Taormina-Italy | Pillar of Heaven in Sicily.


Taormina is one of the most fascinating and prestigious seaside resorts of Italy,called by the famous Greek classic poet Pindaro pillar of heaven,probably those three words identifying that pearl of Sicily are so appropriate and that great figure,exponent and master of the most sublime Hellenic literature who was also famous for its talented inspirations describing outstanding places was totally right.

That divine place nestled on the hilltop of the Northeastern Sicilian coast which offers in all its splendour unforgettable views overlooking the emerald waters of the Mediterranean Sea and with the scenic image of the Volcano Etna so close is considered one of the most picturesque,charming and spectacular places to visit in that sunny island along the Ionian coast.

It is not a case,that such unique Eden was chosen since long time ago as favourite destination by prominent and famed artists and later by the International Jet-Set and in addition it was set of the famous American movie Mighty Aphrodite by Director Woody Allen.

That natural shining diamond is not only a stupendous simple landscape but it is also cradle of a relevant history in all its essence and one of the best picture of the world in which everything is created on a land which seems to captivate the eyes, mind and imagination.

 In Sicilian language someone sometimes says : "Guadda Taommina,guadda u mare quantu é beddu, tirra nu suspiru e goddi" :and that translatesd means  look at Taormina,look at the sea here how is is beautiful, breathing a sigh and enjoy.."

Among almonds, oranges,cactus and pines trees it turns out to admire a charming seaside town, the mountains which rise in a semicircle towards the blue sky,a place where appear villages and castles and again,moving the eyes every visitor will be fascinated by the Etna overlooking the Mediterranean ad that mountain so majestic and imposing stands there in all its grandeur, like an ancient titan.

To the right and left, if you look,emerge all the beauty of the entire eastern coast of Sicily, nature expresses everything and more and in simple words the captivating charm explodes there in all its glory overlooking  the Ionian another beauty sang by Pindaro,Homer and all the great poets and philosophers who created some of the most sublime literary works inspiring a multitude of other writers in the following centuries.

The history of Taormina as one of the major centre of the ancient Sicily is rich of events,starting in 832 B.C,when the Calcidius Ionic Greeks from Euboea founded Naxos the first Greek colony in Sicily,the current Giardini Naxos (I wrote a post about that other resort absolutely splendid).

.About the former and ancient name of Taormina Tauromenion there are many versions and debates.The site was born with that name still retained even if transformed in the current which means dwelling on the Taurus and built on that mountain.Diodorus of Sicily in the 14th century book proves that the Siculis (Sicilians),which Dionysius of Syracuse,one of the most powerful characters of Megale Hellas (the Magna Gracae) in that period had previously granted them the land around Naxos (Giardini-Naxos today) occupying the Monte Tauro in the years of  Olympiad in the  396 B.C.

The Ionic Greeks started to call it Tauromenion from Mediterranean Sicilian sources narrating legends.One of them is about a fabled Minotaur which appears in that mountain and later depicted as a symbol in ancient coins,which attributes and certifies the foundation and the name of the town.

 Another one recalls two Princes,probably from a land corresponding the actual Palestine area,called Taurus and Mena,which have founded that settlement,giving it the name Tauromeniti combining the two names,while another version is from Monte Taurus a mountain near Taormina.Despite that according historic documentations,the nascent town was named Tauromenion but not from the names of the Princes previously mentioned but from the words composed by Tauro (the mount) and the ancient Hellenic form Menein,which means stay.

A further supposition is derived by a mixture of words,the local Siculo and the Greek,present in the 16th book by Diodorus from the shape of that hill,very similar to a bull and if you look at it from a particular perspective from one side of the coastline,it reminds the shape of that animal.

Historically Taormina was part of one of the most relevant powers developed in Sicily during the Greek colonisation,Syracuse until when the Imperial  Rome in the year 212 BC declared all Sicily a Roman province.

The history is also linked to facts related to the former inhabitants who never accepted with pleasure to be a territory under Siracusa rule and they established a strong alliance with the Romans and Cicero.In the second oration against Verres,mentions that Taormina is one of  the three Civitates Foederatae (a provinc towns included in a sort of confederation) a title which the Imperial Rome gave places of a relevant historic importance and for something of important linked to the increasing historic and cultural value of the Empire.

