Scopello is one of those places of Sicily so difficult to forget for its impressive seascapes and also for its old tuna fishing traditions which are part of a culture started centuries ago.
Part of the municipality of the splendid coastal town of Castellamare del Golfo in the County of Trapani,it is a little gem of the Sicilian Western coast ,a corner of that marvellous island where the Mediterranean sea shines every time,with a marvellous coastline packed by sandy beaches, small coves and enchanting headlands with unforgettable views.One of its main landmarks are monumental Faraglioni which give that place am epic,wonderful, mysterious and captivating charm.
Just 37,0 km from the city of Trapani driving along the National Road SS 187 through the picturesque interior of the county and then taking the provincial road number 83 which directly leads flanking a string of beautiful stretch of coastline under the Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro a Nature Reserve which is an oasis of a divine paradisee under the enchanting promontory of San Vito lo Capo.
That corner of Sicilian land is where the myth of the Greek colonies who landed to found in the most western side of the island Megale Hellas the historic and ancient Magna Greece, the area was populated by the Elimi,who were not Sicani the former settlers who populated the Central Sicily and were not Siculi,the first inhabitants of the eastern island.
Although and with every probability the first colonists were Athenians, the Elimi were probably direct descendants of another civilisation,born from an illegitimate son of of Anchises,father of the heroic and epic Aeneas, fleeing the devastated Troja,that son was Elymos who was the stepbrother of Aeneas and decided to stay in Sicily founding towns in the Northwestern Sicily among them the mythical and historic Segesta.
The name Scopello is clearly of Greek origin (I wrote a post about that beautiful Greek island called Skopelos in the archipelago of the Sporades Islands),well Scopello has the same meaning,the ancient Greeks called it with the same name which means cliff,that site where was founded the current village.
Local legends and history are mixed in arcane mysteries of many centuries ago,when the Athenians colonists saw that peninsula with its beautiful and picturesque cliffs and faraglioni emerging from the Mediterranean and named it Skopelos, there is also apart that the story or legend was that place old Cetaria called for the sea rich in tuna from which then came the word Tonnara.
In its first historical steps, all that area was under the influence of Chartage,the coasts were conquered by that famed leader called Hamilcar Barca said Barak father of the notorious Hannibal.At the end of the epic Punic Wars between Rome and that powerful city of the current Tunisia,the current site became a Roman settlement and after the fall of the Empire was for a period occupied by the the Vandals.
The Romans back to being owner of the territory which includes Scopello with the Byzantine Empire of which must succumb in the 9th century for the arrival of new rulers,the Moorish led by Asab Ibn Al Furat a prominent member of the Aghlabit Dynasty.
The Arabs in Sicily never formed kingdoms and caliphates as in Andalusia, they subdivided the islands in governorates ruled by influential figures called Al Kadi, tolerant rulers in the sense that in return for taxes paid by citizens called Ghezia,the inhabitants could continued to profess and practise the Christian religion without being converted to Islam,that was also generated by a strong resistance by the locals.
The Arabs called the settlement Usqubul,that civilisation in in Sicily was particularly positive with a new agricultural development,with systems of irrigation,art and architecture and in the case of the current Scopello,they restored in a large scale the activity of the Tonnara,the Tuna Fishing which is one of the historical local highlights.
The advent of a new power in the Mediterranean the Normans who conquered Sicily in the 11th century was the start of new European rulers,continued later under the Swabians who introduced a feudal system,giving the territories to noble families from other countries landed on the Sicilian coasts..
The Emperor Frederick III of Swabia gave Scopello to Oddone di Camerana,a noble knight from Northern Italy and there was in that period a colony coming from the regions of Piedmont and Lombardy mainly from the Lomellina an area corresponding to the territories of the current counties of Pavia, Vercelli, Novara and Alessandria,when that people moved to other centres on the Northern coast,Scopello was Incorporated for a period to the town of Erice.
As the rest of the island,it continued its history under different rulers such as French Angevins,the Spanish Aragons and for a short period under influence of the Kingdom of Piedmont and Sardinia and Austria before to be iincorporated in the Kingdom of Naples in 1738 ruled by the Bourbons.
