Porlezza is a destination in Italy absolutely wonderful,a place of unique deep inspirations between lakes and mountains with an outstanding beauty,there are no words to describe the fascinating charm of places like that town.
It is is no coincidence that distinguished and prominent artists such as Goethe, Wagner, Dumas and Fogazzaro during their stays on Lake Como and directed towards Switzerland crossing in transit that magic town remained surprised by the extraordinary charm and beauty of that centre on the shore of Lake Ceresio,the Italian side of the magnificent Lake Lugano.That resort is immediately and at first sight a stupendous marvel and those artists stopped there to admire those magnificent waters and an unforgettable waterfront surrounded by enchanting mountains.
Porlezza is like an oasis between two lakes,bathed by Lake Lugano or Ceresio and pretty close to Lake Como,situated.27,0 kilometres from the city of Como,just 16,0 kilometres from Lugano,and 62,0 km from Milan,an enchanting corridor between two magnificent lounges,with its about 4,500 inhabitants that town is like a picture of Canaletto famous to paint Venice landscapes but in that case a town embraced by picturesque mountains and on the shores of a marvellous waters basin.
The mild climate which delights that wonderful resort and its relaxing and wonderful atmosphere permit to choose that destination all year as brilliant destination.Its geographical position is furthermore like a passpartout to open several fantastic doors, Lake Como crossing Argegno on a curve of the lake it is possible to cross the wild and picturesque Valle D´Intelvi a mountainous valley rich of spectacular landscapes,marvellous forests and peaks and obviously to enjoy the several attractions on Lake Lugano,on both its shores the Swiss and the Italian.
Inhabited since prehistoric times,the history of Porlezza started in Pre- Roman period when the Gauni probably a Celtic-Ligurian population developed a small settlement,living mainly of agricultural products,fishing and small trades crossing the lake on the other coast.
All that before the colonisation of the Roman Empire which created there a small port,an harbour,the name Porlezza probably derives from the Latin name (the language of the Romans) Portus Laetitiae,which means happy port the fusion of those two words,some abbreviations,local pronunciations and influences not all people could not speak a fluent Latin generated the current name.
As in many other places,also there, there are several versions and debates about the current name as Port Lexa or Portlexe,some people declared is something connected to that ancient Celt-Ligurian population and not to the Romans and it means Ancient Port,but not from the Gauni the first inhabitants who called that place Coste Gauni (the coasts of the Gauni),the name translated in Latin and named by Romans which could be Happy Port could be derived by Lartitae who was the Goodness of happiness and gaiety during the polytheist Roman and Greek civilisations.
The history of the town after the definitive fall of the Roman Empire continued with several invasions,attacks disputes and changes of rulers such as Saxons,Lombard,Franks,Swabians,it was also a stronghold of noble families in medieval times as the Counts of Lecco the Attonidi,descendants of the Carolingian dynasty and also linked to the Archbishopric of Milan before the continuous diatribes and wars between Milan and Como with a third contender the Swiss after the fall of the Visconti in the Canton of Ticino.
The centre of the town centuries ago was surrounded by walls,it was a territory to defend for all the rulers installed in that marvellous place for its strategical position,it was an obliged passage to link the city of Como to Lugano and automatically the two lakes.In the following centuries it was occupied by French and Spaniards for a brief period before to be under Austrian influence before the reunification of Italy in 1860.
After those events Porlezza started long time ago to be one of the favourite places of Como and Milan Aristocracies,then it was mainly discovered by Swiss and German tourism,who found one of the favourite place to spend holidays,short breaks and enjoying the several activities,facilities and options that resort offers as water sports.
It also became some years later one of the favourite Dutch tourism destinations and the name Porlezza started to be promoted and appreciated all around Holland for many reasons,such as mild climate, climate,opportunities to enjoy those water sports,an excellent selection of comfortable accommodations,a wide variety of excursions on the Lake Lugano,Lake Como and crossing picturesque valleys,a mecca for tourists, photographers cycling and mountain bike lovers with an incredible number of spectacular routes and tracks.
