El Port de la Selva is one of the resorts in the sunny Costa Brava where a tourist can enjoy untamed islets and relevant medieval art developed in that geographic point of the Catalan coastline on that picturesque promontory called Cap de Creus, the Cape of the Cross between the Mediterranean and the Serra de Rodes,a mountainous hallway between that Iberian Northeastern littoral and the Pyrenees in the Comarque of the Alt Empordà.
That charming resort highlighted by its white houses and a captivating small harbour with a splendid waterfront is situated 75,0 km from the capital of the County Girona and approximately 190,0 km north from the Capital of the Comunitat de Catalonia : Barcelona
If you come from France along that beautiful coastal straight which links the French Côte Vermeille to the Northern Costa Brava,the scenery is simply beautiful on one side the mountains on the other the Mediterranean Sea,admiring the several coves,inlets and small bays of the most wild section of that coast running along the most Southern France and where starts the Spanish territory.
Located in a picturesque gulf in the northern side of an ample headland where the blue crystalline waters of the sea are melted with the green forests of pines of that region.El Port de la Selva could be a song by Jose Manuel Serrat one of the most famous singers of Catalonia who wrote and performed that popular song with the title Mediterraneo which can be considered perfectly suitable for that seaside resort and a Catalan writer,poet,novelist and journalist Josep Maria de Segarra i Castelnrau from Barcelona was inspired and fall in love with that enchanting seaside resort dedicating it some of his works.
With its 1,100 inhabitants,historically El Port de la Selva born as a peaceful fishing village under the influence of local nobles and the powerful Counts of Roussillon as the majority of the all small villages along the Alt Empordà and surroundings.The current resort was part of a territory in the 10th century under rule of the Count of Ampurias Gausfredo who donated part of that coastal string to some Monks who lived in the Monastery of the Serra de Rodes.
The first official historic documents about an inhabited village dating back the 18th century,a humble seafaring hamlet with a little group of houses mainly arranged in proximity of a small dock.In that period was also erected a small Church and the village obtained its autonomy thanks the productive activities related to.fishing and agriculture which were the main resources of the municipality in the 19th century.
In the same period there was also a cultivation of vineyards but the phylloxera as in many other areas of Catalonia was devastating and only the fishing activity continued to be the main source of the current resort.
The proximity of Figueres the town famous to be the birthplace of Salvador Dali which is just 32,0 km away was one of the key to develop tourism flows with the presence of famous characters such as Dali,Picasso and Chagall and thanks to those prestigious names there was a sort of automatic promotion of that charming coast so wild and picturesque (the name Costa Brava means wild coast).
Local writers starter to sing the beauty of that place and in the 60s there was a relevant incoming mainly from Northern Europe and Germany.The Hippie movements of those years loved those virgin beaches,the local mild climate,places not sophisticated and surrounded by a beautiful and wild nature,thanks to all that the Tourism Industry had an important revenue in terms of nights spent mainly in camping due the lack of Hotels and other accommodations present in that period.
That important flow of foreign tourists was a relevant input to develop interesting ideas and starting to launch a tourism offered other markets and to convince some investors to establish important activity in terms of hospitality with the creation of facilities and services in alternative to those campings which were not enough to respond to a high and increasing demand year by year.
The 70s were the consolidation of a constant tourism with an increasing request,many French tourists crossed the nearest border next to the other tourists from Northern Europe who came back.The 80s were furthermore successful with the entry of Spain in the European Community in the year 1986,that time was undoubtedly the beginning of a relevant triumph and in the 90s he Costa Brava became a famed destination known worldwide.
In the course of those years El Port de la Selva to keep its pleasant image did not have a massive construction of big Hotels or huge complexes of accommodation as other local resorts such as Lloret de Mar,Tossa de Mar,Roses,Blanes or Playa de Aro to mention some destination which played all their cards in developing tourism as main engine of their economies with the construction of several incoming structures to accommodate the big requests of the International Tour Operators that due excellent offers and that sunny coast immediately filled all them.
The town saved its identity and original aspect despite that were erected of some new buildings a very limited number of Hotels,some hostales compared to the European B&B of very good level and some campings,thanks that the choose El Port de la Selva as destination is a great incentive for people who wants to spend holidays in a relaxing place enjoying a peaceful atmosphere on the shore of the Mediterranean in one of the best corners of the Cap de Creus and in a place not too busy.
