Schwabing is as a sort
of magic word linked to a magnificent artistic movement born in Germany, the outstanding Jugendstil art in a cultural
borough of Munich, unique in its kind constantly highlighted by a captivating atmosphere, a very special district of one of
the most fascinating German cities and visiting that urban marvel it is always a great experience
that every tourist has to try once in a lifetime breathing the incomparable atmosphere of a site able to transmit vibrant sensations and marvellous feelings in a while once entered in its boundaries.
That magnificent big neighbourhood of that spectacular Bavarian city represents a piece of considerable history to remember forever for many historical and cultural reasons which marked many very important chronological stages of that stunning metropolis enchanting all Europe and also for that there is not another Schwabing in all that Nation and in the World.
That magnificent big neighbourhood of that spectacular Bavarian city represents a piece of considerable history to remember forever for many historical and cultural reasons which marked many very important chronological stages of that stunning metropolis enchanting all Europe and also for that there is not another Schwabing in all that Nation and in the World.
Enclosed within the famous neighbourhoods of Neuhausen, Lehel,
Milbertshofen and Maxvorstadt with its current 110,000
inhabitants it became officially a district of Munich in 1890 and since then it began in a
very short time to be the cultural core of the major centre of Bavaria becoming one of
most famous and favourite destinations for a large variety of prominent artists, not only
Germans but coming from several countries of the world.
The heart of that district was mainly developed in
the 19th century around
two relevant urban arteries such as Ludwigstrasse and Leopolstrasse which
are still today very busy and bustling avenues well known for different kinds of activities arouse along that couple of iconic axes and all that large area enclosed between those emblematic boulevards quickly was transformed in a cultural and artistic cradle with Munich
protagonist as epicentre and reference at international scale.
The origin of its name probably derives by Suuapinga
which means in modern German language Schwabenland which translatation corresponds to
land of solution and
also that historic denomination is closely related to the incomparable spirit, soul, profile and essence of that stupendous metropolitan legend.
The descendants of the famous and historic Swabian dynasty which ruled that land donated that territory to an ecclesiastic Institution consisting in the Monastery of Schäftlarn and later in the current area was also erected a small fortress.
The first official historic documentations certifying the existence of that fascinating and captivating place are dated the late 8th century. It was concretely in 782 when Schwabing was founded reaching in a very short time a notable relevance, a date which is furthermore previous to the official foundation of Munich which took place in the 12th century exactly in 1158.
The descendants of the famous and historic Swabian dynasty which ruled that land donated that territory to an ecclesiastic Institution consisting in the Monastery of Schäftlarn and later in the current area was also erected a small fortress.
The first official historic documentations certifying the existence of that fascinating and captivating place are dated the late 8th century. It was concretely in 782 when Schwabing was founded reaching in a very short time a notable relevance, a date which is furthermore previous to the official foundation of Munich which took place in the 12th century exactly in 1158.
A walk in that fascinating district is like to enter in a sort of magic place which
immediately bewitches everybody generating the desire to discover and learn everything about that superb environment trying to know
metre by metre its secrets and attractions including in its most remote corners.
Once there it is enough just a few minutes to understand that you are facing a true mine of culture, art and creativity are visible in a while in its streets, buildings, monuments, taverns and including in the air which spreads something highly appealing and in many cases difficult to explain.
Once there it is enough just a few minutes to understand that you are facing a true mine of culture, art and creativity are visible in a while in its streets, buildings, monuments, taverns and including in the air which spreads something highly appealing and in many cases difficult to explain.
Schwabing is a sort of a little world packed by several marvels and
amazing things inside a big world rich of history and full of
activities, indisputable landmark of that marvellous Bavarian municipality with an image which transformed itself from a simple rural site in an icon and symbol
for the presence in different historic periods of famed thinkers, writers and philosophers who landed there choosing without hesitations that site as residence or returning in its boundaries very often.
A big merit of its successful fame, charm and appeal
is undoubtedly due to that artistic movement so called Jugendstil developed
in that quarter thanks to a multitude of renowned artists who projected created and developed in architecture,
literature and also lifestyle all that which is still extremely alive
nowadays showing all around its surface, a strong identity and an unmistakable image inherited
since a long time ago extremely different than other neighbourhoods and that is certainly part of what makes that site unique and inimitable.
That charismatic borough was mainly developed with the construction
of new superb buildings especially between 1899 and 1901,
many of those works were led by the architect Theodor Fischer who
launched and used that kind of German Art Nouveau as an instrument of progress, innovation, desire to establish a marked identification of new architectural canons and including a defined philosophical meaning.
That wonderful movement conquered very quickly many people worldwide not only for its magnificent architectural lines which brought a revolution in the entire artistic panorama but also for its ideas, concepts and philosophy closely related to a contemporary renaissance in that time without equals.
The Jugendstil was in its kind an engine with a special spark able to switch on all the deepest inspirations of every single artist spreading with enthusiasm and fervent passion the immense desire to show the personal talent and skills in an action focused to leave indelible imprints and marks in urban settings with architectural masterpieces but much more in the society.
That wonderful movement conquered very quickly many people worldwide not only for its magnificent architectural lines which brought a revolution in the entire artistic panorama but also for its ideas, concepts and philosophy closely related to a contemporary renaissance in that time without equals.
