Custonaci is a splendid small Sicilian town,just 18,0 km North East from the capital of the County Trapani nestled between the picturesque interior and the Sicilan western coast,which since centuries ago was named Riviera dei Marmi,the Marble Riviera for the presence of that stone which is quarried in the surrounding area of Custonaci and other nearest municipalities.
Terra du suli land of sun as it said in Sicily,very nice people in Custonaci,a blue sea with crystalline waters where you can mirror yourself on the shade of the splendid silhouette of the majestic Monte Cofano with its marvellous Natural Reserve located on a promontory close to another where is situated one of the pearls of this magnificent coast : San Vito lo Capo.Custonaci is situated in a wide bay called Golfo di Bonagia a gulf which along beautiful straight and curves along the coastline road ends to the Tonnara di Bonagia,a few kilometres from Trapani along the SP 20 the local road and dominated by the historic town of Erice overlooking the Mediterranean as a sentinel.
It is a sort of small paradise where Custonaci, lies,with its approximately 5,300 inhabitants,a land with apart its natural beauty is traditionally and historically famous for its Tonnare and Bagghiu,the building erected for hunting the tuna the first and those kind of fortified courtyards the second I mentioned in a Blog about Scopello,the locals are strong people who always worked hard to live a honest life spending hours, days and weeks on the sea with fishing,or working in the countryside where agriculture was and is another resource which has helped those who remained, many others have migrated in other countries.
The municipality of Custonaci is arranged in a compact way,the centre is located between of the long road Via Asse dei Marmi at south Via dei Comuni and Piazza Campicello,a street and a square which close the centre of the town at north.Via Roma and Via Madonna are two streets which parallely enter directly in the centre, while at the north side there is the Nature Reserve of Monte Cofano and the splendid coastline.The urban agglomeration of Custonaci is a the set of small areas, which make up the neighbourhoods of that municipality such as Baglio Messina, Baglio Mogli Belle,Sperone,Santa Lucia, Scurati, Assieni,Piano Alastre and Purgatorio.
The history of Custonaci,inhabited in prehistoric time is linked to the Sicani the the first settlers of the area and to the Greeks colonists who founded several cities and towns in Sicily and developed a relevant culture in the island.The territory had many rulers,apart Greeks and Sicani also Chartaginians,Romans, ,Moorish,Normans and Swabians,French and Spaniards.
In the period during the rule of Frederick II of Swabia the county was organised in a feudal system and the major part of the current villages and towns were under the influence of noble families mainly from the nearest town of Erice which is just 18,0 km away.The town was under Erice for long time,incorporated in an area called Riviera dei Marmi ,the Marble Riviera,the main resources were and are fishing,agriculture and the extraction of marble.Ended the Spanish Bourbons rule due the reunification of Italy started from Sicily in the 19th century Custonaci joyned in the Kingdom of Italy and in the early 20th century the town was one of the first former villages in the area to leave Erice and becoming an independent municipality.
The name Custonaci has some controversial opinions.The area was colonised by Greeks,in the period of the all the words containing the four Greek letters Akis later transoformed in Aci meant something sharp, could be a rock,a rocky peninsula or something wedge-shaped.
You may have heard for example in the County of Catania Acireale Acitrezza, Acicastello or Acicatena, other cases in the County of Palermo with Capaci and Geraci or Agrigento with the town of Calamonaci, originally the Greek word Aci was Italianised or better Sicilianised from Akis to Aci representing the shape of something,a symbol,a name derived from a geographic area,a coast or a mount and so on.The first version could be from the composition Kustunis which means rock linked to Akis sharp,another version is from a river of the Trapani County currently called Forgia but in the past called Custunachi and another one is from a mythological nymph called by Greeks Chustonaki .
The famous marble of Custonaci and of Riviera dei Marmi is a marble of high quality,known worldwide, Rome and the Vatican have used this marble for many constructions,it is present in some works in St.Peter Basilica.That Sicilian marble called Marmo Perlato,Pearled Marble or the Perlatino di Sicilia from Custonaci,it is the second Italian marble sold in the World after the prestigious and famed marble of Carrara in Northern Tuscany is exported today all around the World and in particular to Saudi Arabia ,United Arab Emirates,Morocco,Spain,Germany,Russia,USA and Singapore
The marble of Custonaci is a great choice for elegant and sophisticated design of interiors,bathrooms,modern halls and chic lounges ,majestic temples and monuments,it is the versatility of this marble to be successful that quality called pearled is the key why so many people in the world fall in love with those stones extracted in Sicily,the Company Cusmar Marmi,Perla Marmi, Ducale Marmi,Sud Marmi have created a little empire,professionally and quality that is the secret of Custonaci and its marbles and its companies exporting that very appreciated stone worlwide.