The town has a very simple arrangement,the centre is in proximity of the Mediterranean with its picturesque whitewashed houses all lined along the coast and where the bell tower Parish Church dominates the entire agglomeration,there are two main roads which are the most important axis of the town,the Carretera G-612 which is the entrance to the town coming from France exactly from Portbou and Port de Vall.
That road crosses the Riera de la Selva a small river which with its estuary on the western side of the municipality embraces the sea.That place is a very good point to take pictures and to see from an excellent perspective the shape of the bay of that seaside resort and continuing along the coastline flanking Port de Reig,the Club Nautic until the promontory of Cala Tamanua.
The other road is the Carretera G-613 which is the main entry point coming from south, from the area of Cadaques and it has its mouth in proximity of the Ajuntament the Town Hall .
The Esglesia de Santa Maria de les Neus is one of the most important highlights of the town,it is a white Religious building erected in the 20th century on an irregular rectangular plan with a bell tower on square base of the same colour with a circular watch and with opened high arched windows in the belfry and on the top you will notice some stoned segments which form a kind of uncovered vaulted roof.
The wide facade has a large hexagonal rose window,the silhouette of the upper section is rounded on the sides and the higher central nucleus ends with a small rectangular element.The inspiration is from that famous Mediterranean architecture used by the talent of determined architects who would not alter the local image with the surrounding buildings with something of atypical or in high contrast with the rest presents in the proximity preserving the former aspect of the local architectonic environment.
The Church was restored in a couple of occasions,the first time in the 40s when the Bishop of Girona decided a remodelling in major part of the former main building and in the 60s when it was enlarged and modified in some details.The interior is sober with a central nave and chapels in the aisles which contains some sacred figures.
The most important is a sculpture coming from the Monastery of Rodes,but also others depicting the Patroness of the town the Mare de Deu de la Neus,the Mother of God of the Snow,the Saint Patroness of the fishermen the Virgin del Carme, and the Mare de Deu del Roser,the Mother of god of the Rosary.
In the area of the Serra de Rodes in the Vall de Sant Creu west of the bay of the El Port de la Selva,you can admire the Esglesia de Sant Fruitós a Church dated the 16th century.That stoned building with a nave was erected on rectangular plan with a semi circular apse.
The building today is not well preserved but it is interesting to observe the architecture of the facade which is a composition of two adjacent architectonic elements,on the left one higher with three symmetrical high pillars forming a sort of an irregular colonnade curved on the the right and another wall lower than the other with a rectangular doorway.The entrance has a step leading to the bell tower with an oculus probably place of a former rose window.
Approximately 5,5 km from the the resort in the Massif de Cap de Creus you can admire an emblematic monument of Romanesque Art, the Ermita De Sant Baldiri.That hermitage is a stoned complex consisting in a building developed on a rectangular plan with a nave,a circular tower and the house annexed was the residence of the Prior,while the current tower was added in the 16th century.
The Hermitage was restored in different occasions,all that is visible by the materials used during the works comparing with the former existing,some details have preserved the original former medieval aspect and the new materials used dating back some centuries later are very visible in the walls.
Very interesting is also the visit of the ruins of the Castell de Sant Salvador de Verdera in the Serra de Rodes. That manor was a property of the Count of Ampurias Gausfredo in the 10th century and famous for the disputes between the Pope Benedict VIII and the new Count of Roussillon and Ampurias Hugues I who wanted to recuperate that fortress for claims of inheritance.
The structure originally was a complex with fortified walls,a high rectangular watchtower and a medieval Church dating back the 13th century furthermore there was also an old tank to collect water.
Very interesting and worth undoubtedly a visit the Esglesia de Santa Helena which is a Church of the ancient village of Santa Creus.That stoned Romanesque building dedicated to Saint Helen was probably erected in 9th century but enlarged and ended in the 10th century.It consists in a nave and a polygonal apse,the facade has an arched doorway surmounted by a rectangular window.