The local history is very particular in the 19th century.During the operations of the reunification of Italy.After the landing of Giuseppe Garibaldi and his troops in the port of Marsala sent by the Duke of Savoy and King of Piedmont and Sardinia, the inhabitants of the area believed those soldiers who came near the village were new invaders and began to fight against those soldiers next to the Spanish Bourbons along the coast and also in the interior for long time with a strong resistance before being convinced of the idea of the New Italy and joining the Kingdom following the history of the reunification since 1860.
Today Scopello is a peaceful and charming tiny coastal village,with a maze of narrow streets,cobblestone alleys and white houses.It has less than 100 inhabitants,but with several interesting beautiful places to visit,the centre is just like to come back in the time of its ancient past and one of its relevant highlights is the Bagghiu.
Bagghiu is a Sicilian word which translated to Italian language,means Baglio,the Bagghiu in Sicily is protagonist of many different and controversial opinions about its means.In the Eastern Sicily for someone it means as a small Moorish Ribat,a little Arab fort,with fortified walls and a wide patio in its interior,in other places of the island it is a fortified farm with solid walls and one entrance leading to a courtyard.
Someone else consider a Bagghiu a stronghold of the village or a small town inside another,protected by a walled perimeter with inside an area which was used for different purposes and in many cases considered the heart of the old Borgo,the centre of the historic village,on the coastline used by fishermen in the interior by farmers.
The name Baglio or Bagghiu derives from the Arab word Bahah which means courtyard or quad,the Bagghiu of Scopello originally was developed during the Moorish occupation,it is an irregular square space in cobblestone located behind a building with solid and thick walls with an arched doorway leading across a short passage to the courtyard.
On the facade there are a couple of windows and it is flanked by two wings. Once entered in that area of the building you can sit in a relaxing cafe,enjoying a coffee,a drink, a fresh and genuine granite in that picturesque place in which centre lies a big eucalyptus.
The Borgo of Scopello is mainly dated 17th century,The Baglio of Scopello also has controversial opinions,for someone is dated since the medieval era under Moorish rule and probably rearranged during the Norman period,other sources are from a construction erected between the 17th and 18th century and later restored,that hypothesis is anyway pretty remote.
The centre is very small,there are some picturesque white houses developed along charming old streets and a small square with the local Parish Church,the Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie erected in the 60s and dedicated to the Virgin Mary of the Graces.
Another iconic symbol is the Torre Bennistra,a strong and
solid tower overlooking the Tonnara,the Faraglioni and the wonderful
horizon of the Mediterranean sea.That tower was erected on a rectangular plan
it is a construction part of the tradition of the Torri Almenara present in many
Mediterranean coasts, coasts,erected as check point and from there with signals and fires the guards alerted the population in case of attacks from the sea.
In the case of the Torre
Bennistra of Scopello it was built to to defend the coast by the Saracen invasions,
invasions,it was elevated in the 13th century,its name probably derives
from the family Bennistri or Bennisti who ruled Scopello during a
period of possessions based on feudal systems.
It was restored and partially rebuilt during the 16th and 17th century
and it is located on a large and high rocky outcrop which during
sunsets with special reflections of the sun takes a reddish colour.Apart
the Torre Bennistra there are two other towers,one is of medieval origin built probably in the 13th century during Swabian rule but only the ruins are visible.
The other one was erected during the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies in the 16th century as part of the defencive complex,a work by Camillo Camillani an architect son of the famous Florentine engineer, sculptor and architect Francesco Camillani who built the famous and wonderful Fountain of Piazza Pretoria in Palermo.
The Tonnara di Scopello is one of the emblematic
historical highlight of the village and not only for the date of
construction.It was erected in the 15th century and until the 20th century it was active,it was the main local resource and economical engine of the community.
Tonnara in Sicilian means two things the expedition for hunting and fishing the tuna on the boats,but also that place where the nets,cables,accessories,parts for the boat and all the equipment that the Rais organises for fishing.
Usually a Tonnara starts in March,the
work is similar from Tonnara to another but each has its
identity,the Tonnara is a place which in some cases is similar to a Bagghiu in some places it is a
building surrounded by walls and in the interior are prepared all the
operations with the materials placed in a Maffaraticu a building used as a warehouse.
