Nisyros-Greece | Tiny Shining Hellenic Diamond of the Dodecanese.


Nisyros is one of the several beauties of Greece,a  tiny shining Hellenic diamond of the Dodecanese, that enchanting Archipelago surrounded by the crystalline and turquoise of the marvellous Southern Aegean Sea, stunning islands encircled by a magic aura of  legends and myths created in the Greek classical period always highlighting in narrations and stories the appeal of a stupendous land cradle of an immense culture which fascinated  the entire world.

That marvel of 41,6 square kilometres with an irregular circular shape having a diameter of approximately 8000,0 metres lies between the islands of Tilos and Kos with some scattered islets in its immediate vicinity such as Gyali, Pacheiá, Ágios Antonios, Pergoússa, Kandelioússa and Stroggýli all part of the municipality which reaches with them a total area of 50,05 square kilometres.


Facing the Turkish peninsula of Datça, that scenic promontory appearing at distance as a tentacle of an octopus which wants to catch that tiny island, the special shape of that headland reminds a  bit the times of the Ottoman occupation related to the past of the Dodecanese which was constantly  land of conquest settled during its chronological historical stages by different rulers among them that Empire with capital Istanbul.

Nysiros with its 1010,0 inhabitants is a Regional unit of Kos part of the Administrative region of the South Aegean, its highest point is the Mont Profitis Elias reaching an altitude of 698,0 metres  and well known to boast in its boundaries the eastearnmost volcano of that large section of the Mediterranean, the Polyvatis, a landmark of the entire territory.
 
The island was originally formed by the first primary eruptions with three further stages in the last 150,000 years. The inland is highlighted by the presence of some craters formed between 24,000 and 44,000 years and later five lava effusions totally covered the western volcanic caldera.

Many  eastern coastal sections in proximity of the village of Voriatiko but also along the western coast especially in the area of Karaviotis still present traces of lava flows and in the case of the latter some generated between 1422 and 1822. The volcanic soil of Nysiros continues to be active and all that is visible by sulphur springs and fumes along the coastline but despite that at the moment there is not not a seismic activity

In the 90's an Anglo-Italian group has analysed the local ground with deep tests regarding the possible presence of geothermical resources with the aim to produce clean electric energy which could be in future a notable source.

The island mainly lives of tourism, it  is connected from its major port situated in the capital Mandraki by ferry from and to Kos and Piraeus, Athens very active and busy especially in summer season and Nysiros also provides a heliport.

Other activities are agriculture with olive as predominant product with also various territorial areas cultivated on terraces producing vegetables and the exploitation of pumice and perlite present in the island of Gyali.  

A good range of accommodations and an exquisite cuisine for the joy of many tourists are other great features of a divine Hellenic diamond which immediately bewitches many visitors for its enchanting and picturesque  environment in which marvellous beaches lining unique azure waters are great protagonists.

Excellent are the chances to practise different kinds of water sports, such as diving, scuba diving, snorkeling, sailing, wind surfing but also trekking with many stupendous trails in the wild interior. That place is in addition an Eden for photographers, people who want to enjoy 100% a peaceful and tranquil Aegean haven and very suggested for all those who love 
who love the eternally captivating history of Greece and its extraordinary culture.

Nysiros is furtheromore very recommended for all the the tourists who are fond of archaeology thanks to a superb patrimony as the great complex of Paleokastro, the former Acropolis of the ancient Nysiros a short distance from Mandraki with the stunning presence of the rests of old cyclopean walls established with lavic material.

Immediately landing on the picturesque harbour you will notice in a while why that island is so special,attractive and fascinating transmitting at first sight magic sensations linked to its ancient past.

The local coastline reminds the remote scenery of the epic Greece with heroic landings but also its unmistakable volcanic formation immediately visible on the soil with many signals of dark gravel and pebbles generated by the remnants of lava flows in the late 19th century which covered a large part of the territory.

What it is absolutely enchanting furthermore are the  wonderful colours composing a spectacular natural setting with a large variety of tonalities, magnificent waters ranging from turquoise to emerald,the ochre of the soil burned by the sun mixed  with the gray and brown of cliffs and rocks next to the green of the olive groves and the typical Mediterranean vegetation.