The visit of the town can commence from Belvedere Giardini Angelo Messina in proximity of the Municipio the Town Hall and its square which is the lively heart of Custonaci,meeting point of locals,for events and festivals,one of them honouring the main resource of Custonaci is the Sagra del Marmi a Festival dedicated to the marble.
The Belvedere is a a fantastic view point,from that magnificent corner there is a wonderful view on the Gulf of of Banfia and the Bay of Cornino,fantastic is also the panoramic over the Mount Erice and the Mount Cofano,in a sunny day Custonaci from its Belvedere its the essence of the beauty of Sicily and of the Mediterranean sea,the crystalline waters,the green of the typical Mediterranean vegetation embellished by picturesque olive groves and vineyards the reflects of the sun light on the mountains are simply something unforgettable.
The visit to the Santuario di Custonaci a Sanctuary dedicated to the Virgin Mary is simply impressive, located at the end of a charming street flanked by palms,the access to the Sanctuary is by a long stoned step and very charming is the floor outside the Church,a splendid composition of stoned slabs.Despite the construction of the building is dated 16th century,the current Sanctuary had a couple of restorations in the 18th century and another one in the 20th century keeping anyway a post medieval aspect with splendid facade with a huge painted rose window over a a wooden door dated 19th century surmounted by pointed arches.
On the sides incorporated on two facades behind of the body of the Church there are two small towers,on the left on with three bells and on the right side another one with a circular white watch and another bell.The interior is a masterpiece of architecture and artistic works,the plan where the Sanctuary was erected is an irregular rectangle with three naves arranged on a Latin cross,the floor is totally in marble of different colours and the central nave is flanked by two lines of columns which support the majestic arcades.
The Baroque style is in Sicily an architectonic highlight and among the most fascinating in the world,one example of Baroque in this religious temple is the beautiful altarpiece dated 17th century decorated with fine marble,the altar is rich of relevant works as some wooden painted statues depicting the Patrons of the town of Erice,San Giuliano (St.Julian) and Sant´Alberto (St.Albert), and a marble statue dated probably the 17th century depicting the Virgin Immaculate.
The highlight of the Sanctuary is placed in the central niche of the presbytery,a magnificent painting dedicated to the Virgin of Custonaci,where St.Mary is sitting on a throne with Jesus child accompanied by Angels,it is the heart of the marble facade,with a wooden frame and flanked by relevant marble columns wit capitols.The Church is totally covered by frescoes,vaults,roof and walls. Adjacent to the building there is the Museum of the Sanctuary displaying beautiful wooden sculptures and other artistic works of relevant value.
The beaches of Custonaci are something really unique,authentic paradise of the North Western coast of Sicily.The Gulf of Bonagia offers several kilometres of virgin sandy beaches,rocky inlets and coves,they are constantly awarded with the Blue Flag,very recommended are Cala Bukutu a beautiful beach in an exotic paradise of crystalline waters,sand and rocks.That beach is famous for the legend of the Virgin of Custonaci and the painting conserved in the Sanctuary when a French ship wrecked on the coast of the Mediterranean in the small bay of Custonaci carrying that wonderful painting depicting the Virgin Mary.
In August to commemorate that event,Custonaci lives one of its magic days with a replica of the landing of the ship with the painting, Cala Bukuku is full of people, locals people of neighbouring towns and from different part of Sicily and tourists,Custonaci is an explosion of enthusiasm,passion there are fireworks, followed by a procession with torches accompanying the image of the Virgin from the centre of the town and to the Sanctuary.
Baia Cornino (Cornino Bay) has always been the natural fishing harbour of Custonaci which still preserve the charming white houses of the fishermen and it also offers a splendid opportunity to enjoy its wonderful beach,there are several chance to practise several water sports,such as sailing, swimming, diving,fishing,exploring the seabed of Baia Cornino is an unforgettable experience for all divers who wants to discover the wonders of the marine flora and fauna of Trapani coast.
Mountain bike and cycling along the coast and in the interior is something spectacular in this area of Sicily.There are several routes,along the coasts,reaching San Vito lo Capo,Scopello the Riserva dello Zingaro and Castelllamare del Golfo,or visiting the magnificent town of Erice.Another beautiful excursion is until the Tonnara di Bonagia located in spectacular bay and from there along the coast reaching Pizzolungo with another unforgettable panoramic view on the Sicilian coast.For who loves trekking the Monte Cofano is the perfect solution for a fantastic excursion you will remember for ever.
The Nature Oriented Reserve of the Mount Cofano is something the visitor can not miss during a stay in Custonaci,its paths are the total essence and soul of the wild and beautiful Sicily,panoramic views on the splendid coastline absolutely unforgettable,the typical Mediterranean vegetation melted with rocks,inlets and coves,the presence of caves and also history.