.During the Servile War in the years 134-132 BC,the town was occupied by insurgent slaves,who chose it as a safe stronghold.In the 36 BC during the war between Octavian and Sextus Pompeus, the latter's troops landed at Naxos to retake Taornina which Sextus Pompeus had previously occupied and lost but the rival sent several legions and reconquered for the second time that land.It was also the period in which Octavian became Emperor Augustus in the 21 BC,and establishing there a loyal Roman Colony.

After the fall of Rome,Taormina was invaded by the Vandals and also by the Ostrogoths who occupied a large part of the Italic peninsula and  later returning under Roman rule when it was integrated in the Byzantine Empire.

Also the Moorish conquered the town which was renamed Al-Muizzia (Almoeziá is the pronunciation) so called in honour of the Imam Al-Muizz, who was a Fatimid Caliph,a leader who had a constant charismatic influence in the Arab world about military operations of conquests of new lands fiercely driven for years in that area of the Mediterranean until the year 906 AD.

The history changed in the year 1078 when the Normans led by Roger I besieged and conquered after intense battles Taormina.It subsequently under the Swabians, Angevin and later Aragoneses,the town suffered several changes of rulers.

Due all those changes,that flourished ancient centre started a decline for the obvious reasons of a political instability moving under different occupations who gave priority to their own interests and less to the development of a centre which has always been a place highly considered since ancient times. 

The current resort also suffered the siege of the French in the year 1675 and including after a second temporary occupation by France during Napoleon Bonaparte rule,when it  joined  the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies of the Bourbons until 1860,famous year linked to the unification of Italy linked to the expedition led by Giuseppe Garibaldi with the famous land in Sicily.

Incorporated in the Kingdom of Italy under Savoy rule,former Sovereigns of Piedmont and Sardinia,
 during the 2nd World War,the Sicilian resort was occupied by German troops who established there a headquarter of the Wehrmacht and the town also suffered bombings by Anglo-American troops on July 9th, 1943 with luck,despite some little damages,the relevant historic patrimony mainly remained intact.

Artistically,that enchanting resort was always a destination of prominent figures with a fame which reached an international level with a multitude of visits by famed characters who made their fortunes,such as Goethe, Nietzsche,Wagner and Wilde among others

All those distinctive artists as many others chose that place as one of their favourite sites to fill their works with divine inspirations admiring under an always warm sun the best you can enjoy in that corner of Southern Europe along the Ionian coastline.

It was also thanks to those personalities linked to the highest intellectual sphere that the resort gained day by day prestige and the promotion generated by such important men increased the desire of visits and stays in that marvellous Sicilian resort by an endless lists of other popular figures who also were inspired by the Classic Hellenic literature reading the masterpieces of Pindaro and others and all them fall in love with that so famous pillar of heaven.

The visit of Taormina can start from a very emblematic point,retracing an ancient Greek-Roman path, the old road named Via Consolare Valeria which was named in honour of the Roman Consul Marcus Valerius Levinius,who in the 210 BC was governor of Sicily.That was the relevant artery which connected Catania to Messina and Taormina is located 58,0 kilometres from Catania and 51,0 kilometres from Messina two of the most important Sicilian centres. 

From its coast Spisone also called by the ancient Greeks  Path of the Gods,starting from the current Porta Catania (Catania Gate) which is the entrance of the town,the classic visit consists in to reach the other ancient door,the Taormina Northern gate today called Porta Messina which was in the past site of the of the Tempio di Giove Serapide (Temple of Jupiter Serapides).

Well in that concrete geographic point you are is also one of the most flourished cores of the ancient Magna Graecia a door of trade,cultural interchanges and social life in the Greek Sicily before to be Roman and between those two "Porte"there are all the artistic and historic treasures of that magnificent resort.

In ancient times the town was defended and protected by a circular wall with a triple system of fortifications that started from north to north-east on the side which looks Messina and ran out to the west with a path on the side of Catania  with the mentioned Porta Catania which was restored in the Aragonese period.It is an arched gate developed in Sicilian stone flanked by columns with a typical diamond-shaped emblem of the Aragon Crown dated the year 1340.

In Porta Catania you can admire the former Chiesa di Sant´Antonio,a Church dedicated to St.Anthony.It is a construction consisting in a nave with a small bell tower dated 14th century,a very interesting place apart the architectonic and historic value also because it is home of a permanent miniature where you can discover in a nutshell many of the most important local monuments and to have immediately an idea of the town,a sort of visual map hifghlighting the history and the position of all its more important places to visit.