The Jugendstil was in its kind an engine with a special spark able to switch on all the deepest inspirations of every single artist spreading with enthusiasm and fervent passion the immense desire to show the personal talent and skills in an action focused to leave indelible imprints and marks in urban settings with architectural masterpieces but much more in the society.
That district is formed by a dozen of blocks that you
can from far to compare to the "apples" “present in several American cities,
every corner of Schwabing boasts a very distinctive image of a place with strong own features so far from other city's areas equally beautiful but undoubtedly less appealing and not representing a sort of magnet able to magnetise and capture an immediate interest and all that is an indisputable quality of that emblematic site.
Someone often has compared that neighbourhood as a sort of mix of Greenwich Village of New York, Montmartre or Quarter Latin of Paris, Mala Strana of Prague, Brera of Milan or including in something to the Jordaan of Amsterdam not in terms of architectural profile but for a very marked artistic spirit and for all what was created about cultural life in those places.
Someone often has compared that neighbourhood as a sort of mix of Greenwich Village of New York, Montmartre or Quarter Latin of Paris, Mala Strana of Prague, Brera of Milan or including in something to the Jordaan of Amsterdam not in terms of architectural profile but for a very marked artistic spirit and for all what was created about cultural life in those places.
It is not easy to make a comparison among all those captivating realities but you can undoubtedly take something from all those famed
bohemian districts of different cities and it is certain you will find
similarities and some common aspects but Schwabing is simply Schwabing with all the
best and unique things it offers.
Currently, that neighbourhood retains its very
distinctive architectural style extremely rooted and greatly preserved with also some beautiful and well conserved
Baroque masterpieces but it’s that style called Jugendstil the main protagonist, true artistic portrait of that site extremely successful yesterday and greatly admired today.
That kind of movement is classified in an ample
niche of arts
whose name originates from the magazine Jugend meaning young founded in 1896
by Georg Hirth, a charismatic figure born and bred in Schwabing. eminent journalist, publisher and writer who with his creation had the aim to popularize Art Nouveau and in the same year saw the light even Simplicissimus, a satirical weekly magazine created by Albert Langen and since then both
celebrated their success with a strong impact and influence into the entire
German society.
That late 19th century was a period mainly characterised by a sublime joie de vivre, enjoying the great intellectual vitality not only artistic but also social, political and philosophical in Schwabing, a site where lived for a period also famed figures as Lenin and
Trotsky,
two names in that time almost unknown but later able to change the history of
their country.
That emergent urban reality was since then studied, admired, loved and
taken as example for the relevant and numerous inspirations born there
generated by the result of constant and continuous meetings among characters
always ready to produce and launch new ideas and proposals which left impressive and
considerable cultural marks in its boundaries but also transmitted the world several direct deep concepts and messages.
While Jugend was a sort of generator of modernist ideals Simplicissimus also played a role very special, a satirical and also provocative instrument which also
thanks to its unusual sarcastic spirit was a great new attraction in the
cultural and social life of the Bavarian city entering in the sympathy of the highest
cultural spheres day by day with very influential impulses and signals of desire of innovation and in
a very short time reaching popularity all Germany as something considered peculiar in some cases for many articles against the Church and the Kaiser but with a clear call to
change the country.
That publication was in that time something unique in
its kind and it became protagonist in a society which was in those years despite the presence of eminent minds from the other side
pretty conservative and sometimes hostile to bohemian movements highlighted by a sharp criticism towards that " new cultural wave "who had a strong
desire to mutate the world in a flash including considered by someone too related to
revolutionary ideas with their major exponents compared to sort of martians who radically wanted to reverse the reality lived in that time.
The major part of the Jugendstil movement leaders with those new
philosophies were not loved especially by the high social class and the Ecclesiastic environment which
often felt themselves derided and considered démodé and frequently challenged to
mutate their schemes and visions often classified as totally retro.
For all that and more that Magazine received approvals
by the most influential artistic bohemian nomenclature always searching new openings to launch strong
signals a bit tired of the same unchanged social situations and it became a fresh
intellectual resource highly innovative in a city which already had
developed year by year a relevant cultural entourage with a good number of notorious characters ready to be protagonists but probably waiting for the right time to start all together that desired mutation.
Simplicissimus found its cultural headquarter a Literary Cafe which became a frequent destination of prominent figures such as Theodore Heine, Julius Beck, Ludwig Thoma, Frank Wederkind and Olaf Gulbransson among others. Next to them came other influential characters in the 20's such as Thomas Mann, Herman Hesse and Gustav Meyrink and all that created an incredible fascination because that instrument of information and that establishment started to work as a bipolar arm with a base and a means of communication.
They found a notable support in those popular exponents who had a queue of fans in the new generation who saw in that place and publication a sort of rosy future and something which was totally different than other medias poor of contents or gray taverns of that time considered standard and boring with a total lack of enthusiasm.
Simplicissimus found its cultural headquarter a Literary Cafe which became a frequent destination of prominent figures such as Theodore Heine, Julius Beck, Ludwig Thoma, Frank Wederkind and Olaf Gulbransson among others. Next to them came other influential characters in the 20's such as Thomas Mann, Herman Hesse and Gustav Meyrink and all that created an incredible fascination because that instrument of information and that establishment started to work as a bipolar arm with a base and a means of communication.