I suggested a detailed itinerary to a Dutch friend of mine some years ago with special stops and visit and after that,he visited Porlezza every year.The itinerary starting from Porlezza crossing the beautiful Valle D´Intelvi a magnificent picturesque and wild valley with majestic peaks and unforgettable forests in a fairytale scenery until Argegno a lovely resort on Lake Como from there following then the National Road flanking the Lake stopping in Tremezzo at Villa Carlotta visiting the magnificent gardens and ,immediately after the splendid Menaggio,taking the ferry to Bellagio,the pearl of Lake Como.
Coming back to Menaggio by boat taking the road direction Porlezza again,that itinerary became his favourite with some variants,an excursion to repeat many times,he told me it was one of the most inspirational excursions in the world,something unique,admiring the waters of Lake Como and Lake Lugano crossing forests,hills,mountains and finishing with that beautiful opening promenade on the lake in the town as a gala or triumphant and enjoyable arrival admiring a multitude of unforgettable places.
The beauty of that itinerary which can be changed with several details is the view of two magnificent lakes but different one from the other,the change of altitudes,you move from the shores of lakes with a Mediterranean vegetation to places where all is different almost an Alpine environment,every corner id to photograph a planet all to explore metre by metre.
Following the famous Strada Statale Regina,which correspond to that ancient road the Romans developed many centuries ago and improved by the Lombard later leading the city of Como with many fantastic coastal resorts on the lake you can cross Menaggio and from there taking the road destination Switzerland,driving across another wonderful valley,in a typical Pre-Alpine scenery fantastic is the view of the lake in the middle of that climb leading to Porlezza in the middle you have total view of the Western arm of Lake Como.
The town despite has not an elevated number of inhabitants has a vast territory with four neighbourhoods such as Tavordo,Agria ,Cima and Begna.Its medieval centre and the beautiful Lungolago Matteotti,
the magnificent lake promenade with an unforgettable waterfront,the picturesque harbour dominated by mountains from one side and facing others from another can be a charming mega poster or a giant wallpaper to cover the walls at home.
the magnificent lake promenade with an unforgettable waterfront,the picturesque harbour dominated by mountains from one side and facing others from another can be a charming mega poster or a giant wallpaper to cover the walls at home.
Porlezza despite the valley which separates the two lakes (Como and Lugano) has always had strong and deep cultural historical link and connection to Menaggio and Lake Como.Thanks to that relationship it was an important cross point of many prominent artists since medieval times.
The Val D´Intelvi valley has produced excellent painters as Giulio Quaglio from Laino,a town situated in that,a talented painter who worked in Bergamo,Udine,Trieste,Switzerland and Austria and also in Porlezza painting the Chiesa di San Vittore il Moro the Church of St Victor the Moorish a beautiful Renaissance Church erected in the early 17th century place where you can start the visit.
The facade presents four majestic columns with capitals and placed on big pedestals and a huge pediment on the top,that Church has three nave with a big rectangular portal in centre and inside there are some relevant
with some relevant frescoes by Pozzi and Quaglio depicting scenes of the life of the Saint Martyr.
The Val D´Intelvi valley has produced excellent painters as Giulio Quaglio from Laino,a town situated in that,a talented painter who worked in Bergamo,Udine,Trieste,Switzerland and Austria and also in Porlezza painting the Chiesa di San Vittore il Moro the Church of St Victor the Moorish a beautiful Renaissance Church erected in the early 17th century place where you can start the visit.
The facade presents four majestic columns with capitals and placed on big pedestals and a huge pediment on the top,that Church has three nave with a big rectangular portal in centre and inside there are some relevant
with some relevant frescoes by Pozzi and Quaglio depicting scenes of the life of the Saint Martyr.
That religious building was dedicated to the Saint Victor,a former Roman soldier born in Maghreb in the current Mauritania,from there the nickname Il Moro,the Moorish.That soldier embraced the Christian faith and he was killed as Martyr during the persecutions led by the Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius Valerius Maximianus Herculius simply know as Maximianus famous for his friendship with another Emperor Gaius Aurelius Valerius Diocletianus.