Crossing that gate you will enter in Corso Umberto Iº,which is the main local street,a very captivating avenue highlighted by its chic boutiques,shops,bars and a lively atmosphere.Turning on the left in the street Via Sesto Pompeo and taking Vico Spuches,a charming alley,in that concrete place you can admire Palazzo dei Duchi di Santo Stefano the Palace of the Dukes of St. Stephen.

That splendid building dated the 14th century is definitely one of the masterpieces of Gothic art in Sicily,which absorbs and blends together elements of Moorish and Norman architecture.

It was the formerly residence of a noble family of Spanish origin called Spuches, Dukes of Santo Stefano Brifa and Princes of Galati, two towns part of Messina county on the Mediterranean Ionian coast.The Arab reminiscences are recorded by the decoration on the top of the palace with a wide frieze which runs along the two sides to the east and northern frieze consisting of a wave of lava stone,alternating with pieces of diamond-shaped white stone from Siracusa,forming a magnificent lace of marquetry.

The Norman architectonic details are instead very visible in the shape of the tower which shows a square layout and much more the crenellated walls which in all its total aspect make it as a typical Norman fortress of that time.

The palace is composed of three overlapping squares,the ground floor is entered through a pointed arch, whose bow was made of black basalt (lava stone) and white granite.Today,it is the seat of the Fondazione Giuseppe Mazzullo,a section which contains important sculptures by that talented sculptor.

Next to that beautiful construction you can admire the Municipio,the Town Hall.The original building  approximately dated the year 1700 remains the main facade on the avenue Corso Umberto, close to the Cattedrale di San Nicola (St.Nicholas Cathedral) and Piazza San Domenico (St.Dominic Square) where there is the homonym Dominican Convent which was historically one of the three former Monasteries erected in the town.

Its birth, as well as its history is tied to the Dominican friar Damiano Rosso,a descendant of the noble Altavilla family and Prince of Cerami, who decided despite a golden and rich future to be a monk and in the year 1430 he donated all his possessions to the religious order of the Dominican friars and from his former residence born that religious site.

After a few centuries,that construction back as property owned by the heirs of Damiano Rosso who built a Hotel and remained open for worship only the former Convent which was however destroyed in large part by the bombings in 1943 during the 2nd World War.A beautiful bell-tower offers great views and the former Monastery,now converted into a luxury Hotel is situated in a wonderful location with a superb terrace which offers unforgettable views towards the Volcano Etna and with stupendous views of the Mediterranean Sea.
 
Coming back to Corso Umberto and walking until Piazza Duomo (Cathedral Square) which is the oldest square of Taormina,on which besides the Cathedral and overlooking the Town Hall.In the centre stands the Fontana del Tauro the Taurus Fountain.

That work is a great example of late-Mannerist style dated the 16th century,standing on a circular base with three stoned steps,four semi-symmetrical columns supporting a pool with over a mythological sea horse from which the water comes out.

At the centre in the rounded section there are four allegoric figures,while other three mythological characters support the central basin which is crowned by the representation of a two legged centaur which became the symbol of Taormina.

Obviously do not miss a visit the Duomo di San Nicola.That Cathedral was dedicated to San Nicola di Bari (St. Nicholas of Bari) and it is also named Chiesa Madre (Mother Church).It was erected i the 13th century,built on the ruins of a small medieval Church and restored and embellished in the next century.

That stupendous Religious Temple is also nicknamed  Fortezza Cattedrale (The fortress Cathedral) for its severe and majestic Gothic aspect and it helps to make the Cathedral looks like a fortress.
Thar Religious building was erected during the reign of King Frederick III of Aragon,who at the same time commissioned the restoration of the Cathedral of Messina and due the contemporary works,the diagram of the two Churches is very similar.

The structure was developed on a simple rectangle in Latin cross with three naves.Of great interest is the side corresponding to the main entrance which was renovated in the year 1636, with a large rose window carved of Renaissance inspiration.

The ceiling has wooden beams carved in Moorish style and in the lateral aisles are placed six smaller altars.Six columns,three on each side, monolithic source of Taormina in pink marble are surmounted by capitals decorated with leaf and fish scale,supporting the nave.The Cathedral preserves valuable works of art including The Visitation a painting by Antonino Giuffre,an altarpiece panel depicting the Virgin and Child with Saints Jerome and Sebastian and Sant´Agata by Martino Montanini.

