Ispra-Lake Maggiore | Gentle Slopes Descending Towards a Bewitching Harbour.

Ispra is a very scenic and pleasant resort on the striking eastern shore of Lake Maggiore,a very attractive town highlighted by gentle slopes descending towards a bewitching harbour, an image very picturesque and suggestive of a place offering all year stupendous sunrises and marvellous sunsets symbols and unforgettable spots of that resort situated along a marvellous coastline of that wonderful waters basin of Northern Italy.

Located on the coast of the region Lombardy at approximately 70,0 kilometres from Milan and  26,0 kilometres west from Varese,Ispra is nestled on a splendid promontory on an inspiring bay between the fascinating Peninsula of Ranco and a sharp tip in its boundaries towards north facing on the other shore of that magnificent lake the enchanting town of  Lesa situated at a short distance from the stunning pearl of the Verbano,  Stresa in Piedmont offering from its waterfront views absolutely romantic and simply unique.

The resort with its approximately 5,500 inhabitants  lies on an ample headland in a very panoramic point between the Monte dei Nassi and Monte del Prete two rocky hills which are with their presence natural local landmarks as two guards dominating the entire scene of that captivating municipality located at altitude of 225,0 metres on a  low plateau dividing Lake Maggiore from the nearest small Lake Monate  reachable crossing the National Road Strada Provinciale 36 leading to the town of Cadrezzate, the first centre on that other tiny waters basin.

The splendid location of Ispra on beautiful curve of the lake boasts a further special detail which worth a mention and it is is that  in every sunny day from its boundaries you will be delighted by the extraordinary  panoramic view of the majestic Monte Rosa covered by snow,  the second peaks of the Alps which are not so far and along the National Road SS 334 driving towards the towns of Laveno and Luino in less than one hour you can reach the Italian-Swiss border at Zenna.

The picture of Ispra is highly fascinating with a superb natural frame, great landscapes, a very  generous mild climate twelve months a year which mother nature donated to that corner of Italian  land situated in a a very strategic geographic point as a perfect gateway to discover all the beauty of the ravishing Lake Maggiore and the immediate woody interior at the foot of the Pre-Alps of Varese.

Spring season is a festival of colours thanks to several flowered gardens and green hills and summer is a stupendous hymn to the most charming nature with sunny days delighting with splendid reflections the splendour of the Verbano,. They are two periods calling a multitude of visitors to enjoy a marvellous festival of colours with great temperatures and a sun constantly shining every day with the chance to enjoy an unforgettable lake cruise to admire that paradise.

The town is including in autumn very romantic,the perfect season for a pleasant walk along its charming lake side promenade with the leaves of the trees falling  and that unmistakable  perpetual sweet breeze embracing the resort which always has something to offer as those images able to inspire thinkers and ordinary people simply taking a look all around.  

Also winter is a special time despite with less hours of light and the days are shorter but all is equally marvellous to spend a late afternoon admiring coast to coast divine sunsets with the enchanting panoramic of the Piedmont coastline and towards north in where that basin presents picturesque inlets, tiny headlands in a wonderful scenery and just behind you  those gentle slopes descending towards the local bewitching harbour ready to trasmit also in those months special feelings and significant sensations.

Many are the chances to practise during a stay different activities in Ispra, as water sports, sailing, diving and swimming are highlights , a mandatory is a lake cruise on one of the most wonderful lakes of the world, visiting places as Arona,  Stresa and  Baveno. (I wrote a post about that place if you are interested). The boat tour of the Borromean Archipelago with the stunning Isola Bella, Isola Madre and Isola Pescatori is another must something you will rememember for ever.

The immediate interior is a paradise for cycling on road often frequented by professional cyclists reaching the boundaries of Besozzo and continuing towards Cittiglio. That area is also very suggested for mountain bikers who can also find other great places in the nearest Monvalle, Leggiuno and Sangiano with several mixed and dirt trails.(I wrote a post about the latter in the case you are interested)  

For the trekkers there are many opportunities to practise their beloved activity over the centres of  Leggiuno,Laveno Mombello and Luino great places on the shore of Lake Maggiore but with high hills and mountains packed by wonderful packs immersed in a wild nature.