Behind the gable roof there is the bell tower erected on an irregular square plan and on its flat roof was placed an added section a belfry.On its right side there is an adjacent building with a sloping roof on the right of the wall of the apse of the building.In front of the Church there are two sections of stoned walls which probably in the past enclosed a courtyard of the religious building on its front side.That Religious temple was consecrated in the early 12th century period in which it became Parish Church.
One of the most charming and captivating highlights in the surroundings of that seaside resort is the ancient BenedectineMonastery of Sant Pere,,dedicated to St,Peter and erected probably between the 9th and 11th century but someone believes and considers that it was was built long before.That magnificent structure lies under the Castell de Sant Salvador de Verdera.The Monastery is the place used to hide and keep safe the rests of the apostle St.Peter and also for that the right date of construction is uncertain.
The mysteries of the rests of St.Peter are still an enigma.The rests of the Saint were in danger during the Pontificate of Pope Gregory the Great in a period related to the the 7th century, when the Pope for fear that the relics of the founder of the Christian Church could be stolen and desecrated by the numerous barbarian invasions that the Papal State suffered in that period.He decided to send some monks overseas looking for a Monastery in a safe area where the relics of the Saint could be kept far from depredations and once the situation could be less tumultuous to transport them to Rome once again.
It is real the history of the monks that the Papal State sent to the Gulf of Roses with the relics of the Saint.The mystery is .. It was the 7th century the date of construction of that religious building according historical studies was built in the 9th century under Pope Boniface IV who commissioned to erect the Monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes with a crypt to keep safe the rests of St.Peter.But the mystery is still alive..Where were the relics of St. Peter the monks transported long before ? The mystery is further extended and alive.
The existence of that Religious Temple is documented in the year 878 A.D.There are many suppositions. One is the relics were transported from place to place,hidden in a manor or in a small village in the interior of Catalonia.The risk in the of 8th century was the period of several invasions by pirates and Moorish in the area of the Iberian Peninsula..Did it guarded by the Carolingian who recaptured the territory after defeating the Moors ?The other supposition is the monastery was built when the monks landed in Costa Brava and so previous to the date of the certain official construction.Despite that the monastery became an important pilgrimage destination in the 11th and 12th century.
The relics were found anyway in the year 1910 in the ground in proximity of the altar and the most important thing for the Christian Church was that the relics came back to Rome.Apart that in the Monastery were also discovered many treasures consisting in coins,relevant ceramics,silver objects and gold hidden in a wall of the crypt in proximity of its apse.History is always very charming and interesting in every aspect there will be always someone who will discover something of interesting for all that our history is always captivating.y.
The decline of that relevant Christian temple started in the 17th century when it was in several occasions looted and sacked and in the next century abandoned by the monks who moved in other provisional places,including Figueres and in the 19th century the order was suppressed.In the 30s for its historical value it was declared National Monument and Patrimony of Spain and only one year before of the beginning of the Spanish Civil War in the year 1935,it was restored.
The Monastery is one of the most relevant Romanesque constructions in Catalonia and Spain, a majestic stoned complex erected on a Latin cross plan with a ample facade presenting a very charming arched door.It has three nave and a double colonnade consisting in big rectangular columns,others rounded and others reinforced by smaller stoned circular columns with Corinthian capitals placed adjacent to the bigger on a small base which support the arcades of the nave.
Other series of arcades and vaults are the other main elements which reflect the perfect Romanesque architectonic style used in the construction of that masterpiece.A highlight is also the huge size of the central nave leading to the apse,where under it there is the famous crypt.
The cloister was added in the 12th century and it is the focal point of the complex surrounded by other buildings.In the same period was also erected the bell tower on a square plan,the details,material used,height and position reflect of typical architectonic Romanesque style of Lombard school.The bell is flanked by another tower previously built probably as check point on the left side adjacent to one of the external walls of the Monastery and there is another square tower lower than the others probably dating back the same time of the second.
The area of El Port de la Selva is also famous for its Dolmen,the Dolmen de la Taula dels Lladres and there is a construction related to the megalithic period probably dated 4000 years BC.It could considered a sort of construction,a stoned hut composition not very huge but not too small with a large stone resting diagonally on two others placed as walls one highest of the other.There are ancient and medieval legends embracing that Dolmen,as a place about pagan rites.
Another legend is related to a group of robbers of local bandits who plundered the area of the Alt Empordà from Portbou up to Cadaques,along the coast of the Cap de Creus and then retreat to the heights of the Serra de Rodes and they used the area of the Dolmen as their den.