That magnificent rainbow in addition is combined to the charming white and blue,  predominant colours hghlights in the local architecture, loyal to a tradition and cultural roots which are still alive than ever conserving the image of  centuries ago as if time is stood still and also those special details make that marvellous reality extremely attractive.

The history of Nysiros is mainly linked to numerous Rhodian colonists who occupied the ancient Porfiris as it was also known since 479 B.C .The island was historically a loyal allied of Athens in that iconic league of the Attica which fought for a long time against the eternal rival and enemy, Sparta leader of the Peloponnese coalition.

Those times of Greek Classical period are closely related to several legends, mythological narrations and true events which embraced the entire Aegean archipelago.

The ancient Hellenic poulations who saw that smoking volcanic island with its smokes and fumes said that it was the wrath of the God Zeus against someone next to many others stories which always surrounded that diamond of the Dodecanese also depicted as a place of rest for epic and legendary warriors and refuge of regarded divinities escaping by others.

Nysiros according to a legend is related to that and it was the site in which Poseidon,  the powerful God of the sea chased until there the giant Polivotys, a rebel who tried to challenge the venerated Gods of the legendary Mount Olympus.

That iconic divinity followed that figure all around the Aegean and when he saw him on the nearby island of Kos he raised a part of its soil with Polyvotis over it launching that large part of land in the sea.

The final of that suggestive story says that the giant remained buried under that section of Kos and from that episode born Nysiros and that mythological character also gave his name to the  local volcano.

According to other narrations linked to that event, when the volcano is erupting, it is the signal of hatred of that figure against the hated Gods with a special message directed to one in particular.

Also an eminent and emblematic master of the finest Greek literature as Homer mentioned Nisyros in one of its masterpiece, the famous poem called Iliad narrating that it was  one of the places in which Achilles and Agamennon, notorious Hellenic warriors and heroes armed there the Greek fleet to plan the invasion of the legendary Troja and living for a period in that island. 

Other historical documentations are related to the Catalogue Ships, an epic book inserted by that famous philosopher telling that it was a territory ruled by Phidippus and the brother Anthipos sons of Thessalus King of Kōs and Chalchiope sister of the sorceress Medea, grand daughter of the sun God Helios.

According to scripts narrated by Herodotus, distinguished and regarded Greek historian from Halicarnassus, Caria corresponding to the current town of Bodrun, Turkey, Nysiros was inhabited in 480 BC by colonists from Epidaurus, a small city located in the Argolid Peninsula on the Saronic gulf.

It said that Dorian population participated as allied of the Persian Empire, joining the army led by Artemisia I of Caria in the epic Batlle of Salamina against the League of the Greek cities-states, a naval clash which took place in the Straits of Salamis.

That event determined the victory of the Greeks with the unsuccessful operation by Persia to conquer the Peloponnese and a consequent Helllenic occupation of Nysiros.

After that considerable event that Dodecanese island entered in the Delian League led by Athens  and confirming that there are recorded historical documentations with some taxes archives edited between 452 and 428 BC. In addition certifying all that was the discovery of  bronze minted coins depicting the island in the 4th century BC made by settlers from Attica, the historical region that encompasses the current capital of Greece.

Other traces of ancient history of that gem were are narrated in the 1st century BC by the famed historian, geographer and philosopher Strabo from Amaseia, Pontus, the present  NorthernTukish city of Amasya in the Black Sea region who described in that time Nysiros as a centre pretty well developed with an active harbour boasting hot and thermal springs with including the presence of a big temple dedicated to Poseidon.

In that period the island was conquered by the Romans who incorporated it in the Insulae Provinciae, an Aegean province of the Imperial Rome which was later integrated it in the Diocese of Asia of the Praetorian prefectures of the East after the reforms of the Emperor Diocletian.

That territorial organisation was abolished by Justinian I in 535 and Nysiros since then started to be part of a Quaestura Excercitus,, an administrative district which had as major seat Odesus, the current Bulgarian city of Varna part of the Byzantine Empire with capital Constantinople.