Milan is just one hour away ideal to live the vast cultural calendar the second Italian city offers next to its immense historic and monumental patrimony apart to be the international capital of design and fashion and a great hub for shopping and a vibrant nighlife.

Apart all those superb qualities that site has a long history and an important past, populated since prehistoric times and later settlement of the Celtic Insubri who lived mainly of agriculture and fishing before to be assimilated by the Romans during their colonisation in the Northern Italic Peninsula.

  

Those Imperial settlers gave the former village the latin name Hisprum  meaning sharp related to the formation of those rocks forming sharp inlets along the lake covering the entire promontory and once established there they started to trace former calzate, cobblestone roads to link several villages along Lake Maggiore elevating some watchtowers to control possible invasion of the Empire from north.

After the fall of Rome the land was often ravaged by Germanic tribes such as Alemanni and Goths before to enter in the domain of the Lombards who started to develop a territorial subdivision and improving the communications left by the predecessors before to be replaced by the Franks.

 Those new rulers incorporated Ispra in the Holy Empire and they were protagonist of the start-up of the long feudalistic ssystem which characterised a long historic stage of the town.

That centre was for long time governed by the successors, landlords linked to the noble Carolingian Dynasties who continued to rule the territory which had some mutations with the creation of counties and sub counties with more identified borders. 

In the 9th century according to historic documentations confirmed by a concrete date, 826 recorded in the National Historic archive  of Milan, Ispra was a medium centre with a size not extremely big but neither too small and including there were information about a pretty active Ecclesiastic life in its boundaries. 

The Middle Ages were highlighted by the advent of noble Milanese dynasties and notorious are the clashes between the families Torriani and Visconti who fought for a long time for the influence of those territories including Ispra considered of strategic relevance as gate between Central and Southern Europe and the epilogue sentenced the victory of the first.

After the fall and dissolution of those lords the town moved under the Borromeo, another powerful family who had as one of its more influential leader the Cardinal Charles later elevated Saint,who became Archbishop of Milan and made the fortune of some Lake Maggiore sites as Stresa as main stronghold with the famous and wonderul Archipelago.

In that period Ispra started to be an important agricultural place producing wheat,corn and with a notable cultivation of vineyards.Populated by aristocratic families in major part coming from the city of Milan and linked to highest class,that centre fall under  French influence and for a short  period occupied by Spanish troops of the Aragonese Hose before to return under influence of France once again.

Those two occupations in a very short time with several political changes generated a decline and that centre  returned to flourish under Austrian-Hungarian Empire rule during the period of the Kingdom of Lombardy and Veneto, an established Reign by the Habsburg family which included many current regions of Northern Italy vassals of Vienna.

In that time was developed the current harbour which became a cross point  of extreme importance for the transport of goods and also an active customs house with a very busy trade reaching the Swiss border.

Despite those notable improvements Ispra was also a focal point of several riots generated by local patriots against the Hapsburg  and after repressions and clashes the locals joined Garibaldi and the Piedmont troops during the battles related the Italian reunification.After those historic events the centre was incorporated in the Kingdom of Italy ruled by the Savoy House proclaimed in 1861.

The current town was in that time after its integration in the Italian Reign  was practically a centre dedicated to agriculture,it was never developed another source of economy apart the commerce of the Austrian Empire which was interrupted cause the war against The Savoy former Kings of Piedmont and Sardinia.

Some productive activities were fishing, a local resource to satisfy the needs of the families,  the crops of wheat,corn and vineyards were acitivities which fell in decay just like the  mills and Ispra  could not have continuous productive cycles. For that a good number of locals emigrated in bigger centres as Milan and Varese or abroad especially in the nearest Switzerland and in France too.

In the late 19th century there was a notable local development thanks to the lime extraction from the rocks in proximity of the lake and the creation of a railway junction connecting the city of Novara in Piedmont  to Pino Lake Maggiore crossing the town,a period which was the start of the golden ages of the current resort for that kind of industry.