They found a notable support in those popular exponents who had a queue of fans in the new generation who saw in that place and publication a sort of rosy future and something which was totally different than other medias poor of contents or gray taverns of that time considered standard and boring with a total lack of enthusiasm.
For many young the magazine and that Cafe became the hope to escape from the routine atmosphere of a reality which needed to turn page reading news unique and extremely challenging frequenting a site listening someone very charismatic with innovative ideas.
That iconic Cafe was a sort of emblematic meeting point calling a multitude of other artists and philosophers who loved to express and illustrate their new messages related to literature, art, architecture, politic in a progressive way. It was a cradle of thinkers who in a short time captured the attention of the entire district, in a very short time the city, Germany, Europe with a quickly resonance just a few years later all around the world.
Schwabing was transformed in a sort of great lively cultural theatre with a multitude of renowned personalities who frequented that Cafe expressing with enthusiasm many new concepts which became the intellectual vocabulary and vademecum of that artistic and philosophical movement linked to the always successful Jugend, all them with a common denominator mainly related to changes, hopes and dreams.
That site ans magazines represented in their kinds for that borough of Munich as a flag to wave , a kind of coat of arms to exhibit considered venerated emblems for that Jugendtstil all focused to be leader and example to follow with or without utopias highlighted by an extreme creativity applied to the reality with the aim to create an atmosphere which had a simple but marked message saying "all is possible and nothing is impossible".
Schwabing for all that
in many cases was the charismatic spirit able to transmit a large mass of
ordinary people new realities who started to believe in a new Germany and all that crossed
borders with that quarter of Munich reaching a considerable popularity abroad.
Unfortunately the Cafe was totally destroyed by the allied bombing in the tragic event linked to the 2nd World War. After the devastation which took place in those sad 40's it was rebuilt and it is visible today at 57 Turkenstrasse identified with the name Alter Simpl. The previous active life continued to be in that new headquarter alive as before despite a new era with many mutations due to the times of the post-war.
There was also apart literature and press movement which together were in their kinds the pioneers of that considerable success as arms of promulgation also a great boom
in architecture thanks to Jugend magazine which was the gateway to create talented emergent architects who developed works which nobody could
imagine since then with outstanding masterpieces which conquered Europe in a while.
The Jugendtstil architectural projects were in their kinds the identical expression in art of what represented what people read launching new innovative lines highlighted by high facades, sinuous outlines and with decorations studied to live in harmony with all what there was around them representing allegoric figures, stained glass windows, different materials and tonalities, all was permitted without to disfigure the urban environment.
The main concept was that to suprise, spreading creative expressions of art leaving marks the human eye could appreciate in a while,all with the mission to transmit joie de vivre also in the aesthetic representations escaping from the past opening a new cycle.
The sacred Jugendstil vademecum said no clons, every artist had to show his skills and true talent able to write an indelible signature visible in a building including in the smallest details as a corner of a pediment, an hidden part of an outline in the upper section of a structure or in lateral section of a side wall too.
The Jugendtstil architectural projects were in their kinds the identical expression in art of what represented what people read launching new innovative lines highlighted by high facades, sinuous outlines and with decorations studied to live in harmony with all what there was around them representing allegoric figures, stained glass windows, different materials and tonalities, all was permitted without to disfigure the urban environment.
The main concept was that to suprise, spreading creative expressions of art leaving marks the human eye could appreciate in a while,all with the mission to transmit joie de vivre also in the aesthetic representations escaping from the past opening a new cycle.
The sacred Jugendstil vademecum said no clons, every artist had to show his skills and true talent able to write an indelible signature visible in a building including in the smallest details as a corner of a pediment, an hidden part of an outline in the upper section of a structure or in lateral section of a side wall too.
Unfortunately the war destroyed many important
buildings in the district but today you can still admire a good number of beautiful
examples of that sumptuous style and all them pretty
well preserved.
Munich Institutions very sensitive in the preservation
of that historic, architectural and cultural patrimony of the city it always defended the
image of Schwabing which is synonym of pure art and that cultural district is still greatly
conserved with efforts because it is part of the Bavarian, German and the world history yesterday, today, tomorrow and forever.
That neighbourhood in different periods created new
generations of artists gaining fame with an impressive presence of poets, intellectuals, musicians, composers, painters including revolutionaries and not just architects, jounalists, philosphers or writers who embellished with their stunning gems or inspired that special quarter.
All that mix of eminent characters and distinguished
figures in a sort of unitary movement created the myth of Schwabing. Several
prominent minds gave life to that Munich area which was centuries ago a small
and peaceful village becoming an icon of the most important Bavarian city which also thanks to that became a cultural capital well known worldwide.
The borough has several attractions starting from the
former central Feilitzschplat, a wide bustling square later called Münchner
Freiheit crossed by the eternally lively avenue Leopoldstrasse.
Its name changed more than once and in 1933 in the period in which the
National Socialist Party started to rule Germany the name was Danziger Freiheit which
translated means the Freedom of Danzig, the current Polish city of Gdansk once
part of Germany.
After the 2nd
World War concretely in 1947
the name was further mutated as previously mentioned in Münchner Freiheit in memory of the resistance group Freiheitsaktion
Bayern which translated means the Action for Freedom of Bavaria which
called all the citizens in an intense rebellion against the regime with a large protest for the
total devastation of the city which was waiting for the arrival of the American
troops.