After the long domain of the Roman Empire of Orient in 1315 Nysiros became a stronghold of the Knights Hospitaller, the Order of  of the Knights of St.John of Jerusalem founded in 1113 during the times of Pope Paschal II, by Gerardo Sasso, an Italian Benedectine Monk from Scala, a small town in province of Salerno who later received the Beatification in Vatican.

That Special Order, paladin of the Christianity in the Middle Ages  conquered the entire Dodecanese in a crusade against the Saracens elevating on the soil of Nysiros a fortress defending that island until the 16th century, period in which took place the conquest of the Ottoman Empire which renamed it  İncirli and the archipelago took the denomination of Odiki Adalar during the times of the Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent.


For a period after a long Turkish rule Nysiros with the the archipelago became an Italian protectorate during thr times of the House of Savoy and the Kingdom of Italy. That occupation is linked to the Italo-Turkish War also known as Tripolitanian War or Lybian War endured from 29th September 1911 to 18th October 1912.

That clash was generated by some diatribes about territories in that North African Nation with epicentre the Vilayet of Tripolitania, also known as Kingdom of Tripoli, but that conflict which saw the Kingdom of Italy and the Ottoman Empire protagonists also spread  in the Dodecanese with the occupation of the Italian Army.


 Also in that case that site changed denomination but respecting the old Hellenic name with an italianised Nisiro and the archipelago was called Isole Italiane dell' Egeo, Italian islands of the Aegean.

That rule started in 1912 ceased to have a political and administrative influence in 1943 but officially enduring until 10th february 1947 when the islands were controlled by the British Government after the 2nd World War before to be integrated in the Greek Republic of which they are still part.
  
Nysiros is considered a Pelagian island, lands identified of on high sea, far from the mainland and its main centre is Mandraki situated on the northwestern coast linked to east by a coastal road called Epar Od Palon to two villages called Loudra and Paloi  while Emap Od Movopaki located at south of the territory is another important road which runs for almost three quarter of the the territory around the island.

In the interior is situated the village of Emporios reachable by the mentioned Epar Od Palon situated in proximity of a small forked road on the right after approximately 1,5 kilometres before to reach Paloi.

From the port of Mandraki there are ferries services to the islands of Kos and other destinations such as Kardamaina, Tilos, Leros, Piraeus,Chalkis and Rodos.

The 80% of the local population of Nysiros lives in the capital characterised by charming narrow pebbled street and the typical Hellenic Dodecanese architecture which has in its main highlights white houses arranged on two stories with painted doors and shutters in a traditional blue colour, wooden balconies and many of them are built using volcano rock insulated with pumice coming from Gyali.

The core of the centre is Plateia Delfinion, a charming square with a beautiful pebbled floor and that name means square of the dolphins.The traditional architectural environment around that very fascinating place including in the small details was mainly developed by local artists and also for that it is a pride of the local community.

The beating heart of Mandraki is arranged behind a row of captivating houses elevated in proximity of the local shoreline in proximity of the harbour and above it west to the centre on low hill of 150,0 metres of altitude you can admire the Castle of the Order of St. John Knights dominating from a scenic position stunning local bay.

That building is the fortress erected in 1315 by those knights who participated to the crusades in the Dodecanese but also in the Holy Land in Jerusalem. The local medieval history was strongly linked for long time to them who for two centuries protected Nysiros by several and numerous Turkish attacks.

Today the castle is still well conserved and apart the beautiful medieval image with strong walls developed using big lavic stones showing a  defencive architectural system well organised with view from every cardinal point and reminiscent those times you can notice Coat of Arms reminiscent the historic presence of that Order.

 Very interesting the stages of the Cavalieri Ospedalieri di San Giovanni which  probably started to be active over 60 years before of its official foundation with basis launched by some traders of the glorious Marine Republic of Amalfi who settled in the current in the Holy Land.

The Knights of St.John were also called Knights of Rodos because they conquered Rhodes in the 14th century in the same period of their landing on Nysiros leaving them two centuries later when they were defeated by the Turks.

 After that event those paladins loyal defenders of the Roman Church found refuge for a period in Northern Lazio, Italy and afterwards they were hosted in the island Malta in 1530 for order of the Emperor Charles V.