It said that during a dispute between them, during the subdivision of the robberies,a member killed the other thieves near that place and as a sort of local Robin Hood returned the fruits of the numerous robberies to the humble citizens of the area of El Port de la Selva.Another Dolmen is the Paradolmen de la Pallera consisting is a series of secular stones placed in a particular position as a hut and forming a sort of small grotto with a circular surface in its interior.
The resort is also famous for its beaches,who perfectly knows the Costa Brava undoubtedly also knows that resort has among the most beautiful of Costa Brava and Catalonia.The area permits to enjoy
rocky and sandy beaches,a great choice for everyone furthermore exploring the coast until Punta de Cap Terra,it is a continuous succession of untamed inlets and spectacular coves.
Platja del Port de la Selva and Platja del Port de la Vall are two arched wide sandy beaches with crystalline waters and excellent fine sands,while Platja de la Tamariua is a very small beach with a tiny section of sand between rocks in a splendid natural environment.Also Platja del Pas is another one very interesting,it is pretty small and it lies next to the road,a tiny arch flanked by rocky outcrops.
If you want to enjoy something really spectacular and wild the nearest Cap de Creus offers a long list of Calas,many small inlets very wild,a little paradise for all people who loves sea,photographers and the best of Costa Brava,some of them are Cala Torta,Cala Serena,Cala Talabre,Cala Corquell,Cala Prona,Cala Cativa ad many more.
All the Cape is a festival of small beaches many of them are mainly known by locals,very recommended is an educational or a stay of 4-5 days in low season to discover the local platjas and calas of El Port de la Selva and Cap Creus,or for photographers,Tour Operators and Travel Agencies with Spain & Costa Brava as main product can edit a brochure or a very interesting catalogue,encouraging to discover and know better the beauty of Cap de Creus and for photographers a long fascinating album to preserve and to show it in a service.
The beauty of Cap de Creus are the contrasts of lights,sun,shade,the natural environment, forests and rock, bays and coves,many hidden corners and small beaches which appear behind corners where you think the rocky wall continues,crystalline waters and also from the road flanking all the coastline will show you the charm of that land.
Many beaches are or were awarded as best beaches of Catalonia,the mentioned Platja de Pas is one of them,the others have a constant blue flag and they are Natural Patrimony of the Alt Empordà and Cap de Creus.
Naturally all those beaches in the area of El Port de la Selva and Cap de Creus offers the opportunity to practise water sports,such as swimming,diving,snorkeling,water skiing,canoe and kayak,exploring the seabed of that area of Costa Brava is great including sailing and everything connected to nautical sports.The resort has an excellent Club Nautic in the harbour offering the chance to practise many activities.
About spectacular views a great point is to reach Punta de Cap de Terra a magnificent promontory composed by two headlands forming a charming bay and facing the harbour of El Port de la Selva,from there you can admire a magnificent panoramic view of the gulf including the wonderful Punta del A Creu.Another very picturesque and scenic place is a very short distance from the harbour in Cala Tamariua from there is a beautiful panorama over the gulf an if you walk for about 300/400 metres on the right side you will admire a stunning wild bay with turquoise waters.
Another place in the immediate vicinity of El Port de la Selva is to reach the resort the Port de la Vall from there continuing along the marvellous Cala Medusa you will reach another superb promontory with a multitude of wild inlets,that headland is flanked by a stupendous bay with another magnificent view towards the harbour of El Port de la Selva and on the left with the impressive view of Cap de Bol.
The area offers a multitude of other outdoor activities,cycling along the Costa Brava or in the interior is very interesting crossing small villages and the Alt Empordá is a little mine of natural treasures,the same for the mountain bike lovers under the peaks of the Serra de Rodes there are many challenging routes and mixed trails.For all people who likes trekking and hiking the local area is an authentic mecca to enjoy,discovering something of new everyday,there are hills between 350 and 700 m among them the Puig de Queralbs and the San Salvador an area in which is possible to practise paragliding.