The history of that event related to that date is
through the horror of those terrible years lived in Munich. That group was
composed by approximately 500 people who on April of 1945 occupied the state radio broadcasting advertisements located
north of Schwabing
with that action invited the the inhabitants to to leave the support of the Third Reich.
with that action invited the the inhabitants to to leave the support of the Third Reich.
All that happened immediately after the former Governement transmitted by radio a message to the population to resist until the end, a message which had as main phrase a no
surrender to the enemy but that people wanted a peaceful
solution which would prevent further the destruction of the entire city and
above all more victims and other tragic undesired events.
The outcome of that act of opposition like many others
in that time was almost unfortunate however many years later in the collective
memory of Munich runs that history as reminiscent the impetus and the courage
to say enough and that is the area in which a tangible scenery evokes the
twilight of the 2nd World War.
Münchener Freiheit is for many people a site to
remember forever as seat of an act in city which was originally the stronghold of the National Socialist Party since the 30's much more than the capital of the country Berlin.
The square is currently a popular meeting point
for locals and tourists, there are some cosy cafes on both sides and in front
of one of them was placed a statuedepicting the actor Helmut Fischer called Munich Franze.
During the period of Advent on that iconic
urban space is celebrated the beautiful Christmas Market which is undoubtedly
a great attraction, a special event which is something unique in its kind for
its lively and fascinating atmosphere to live day by day with extreme enthusiasm,
an appointment in which Munich next to its famed Oktoberfest shows all its superb beauty and charm, so magic,
vibrant and extremely bustling.
Dominated by the image of the futuristic tram station inaugurated
in 2009 which is also the
terminal of the tram number 23 that relevant cross point is framed
by a few examples of Jugendstil architectural masterpieces in particular the house situated
at the civic number 151 in Leopolstrasse, a great work linked to that
kind of iconic style.
On the north side lies Erlöserkirche the splendid Evangelical
Lutheran Church of the Redeemer which is the oldest Protestant Church of
the district, a Religious building which was built between 1899 and 1901 by the architect Theodor
Fischer.
Münchner Freiheit considered the beating heart of that borough also has its Metro station, a relevant focal point of the Bavarian Capital crossed by the lines 3 and 6 which run in two
different directions and it is one of the first tube stations of Munich established in 1971. In 2008
and 2009 it was
completely rearranged by a talented lighting designer called Ingo Maurer.
The side walls of the subway station are painted in
lemon yellow colour and the pillars in a dark blue ceramic tonality while the
colour of the branches were arranged in a kind of mystical manner stood out
with a play of special trendy light.
The building is projected on the ceiling creating a
very attractive atmosphere because it is covered by mirror squares and also in
that despite for someone it is a building pretty peculiar it reflects the
artistic soul and spirit of Schwabing.
The signs with the name of the station are either in blue, the same colour of
the line 6 while the orange is the tonality used for the line 3. Also in that
kind of aesthetic choices admiring that place you will understand why that neighbourhood is so special and that view is a simply appetiser before to see the
rest of that unique and distinctive borough.
From the station heading south down the street
Leopoldstrasse walking for approximately one kilometre you can reach Siegestor,
an iconic point of the city lined up the Gate of Victory with a passage packed by busy
shops, cosy bars, fine restaurants, interesting bookstores, clubs, famous cinemas, street vendors,
a very bustling hallway frequented by thousands
of residents and tourists every day.
Over time around Schwabing were created many areas
with spaces for wildlife outdoor in locations which are also witnessing of the
growth and history of the entire district.
One of them is certainly Luitpold Park, a wide
green lung inaugurated in 1911 in honour of the 90 years of the Prince Regent Luitpold of
Bavaria and it is also famous because it became the deposit of rubble after
the 2nd World War.
There it can be seen a hill approximately 10,0 metres
high made by the remains of destroyed houses transported in that verdant space when the
inhabitants were trying to rebuild the city at the end of that infamous historic
event of the 40's.
Luitpoldpark was a present which Munich donated the
Prince Regent Luitpold in occasion of his birthday in 1911 and instead of a cake with 90 candles was arranged that
park with 90 lime trees and a monument consisting in a
central Obelisk dedicated to that Royal figure.
In the middle of that large environment you will notice
a captivating building consisting in a Baroque house called Bambergerhaus.
That construction was originally located in the city of Bamberg and a
wealthy merchant of Munich in 20 years cut in pieces it transporting all its
sections to the Capital of Bavaria placing that structure once rebuilt in
the place you can see nowadays currently hosting a restaurant.
The northern side of that magnificent huge area consists of
a 37, 0 meters high artificial mound created by the rubble of materials and on
the top you can see a memorial cross.
That section in addition is submerged in a colony of gardens
called Schräbergärten, a beautiful scenic setting in which was established a very big public swimming pool called Georgemschwaige only open during summer season.
Behind the School of Psychology the park
continues west of the neighbourhood in proximity of the area corresponding to the
district of Neuhausen and not far is situated the iconic Nymphenburg Palace,
former summer residence of the Kings of Bavaria, a stunning complex which boasts
among the most attractive gardens of the city and Germany.
That immense verdant marvel is one of the largest of the
metropolis, it is as marvellous festival of colours in spring, very frequented in
summer enjoying sunny days, pretty
romantic in autumn but also very captivating in winter when it is covered by
snow.