The Church apart the relevant value of those frescoes presents a series of relevant stuccoes of Lombard school and a splendid golden Baroque altarpiece very common in some Lombard provinces as Bergamo,Como and Milan.Beautiful are also some statues in the main nave and some decorations on the altar walls.Notable are the decorated arcades and the painted vaults,the chromatic composition and the colours are in perfect harmony with the light columns and arches.Very relevant is also the architectonic shape of the imposing tower in a sandstone colour with a meridian on a facade,a very stylish belfry topped by a conical gray roof with Christian Cross.
The Church apart the relevant value of those frescoes presents a series of relevant stuccoes of Lombard school and a splendid golden Baroque altarpiece very common in some Lombard provinces as Bergamo,Como and Milan.Beautiful are also some statues in the main nave and some decorations on the altar walls.Notable are the decorated arcades and the painted vaults,the chromatic composition and the colours are in perfect harmony with the light columns and arches.Very relevant is also the architectonic shape of the imposing tower in a sandstone colour with a meridian on a facade,a very stylish belfry topped by a conical gray roof with Christian Cross.
The Romanesque Church Oratorio di San Maurizio,dedicated to St,Maurice is another emblematic historic local patrimony.Situated in a picturesque place at the foot of the Monte Galbiga surrounded by a charming forest,it is a great example of Medieval Romanesque art dating back 12th century,a work by Maestri Comacini,(the Masters Comacini) architects,painters,sculptors but in particular known in the early medieval era as excellent stonemasons.
Those talented Masters started originally very active in the area of Como and the Swiss Canton Ticino,they worked in Porlezza before to be called in Rome and then in Germany,Denmark and Sweden.The Oratorio presents the typical details decorations of this school.That Church has a peculiar history,in the 17th century the Church was buried by a landslide of nearby mountains, and only the tower was visible.In 1966 after long and meticulous works to save the rest of the building,the Church was totally restored, reconsecrated and opened once again.
The beauty of that Religious construction are the simple but perfect medieval lines of its facade with a double roof,the bigger covering the central body with an access by a central portal and the second adjacent to the right side,absolutely magnificent id the stoned bell tower which is 18,0 metres high which reflects with a wonderful belfry,arched windows and loopholes the pure Italian Romanesque style including in the use of the materials.
In the immediate vicinity is situated The Chiesa di Santa Marta,a Church dedicated to St.Martha is a religious building dating back the 17th century,developed on a rectangular plan,,the facade is very sober with a rectangular doorway and a wide pediment in the upper section over an ample window placed under a wide arch and with two false columns on both sides.
In its interior you can admire the main altar was developed in the 18th century and the main highlights is a statue depicting St.Martha and the Virgin Mary while the nave and the presbytery have splendid frescoes and painting of Lombard School dating back the 17th century by Montalto and Ercole Procaccini two painters very active in the area.
Those talented Masters started originally very active in the area of Como and the Swiss Canton Ticino,they worked in Porlezza before to be called in Rome and then in Germany,Denmark and Sweden.The Oratorio presents the typical details decorations of this school.That Church has a peculiar history,in the 17th century the Church was buried by a landslide of nearby mountains, and only the tower was visible.In 1966 after long and meticulous works to save the rest of the building,the Church was totally restored, reconsecrated and opened once again.
The beauty of that Religious construction are the simple but perfect medieval lines of its facade with a double roof,the bigger covering the central body with an access by a central portal and the second adjacent to the right side,absolutely magnificent id the stoned bell tower which is 18,0 metres high which reflects with a wonderful belfry,arched windows and loopholes the pure Italian Romanesque style including in the use of the materials.
In the immediate vicinity is situated The Chiesa di Santa Marta,a Church dedicated to St.Martha is a religious building dating back the 17th century,developed on a rectangular plan,,the facade is very sober with a rectangular doorway and a wide pediment in the upper section over an ample window placed under a wide arch and with two false columns on both sides.
