Borgund Stavkyrkje | A 12th Century Norwegian Architectural Wooden Masterpiece.


Borgund is a small Norwegian village but its name is extremely famed worldwide to be the emblematic site of an iconic Stavkyrkje, a 12th century Norwegian architectural wooden masterpiece among the most photographed attractions existing in the entire Scandinavia, a stave church enchanting every visitor at first sight, something of simply unique elevated since a long time ago as a superb, absolute landmark of the land of the fjords.

Situated approximately at 285,0 kilometres northwest of the capital of the country Oslo and at 215,0 kilometres northeast of the second city of Norway Bergen in the wonderful county of Sogn og Fjordane, a vast, rural area which includes in its territory the Jostedalsbreen, the largest glacier in continental Europe.

Borgund, currently part of the municipality of Laerdal lies along the famous Filefjell Kongevegen, the notorious  Kings Road, named after King Sverre of Norway who in the 12th century traveled that route with his army, corresponding to the present E16 highway linking the  easternmost point of the major centre of the Nation to the striking territory of the southwestern lands of the Kingdom.

That small centre of approximately 500 inhabitants boasts a magnificent, scenic geographic position on the shore of the Laerdalselvi river in the shade of the fascinating, towering Høgeloft, the highest peak in the Filefjell mountain range with its 1920,0 of altitude, southeast of of the impressive and wonderful Sognefjorden, that marvel well known to be another emblematic Norwegian attraction very famous all around the globe.

That striking sea arm is protagonist as main spot of the National Tourism Board in several Tourism Fairs, International events often immortalised in covers, posters, wallpapers as one of the most stunning natural wonders of the world.

In a magnificent and suggestive corner of Northern Europe greatly highlighted by an uncontaminated wild nature crossed by those incomparable, astonishing waterways forming an unforgettable scenery that small site is encircled by a myriad of scenic, wild streams, small enchanting lakes, beautiful forests which all together represent a more than idyllic frame around a sensational picture of a dreamland.
The fairytale image of Borgund is something of fabulous transporting the sensations of every tourist in a sort of magic trip to a Paradise for all what there is around that picturesque Nordic hamlet and in a while you will easily understand why Norway is so unique in its kind also in those tiny realities.

The origin of the former settlement is dated to the Bronze Age according to historic documentations confirmed by archaeological  excavations with the discover of tools, utensils and object closely related to that era.  

The current village has always been historically and culturally linked to the the town of Laerdal sharing with that centre many of its historic stages.

 It was since medieval times a very peaceful place mainly populated by farmers, the most important resource was agriculture with an extensive number of farms established all around its boundaries as those of Nedrehegg and Sjurhaugen with in its  immediate proximity scattered granaries also towards the village of Laerdals
øyri at southeast in a large rural environment surrounding that very small agglomeration.


The name Borgund derives from the old Norse word Borgyndr, a denomination  probably linked to an old fort or a fortified structure established in the Middle Ages in the local area clearly identified by the suffix Borg meaning castle or fortress.

The history as independent Municipality started in the 19th century, exactly in 1864 when the current centre reached its autonomy but returning with the nearest bigger sister Laerdal one century later in 1964.

The tourism Industry since some decades ago replaced agriculture in the first position of the economical ranking despite that activity continues to be practised by many locals.

The protagonist of that change was due to the presence of that outstanding masterpiece consisting in that marvellous wooden Church which increased year by year relevant incoming flows when Borgund Stavkyrkje was inserted in all the tours developed by the most important International Tour Operators having Scandinavia and especially the land of the fjords as one of their major destinations.

That Sacred timber construction since its elevation was immediately regarded as an architectural diamond to exhibit in all its splendour becoming one of the main highlights of the Scandinavian Peninsula and thanks to that Borgund is currently one of the most visited sites of that Nordic Kingdom.

That Church  in the Indre Sogn deanery part of the Diocese of Bjørgvin is official  member of the Viking Heritage, Historic Patrimony of the country and it is run since 1877 by Fortidsminneforeningen, the Society for Preservation of Ancient Norwegian Monuments founded in 1844 with its headquarters in Dronningens gate 11 in Oslo.