In more contemporary times after the 1st World War in the 20s the municipality as a big part of Italy had a new design of the local maps and the birth of new provinces as that of Varese

merged by several scattered hamlets and small centres who incorporated Ispra in its administration replacing Como in an operation which took place in 1927. 

The municipal composition of Ispra   is the result of many tiny villages close each others since medieval times and the current centre is the fusion of some of them forming  nowadays a network of neighbourhoods such as Case Nuove, Quassa, Borghetto and Ispra Paese while Barza is a sort of territorial partition  between two municipalities which took place in the early 20th century.

The centre of Ispra is mainly arranged around its Parish Church and the Municipio,the Town Hall.Via Marconi is a street consisting in a sort of a passage from the core to the southern side of the lake side promenade where you can see the War Memorial,a stoned obelisk consisting in a monument that Ispra and Barza dedicated to the soldier died in war.

Via Roma and Via Mazzini are the two central axes and confluences of the majority of the small streets developed in the centre of the town. Via Padre Ignazio is another important artery and the name of that road is dedicated to a Missionary native of Ispra died in Brazil in 1935 and it is located  on the northern side of the Town Hall leading to Via delle Fornaci on the Northern side of the local coast.

That latter is a road in which were established the Fornaci, famous furnaces with refractory bricks erected with a shape similar to towers which baked the lime extracted from the hills.

It is interesting from a historic point of view to see that industrial complex which have been for a long time the main resource and engine of the local economy and an emblematic "Fornace" situated next to a small harbour called Port del Pinet on Lake Maggiore shore.

Curiously at distance and sometimes during the navigation or in a cruise, in proximity of the opposite coast many tourists think that building surrounded by a green forest descending towards the harbour is a tower, a fortress or a check point built there to protect in the past Ispra..

Once in the centre of the town you can start the visit with the Chiesa di San Martino,the Parish Church dedicated to St. Martin, a fine light red and ochre Baroque construction with a wide facade accessible by a wooden rectangular doorway developed over a small stoned step.

The body of the structure is the result of the union of two Churches both built on an huge rectangular plan meeting each other in proximity of their apses where they were connected. connected. You will notice on the front side a fresco above the portal and on the top was placed a semicircular stained glass window while the upper section is occupied by a huge pediment topped by a small iron cross.Inside you can admire relevant frescoes and painted vaults by Lombard School dating back the 17th century.

An imposing bell tower dated 1680 located on the right side behind that sacred building was erected on a square plan and subdivided in four stoned blocks. The third is highlighted by a circular watch while the fourth corresponds to the belfry section.The material used for the construction was a fine gray stone just like for the roof surmounted by a polygonal element topped by a pinnacle with a metallic Christian cross.

That Church was in some occasions restored and today it is nowadays very well preserved  showing  charming architectural  lines and a captivating appearance.During some work in the 50's in occasion of excavations due to the construction of a new drink water network around the building were found numerous bones,a sign that in the area there was an ancient cemetery or ossuary dated the antecedent period of construction of that religious building.

On the right side of that Sacred Temple in a small square you can see a monument depicting Padre Ignazio da Ispra, an emblematic figure of the town, a missionary died in South America in the 30's and the commmunity decided to pay homage to one of his sons who dedicated his life to poor people in another Continent.

In Via Europa a street situated at a very short distance from the Chiesa di San Martino in proximity of Via Roma you can see a charming Chapel dedicated to St.Anne.It is a shrine with a portico,square columns, a double arcade and behind a gate in its the interior you can admire a relevant fresco depicting that Saint and a small altarpiece.

There are other Churches in the municipality and in the neighbourhood of Barza you can visit one pretty modern dated the 20th century.The architectural style is a sort of fine and great Romanesque revival with a scenic gable roof over a portico supported by strong columns and highlighted by a wide rose window established on the main facade.

