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Aosta | Stupendous Little Rome of the Alps

 

Aosta the capital and major center of the homonymous autonomous region located in a wide basin where the Dora Baltea river flows and crossed by one of its tributaries, the Buthier stream, on the slopes of various mountains such as Becca di Nona, Becca di Viou, Monte Emilius and Pointe de Chaligne, peaks belonging to the Graian Alps.

This city boasts an immense historical, artistic and monumental value with some architectural jewels starting from the Roman era linked to its foundation with the name of Augusta Praetoria Salassorum and for all that and more Aosta could be considered a stupendous, little Rome of the the Alps.

I suggest you start your visit in the eastern area of the city where the Buthier stream flows and where the imposing Arch of Augustus stands, stopping in front of this majestic building that represents the ancient entrance to Aosta erected in 25 BC as a memorial building after the victory of the Imperial troops led by the Consul Terentius Varro over the Celtic tribe of the Salassi.

This one-step arch was developed using local stone called puddinga, measuring 11.5 meters in height, 8.9 meters wide, decorated with beautiful Corinthian columns elevated on a massive base of triglyphs and metopes, details faithful to the architecture of that period.

The original sculptures that adorned this monument have unfortunately not been preserved and we will notice under the arch a wooden crucifix called Saint Vout, or Holy Face added to the structure in the 15th century.

Subsequently, reaching Via Sant' Anselmo at number 66 you can stop in front of what was the birthplace of Sant' Anselmo, famous scholar and religious of the 12th century and one of the major historical figures of all time in Aosta.

 Afterwards walking along via Porta Pretoria which represented in Roman times the Decumanus Maximus of the ancient Augusta Praetoria you will reach the beating heart of the old Imperial colony through Porta Pretoria,monumental access consisting of Three passages, one built for pedestrians and the other two developed for chariots.

The thickness of the material used shows how massive the Roman walls are, which overhang one of the arches for several meters, a structure that rises over 3.0 meters above the original one.

Passing through that gate on the right you will enter the archaeological area where you will admire foundations of over 4.0 meters and wall sectors of over 8.0 meters high, defensive bastions created using travertine and inside resting on buttresses where the passages for the guards were made. Of the original construction remain some towers including the famous Tour Fromage.

Continuation with the imposing Roman Theatre, 22.0.0 metres high, which dates back to after the Imperial conquest in the Augustan era, boasting a beautiful façade made of puddinga stone and arches settled with three sets of large windows in the upper section.

The virtual reconstruction of the Theatre by experts has brought to light its original dimensions, a space with a depth of about 7.0 meters by a length of 45.0 meters and a capacity of about 4000 spectators. What can be admired today corresponds to the hemicycle steps where people used to attend the events, while as far as the wall scenery and the orchestra space are concerned, only the foundations can be seen.

During the era of activity there was a portico that served as a connection from the theater to the amphitheater, a section in modern times separated from the wall section of the adjacent Convent of Santa Caterina and despite the modifications the 60 original arches are still well preserved.

In a short, pleasant walk you can reach the beautiful Chanoux Square where we will admire the spendid neoclassical Palazzo Comunale also called Hotel de Ville due to the regional bilingualism in force.

On that large, elegant square takes place every year the Fair of Sant'Orso with the exhibition of numerous stalls offering a wide choice of edible products and handicrafts.

Continuation with the Cathedral, magnificent building dating back to the 10th century with some Gothic details, the first ecclesiastical seat of the city that boasts two beautiful medieval bell towers and a neoclassical façade completed in 1848 that replaced the previous Renaissance.

The structure, which was originally completely Romanesque, had Gothic influences from the 12th century visible inside with the beautiful cross vaults, a beautiful choir dating back to the twelfth century and the cloister developed between the 15th and 16th centuries.

The interior was extensively modified by Giorgio di Challant in 1400 and contains numerous important works of art such as a cycle of Romanesque frescoes of the 11th century and the high altar of the presbytery created by a sepulchral ark of Roman origin.

On the wall behind the altar we will admire a magnificent mosaic made in two phases, the first dating back to the twelfth century with the depiction of the four rivers of Paradise, the year and its twelve months while the one dated XIII century shows the rivers Tigris and Euphrates, animals and monsters.

Also of great importance is a wooden choir of the fifteenth century with reliefs of Saints and allegorical figures and the tomb of Thomas II of Savoy.

Afterwards visit the Cathedral Museum which preserves various objects of great value such as reliquaries, marble sculptures, wooden icons, an ivory diptych of the Emperor Honorius of 406, a Roman cameo with a woman's head and a missal of the fifteenth century decorated by Giacomo Jaquerio.

It’s time for your lunch I suggest a mixed appetizer based on Motsetta, Arnad Lard and Boudin, among the first courses Favò or Tartiflette, second courses to choose between

Crêpes alla Valdostana with Fontina and Ham with side dish of Rocket and Dent de Lion or Fricandeu with Slice of Polenta with Gratin of Toma.

 Walking along Via Abate Chenoux, which winds along the walls, you can reach the beautiful Piazza Roncas where the Renaissance palace of the same name stands and the Archaeological Museum. 

Just behind this building that houses the exhibition stood the ancient Roman Forum which had an area of over 1500 square meters and it was the vital center of the ancient Imperial settlement.

Moving towards the southern side of the square where the craft workshops and merchants' structures were originally located, while on the opposite side there was the area dedicated to the veneration of the Gods under a portico, on the destroyed side you will find a gallery that leads to a place where the baths of Augusta Praetoria were discovered after some archaeological research work, although only a section was totally found.

Continuation along Via Croix de Ville which, together with the nearby Via de Tiller, represents the Aosta shopping area with boutiques, craft shops, food shops and typical products.

After lunch, continue with the Religious and Monumental Complex of Sant' Orso, developed in the early Middle Ages, an emblem of regional Romanesque art elevated on the space previously occupied by a necropolis.

In an adjacent square stands the beautiful bell tower, while the Collegiate Church that we will visit was built at the behest of Sant'Orso, originally with a nave and then considerably modified by Bishop Anselmo, acquiring a new appearance with three large naves.

The architectural interventions carried out in the 15th century by Giorgio di Challant, who was the prior of the Collegiate Church, were purely dedicated to the reconstruction of the façade, which underwent a radical change with the addition of a new ogival portal developed inside a large ghimberga and decorative elements in terracotta.

Visiting the interior you will appreciate the magnificent 15th century frescoes of the presbytery and one in particular depicting Sant'Anselmo developed on the ceiling of the central nave next to a cycle of medieval frescoes dating back to the 11th century representing the Life of Christ and Holy Martyrs, a beautiful wooden choir and the crypt developed in the 11th century using Roman columns from patrician buildings in decay of the city.

You will then enter the magnificent cloister where 43 of the 52 pre-existing capitals stand out, depicting various biblical stories, scenes with mythological animals, lives of saints with reference to historical episodes from the Old and New Testaments, a masterpiece in Provençal style dating back to 1133.

The visit of Aosta can be considered over, this city offers the visitor an immense historical heritage to be admired and enjoyed, a splendid city that you will surely remember with immense pleasure with images that will remain etched in your memories for a long time.

 

Link : https://www.lovevda.it/en

 

Where to Stay | Recommended Accomodation

HB Aosta Hotel & Balcony Spa

Hotel Milleluci

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