It is no longer used for Religious worships because it was transformed in a museum and apart all those honours it has another award, that to be named as the best conserved among the 28 traditional stave churches elevated on Norwegian soil all time.

Norway is a country that since a long time ago is extremely sensitive to preserve next to its extraordinary natural environment also its historic treasures including with very attentive plans of restorations, concrete operations of refurbishment of a simple small section of a wall in the most distinctive sites all around the country and what you will see in Borgund is a clear example confirming all that.

An aspect which worth a special mention is the date of construction of that superb artistic gem consisting in the 12th century considering that other beautiful examples of Stavkyrkjen developed later are not so complete or rich of elements in their layouts and including with less aesthetic appeal all that increases much more its immense value.

That building was certainly an architectural example for other younger Churches built later which took that fabulous structure as a mother or something to imitate for its perfect lines, fantastic development of its layout in height, width, volume, projections with extremely marked outlines, fine material used for its development all that next to a creative combination of all its elements, including in the smallest decorative details.

That charming building is among the most photographed national tourist spots for its marvellous shape boasting all the best features of the finest Norwegian medieval architecture canons using timber for the construction of Sacred temples.

With ts incredible scenic profile bewitching anyone in a while for its outstanding, inimitable layout, that shining jewel of architecture with its impressive, towering image encircled by a fabulous natural setting place was established in a place as mother nature desired an eternal marriage between that artistic marvel and the wonderful landscapes of that incomparable land.

Situated in the middle of a scenic plain dominated by picturesque hills, the splendid local environment also plays an important role adding a wonderful aesthetic, special accent to that extraordinary Church elevated in a point appearing as something perfectly chosen by someone to establish there that marvel.


It is not a case that Borgund Stavkyrkje is often the image of covers of Brochures and important Travel Guides representing one of the emblematic symbols of the Nation, you can find its image including in post cards in the major Norwegian centres at many kilometres of distance, always exhibited as a regarded icon in the most important events, exhibitions, appointments where that Scandinavian Nation manages its campaigns of tourist promotion. 

Its fame reached a big popularity all around the globe in 1898 was published a guidebook in English language with detailed information of that stave church, you will find a replica of that stunning building in U.S.A in Rapid City in the State of Dakota and furthermore protagonist in The Age of the Kings, that popular video game also known as Age of Empires developed by Ensemble Studios published by Microsoft.

Very interesting is the history of its development, the date of construction is referred to the late 12th century, according to historic records, it was exactly ended in in 1181 with some modifications until in 1250 but the architect who projected that marvel is unknown.

Further researches with meticulous studies led by eminent historians confirmed that the construction took place in that period removing every doubt about suppositions, opinions or possible debates.

It is certain that the Church was erected on a previous building according to archaeological excavations started at the end of the 60's and active until 1986, in those two and more decades were found some wooden artifacts which were probably part of a former agglomeration of timber houses with included a previous Religious construction established in that place.

The first documentations about its presence in official recorded maps edited by the Norwegian Kingdom confirmed the existence of Borgund Stavkjrkje in the main routes of Realm in the medieval era, concretely in 1342 when it was already reported and indicated as an important cross point between Oslo and Bergen in the interior of the country.  

 Simply spectacular at first sight, that marvellous architectural wonder developed on a Basilica plan it is is classified in the category Sogn  Stavkjrkjen, consisting in those kinds of wooden Churches boasting three naves.

The magnificent main body was elevated on a stone foundation with superb walls formed by vertical staves  is surmounted by one of its main masterpieces represented by a series of five wooden gable roofs placed on different levels and If you consider furthermore a smaller one inserted in the upper section topped by a pinnacle, the roofs are in total six.

Its construction is something absolutely unique taking in consideration the many difficulties to assemble all that in a superb symmetry with a total absence of peculiar or bizarre compositions and about that you will have the confirmation simply admiring the wonderful executions all around the section corresponding to the apse, the reduced aisles, the chancel all that next to a refined ambulatory forming a splendid porch around the building.