Another attraction you can not miss is Seehundbrunnen situated in Viktoriaplatz, a very charming square consisting in a fountain which name translated means
fountain of the seal, a relevant landmark highlighted by a splendid
jet of water.
Erected in 1936
by the sculptor Emil Manz, an artist who was
specialised in works representing animals with excellent results as you can
admire in that stunning example which is one of his most iconic representations
and masterpieces all time.
You can admire another monumental fountain is located in Ernst Toller Platz, a further superb square of Schwabing and it is that of sieben Zwegen representing the the fairytale seven
dwarfs. It was a notable work created by Barbara Hamann and upright in 1999 in front of the Gymnasiums
Oskar Von Miller funded by a bequest that the city
got from a couple who had decided to build it.
That work consists of seven pointed caps of bronze
similar to headgear of fairy midgets and from the top of each comes out a jet
of water rather weak.The name refers to Ernst Toller who wrote letters from
a prison in which he remained aisled for five years starting in 1919 for having
participated in the Bavarian socialist riots. Toller wrote:"I send you
a book of fairytale because it frees us from the curse of being nothing more
than human being, because the tale is sister to every animal, every flower and
every watercourse".
The famous magazine as previously mentioned gave
its name to a literary Cafe-Bistro that after being destroyed by bombing was
rebuilt with the name Alter Simpl located in Türkenstrasse at the
civic number 57 and it is a must deserving a visit for all what it represented for Schwabing.
Highlighted by its light facade with protagonist a large red bulldog logo placed under its name in gothic characters the interior is very captivating rustic and at the same time very stylish and welcoming highlighted in a spacious environment by appealing smoke-stained walls and trendy dark wooden tables.You can stop there to breathe the atmosphere of that emblematic site enjoying a cool beer or tasting some of its specialities such as the typical Weisswurst, Schweinsbraten, Burgers or a delicious Schnitzel too.
Highlighted by its light facade with protagonist a large red bulldog logo placed under its name in gothic characters the interior is very captivating rustic and at the same time very stylish and welcoming highlighted in a spacious environment by appealing smoke-stained walls and trendy dark wooden tables.You can stop there to breathe the atmosphere of that emblematic site enjoying a cool beer or tasting some of its specialities such as the typical Weisswurst, Schweinsbraten, Burgers or a delicious Schnitzel too.
Despite the war destroyed many bars, studios, houses
and villas some great masterpieces of stunning Jugendstil were saved, restored and refurbished and today
they still show their majestic and stylish architectural image of the past.
You can see some great examples absolutely
outstanding at the following addresses and places : 11-22 Römerstrasse
11 Ainmillerstrasse, 19 Franz Joseph Strasse, Pacelli Palast at 8-10
Georgenstrasse, 77 Leopoldstrasse and a series of houses overlooking
Leopoldpark, all them are among the best works made in Munich and Germany
and they worth to be seen of course.
Taking a look to those fabulous buildings you will be
certainly delighted, in architecture the Jugendstil movement is in some cases
similar for canons, concepts and ideas to the Catalan Modernism but with
its own identity.
That kind of art is an exaltation of applied and
graphic arts with the mission to create something of unique and inimitable
able to generate a strong visual impact with a respect for the architecture of the past as possible
inspiration in determined kinds of lines but with the development and glorification of
the new.
The Jugendstil in Germany took partially inspiration
from the notorious British movement called Arts & Craft but
it was probably much more influenced by the Belgian-French School led by
the famed master from Antwerp Henry Van de Velde, architect but also interior designer and painter very active in his motherland, France but
also with a notable influence in Germany with some relevant works in Weimar, Cologne, Hagen and Jena.
The concept of that magnificent movement is pretty deep starting from the word
Jugend which means Youth reflecting something of new and young and stil which means style. That kind of architecture is characterised in the execution of new shapes using abstract phases, with the presence of some hard lines
but at the same time soft and highlighted by sinuous curves meeting themselves in points stratetically studied, something
without equals and made to surprise at first sight.
Another aspect is that in the final result of a work
had to be exalted the sublimation of an individual creativity, a specific imprint of
a work linked to that philosophy, elements, details, figures and representations have to be the product of a clever mind, does not exist to copy or to establish a vulgar replica.
In some cases despite the innovative style some artists added to the new something partially taken by the old executed in a modern key as a pediment but decorated and shaped in a different way and you will notice in some examples despite the extreme research of a creative execution of a line there is also in some details a loyal respect of the most severe symmetry in determined sections of the layout because one of the main concepts it is pure creativity but never bizarre or anomalous inventions.
In some cases despite the innovative style some artists added to the new something partially taken by the old executed in a modern key as a pediment but decorated and shaped in a different way and you will notice in some examples despite the extreme research of a creative execution of a line there is also in some details a loyal respect of the most severe symmetry in determined sections of the layout because one of the main concepts it is pure creativity but never bizarre or anomalous inventions.
The Jugendstil was protagonist along all the National
territory from Hamburg to Stuttgart but the most important centres and
prestigious schools were undoubtedly Munich and Darmstadt.That kind of German Art Nouveau later particularly
influenced the Baltic and Scandinavian countries in which born very
interesting movements with strong inspirations taken by that movement born and
bred in Germany.
