Roccaverano | Unique Asti Langhe Enchantment

 

Roccaverano, an attractive center of the province of Asti located on a hill of almost 800,0 meters of altitude dominating the fertile and panoramic Val Bormida, a Piedmontese territory that includes the provinces of Asti and Alessandria landscaped by extensive wooded areas, green plains and gentle hillsides characterized by vineyards that produce excellent wines.

This territory is part of the Langhe, that hilly area corresponding to the south and east of the river Tanaro in the provinces of Asti, Alessandria and Cuneo well known for its fine wines, delicious cheeses and very delectable truffles.

This medieval village, thanks to its picturesque natural and historical setting, is home to cultural events and festivals, also famous for the production of an  elite Robiola DOP and pride of this municipality. Roccaverano also preserves a remarkable monumental heritage linked to a significant past that saw the presence of noble dynasties and feudal lords such as Del Carretto, Scarampi, Valperga, Scaglia and Della Rovere and then passed under the Spanish and French hegemony  before entering the Kingdom of Piedmont and Sardinia of the House of Savoy.

The name of Roccaverano according to citations could derive from Rocha Uverani according to what is transcribed in an ancient document linked to the Ovrano stream that flows nearby although a diploma of the emperor Otto I mentions that the local territory was granted to a character named Aleramo and reported the diction Ruspaverano.

The first impression arriving in Roccaverano part of the Langa Astigiana will bevery pleasant admiring the wonderful images of this Asti enclave in which gullies, vineyards, chestnut and beech woods could give inspiration to any landscape painter in no way.

I recomned starting the visit at the foot of the hill where the medieval village stands with the Church of San Giovanni Battista dating back to the fifteenth century although historical archives suggest that it was built two centuries earlier. Notable are some elements in late Gothic style present in the gabled façade with pronaos and triangular pediment. 

A further attraction consists in the bays of the central nave with pointed arches, including the one in correspondence with the apse, considered the largest of the ecclesiastical buildings erected in the entire province of Asti. 

Inside you can appreciate numerous frescoes attributed to Cuneo masters depicting the twelve Apostles, the four Evangelists and stages in the life of St. John the Baptist.

Continuation with the beautiful Church of Santa Maria Annunziata , a Renaissance masterpiece of the early 1500s which boasts a wonderful façade with a double tympanum attributed to the illustrious master Donato Bramante and a plaque showing an engraving with the date 1509 certifying the work begun by this great artist who worked in Rome during the time of Pope Julius II. 

This three-nave marvel has a beautiful central portal with a semi-tympanum and is a sort of reconstruction, in schemes, of the great works of the Renaissance that brought new lines and highly sought-after aesthetic remodels.

Afterwards you can reach the imposing Circular Tower with its 30.0 meters in height which consists of the surviving element of a castle characterized by three groups of hanging arches developed on the top.

In Roccaverano I recommend visiting a local dairy farm that produces the iconic Robiola DOP di Roccaverano, a sublime Piedmontese cheese of protected origin. 

This gastronomic symbol created from goat's milkis  already mentioned in 1638 by the scholar Frugoli in a writing entitled "Pratica e Scalcaria" enunciating some of its excellent characteristics and described in 1899 by the priest Pistone in documents belonging to the chronicles of the Parish of Roccaverano, a period in which it was already for some decades Robiola had been exported to France.

Awarded in contemporary times with the DPR certificate in 1979 by  the Italian Republic and obtaining the European Recognition in 1996 on that occasion a Fair was celebrated in the municipality in the month of June

The geographical cradle of production is par excellence Roccaverano although it has largely spread over a rather vast territory of the Asti area, encroaching on the Alessandria area up to the limits of the hilly areas of the eastern Langhe where local goats feed on natural fodder, wild herbs and flowers present on the uncultivated and rugged hills of this picturesque Piedmontese territory.

The production processes of this PDO cheese, the only goat's cheese to have obtained this title, which takes place between April and November, obtained from the milking of which contains at least 50% combined with sheep's and cow's milk, left to acidify liquids and brought to a temperature of 18.0 degrees with the addition of doses of liquid cow's rennet if the milk is enzymes and a splash of sea salt. 

The curdling is purged between 24 and 36 hours, the maturation is very short equal to four days and the maximum term for edible use is between 10 and 15 days.

This Robiola can be eaten fresh, immediately after the preparation phases with a storage of only one day or within three weeks of maturation. The white paper with red letters  for packaging with the DOP digit placed in the middle of a concentric circle under the inscription Robiola Roccaverano. The fresh and seasoned wheels have a cylindrical shape with rounded edges with a standard weight of 200.0 grams and a diameter according to tradition not exceeding 16.0 centimeters.

This fresh cheese is totally devoid of rind and after a cut you will  notice its white paste with a vague tendency to straw hue, typically raw, soft and rather fatty and

After a few tastings you will noticethe sweet and delicate flavor that changes into intense, savory and less sweetish in the refined form.

Some sensations on the nose convey an aroma of yogurt tending to hazelnut with a slight hint of wild herbs and that of the pastures, qualities very present in seasoned Robiola. 

This cheese is perfect in courses of a classic menu, combined in appetizers or buffets of dairy products, melted in sauces or sauces, sublime in "Bruss" creamy dough spreadable on toasted bread or croutons, superb if accompanied by excellent wines such as Grignolino, Barbera d'Asti, Dolcetto d'Ovada or Barbera del Monferrato or a thick and robust white.

Time for your lunch, faithful to the traditional, local cuisine, I recommend among the first courses to choose between Gnocchi with Robiola di Roccaverano or Ravioli del Plin Butter and Sage, option of second courses between Braised in Barolo or Roasted with Hazelnut Sauce.

Visiting Roccaverano is a splendid experience, the Langhe territory is very attractive, its very suggestive hilly landscapes constantly cheer the view, a unique experience also admiring historical places as Roccaverano with its history, artistic beauties and elite gastronomic products.

 

Link : https://www.visitlmr.it/en/itineraries/landscape/alta-langa/langa-astigiana-in-and-around-roccaverano

 

Where to Stay – Recommended Accommodation

 

Agriturismo Borghetto la radice

 

Agriturismo Nizur'in

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