environment of that place with a scenery highly significant and unique in its kind was for him really special, perhaps that image of two Continents face each other, the sound of the waves and the view of those scenic cliffs so mystical and appealing were the key of deep inspirations for the creation of his relevant works. 

Also another famed character the American writer Paul Bowles who lived and died in Tangier often loved to reach Cape Malabata spending full days up and down along that promontory to admire from that headland something which was for him more than pleasant.

In addition someone said that in that point took place some secret meetings related to high rankings of the allied forces during the 2nd war.

Tangier was well known in the 40's to be a relevant meeting point of spies but when the secret services of the enemy sent their emissaries in that city, that cape was  probably considered much better, isolated and far from an urban highly populated, times in which the Anglo-American leaders prepared their  strategies in Morocco to face the operations in North Africa led by the General Erwin Rommel commander of the German Africa Korps. 

 

If you want to see something really impressive at approximately 3,0 kilometres from the cape you can visit the luxury Royal Resort Cap Malabata developed in a wide area of approximately 129 acres designed as residential, business, shop and tourist centre.

That stunning place was an investment of over 500 millions of dollars in Moroccan land by the State of Bahrain and the complex is like a splendid oasis highlighted by the presence of charming buildings established in Moorish-Andalusian style. 

 Some of them are decorated with splendid Zellij details, Mudejar coloured tiles in the patios and furthermore providing a splendid Mediterranean vegetation in gardened spaces packed by several palm trees which also cover the public areas of that complex. 

That site is pretty close to the beach Plage des Amiraux, the previously mentioned Plage Blanche highlighted by its bright sand situated in an attractive small bay enclosed between two low hills so you can have the brilliant chance to admire another special attraction. 

In the past that site was mainly frequented by fishermen who used it as shelter placing their boats and nets while today it is visited by several tourists and in its proximity were built some villas, chalets and apartments. 

Ksar  Sghir is another place not far I suggest to visit; it is a lovely small centre of approximately 10,000 inhabitants with a beautiful bay and a pleasant maritime promenade. In that place you can also see three Bab, old gates which were elevated to permit the trade operations entering in the local Medina in a place which was since the Middle Ages a very important market place and one of those doors facing the sea was also used for defencive and miltary purposes.

Its name means small castle because in the 8th century in its boundaries was erected a small fortification and in medieval times the current town was a very relevant centre settled by the emblematic Idrisid, Almoravid and Almohad dynasties.

For a period since 1458 it was occupied by the Portuguese Army led by King Afonso V supported by the Duke of Viseu Henrique de Avis with a landing of over 25,000 soldiers and using in that operation a fleet of 220 ships.

If you are planning to visit Morocco and particularly Tangier, do not miss Cape Malabata and all the beautiful attractions surrounding that special place with the chance to see where two continents face each other in a space of just a few kilometres and you will be enchanted by landscapes simply wonderful.

A walk above those high cliffs is very suggestive, simply the view of all that you will admire around that site deserves a visit keeping a more than fascinating picture of that place in one of your best albums and  memories.

Francesco Mari

Useful links

tanger.madeinmedina.com 
tangiertourism.org 

m.moevenpick-hotels.com/tangier 
www.visitmorocco.com