That style found in those places for ideas,
affinity and urban environments probably some of the most favourite sites to
develop new artistic expressions but in many cases the artistic inspirations of
those Nordic artists and architects found in the German masters their reference and undoubtedly a great source and example to follow for their more
acclaimed works. (I wrote a post about Cat House in Riga linked to that if you are interested)
Leopoldstrasse is another local highlight, a great boulevard which starts from the district of Maxvorstadt leading through the quarter
and another neighbourhood called Milbertshofen. It is the extension of Ludwigstrasse until Siegestor where that artery changes name to
Leopoldstrasse crossing Münchner Freiheit Platz and leading to the northern
suburbs of Munich.
That large and busy avenue as says its name is dedicated to
Leopold of Bavaria son of the Prince Regent Luitpold emblematic and historic
figure who had a strong and charismatic influence in that Southern German State and member of a
dynasty who made the history of the entire land.
The imposing Sankt Ludwig Kirche Parish and
University Church of the borough is another site you cannot miss during the
visit of. Elevated during the reign of King Ludwig I by the
architect Friedrich von Gärtner, that talented artist assembled
a clever and creative mix of styles taking Neo-Romanesque and Byzantine inspirations
linking them and honouring with the name of the Saint that iconic Monarch.
The silhouette of that splendid Religious construction is certainly a great attraction, a superb masterpiece because it presents two
styles very different for lines and architectural concepts extremely far each other in terms of execution and it is pretty difficult to match in a fusion them but you can admire how all is
harmoniously combined making the view absolutely stunning.
Simply beautiful are the twin majestic towers with
arched windows and spires perfectly established in symmetry with the
central body highlighted by a stupendous high facade boasting a magnificent rose window
reminiscent the most finest and classical Romanesque style placed beneath a gable upper section
and above a line of five statues inserted in scenic niches. The lower section is also wonderful with a marvellous portico
formed by splendid columns with vaulted arcades in a stylish and refined composition simply outstanding.
Inside you can admire a magnificent fresco The Last
Judgement by Peter Cornelius which is the second largest in the world
after that one painted by Michelangelo Buonarroti in the famous Sistine
Chapel in Rome, great attraction in Vatican.
The square overlooked by the University is named after
the Scholl brothers’ members of a student movement born in 1942 and inspired by the
Professor Kurt Huber, a teacher
of philosophy and member of the Catholic Alliance.
The passive resistance put in place the matrix
non-violent and non-military which consisted of an active anti-Nazi propaganda
which spread to other German Universities especially in Berlin through a
massive sending of letters known as The Letters of the White Rose.
As expected the reaction of the regime was harsh and
hard, a 25 years old student of medicine named Hans old and Sofia, a 21 years old student of biology were soon discovered, tried, sentenced to death for high
treason and beheaded. On the pave which covers the square are reproduced
some written evidence of their courage and initiative while in the main lobby
visible is also a memorial and an interesting photographic exhibition.
Siegestor is that majestic monument representing in its kind a sort of triumphal entrance of the borough. It is a clear inspiration
taken from the famous Arch of Constantine in Rome and it marks the end
of Ludwigstrasse and the beginning of Leopoldstrasse.
That imposing monument was erected between 1843 and 1852 following a project by
Friedrich von Gärtner who was inspired by that famous Roman monumental
and imposing construction erected in the Italian capital in honour of an emblematic Emperor and its three arches reminiscent
of the architecture of the Feldherrnhalle. That monument was elevated to celebrate the Bavarian
army and its role played in the defeat of Napoleon Bonaparte, a
historic event representing a considerable triumph of the history of Bavaria against a powerful enemy.
That stunning gate divides two districts of Munich
such as Maxvorstadt at south and at north Schwabing and for all what it
historically represents it is certainly one of the most representative
landmarks not only of the district but of the entire city.
That impressive construction is storied with reliefs
representing scenes of battles and medallions bearing personifications of the provinces
of Bavaria such as Upper Bavaria depicting a farm in the Alps,
Upper and Middle Franconia with craft works and farming, Low Franconia
represented by vineyards, cereals and navigation and also the Upper
Palatinate with depicted the symbol of textile products.
The work was studied and executed to represent every corner of the
land transmitting the importance of every local territory with their main resources and
linked in a unique and unitary monument meaning broterhood, union and strenght.
That majestic masterpiece was commissioned
by King Ludwig I with that clear message and it was seriously damaged during the 2nd World War. A large part of the main central body
was largely destroyed during the bombings and it was later partially rebuilt trying to re-give it its original aspect. Some years later in the 50's there was an intense and laborious and today it shines all its splendour just like during its glorious past.
was largely destroyed during the bombings and it was later partially rebuilt trying to re-give it its original aspect. Some years later in the 50's there was an intense and laborious and today it shines all its splendour just like during its glorious past.
On the top of the arch you will notice the presence of
a statue of Bavaria on a chariot pulled by lions.On it was added
an inscription by Wilhelm Hausenstein which says "Dem geweiht
Sieg, vom Krieg zerstört, zum Frieden mahnend" which translated means
dedicated to the victory, destroyed by the war, a symbol of Peace.
Not far from that local icon you can easily reach the Academy
of Fine Arts, a famed Institute which had very distinguished professors and
students frequented by prominent people such as Franz von Stuck,
Giorgio De Chirico, Paul Klee and Vassilij Kandinsky among others.