The cuisine of the Alt Empordà is the result of the traditions of its interior and the typical maritime cuisine mainly based on fish.The Truita is a delicious kind of Omelette,or Tortilla prepared with eggs containing vegetables as spinach,asparagus,eggplant,artichokes,some are also prepared with cheese,potatoes and fish mainly using cod or also seafood filling the Truita with prawns.
Fish and seafood are always fresh and of high quality,there are excellent specialities using cod,famous are the Bacalao con pans i pinyones,cod prepared adding raisins,olive oil,salt and pinetus,Bacalao Alioli,to the coad is added that famous sauce you can prepare the famous Potatoes Ali e Oli composed by garlic,olive oil,salt and pepper.Mussels,clams and shrimps are often used to prepare excellent plates,notable and delicious are the Langostinos al Cava,prawns cooked using Wine cava.The Suquet de Peix is something you have to try.It is a stew prepared with fresh fish,seafood,vegetables and potatoes really excellent.
Very popular is also the Coca of the Empordà which is similar to the Coca of the Balearic Islands,a kind of Focaccia but sweet.The typical Escudella is another traditional plate,consisting in a soup cooked with minced meat,grated bread,eggs,bacon,garlic and parsley all in a stock and it often accompanies potatoes.The Botifarra is a local spicy pork sausage ideal for appetisers,snack,starters,it can be eaten on a Tostada toasted bread adding olive oil and salt.The Fuet is another special product of Catalonia,a thin salami prepared with pork meat,garlic and pepper ideal for snacks and appetisers.
The traditional Escalivada is also very popular it consists in a series of baked vegtables,such as tomato,yellow and red peppers,onion and eggplant,they are mixed all togetheer with olive oil and salt and a variant is the addition of little pieces of fisg,generally cod.
Often present in the Catalan table is the famed Pa amb Tomaquèt which translated means bread with tomato,it is a sort of bruschetta,consisting in toasted bread adding olive oil,salt,the bread is rubbed with ail and adding tomato juice.The Espinacs amb pans i pinyons consisting in spinach cooked with olive oil adding minced onion,raisins and pinenuts,it can be eaten in different way and also added to the mentioned Coca.About bakery and pastry try and taste the Brunyols fried pastry very similar to the Italian frittelle and the famous Crema Catalana.
The wines are present with a fine selection of red and white,some of them are the excellent Gneis,Cremant, Blau,Aroa and Amic apart th famous Cava.The area of the Empordá also produce fine wines by excellent local grapes Sauvignon,Merlot,Syrah,Carignan and Grenache,the secret of a wide and ample variety of selected wines is the favourable climatic conditions combined with a very fertile soil and the Catalan hills are very suitable for an extensive cultivation of vineyards at a right altitude.
The breeze of the Mediterranean and the winds from the Pyrenees linked to the mild climate present all year are the perfect mix to make savoury and palatable wines,the whites have a great pure colour,very aromatic and fine while the reds are smooth, with body and very tastefully at the first sip.
The strategic position of El Port de la Selva offers different options with important airports not so far,the International Airport of Girona is situated 80,0 kilometres south of the resort and in one hour driving via Figueres you will be at destination.Barcelona El Prat Airport is located at 180,0 kilometres of distance in a couple of hours or less driving you can reach El Port de la Selva.A third option could be the French Airport Rivesaltes of Perpignan situated at 84,0 kilometres north and from there in less than one hour driving you can be in that seaside resort of Costa Brava.
Planning holidays to the Alt Empordà and in particular to the area of Costa Brava in proximity of El Port de la Selva is highly recommended for all people who wants to discover the beautiful coast of that corner of Catalonia,the best of that place it is a little bit of everything,water sports and beaches,art and history,nature and unforgettable landscapes,a genuine cuisine and relaxing walk.
For all that and more if you have an idea to visit one day that corner of the Iberian Peninsula and to enjoy something special El Port de la Selva it is a splendid choice place a beautiful destination to choose without hesitations.
Francesco Mari
Recommended Accommodations in El Port de la Selva area
Hotel Spa Cap de Creus
Hotel Porto Cristo
B&B Cal Mariner
Recommended Restaurants in El Port de la Selva
Restaurant Bellavista
Restaurant Ca l´Herminda
www.cbrava.com
ca.elportdelaselva.cat,
www.hotelcapdecreus.com
www.hotelportocristo.com
www.bedandbreakfast.eu
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