 The main nave was arranged beneath two roofs of the same size established to cover the central core of the structure while further two were placed on the flanks, you will notice in the wonderful exterior decoration the presence of heads of dragons, legendary creatures, symbols of different cultures curiously used by the Vikings to embellish their traditional boats called Drakkar.

Those iconic ships used by that Nordic population in the navigation were well known to be protagonists of several conquests as that linked to Ireland or sailing from the North Sea to the Atlantic crossing the Strait of Gibraltar, entering in the Mediterranean and including they reached the coasts of Turkey and for that also considered emblems of navigation.


The dragon was in that pagan and polytheist culture a symbol of power, courage, sign of invincibility, frequently depicted as a decorative element highlighting the exterior of houses,  entrance of camps, engraved on stones, often represented in wooden handcraft works but apart that some of them placed in the upper section highlighting the scenic aesthetic appearance were established there as a system of drainage.

The three portals are decorated with stunning elements depicting flora next to other dragons while in the capitals appear the figures of some Lions also considered symbols of strength, domination and victory.

On the eastern side of that wooden masterpiece you can see on the walls some Runic inscriptions using Runic alphabet used by the first Northern German tribes who lived in Scandinavia.

Those representations born in the 2nd century had in the Elder Futhark a pioneer of a writing system in vogue with inscriptions on amulets, jewelry, stones, weapons, tools, iron boxes pretty common until the 8th century when they were replaced by the Latin alphabet.

One of them confirms the Christian faith embraced by the population visible on the west portal and it says "Ave Maria" a clear message of a revered salute in Latin language to the Virgin Mary mother of Jesus Christ while another on a wall one says " Thor wrote in these runes in the evening of a mass celebrated by St.Olaf in Borgund".

In that second case there is a peculiar combination between sacred and profane with protagonists that Saint who was Olaf II Haraldsson, King of Norway from 1015 to 1028 and a divinity Thor, son of the God Odin King of the Norse Gods in mythology according to the Eddic Poems.

That link was probably depicted as a signal of protection of the Monarch by that supreme being who was also known apart to be associated to strength, storms, thunder, lightining, fertility also to be  the protector of mankind.

Despite an existing monotheist faith it was perhaps a phrase generated by a tie still rooted in the Viking paganism. In that period the Christianity spreading in Norway was pretty young with some renmants still alive related to the Jarls of Lade, those Earls part of a dynasty who ruled between the 9th and 11th centuries.

They were members of a coalition which included Denmark and Sweden which after the victorious battle of Svolder which took place between 999 and 1000 in the Baltic Sea determining the defeat of the converted King Olav Trygvasson of Norway with the partition of the country, a backlash against Christianity and a consequent relapse into a revival of the paganism.    

The highlights of the interior are certainly its central nave surrounded by a sort of wooden gallery, a spectacular ceiling developed with scissor beams next to a clever composition of supports forming a X shape crossing each other linked to a truss to avoid the collapse of the roof.

A medieval element  very well conserved is a stone altarpiece placed in the apse, above it it you can admire a painting with the scene of the Crucifixion of Jesus Christ flanked by the figures of  the Virgin Mary and St.John Baptist, fine works dated the 17th century and  a relevant baptismal font.

Other superb works are a splendid pulpit dated the 16th century and in the tympanum you can see a further painting depicting a dove on a blue and black background while on another dark one you can see some golden inscriptions.


That Religious Temple erected in Borgund as further historic information is also well known because it boasts a relevant Crucifix dating back the Middle Ages withdrawn during the process of the Protestant reform in Norway.

In that case we are talking about the 16th century, when in 1537 arose Den norske kyrkja, the Lutheran Norwegian Church founded in that year after the split with the Catholic with seat in the Vatican State.

Very interesting during the visit in its interior to observe and admire the structural layout of the ceiling with its different arrangements depending from the point you move and stop.

In the area corresponding to the the apse in proximity of the altar you can notice how it has a conical shape covering the nave subdivided in three sections.

From inside you can also understand better how was possible the execution of the roofs on several levels including the central tower flanked by the heads of dragons, a very good point of reference to know more those works is placing yourself just some metres from the altar beneath an arcade on the right side and you will notice many interesting things regarding the establishment of the exterior elements.