In its interior you can admire the main altar was developed in the 18th century and the main highlights is a statue depicting St.Martha and the Virgin Mary while the nave and the presbytery have splendid frescoes and painting of Lombard School dating back the 17th century by Montalto and Ercole Procaccini two painters very active in the area.
Another church worth a visit situated is the Chiesa della Beata Vergine Maria dei Miracoli,dedicated to St.Mary Virgin of the Miracles,a beautiful example in Lombard Renaissance style dated 17th century. erected in the year 1686 it present a sober facade but with a very outlined design and a rectangular portal.,in its interior you can admire a beautiful Baroque altarpiece and some frescoes of Lombard school.
Lungolago Matteotti is another great attraction of the resort absolutely spectacular.It is a wide promenade bordering the lake,beautiful to walk all the hours,admiring the dawn with the reflects of the first sun on the lake with the verdant mountains around,in sunny days,at evening to enjoy the mild,cool breeze and at night in a peaceful walk looking at all the illuminated coast.The view is simply magnificent,also because that bay is so special,wide spaces and fantastic opening on the arm of Lake Ceresio.
Very picturesque is the neighbourhood of Cima,which was originally an independent municipality before the reforms of the the Italian government in the year 1928 it was incorporated as district of the town.It is
a small but enchanting Medieval agglomeration of houses with narrow streets and the rests of the medieval fortifications with splendid views give that district of Porlezza a very particular charm.
In that place you can admire the small but charming Chiesa di San Giorgio a religious stoned building dedicated to St.George, developed on a rectangular base between the 17th and 18th century,on its facade you can see a wooden portal under the gable roof which is surmounted by a rectangular element with two large high windows and containing a bell.
Very close,between Porlezza and Valsolda in Cressogno you can visit the Santuario di Nostra Signora di Caravita a magnificent sanctuary dedicated to the Virgin Mary dating back 17th century,not far from the neighbourhood of Cima.Splendid it is is position between olive groves and cypresses,that religious building was mentioned by the famous writer Fogazzaro in its famous work Piccolo Mondo Antico for its beauty and charm in an environment so poetic and picturesque.
Along the provincial road SP14 which crosses the core of the town,also called in that coastal strength Via Osteno leading to thee town with the same name which run towards south,you can have fantastic views of the lake,after less than one kilometre leaving the centre you can reach a splendid rounded headland which forms a picturesque bay with another promontory immediately after the port and with an unforgettable view coast to coast of the lake.
Another place very picturesque is also along that road is the tip of Rescia another panoramic point approximately 1,0 kilometre before to reach Osteno,in that place you can a wide view of the lake and a unique view towards the harbour of Porlezza absolutely outstanding and all to remember.
Other places place I strongly suggest to visit in that place (Rescia) the Grotta di Rescia (Grottoes of Rescia) in the municipality of Claino con Osteno.It is a spectacular formation of porous rocks which with the work of the waters containing calcium and bicarbonate which generated spectacular caves and stalagmites,in that place do not miss the spectacular Santa Giluia waterfalls forming the gorge called Orrido of Osteno simply wonderful.
The town is very popular and famous for the Feast of St.Rocco celebrated in summer on 16th August,in a splendid scenery on the lake with spectacular fireworks and people coming from Switzerland,Como,Varese and Milan to enjoy that special event.
a small but enchanting Medieval agglomeration of houses with narrow streets and the rests of the medieval fortifications with splendid views give that district of Porlezza a very particular charm.
In that place you can admire the small but charming Chiesa di San Giorgio a religious stoned building dedicated to St.George, developed on a rectangular base between the 17th and 18th century,on its facade you can see a wooden portal under the gable roof which is surmounted by a rectangular element with two large high windows and containing a bell.