Another highlight of the island is Panagia Spiliani, a Monastery erected in the 16th century
 situated northwest of the centre of Mandraki  on a low plateau reachable climbing approximately 120 steps and in its courtyard there are some shops to buy some local articles and souvenirs.

That Sacred building was developed in a cave and its name derives from that, it is subdivided in two churches, one dedicated to Kimisi tis Theothoku, the Assumption  also known as  Virgin of the Caves while the second is devoted to Agios Charalambros. 

The first is particularly relevant because in its interior hosts a considerable fine  Orthodox Icon of Eastern European school dated the 18th century depicting the Virgin Mary with Jesus Child. It is a work probably of an unknown Russian master and that image is highly venerated by many believers because was elevated as protector of ill people.

 That seat has a Religious Museum containing relevant religious objects and from 6th to 15th august is celebrated there an important event with a feast with the Monastery as protagonist highlighted by a great participation of the locals.

A very interesting museum which worth a visit is the Folklore and Historical Museum, hosted in the house of Irene Patrikis ,an exhibition which is particularly useful for the visitor to discover and learn more about culture, history,costumes, traditions and the Dodecanese including lifestyle of the inhabitants.

That exhibition displays handcrafts ,tools, embroidery and utensils of the farmers and it is arranged in a typical local house with also a traditional Nysirian kitchen offering an extensive illustration of the history of Nysiros starting from the first settlers and its more relevant periods as highlights.

 Not far from the harbour on a hill overlooking capital lies the archaeological area of the stunning Paleokastro Acropolis founded in the 4th century B.C, one of the main highlights of the relevant discoveries emerged in that splendid island linked to its long and captivating history.

That Acropolis was the site in which was organised the main local political and social live and furthermore the rests of ancient fortifications with walls considered and classified as  Pelasgians meaning descendant of one of the most ancient Greek dynasties in the Hellenic civilisation also certify a considerable relevance about the defencive purposes that place represented.

The complex greatly preserved presents  on its southern side six towers established along a wall 230,0 metres long and two erected on the oriental section in correspondence of a walled wing reaching a length of approximately 80,0 metres. In addition you can admire one of its original gates 3,20 metres high with a width of 2,10 metres.

On the top of the walls made with basaltic andesite, a very hard volcanic rock  at an altitude of 7,5 metres were developed walkways reachable by stairs with 18 steps.That fortress was in constant contact with watchtowers elevated in other cardinal points of Nysiros with smokes signals during the day while at night the alerts were indicated by fire, the same system used centuries later by the Marine Republics.

Emporios is a very small village located in the interior and it is mainly dedicated to the agriculture activities. That tiny centre is a compostion of picturesque white houses surrounded by olive groves and some fruit trees attached to Paloi by a narrow road at the foot of a hilly plateau called Mount Lakki on which there are some craters corresponding to the huge volcano Polyvatis.

That small settlement as says its name was probably a cross point of local merchants and place to store goods, it is a hamlet with approximately 50 inhabitants and its beating heart is concentrated around its main square.

Once there you can see Panagia Kyra, a splendid  Orthodox Monastery declared in the 50's  National Historic Monument consisting  in a construction erected on a rectangular plan with a nave, a beautiful portico with an ample fine arcade and restored in some occasions.

There is a legend linked to that Religious site saying that in the 16th century a beautiful icon depicting the Virgin Mary was transported to be decorated from there to Istanbul, the former Constantinople, capital of Turkey.

During its return in a day characterised by a terrible storm the ship  sank and the icon was found by a woman on the local coast of Nisyros and after that she immediately informed all the inhabitants.

 That time was highlighted by a notable lack of waters in the Dodecanese and the woman had a vision in which St,Mary told her to reach a specific place and once there starting to dig. 


Listening that mystical message she went in that concrete point starting to dig when appeared a large jet of drinking water. After that miracle the locals as sign of gratitude and devotion decided to build that Monastery and that legend today is still narrated to the new generations, deeply rooted in the local culture.

After that event other thermal water sources were discovered in that area  but also  in Loutra, a short distance west of Emporios along the coast. Despite that very pleasant discovery elevated as an important vital resource Nisyros especially in summer season needs much more water because that collected in its territory is not enough and the costs are pretty expensive.