The Rais is the the leader,the director who organise
everything,the preparation and strategies,the routes,giving instructions
to the team,it is a hard work because to prepare a Tonnara is not simple all
has to be in perfect conditions,the tuna is not easy to hunt,all the
results and fruits of a good operation or a negative fishing are
responsibility of the Rais.Rais is that word in Arab means boss or leader,transmitted in Sicily in the 9th century and still used in the Tonnara.
That figure also checks aboard the boats,the work of the Tunnaroti the
men of the team,he gave them orders and furthermore every day very early he also checks the climatic
condition,there is always a visit along the coast to control thee situation of the sea if it is the right day to go offshore fishing or not.
In the negative case of the experdition for bad climatic conditions,the Rais organise the day giving the men works of maintenance,he also organise meetings with the crew and including there is also a geographic study of the route which can be every time different of the previous.
There is also a Sutta Rais or two Sutta Rais depending how
big is the Tonnara,they check and coordinate the work in absence of the
Rais,generally a Sutta Rais can lead the operation on the ground
helping the Rais while on board all depends of the leader.The Tunnaroti
are divided in different roles,the Capu Bastarderi is like an assistant responsible of the movements of the team on a Bastarda the name in the Tonnara terminology of the boat,then there is also a Capu Coro who starts to sing a Cialoma a song in Sicilian and the Piscaturi the fishermen answering to that in a sort of choir.
Other people are part of that organisation,they are called Capu Urdaru,,Cabannisti and Faratichi
people dedicated on board and other dedicated as part of the team in
the catering operations preparing food for the crew,checking all the
accessories of the boats,placing the nets on board and then finished the tuna fishing,they clean it inside receiving orders by the Rais
of maintenance works for the next day too.
A traditional Tonnara is also praying and singing,that is part of the culture since the beginning of the history,it is a religious rite and also a mutual help of the
crew with those Cialoma,those songs also help the rhythm,the action and
the moral of the team during a day of fishing.
The songs are from popular,religious of daily
life,remembering a charming woman or other inspirations, inspirations,including the land and the families,some Tonnare are devoted to a Saint protector,Patron or Patroness or God,all depends from the area of the Tonnara where also the
terminology of the crew is different.
A Tonnara can have different strategies,depending of the place and
the attitude of the tuna there is the Tonnara offshore,far from the
coast and also near the coast,when the tuna is close to the coastline and
immediately dragged to the shore caught in nets and the Mattanza the slaughter of the tuna is different ways.
The
Tonnara construction of Scopello is a double building located a few
meters from the sea with a large courtyard.It was for long time property
of the local families Mannina and Sanclemente later the owners were
religious orders and also nobles as a Baron and a Prince linked to the
Spanish rulers and after the reunification of Italy it came back to local owners.
A short distance from that place walking along the coast after approximately 400,0 m you can see a spendid samll natural bay with turquoise waters between two rocky and sharp tips and further north walking for other ten minutes you can enjoy a superb round promontory overlooking the Mediterranean with enchanting views,ideal place to take a multitude of pictures.
Another very suggested place to admire the beauty of that Sicilian coastline is before to reach the Nature Reserve dello Zingaro,approximately 1,5 km from the Tonnara along the national road,in direction Castellamare del Golfo, the coast is a continuous succession of picturesque inlets and you will admire there two splendid consecutives bays,with spectacular rocky promontories and with an enchanting image of a clean seabed which is a mirror of waters.
Beautiful are the hilly forests in the surroundings around in the interior with a wonderful Mediterranean vegetation,a big number of migratory birds,fantastic paths discovering also apart the stunning coastline,the fascinating interior and it is not a case that the King Ferdinand III of Bourbon in the 19th century visited Scopello more than once,due to his passion for hunting.Along the slopes of the nearest Monte Sparagio,a mountain of 1200 m in altitude was the perfect place to hunt deer,wild boars and hares.
Scopello is one of the two entrances to the beautiful Riserva dello Zingaro which is an authentic paradise of Sicily with many opportunities to walk along enchanting trails admiring the coastline which offers amazing views with a big number of inlets,small bays,tiny coves other Tonnare,forests,a rich flora and fauna, fauna,picturesque cliffs and small beaches.