Very close,between Porlezza and Valsolda in Cressogno you can visit the Santuario di Nostra Signora di Caravita a magnificent sanctuary dedicated to the Virgin Mary dating back 17th century,not far from the neighbourhood of Cima.Splendid it is is position between olive groves and cypresses,that religious building was mentioned by the famous writer Fogazzaro in its famous work Piccolo Mondo Antico for its beauty and charm in an environment so poetic and picturesque.
Along the provincial road SP14 which crosses the core of the town,also called in that coastal strength Via Osteno leading to thee town with the same name which run towards south,you can have fantastic views of the lake,after less than one kilometre leaving the centre you can reach a splendid rounded headland which forms a picturesque bay with another promontory immediately after the port and with an unforgettable view coast to coast of the lake.
Another place very picturesque is also along that road is the tip of Rescia another panoramic point approximately 1,0 kilometre before to reach Osteno,in that place you can a wide view of the lake and a unique view towards the harbour of Porlezza absolutely outstanding and all to remember.
Other places place I strongly suggest to visit in that place (Rescia) the Grotta di Rescia (Grottoes of Rescia) in the municipality of Claino con Osteno.It is a spectacular formation of porous rocks which with the work of the waters containing calcium and bicarbonate which generated spectacular caves and stalagmites,in that place do not miss the spectacular Santa Giluia waterfalls forming the gorge called Orrido of Osteno simply wonderful.
Another gorge you can not miss in direction Menaggio along the road leading to the Val D´ Intelvi is the so called Orrido di Corrido,a spectacular drop of the waters of the torrent Cuccio
between a small space of two rocks in a mountain and another relevant attraction is the Lago del Piano,a small lake in the Val Menaggio,spectacular for the position behind the town of Menaggio.(I wrote a post about that jewel on Lake Como in the case you are interested).
Porlezza offers the visitor many outdoor activities,the lake permits to
practise many water sports,sailing,wind surf, diving,rowing,also cycling is
beautiful because the territory is a series of fantastic changes of slopes a great
text for who loves sports on two wheels for the change of rhythms and also very challenging climbs.
Other excursions are obviously are discovering all the coast of Lake Como from one side or going along the Lake Lugano and towards the nearest Valsolda there are some views on the lake among the most beautiful of the Lake Ceresio.
Other excursions are obviously are discovering all the coast of Lake Como from one side or going along the Lake Lugano and towards the nearest Valsolda there are some views on the lake among the most beautiful of the Lake Ceresio.
The town is very popular and famous for the Feast of St.Rocco celebrated in summer on 16th August,in a splendid scenery on the lake with spectacular fireworks and people coming from Switzerland,Como,Varese and Milan to enjoy that special event.
The local cuisine with its typical trattorie and the nearest Swiss Canton Ticino with the traditional Crotti typical taverns,restaurants of the Swiss Italian speaking Canton delicious offer different specialities as Polenta cooked in may styles,a traditional plate having the polenta as base is the typical Tucch prepared adding red wine,cloves, ,butter,olive oil,salt,butter,cinnamon and lemon skin and as main component cheese.
Fish is another highlight,Alborelle and Pesce Persico in particular,fried or baked,another delicious fish is the Lavarello,grilled with olive oil,lemon,butter and herbs,but also the Missoltini are an other kind of fish,agoni,dried shad fish,in the prepared they could be marinated and then fried or grilled adding olive oil,vinegar and salt and they can be eaten with the polenta.Very traditional is the so called Pesce on Carpione it is a traditional preparation it can be Lavarello but also the shad fish,the fish is before fried and then marinated with laurel,salt and vinegar,adding garlic,pepper,capers,anchovies,breadcrumbs and egg yolk.
Excellent are also the Risotto including with Pesce Persico,the Risotto is also prepared in different styles,with mushrooms,(the County of Como is very rich),with cheeses and also with the Luganega a traditional sausage,or also it can accompanies the Spezzatino a beef stew prepared with olive oil,pepper, onion,tomato,carrots,salt,celery,that plate can also accompanies the polenta.