At the civic number 36 of Leopoldstrasse is
situated the Walking Man an impressive sculpture representing a
giant 17,0 metres high and which adorns the facade of the modern Munich Re one of the largest insurers
in the world. That historical site of that company is housed in a beautiful
building dated the 20th century
located in Königinstrasse at the civic number 107.
For all the lovers of Baroque art Schloss Suresnes is certainly a must. It is
an enchanting castle located in the famous street Werneckstrasse and also called Werneckschlössl, it
is undoubedtly one of the most important constructions erected in that
architectural style which as the nearest Austria also influenced several
artists of Bavaria.
Situated at short distance of a corner leading to
Feilitzschstrasse, it was built between 1715 and 1718 by Johann Baptist
Gunetzrhainer taking as model the famed Château de Suresnes situated close to Paris. Erected to host the Secretary of the
Cabinet Wilhelm Von Franz who spent some months there during the exile of
the Prince Regent Maximilian II Emanuel of Bavaria from 1919 to
1921 it was also the residence of the famous painter Paul Klee
while currently is the seat of the Catholic Academy.
The streets around that superb palace correspond to
the oldest part of the neighbourhood also called Alt Schwabing in which
it is possible to discover about 750 small splendid houses and in addition some
elegant and stylish Art Nouveau villas so in the case you love fine architecture in that special area you will have the chance to spend all the time you desire enchanted by other different kinds of styles ranging from Baroque, Liberty to most contemporary types of constructions.
Worth a visit Stadtpfarrkirche, the
Church dedicated to St. Ursula because
that Religious Temple is the second Parish Church of Munich and it is
undoubtedly one of the finest examples
of Neo-Renaissance Churches established in Germany.
The construction started in the 19th century when Schwabing grew more
and more, concretely in 1887 in the times the district was elevated to the rank of city some years before to
be incorporated in the Municipality of Munich.
The former Parish Church of medieval origin was
located in the heart of the borough and it could no longer hold all the parishioners.
The draft of a new structure more spacious and dignified as that younger Sacred seat is located in the new quarter zone south-west of the oldest core of the district were entrusted to August Thiersch and despite it is not old it represents a
relevant historic symbol of the neighbourhood.
The new Church was dedicated to that Saint who was
already the Patroness giving her name to the old Sacred seat while the other
one was dedicated of St. Sylvester.
With the development of that new Sacred construction
Thiersch tried to give a appealing image to the quarter and he
built a Basilica with three naves in clear Renaissance style by copying
inside the Basilica of the Holy Spirit erected in the Tuscan Capital Florence
by the famous Florentine architect Filippo Brunelleschi. Next to that splendid red brick construction was also
erected a majestic tower which dominates the entire district.
Towards east lies Englischer Garten, the
beautiful English Garden which
extends from the neighbourhood reaching the outskirts of another urban territory. Its
range covers almost to the northern boundary of the city and south to Talkirche
in an area in which is situated Munich Zoo.
It is for its ample size one of the largest parks in
the world well known for its natural style stripped of a symmetrical and formal
English environmental setting but also linked for inspiration to the style of French
gardens for the arrangements of the plants and specific flowered sections.
That site was opened in 1789 by Benjamin
Thompson Count Rumford and although the first goal was its
creation the project was originally planned to develop a military space. Just
some years later was decided to dedicate all that gardened area as a public
park permitting the access to the entire community.
Currently it is packed by people every day enjoying
sport activities, cycling and there is also a frequent presence of musicians,
horseback riders, visitors enjoying a cool drink and a highlight is also the attractive Chinesischer
Turm the Chinese Tower, a construction elevated to give a touch of exotic
Oriental appeal to that attractive huge verdant corner of the district.
A curiosity about
Schwabing is that the entrepreneur Hermann Einstein, father of
the Nobel laureate, the scientist Albert Einstein illuminated for the first time with
electric light the district in which he lived with his family in
an elegant villa and that illumination was also protagonist in occasion of the edition
of the Oktoberfest celebrated in 1885.
In that cultural borough of Munich lived a long list of artists and it is a
must to mention many of them simply to know which kind of cultural mine hosted
that special place starting from several painter such
as Paul Klee, Vassilij Kandinsky, Alexej Javlenskj, Giorgio De Chirico, Franz
von Stuck, Ernst Ludwig Kirchner and Lovis Corinth.
In addition that district was also the
residence of many important writers such as Rainer Maria Rilke, Henrik Ibsen, Ludwig
Ganghofer, Michael Georg Conrad, Heinrich Mann, Thomas Mann and Oskar Panizza
and also home of revolutionaries such as as Vladimir Lenin, Nadezhda Krupskaya, Leon Trotsky,
Erich Mühsam, Ernst Toller, Eugen Levine, Julius Martow, Georg Strasser and Julian
Marchlewski.
The scientists who chose to live in Schwabing are part
of another endless directory including Werner Heisenberg, Jonathan Zenneck, Wilhelm
Wien and Arnold Sommerfeld but also actors and dancers as Alexander Sacharoff Alexander, Clara
Ziegler enjoyed to fix their residence in that captivating corner of the
Bavarian Capital.
Finally apart that superb number of prominent minds other people linked to other events such as Adolf
Hitler, Alfred Rosenberg and Ernst Röhm.