On the local hill you can admire magnificent panoramic views and also the Castle of Pantoniki erected as check point used by the Knights of St.John during the long period of war against the Ottomans. They originally established a simple former combination of fortified walls transforming that site later in a strong complex also containing a splendid small Church, a place which in its kind became an iconic symbol of the entire island for its important purposes protecting Nysiros by numerous sieges.

In the southeastern area of the island at 14,0 kilometres from Mandraki on a hilly plateau at 410,0 metres of altitude is situated a fascinating village called Nikia overlooking from a splendid promontory the beautiful  Aegean Sea.

With its typical architecture consisting of whitewashed houses decorated in traditional Greek style with painted shutters and doors, flowered wooden balconies, Nikia offers stunning panoramic views of an enchanting coastline and also the immediate interior is very captivating with a typical Mediterranean vegetation.

That place is simply fascinating representing in its kind a pleasant jump to the past with a marvellous square developed in the 19th century by a Nysirian artist and artisan called Paschalis Paschalakis who arranged a space in a masterly way with a fantastic pebbled pave surrounded by light scenic buildings.

A superb attraction established on that marvel is Eisodion Theotoku, a Church dedicated to the Virgin Mary Presentation highlighted by a charming bell tower boasting a stupendous stylish belfry.

The facade is a true masterpiece with splendid arched light blue doors, a refined balustrade and a fine portal under a small portico. The interior is absolutely wonderful with an attractive nave, sinuous barrel vaults, paintings, icons, magnificent chandeliers and a great carved pulpit. 

The atmosphere in Nikia is very pleasant and relaxing, you can breathe the unmistakable magic air of the Dodecanese in all its spirit and essence and under that fairytale place is situated another small settlement called Avlaki which is in its kind a sort of tiny marina of the village.

The coast in that point is very picturesque, wild with a long succession of small bays, coves and tiny inlets dominated by scenic cliffs, a spectacular post card of Nysiros,highly   recommended for everybody to admire something simply unique.

Those stunning panoramic maritime views next to shaped gentle hills are all images all to immortalise in hundreds of magnificent pictures showing all the splendour and appeal of that shining diamond of the Dodecanese.
 
Nikia is also well known to be located where lies the bigger crater of the volcano Polyvodis boasting an axe of approximately  330, 0 metres in length with a depth of 30,0 metres also called Stefanos.  

It is considered one the biggest best preserved hydrotermal volcanoes in the globe and it was formed between 3.000 and 4.000  years ago becoming since a long time ago a constant attraction and reference for many geologists and specialised photographers.

The volcano surrounds a caldera, a sort of valley  approximately 2,400 metres long and with a width of 950,0 metres. On its edge you can visit the Volcanological Museum to know more about the volcanic features of the island, details of the craters and their history. 

It is a great exhibition displaying  pictures, maps, documentations, diagrams, photographs and volcanoes models with also technology as protagonist with tri dimensional images, computer simulation and digital information of those great attractions. 

 Polyvotis volcano is also linked to the mythological legend of the giant buried mentioned at the beginning and it is the most oriental volcano presents in the Aegean Sea. 

All the Dodecanse islands and islets for their volcanic origin are certainly a great attraction and something which is highly attractive is simply thinking that many of those craters you can see nowadays were formed by eruptions of over 4,000 centuries ago and in Nysiros many sections of the coastline are highly covered by lava flows forming rocks dated different eras.

Today the activity of that volcano consists in some smokes from the craters generating  sulphurous sources more down towards the coastline. All that is under constant control of expert geologists and apart the crater in the area of Nikia you can admire others situated on the mount Lakki.


Gyali island reachable with local excursions is part of the municipality and it has always been a very important economical resource for the mother island because on its soil there is an extraction of pumice stones since the 60's, an activity which created a business with a good exportation and a notable resource of revenue for Nysiros and also used for the insulation of many structures.


Apart the previously mentioned Paleokastro the island also has part of its superb and immense  archaeological patrimony in other areas as in the case of of Loutra, situated  about 4,0 kilometres from the capital Mandraki.In that small centre were found many artifacts and a great discovery was a relevant Roman Domus, a noble Roman Patrician Villa.