There is an excellent production of delicious cheeses some of the most relevant are the Formaggelle,soft cheese which can be combined in snacks,appetisers,on toasted bread or adding to polenta,the Caprino is a tastefully goat cheese very common in the Val D´Intelvi,very versatile and flavoured and the famous Gorgonzola and Taleggio are two others produced in the area.The cheese is also used to cook Gnocchi and in the valleys of the county there is also an excellent production of very healthy butter.
The forests of the county of Como are also rich of chestnuts which are used in some cakes,among the most relevant local cakes there are the Masigott,prepared with flour,eggs,raisins,pine nuts,sugar,butter and orange or the famous Miascia a very special cake which contains sugar,butter, flour, pinenuts, raisins, chocolate, pears,amaretti biscuits,lemon and bread.
The area in particular in the area of Domaso also offers fine wines as the Domasino,the Verdesa and Sorsasso some Merlot and Sauvignon grapes of very good quality are also cultivated in some vineyards,red and white wines,classy and smooth,very palatable and appreciated.
Fish is another highlight,Alborelle and Pesce Persico in particular,fried or baked,another delicious fish is the Lavarello,grilled with olive oil,lemon,butter and herbs,but also the Missoltini are an other kind of fish,agoni,dried shad fish,in the prepared they could be marinated and then fried or grilled adding olive oil,vinegar and salt and they can be eaten with the polenta.Very traditional is the so called Pesce on Carpione it is a traditional preparation it can be Lavarello but also the shad fish,the fish is before fried and then marinated with laurel,salt and vinegar,adding garlic,pepper,capers,anchovies,breadcrumbs and egg yolk.
Excellent are also the Risotto including with Pesce Persico,the Risotto is also prepared in different styles,with mushrooms,(the County of Como is very rich),with cheeses and also with the Luganega a traditional sausage,or also it can accompanies the Spezzatino a beef stew prepared with olive oil,pepper, onion,tomato,carrots,salt,celery,that plate can also accompanies the polenta.
There is an excellent production of delicious cheeses some of the most relevant are the Formaggelle,soft cheese which can be combined in snacks,appetisers,on toasted bread or adding to polenta,the Caprino is a tastefully goat cheese very common in the Val D´Intelvi,very versatile and flavoured and the famous Gorgonzola and Taleggio are two others produced in the area.The cheese is also used to cook Gnocchi and in the valleys of the county there is also an excellent production of very healthy butter.
The forests of the county of Como are also rich of chestnuts which are used in some cakes,among the most relevant local cakes there are the Masigott,prepared with flour,eggs,raisins,pine nuts,sugar,butter and orange or the famous Miascia a very special cake which contains sugar,butter, flour, pinenuts, raisins, chocolate, pears,amaretti biscuits,lemon and bread.
The area in particular in the area of Domaso also offers fine wines as the Domasino,the Verdesa and Sorsasso some Merlot and Sauvignon grapes of very good quality are also cultivated in some vineyards,red and white wines,classy and smooth,very palatable and appreciated.
The nearest airport is the Lugano Agno Airport situated at 22,0 kilometres from the resort in approximately 30 minutes driving from there via Gandria along the Provincial Road SP 340 you can b e at destination.The other option in Milan Malpensa Airport situated at 97,0 kilometres of distance,from that airport,via the A9 Motorway Como-Chiasso you can reach connecting to the other E35 via Lugano and continuing later on the provincial road SP 340 Porlezza in approximately one hour and 10 minutes driving.
If you are planning to visit Lake Lugano or Lake Como,Porlezza is a must,a sublime place you can not miss to visit,Porlezza is a fantastic corner of paradise transmitting very deep inspirations between magnificent lakes and beautiful mountains try to believe and you will never forget that divine place.
Francesco
Recommended Accommodations in Porlezza
Hotel Antico Crotto
Hotel Europa Porlezza
Apartments in Porlezza
Recommended Restaurants in Porlezza
Ristorante La Taverna
Trattoria della Vigna
Ristorante La Masseria
Il Crotto del Lago
Ristorante Il Ritrovo
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