Arnad | Fascinating Beauty and Gastronomic Delights of the Lower Aosta Valley

 

Arnad  is a hilly centre located at 361 meters of altitude situated near the picturesque Col de la Cou on the banks of the Dora Baltea river and on the border of the municipality of Bard, considered as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy in the magnificent territory of the Lower Aosta Valley at the foot of the imposing Western Alps.

Ancient settlement developed in Roman times and then living in the medieval era as a fief of local Lordships before entering the sphere of influence of the Savoy Kingdom.

Arnad is a place loved by many trekking enthusiasts who can enjoy its municipal terms, a multitude of spectacular paths reaching enchanting Alpine resorts.

Other highlights are the excellent climatic conditions, a historical-artistic heritage of great importance and a delicious gastronomy, with elite meats, renowned chestnuts, exquisite honey, the excellent Arnad Montjovet DOC wine and the famous Lard d'Arnad, a unique Aosta Valley product.

I recommend starting the visit from the historic Échallod Bridge, a strategic passage of the historical route called Via Francigena along the road that leads to Verrès then continuing to the entrance of the village of the hamlet of Machaby where there is a boulder called "Fertility Stone" or also "Women's Slide" or "Guaita" is the follower of Celtic rites that were celebrated in pre-Roman times.

Beautiful are the panoramic views on a hill at 696.0 meters above  sea level among dense chestnut woods of the Sanctuary of Notre-Dame-des-Neiges, a building erected in 1687 on the remains of another built previously.

This religious building with a valuable, outlined gabled façade boasts a portico with refined columns and completed in the rear body by a beautiful bell tower.

On the valley next to the village you will admire the striking silhouette of the Upper Castle d'Arnad built in the 12th  century on a picturesque promontory that was the residence of the aristocrats Bard and Valleaise, visible are the silhouettes of the high towers and walls that surrounded this medieval manor.

Further downstream stands the Lower Castle also called Château Vallaise or Palais de la Costetta, now a private building.

Restored after a period of neglect which, although of origins dating back to the Middle Ages, was totally rebuilt in the 17th  century by the Vallais family.

The structure, elevated on three floors , has seven crenellated towers raised on a quadrangular plan, two of which are erected on the sides of the main entrance that leads to a large courtyard.

Continuation with the Osta Complex, now a private residence, also known as the name of "Casaforte" and "Torre di Ville"  residence that since 1295 was the residence of the nobleman Pietro di Vallaise.

This fortress is characterized by an imposing tower built in the 11th  century on three floors and another smaller one coupled with a wall with access to the south and containing a nineteenth-century chapel dedicated to St. Anthony.

Afterwards you will reach the Church of San Martino, presumably developed in the 9th century as a monastery chapel erected by  the Benedictine monks of Fruttuaria with traces visible in the central apse.

This  magnificent medieval, religious structure was then enlarged between the 11th  and 12th centuries showing beautiful architectural details in Romanesque and Gothic styles, subject to various transformations in the following centuries.

The large façade with a central portal is beautiful, the interior boasts beautiful barrel vaults and numerous cycles of ancient frescoes depicting biblical scenes and a large wooden altar in Baroque style.

Very interesting is the adjacent Museum of Sacred Art containing statues, reliquaries, bas-reliefs, sacred vestments, goldsmithing, books and religious objects from various eras. 

Relevant highlights are a wooden crucifix from the 13th century, two bas-reliefs of German school depicting St. Roch and St. Sebastian, attributed to Michael Parth, an artist active in this geographical area in the 16th century.

I recommend visiting Arnad a factory that produces the exquisite and renowned Lard d'Arnad DOP,  a product of  regional Protected Designation of Origin branded in the two official languages, Italian and French, the pride of the Aosta Valley with an internationally achieved reputation.

This product was already known in archives from 1570 when it was prepared as  a food reserve during the winter season and stored in  the Doils where it was subject to seasoning, very resistant chestnut wood crates that obviated the leakage of brine thanks to a composition of joints, all no later than 48 hours after the date of slaughter.

Production begins with the cutting of  the shoulder and back of the pig of an adult pig of the same type of animals bred to produce the famous San Daniele and Parma hams and aged at least 9 months and weighing at least 160 kilograms.

Wewill then  move on to the trimming  process by removing the rind with the lard boiled with salt, pepper, rosemary, bay leaf, cinnamon, juniper, cloves, nutmeg, sage and yarrow, ingredients added to flavor everything.

Then the Carnian elaboration will be placed in layers in closed glass containers with a weight over the lid adding water, coarse salt, other specific doses of the spices mentioned, an operation that corresponds to the beginning of the seasoning which will last from three months to about a year.

For the pieces that you want to mature for a long time, sprinkle them with white wine and then close them in airtight containers.

The sizes have a thickness of no less than 3.0 centimeters which vary in terms of weight between 3.0 hectograms and 4.0 kilos keeping the rind on one side.

The shade of the exterior is white with often the presence of a Carnic layer, when cut you will see the typically pinkish heart, without veins.

The organoleptic characteristics have a very aromatic smell originating from the herbs and spices mixed in the brine while the taste is very pleasant, from sweet to flavored with very pleasant sensations after a few seconds.

The edible use is very varied making the Lard d'Arnad a very versatile gastronomic product , excellent if served in mixed appetizers alongside Mocetta, Dzambon and Salami, excellent in soups, stews, superlative if finely chopped and added on slices of toasted or fried polenta, delicious if browned with garlic adding a pinch of honey and placed on toasted bread,  a specialty called "Bocon du Diable", perfect if included in soups with bacon, rind and feet.

Time to enjoy the lunch of the day I recommend to start a mixed appetizer of cold cuts including Bousin, Lard' d' Arnad, Mocetta and Dzambon, first courses to choose between Chestnut flour gnocchi with Fontina cheese or  Ravioli with goat ricotta with Berries sauce, second courses to choose between Aosta Valley cutlet with potatoes or Baked Pork Shank with Mixed Vegetables.

A visit to Arnad is highly recommended to all those who love art, history, fairytale landscapes in this area of the Aosta Valley where the imposing Western Alps dominate hills and gentle fascinating slopes and in addition discovering the loca,l gastronomic delicacies able of satisfying the most demanding palates.

 

Link - https://www.lovevda.it/en/database/3/tourist-resorts/aosta-valley/arnad/363

 

Where to Stay | Recommended Accommodation

Forte di Machaby

La torre

 

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