That site is also well known for its Thermal Spas with springs having water with a temperature of 37°, very indicated therapies for specific diseases as rheumatisms, sciatica, dhermatological problems as acnes and arthritis among others.

Naturally the local beaches are also another important and magnificent highlight attracting several tourists for their magnificent beauty, marvels of that diamond of the Dodecanese which offers the visitor the chance to spend sunny and unforgettable holidays enjoying those magnificent coastal stretches.

 Splendid beaches  are near Mandraki not far from the harbour but also in proximity of the fishing harbour of Loutra you can find some virgin wonders.Along the coastal road Epar Od Palon I suggest you the beach of Gialiskari, It is is not very long and wide but pretty sandy and picturesque lining wonderful turquoise waters and it could be considered a true spot of the beauty of Nysiros.


Another one is the beach of Paloi nor far from Emporios, a splendid bright stretch excellent for swimming in a Eden of emerald waters enjoying sunbaths and the natural beauty of its very scenic, peaceful and tranquil environment.

A further one absolutely divine is Lyes situated approximately 2,5 kilometres east of the previous close to the Spa & thermal Baths establishment.The beauty of that stunning coastal stretch  is also its longitude approximately 1,4 kilometres long with a sandy section, another with pebbles and small stones, simply fascinating also for its position beneath low hills.

South of Avlaki there is another one particularly attractive and once there after a day enjoying snorkeling, swimming and sunbaths you can continue with a pleasant early evening with an unforgettable sunset on the Aegean with lights and reflections absolutely mesmerising continuing later walking in the narrow and romantic streets of the picturesque Nikia, It is a suggestion to have a complete idea of how is magnificent Nysiros  wonderful in different times of a day.

The images of that land at dawn is very special, I recommend you a walk during early morning when you can see the sun coming and illuminating with its first rays the coast and the sea making that place an absolute dreamland, if you are in Mandraki close to the hill of the fortress or also Emporios offers images you will probably remember for an eternity.

The local cuisine reflects in all its essence the typical delectable Greek gastronomy. Naturally fish is one of the main highlights prepared in different styles,grilled, baked and in  sauce among others. Local pride is the notorious Giambrakia, exquisite marinated fish, do not miss to try the Psaurosoupa a delicious fish soup, simply excellent are also the always fresh mussels, clams, scampi and lobster. 

Gyros with Tzatziki and Pikilia as traditional starters are often served with fresh prawns, and vegetables. You will find the he iconic plates  MoussakaTyropita, Taramosalata, Horiatiki but  typical of Nysirian dishes are the famed Boukounies, pork cooked with different kinds of aromatic herbs and the Kapanas, stuffed young goat.

 In the local culinary art there is also a frequent use of cheese, but not only the notorious Feta generally presents in many recipes and combined with other different plates. You can taste local dairy products with a notable reputation such as Mizithra and Trigias.


Very popular is also the Saganaki consisting in fried cheese often served with seafood and another highlight is the chickpea pita with sliced tomatoes and thaini lemon sauce.

The pastelaries is a renowned dessert composed by almonds with figs and sesame seeds while the Xerotigana is another speciality consisting in fried pastries combined with honey syrup.  

The Soumada ,a kind of energetic almond drink is one of the traditional products of that island, worth also a mention the Kanelada , a soft drink made with cinnamon and the Koukouzina is a pretty strong spirit.

Nisyros is connected by ferry from to and to many Greek ports such as  Kos, Rodos, Chalkis,Tilos,Laros,Kalymos also from the important port of Attika Piraeus in the case you land on Athens and the services are provided by the the Company Blue Star Ferries & Dodekanisos.

That splendid shining diamond of Dodecanese is a superb tiny shining Hellenic diamond in an enchanting archipelago, an immense extraordinary mosaic packed by natural gems all to discover. Nisyros in all its beauty, splendour, magic appeal  is one of its most shimmering wonders, absolutely outstanding ,ideal destination to delight your holidays in Greece taking with you stupendous, unforgettable memories.

Francesco Mari



Recommended Accommodations in Nisyros

Hotel Romantzo
Hotel Three Brothers
Spiladi House
Hotel Ta Liotridia
Apartments Mammis

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