The natural landscapes are unique,it is the first Nature Reserve of the island and in addition a very historic place with relevant archaeological founds.Scopello is also a great start point of many excursions to the marvellous Segesta,Erice and the Monte San Giuliano which are are unique and unforgettable places and furthermore to explore the splendid coast from Trapani to Mazara del Vallo with a stop in the historic Marsala,land of fine wines a great experience for every visitor.
The interior is also a festival of history,colours,architecture of different period,nature and unforgettable view points from Castelvetrano to Calatafimi and Alcamo coming back on the coast and following in direction Palermo via Castellamare del Golfo,with a stop in the relaxing Balestrate before to reach the splendid Terrasini and the picturesque promontory of Punta Raisi.
The city of Palermo is just 77,0 km from Scopello via the Motorway A29 Palermo -Mazara del Vallo with exit to Castellamare del Golfo and taking then the National Road SS 187.
Scopello offers an excellent cuisine,fish is absolutely fantastic,fresh every time and everywhere you are along all the coastline of the county of Trapani,tuna is one of the highlights cooked in different styles.Famous is the tuna steak,it is used for sauces,minced and added to salads,on cuddura or sfincioni,which are sort of pizzas,the second very traditional in Palermo area.
The Pani Cunzatu,is another speciality consisting in bread with spices,olive oil,anchovies and tomato,the Busiati is pasta homemade a sort of Maccheroni,prepared with vegetables,tuna sauce or seafood while
The Pasta with bottarga of tuna is another traditional plate.
Very typical is also the local Couscous different of the couscous from Tunisia,Morocco and the Maghreb,the Couscous Trapanese is prepared as a stew with fish and seafood and try the Pesto Trapanese which is another highlights.That kind of pesto is very different than the famous Genoese and it is prepared with olive oil,garlic,basil and almonds.
Another local sauce ideal for every kind of pasta is U Pizzutello,a mixed sauce using fish,zucchini, salt, eggplants,pepper and olive oil,of old tradition is also the Mataroccu,which is a typical salad prepared with tomato,salt,olive oil,garlic placed in water,then with the addition of basil and slices of bread and served cold to accompany the meal.
About meat there is excellent lamb and beef.the Invultina a Trpanisa is a sort of beef roll filled with olive oil,grated bread,salt,parsley,garlic and spicy Pecorino cheese while the Ajadina Ccunsata is boiled chicken with garlic,salt,olive oil,parsley and with the addition of mint.
The dessert are many and really delicious Cannoli filled with ricotta cheese,the Cassateddi, are similar than the famous Cassata but much smaller the Mustazzoli,the traditional and famed Cassata and naturally in Sicily everywhere you are one of the emblematic symbol is the famous Granita.Wines are simply excellent next to the local Marsala,there are many kinds of smooth Merlot,Passito,Salaparuta,Erice,Menfi and also an excellent sweet Moscato.
Generally the Sicilian wines are very robust,the local vineyards cultivated at a determined altitude produce grapes with a very vivid colour,that is the signal of the warm sun which shines for about 290/300 days a year giving body and flavour to the fruit.Those wines are immediately tastefully and rich of aroma,very smooth and very suitable for different kind of plates including the white perfect with every kind of fish or seafood, seafood,Salaparuta and Menfi are two classic examples.
The local area is also a paradise for outdoor activities,water sports,sailing,scuba diving is famous there thanks to its uncontaminated and crystalline waters,there is a magnificent seabed rich of unique treasures,the coast is paradise for all adults and children,there are sandy long beaches and also rocky coves.
Many are the chances to practise mountain bike and cycling on road along the splendid coast,trekking and hiking in the Riserva dello Zingaro and in the proximity of the Monte Sparagio a great experience,walking in mountain and admiring panoramic views on the sea.
Scopello and the county of Trapani are authentic treasures all to discover,it is a corner of Sicily you see once and you want to come back soon or immediately,all the island fascinates people for its infinite beauty and Scopello is one of that kind of places you will never forget.
Francesco Mari
Recommended Accommodations in Scopello and Surroundings
Hotel Torre Bennistra
Baglio di Scopello Resort
Antica Cascina del Golfo
B&B Maria
B&B Bernardo´s
B&B Al Sole
Recommended Restaurants in Scopello
Restaurant La Tavernetta
Restaurant La Terrazza di Scopello
Restaurant La Trattoria
Restaurant Lo Zingaro
Restaurant Il Baglio
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