The floor was restored in the 70's and in that period there was an addition of a surface covering the original to preserve its value during the several visits.

Borgund Stavkjrkje dedicated to St. Andrew  was until 1877 the Parish Church of the village replaced by a new one built next to it later. Since that event that magnificent old timber building started to be used as an exhibition opened to the tourist visits.


Outside you can find the cemetery of the village and in the nearest Visitor Centre you can collect all the information you need about the history of that fantastic monumental patrimony of Norway, post cards and different kinds of souvenirs.

Borgund is a  great start point for several excursion, the attractive Laerdal is very close, only 10,0 kilometres away, it is a town of almost 2,200 inhabitants in a spectacular wild valley to immortalise in thousands of pictures in the southeastern territory of Sogn of Fjordane County on the southern side of the extraordinary Sognefjorden.

Its scenic core is characterised by its charming lines of traditional wooden coloured houses  and it is historically a place very famous in Norway for fishing thanks the rich presence of salmon, sea trout in the river Laerdalselvi highlighted by its fascinating delta, a destination very loved by King Harald V of Norway.

 
A further local attraction is Laerdalstunnel, a long tunnel developed between 1995 and 2000, it is 24,5 kilometres long considered a masterpiece of civil works made in the country  built through Aurlandsfjell mountains dividing Laerdal from Aurland.

Once there continuing  a magnificent excursion you can also have the chance to admire a fantastic panoramic view point on the splendid town of Kaupanger with the magnificent Sognefjord as great protagonist and do not miss to visit that centre, you will feel magnificent sensations enchanted by an environment packed a multitude of natural beauties.

Another highlight of the local area I recommend you is Lake Eldrevatnet, a picturesque waters basin with a surface area of 3,48 square kilometres situated at an altitude of 1,116 metres and over 11,0 kilometres long.

It lies along the E16 and in its proximity there are two others simply wonderful such as the Juklevatnet and the Øljusjøen to add without hesitations in your plan of visits admiring something of simply stunning.

In the opposite direction along the road Filefjell Kongeven you can  reach Flam another spectacular site where you can find comfortable accommodations, once there not far, I suggest you visit the spectacular surroundings of  Aurland with the striking view of the unforgettable Aurlandfjord.

That area is also particularly famous for salmon fishing so a great chance to practise that activity or simply to taste and enjoy that superb Norwegian product very famous worldwide prepared there in different styles.

The local delicious cuisine apart fish also offers a vast choice of stews among them the famed Reinsdyrgryte, made by reindeer meat combined several kind of vegetables seasoned with a touch of aromatic thyme.  

If  your flight arrival is at Oslo at Gardemoen Airport, planning a very recommended Fly & Drive you will take about four hours driving for 273,0 kilometres along the previously mentioned E16.

From Bergen Lufthavn Flesland International Airport which could be another great option driving on the same highway in approximately three hours and twenty minutes in normal conditions of traffic you will be at Borgund.

That second chance is pretty recommended if you have the intention to live since the beginning that great experience consisting in a trip crossing one of the most emblematic areas of the Norwegian fjords.  

Those 219,0 kilometres of distance are a succession of magnificent surprises with a scenery very easy to remember forever. In the case you stop for some days in those two cities I wrote posts about them if you are interested.

A visit to Borgund is a must if you are planning to visit Norway, that Stavkyrkje, a 12th century Norwegian architectural wooden masterpiece is mandatory, one of the great protagonists of an unforgettable land boasting in addition an enchanting natural environment all around it in which every metre is as a marvellous and suggestive hidden secret.

Simply taking a look it is so easy to stay hours and hours in total contemplation because Norway everywhere you are always shows the visitor spectacular images to take home with immense pleasure delighting your most enjoyable memories, that village with its iconic Church are certainly two great, true representatives of an endless list of marvels showing you the eternal charm of that Scandinavian Eden you will never forget.

Francesco Mari


Recommended Accommodations in the area

Laerdal Hotel (at Laerdal)
Hotel Fretheim (at Flam - 50 kilometres Approximately from Borgund)
Flam Ferdamminne Apartment

Recommended Restaurants

Fretheim Hotel Restaurant

Useful links


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