It is undoubtedly a big and remarkable group of notorious characters but all
that simply to mention which kind of place was Schwabing calling as a siren famed
people related to the most different arts and who left important and relevant
marks inspiring later new generations of artists.
Munich is a young city with a high quality of life and
it offers many chances for entertainment with a vibrant nightlife and a great
choice to have fun spending an evening with the chance to find a big variety of
places for every taste one of the iconic destination for a multitude of people is in Schwabing.
On the other hand although it is is not outrageous as
other cities in Germany as the stunning and coquetry Berlin or the eternally bustling Hamburg, so famous for their trendy clubs and always
more than ready with new proposals also the major centre of Bavaria offers all that with several
sites very trendy and loved by many people with that district as protagonist.
The Green Room Bar is one of them much frequented by
students, it offers excellent cocktails and beers, good music and it is a pleasant
place highlighted by a very lively atmosphere.
The disco Pacha is part of the best branch of the most
famous clubs with seat in Ibiza from which took its name and also the staff and its
environment is characterised by the presence of the best DJ of Munich who
bright the most trendy music and sounds just like that establishment located on
that Spanish island.
Skyline situated in Leopoldstrasse at the civic number
82 is another famous disco-club while the disco-bar Reitschule is a famous
meeting place for every kind of public and it has been for some years a famous
landmark of the district, a site which offers several chances to enjoy
electronic or underground music but other proposals with themes linked to
Brazilian nights or traditional Caribbean Rhythms.
Drinking and eating out in Schwabing is another great
opportunity for a visitor thanks to the presence of a big variety of cosy
restaurants and snack bars serving delicious food for that worth a mention L´Osteria, Koriander, Wirsthaus zur Brez’n, Caffè Florian, the latter
with the same name of the famous Venetian Cafe, Sarovar
and Passaparola among others.
Another special feature in addition is that
Munich is one of the safest cities in the world and there are not
several problems walking around the city anytime including at night, a quality
which makes different the Bavarian capital than other cities in the
world and you will see all that in the district.
But what makes so special Schwabing
and why many people choose or chosen to live in that area or why that
emblematic borough is the district most visited in Munich ?...It
seems a question of one million of dollars but the reasons could be many.
The answer could be incorporated in a very long list of deep topics and special aspects. The versatility of its trendy bars, the variety of its several
cosmopolitan restaurants, a good presence of chic boutiques and the incredible number
of different shops it offers obviously next to an incredible cultural life due
to its proximity to the University and the School of Fine Arts.
In addition to all that very relevant is undoubtedly
the prestige and name linked to its legendary past which is probably that alive essence continuing to be alive than ever and that incomparable air which will be
present forever as a magic aura representing something of eternal for
many people combined to its captivating charm anytime during a day unique and inimitable starting for the ample selection of places to go to enjoy an aromatic coffee in the morning, a great dinner at evening or a sparkling cocktail at night.
That neighbourhood is a reference of culture in many
of its marked details also for someone is a symbol of a veiled transgression,
no book or the most talented writers could describe Schwabing associated with
the spirit of innovation and madness that permitted to thinkers, musicians and
painters who were attracted by that unmistakable atmosphere breathed in that
place able to create something of magically suggestive and fantastically appealing and it is also all that which captures the
attention of every visitor still nowadays.
It was and is the traditional bohemian district of
Munich in which they argued and with many chats at the tables of
captivating taverns there was always an interesting varied range of subjects and themes as main protagonists and perpetual new ideas to transmit.
Probably all signals which never
ceased to exist continuing also in modern and contemporary times welcoming all those who want to continue to remember that in an environment highly attractive
and more than trendy simply sitting to enjoy a cool beer and treating to talk about a large
variety of topics linked to philosophy, art and new innovative proposals to launch…
Undoubedtly is also that outstanding Jugendstil art so
present and immediately visible in that cultural borough of Munich as clear
historic landmark which always gave and give new impulses, inputs and
inspirations also in recent times and continues in its kind to be something of
highly distinctive, immortal and admired more than ever.
That local stunning architecture, its charming houses
and lively streets are a stupendous frame of a fantastic picture which
witnessed an explosive atmosphere during many years in which everything seemed
possible and probably all that happens in current times too.
All that developed a long time ago never died and of
course it was transmitted in the best way to the new generations decades by decades,
year by year, day by day until today. Schawbing never lost its charm, prestige
and its unmistakable spirit which makes that area so different than other metropolitan
districts identifying itself as an indelible and
inimitable signature in a book which deserves to be read and in its kind a reality that nobody can change or delete.
For all that and more it is so special and if you
are planning a trip to that beautiful city called Munich Schwabing is
absolutely a must and worth a special visit which will delight you.
It is a place unique to enjoy metre by metre and that
unmatchable atmosphere reminding a vibrant history born many years ago
continuing to live in the present in the minds of a multitude of people
capturing the attention of every tourist of every age is simply translated with
a word”Schwabing" that cultural borough of Munich which is always as an
open doorway and gateway to welcome all people today and every time just
like in its glorious past.
Francesco Mari
Recommended Accommodations in the case you want to spend your stay in the area of Schwabing.
Mercure Hotel München Schwabing
Fleming´s Hotel Munich Schwabing
H´Hotello H´9
Hotel La Maison
Cosmopolitan Hotel
Useful links
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Thanks a lot to read and note.