On the sides you will notice other rose windows lined in perfect symmetry and the colours used for that religious building are the white for the walls and the red for the other architectural details. Aesthetically it is a very  harmonious combination, a perfect replica of some examples of medieval Churches present in Lombardy,Piedmont and Emilia Romagna in the 13th and 14th century.

In Barza you can also admire a small votive shrine dedicated to the Virgin Mary located in a small rotunda over a stoned step with a small fountain surrounded by plants. 

The ancient civilisations present in the course of the history have left relevant marks and many artifacts were found in the boundaries of the municipality with the discovery of significant archaeological remains and objects dating back the prehistoric era.

Other more than relevant founds are linked to the first Celtic settlement related to the Golasecca Culture with engraved stones,jars and amphorae, including were also discovered ancient tombs, several pots,tools, utensils,ceramics,plaques, all them left by the Romans civilisation.

Absolutely great was also the discovery of a a very old canoe today displayed in the Isola Bella Museum in the Borromean Archipelago on Lake Maggiore facing the resort of Stresa and a notable parchment dated the 8th century is currently hosted in the Historic Archive of Milan.All those impressive founds are certainly a great confirmation of the importance of that centre in different times.

The two local hills Monte del Prete, which translated means the mount of the Priest and the Monte dei Nassi which denomination probably derives by several badgers which populated the local forest also have something of relevant about historic rests dating back the medieval period.

On the first hill was originally built a fortification called Castello di San Cristoforo,Castle of St.Christopher, a manor erected also as check point overlooking the lake.It was probably devastated during the disputes of the noble feudal families and today are only visible traces of the walls,a section of one of the towers and the rests of a tank which  was used to collect water.

On the second there was a medieval Church called Chiesa di San Crescenzo, today the only visible architectural element is the rest of one of the former walls but also that confirms the notable artisitc activity lived in the Middle Ages in that centre.

For long time,that pleasant centre was inhabited by aristocrats and the result of all that is a large presence of beautiful villas and mansions elevated in a stylish liberty style,such as Villa Banetti,Villa Castelli,Villa Sagramoso Brivio,Villa Ranci,Villa Del Sasso,villa Quassa and also the current Biblioteca Comunale,the Public Library all them surrounded by beautiful gardens or parks.

Some of them as Villa Castelli and Villa Sagramoso Brivio contain some engraved stones dating back the Roman colonisation of the Verbano.

Villa Quassa situated south of the centre is pretty famous because it was the former residence of the young Luigi Cadorna born on the other side of the Lake Maggiore in Pallanza.That man was an important General during the 1st World War and also Field Marshal of Italy while another illustrious former resident was the famous Roman Tenor Pietro Mongini who died in the town.

A highlight attesting the presence of a relevant nobility in Ispra is Il Piccolo Tempio,the little Temple, consisting in  Neoclassic stoned construction erected in white and black granite highlighted by four splendid columns, an ample portico surmounted by a huge pediment and topped by a large dome.

That  building lies in a wide garden and it was established in 1865 in memory of a noble woman, the countess Antonietta Castelbarco Albani wife of the Prince Carlo Castelbarco descendant of the Cardinal Alessandro Albani a distinguished figure in Rome and  in Vatican.   

The splendid waterfront offers a pleasant promenade with a stunning panoramic view on the other coast of Lake Maggiore. The Vecchio Porto,the old port is an iconic symbol of Ispra enclosed between two small stoned banks and hosting small boats.It is part of the local history since its creation and also from that bewitching harbour you can enjoy a superb panoramic view of the that magnificent waters basin and on the other side scenic hill completing a very fascinating frame.

 Looking at behind you from there you can also enjoy that picturesque local scenery with protagonists gentle slopes descending towards that bewitching harbour, definitely a splendid place to stay in contemplation hours and hours admiring that image of that scenic natural paradise called Lake Maggiore.

 In more contemporary times was developed the Porto Nuovo the New Port, built on a large section of the local bay with a wide stoned step and a long lateral bank.

The Lungolago the Lakeside promenade is another attraction offering the chance for relaxing walks,admiring the beautiful local landscapes.It is definitely one of the right places to enjoy the charming Ispra all year and of course a great point to take several wonderful pictures coast to coast.