Very interesting are the ancient Tonnnara also the Torre di San Giovanni the St.John tower dated the 16th century built as check point in the fortified line of defence under Spanish rule and another special attraction i a small Church,the Chiesa del Crocifisso,(the Church of the Crucifix) since long time ago a pilgrimage destination.
The Nature Reserve is an natural Eden of of several trees and plants,pines,oaks,dwarf palms and palmetto,flowers and a rich fauna in particular a wide number of species of birds as gulls,falcons,with a particular mention to the peregrin falcon,wader,kestrel and many others.In the Reserve after archaeological researches were found ancient artifacts,hypothesis,between legend and history are tied to the history of Heraclea Minoa, the ancient city which has been identified and documented by the histories written by Herodotus between Selinunte and Agrigento and currently in the municipality of Cattolica Eraclea in the County of Agrigento.
Heraclea has always created despite the findings in the official place where it is mentioned today some controversial opinions and also some sort of mysteriesHeraclea Minoa the Heraclea of Sicily was founded according legends after a duel between the Greek hero Heracles, son of Zeus and Alacmene against the Hero of the Elimi and son of Poseidon and Aphrodite.Heracles won the duel that according a previous treaty would give the winner a big part of territories in Sicily and the foundation of a town.Hypothesis or legends in opinion of Herodotus and other prominent historians Heracles never founded a city or a town in this lands and the mystery for many is still open.
The Grotta Mangiapane or Grotta Scurati in the neighbourhood of Scurati is another highlight during the visit of Custonaci.It is a natural cave which is protagonist of traditional events,at Christmas period is celebrated a beautiful representation of a living Nativity scene while during summer period the cave hosts a Living Museum.The history of that cave started after the first exploration dated 1870 and during the visit the discovery was relevant,it was inhabited since the Paleolithic era.
Grotta Scurati Mangiapane is the bigger cave in the territory of Custonaci among the several present in the area,the name derives from a local family with that surname who in the 19th century erected in proximity of the cave a group of houses and other buildings for the uses of the families.The area was inhabited by this family until the year 1950 and from there this name.The caves of the area were used in the past by people and some of them were inhabited or used by local shepherds.
The local cuisine of Custonaci is particularly concentrated to one of its traditional products known all around the world the tuna.The exquisite and delicious tuna fished in this area of the Mediterranean has a very special,tastefully flavor,always fresh is cooked in different ways,such asTuna steak,the Bottarga,the Tunnina,the fresh tuna under salt,prepared in sauce and nixed with vegetables, ,present in salads and appetisers.
Trapani county is also famous for its local Cous cous but prepared with fish,other specialities are Spaghetti with Bottarga and other kind of pasta as the traditional Busiati.The Pesto Trapanese is also another proudly product,there are furthermore excellent soups of vegetables,fish and also meat.Beef and pork are cooked in different way,baked,grilled,also stew there is an excellent quality of sausages and cheeses. cheeses
.Trapanese cuisine is typically Mediterranean with a constant use of olive oil,garlic,onion,tomato are always used in the local cuisine and other ingredients often used mint and parsley.
Excellent is the bakery and cakes with the famous Cannoli,Cassate,Spincie,Cassatelle and Mandorlata. .About wines (as I mentioned in the blog of Scopello) apart the famous Marsala,wines,there are othe fine wines as the smooth Erice Doc,Alcamo Doc and Salaparuta are in the category of among the best wine of Sicily,the climate of this area permits a great production of wines of high quality.
If you are planning to plan something of interesting visiting Sicily,as a tailor made tour,holidays a stop,an excursion (I also suggest a stay) to Custonaci is absolutely a great idea.Kind and friendly people always ready to receive the tourists with a warm welcome and the unique beauty of its environment is something will be unforgettable.Sicily is a land always ready to receive all people with its sun,its unique sea and beaches,the beauty of a sunset along the Sicilian coastline or a dawn over a terrace admiring the landscapes full of colours is something special and no problem about the period in Sicily is never cold Sicily is.a Terra du suli,a land of sun,also in small centre as the splendid Custonaci as great experience to remember for ever.
Francesco Mari
Recommended Accommodations in Custonaci
Villa Zina Park Hotel
Greso Casa Vacanze
Hotel Poma
Hotel Il Cortile
B&B La Pergola
B&B Sole Azzurro
Residence Delle Cave
Recommended Restaurants In Custonaci
Ristorante il Cortile (at Hotel il Cortile)
Ristorante Baglio Curtosa
Ristorante Cala Buguto
www.prolococustonaci.it
www.villazina.it
www.gresocasevacanza.it
www.hotelpoma.it
www.hotelilcortile.it
www.bedandbreakfastminaudo.it
www.sole-azzurro.it
www.residencedellecave.it
www.regione.sicilia.it/turismo
www.apt.trapani.it
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