Ispra is very famous for being the home of JRC the Joint Research Centre and the famous Euratom since 1956 with the presence of distinguished Scientists and Researchers in particular from Germany and France.

The research laboratories are identified under the name Enea Laboratori di Ricerca di Ispra which is a ultra modern complex researching new projects on European scale with projects focused to Industry, Industrial Illumination,Eco design, Electric energy and systems among others. 

I recommend you other places to visit in the vicinity of Ispra. Not far do not miss the pleasant centre of Angera, well known to boast its famous Rocca, one of the medieval stronghold of the Borromeo family dominating the entire lake and its lovely lake side promenade highlighted by stylish flowerbeds and captivating green loans.

Another site that it is must is the magnificent medieval Hermitage of Santa Caterina del Sasso. a marvellous monastery perched on a spectacular high cliff dominating the lake, a Romanesque masterpiece situated in Leggiuno and declared National Monument.

Its image appeared in some movies as one directed by Dino Risi  titled La Stanza del Vescovo, the Bishop's room and in the Promessi Sposi, the Betrohed by Salvatore Nocita produced in 1989 inspired by that literary masterpiece with the same title written by Alessandro Manzoni.

The traditional local cuisine has had a strong Milanese influence and it totally reflects the cuisine of  Lombardy Region.Risotti with mushrooms,vegetables and with the traditional Luganighe, homemade sausages also cooked in different styles such as grilled,boiled or baked are among the most relevant culinary highlights.

The typical Polenta is another notable gastronomic speciality prepared with onion, butter, cheeses, gravy sauces, sausages or accompanied by the Bruscitt.a plate consisting in minced beef cooked in sauce adding spices.

Another plate very popular is the Cassoeula, originally it is a traditional speciality of Milan absorbed in the local culinary culture consisting in a meat stew combined with different vegetables with cabbage as protagonist.

 Traditional specialities are also the famous Ossobuco, that famed cross-cut veal shanks braised in sauce flavoured with fine white wine in some cases accompanying risotto and a further highlight is  the  Cotoletta Milanese, that notorious veal cutlet fried in butter and combined with mixed salads or potatoes.

The local gastronomy also boasts an excellent presence of local homemade Salami and Formaggella,a delectable soft cheese.Gnocchi cooked with butter,cheese and sage is another traditional plate and some local restaurants offer plates of fish such as trout and lake fish as Alborelle, fried bleak and Pesce Persico, a tastefully perch often used as ingredient for a delectable Risotto. 

Ispra is situated approximately 40 minutes driving from Milan Malpensa Airport.You can have two options to reach the resort.One is taking the motorway E62 in direction Gravellona Toce with exit at Vergiate following the indications leading to that centre and Cadrezzate along the National Road SS33. In  alternative you can take in proximity of the Airport the National Road SS336 always in direction Vergiate and from there continuing along the National Road previously mentioned.

Ispra is a splendid destination if you are planning holidays,a short break with a  stay on Lake Maggiore. Culture, history,a splendid and unforgettable lake,a cross point between two important regions as Lombardy and Piedmont, the proximity of Switzerland just 55,0 kilometres away are all together a fantastic incentive to discover unforgettable places.I added some links below if you have futire plans with some suggested accommodations.

That waters basin in every corner is something unique and special and Ispra is certainly  a great image of that stunning wonder.

The view of those stunning landscapes will delight you keeping that magic picture alive in your best memories because Lake Maggiore can do all that and more.

Francesco Mari

Recommended Accommodations in Ispra

Hotel Europa B&B Tana della Volpe

B&B Dei Laghi (at Brebbia - 4,0 km from Ispra)

Recommended Restaurants in Ispra

Ristorante La Baita

Ristorante San Gottardo

Ristorante Schuman

Useful links

www.comune.ispra.va.it
www.isprahoteleuropa.it
www.tanavolpe.it
deilaghi.wordpress.com
www.illagomaggiore.com