The Cathedral also hosts the Madonna Bizantina the Byzantine Virgin found in an ancient well, probably post there to safeguard against repeated invasions by the Moorish,tradition has it that there had been deposed by the angels.That is an oil painting of the palette coated with a layer of silver and semiprecious stones.Clearly of the Byzantine era,the painting was dedicated to Santa Maria dei Greci.(S.Mary of the Greeks).

 Overlooking Piazza Duomo and Corso Umberto,the street Via Fazzello reveals a massive construction called Badia Vecchia,(Old Abbey) or in Sicilian also called Badiazza accentuated look of the tower.Badia Vecchia, as well as the Palazzo dei Duchi di Santo Stefano must have been a fortress along the defencive walls.The first protected the northern side of the town,while the second section defended the southern side. Including the Gothic architecture used for that building is very similar to that palace.


The iconography and the primitive type of approach are Moorish and the remaking of adaptation as a residence of nobility is dated 14th century,with the inclusion of motifs of the Gothic style,like the sequence of oval mullioned windows.

About the name,Armando Dillon,a famous Neapolitan architect has supported the thesis that the name of Badia Vecchia is due to the fact that the construction was the residence of Mother Abbess Euphemia,well known as Princess Constance of Aragon from 1355 and in the meantime she was a regent of the Kingdom of Two Sicilies in the name of his younger brother Frederick IV.

Badia Vecchia consists in three rooms of equal size.A frieze of inlaid lava and white Syracuse stones decorated divides the first and second floors.The top of Badia Vecchia is decorated with battlements dovetail along all sides which give the building the appearance of a fortified tower.

Only later those particular buildings were turned from military fortified building to residences.Housed in the Old Abbey is the Archaeological Museum,which is a relevant exhibition displaying some important finds brought to light in a very recent period, between the years 1984 and 1998

That beautiful museum is arranged on two floors and antique objects such as sculptures,artifacts from the ancient theatre,Greek pottery, alabaster urns,a Byzantine sword found in the seabed surrounding Isola Bella
are among the most rich highlights displayed in that relevant exhibition.
.
 On the left of Piazza Duomo,on top of a wide staircase you can admire Palazzo Ciampoli (Ciampoli Palace) among the most splendid Medieval buildings erected in Taormina.Its its dating back the beginning of the 15th century.

 The coat of arms placed in the roar which surmounts the front door bears the year 1412 and a banner said, attributed to Bishop Damiano Rosso.The structure shows a  typical Catalan style,retracing the Spanish Aragonese period,with a short north elevation opens a window to the whole light with an arch which is outlined by a panel-lintel carved with scalloped lobes connected and the main facade is crowned with battlements.

In the garden,in the year 1926 was built the Palazzo Vecchio the old palace,which with its architecture, vaguely remembers that of the famous Palazzo della Signoria in Florence.Until a few years ago,Palazzo Ciampoli hosted one of the most famous clubs of Taormina,the Sesto Acuto.

 Immediately after that iconic medieval palace,walking on Corso Umberto Iº,you enter in Piazza IX Aprile (9th April Square) and Porta di Mezzo ( the Door in the middle) and you can think why that name Porta di Mezzo ? it was the place of a gateway developed with a tower in the medieval period,dated the 12th century and built as check-point and it was razed in 1676 during the French invasion.

The tower you can see today is a reconstruction dated the 17th century and concretely established in the year 1679,with a large clock,which takes its name and its geographically in the middle of the town like a point zero.

 The square is considered the Taormina Salotto "u salottu" the most elegant and fashionable lounge in the town,famous for its outdoor cafes and artists who paint portraits and beautiful coastal landscapes.From the square balcony you can admire a magnificent panorama which spans Mount Etna, the Bay of Giardini Naxos and the ruins of the ancient theatre.

 That square is also  the doorway to the Borgo Medievale the medieval borough a place where you can admire the Chiesa di Sant´Agostino a Church dedicated to St.Augustin erected in the year 1448 with the adjacent Convent built in 1530,dedicated to St.Sebastian to vote by citizens in the plague of 1486.

That building was later ceded to the Augustinians and today it hosts the Biblioteca Comunale,the Municipal Library and opposite to the other Church of the square Chiesa di San Giuseppe the Church dedicated to St.Joseph built in the 17th century,characterised by a typical facade and elegant performance pyramid tower in Byzantine style with a charming access by a beautiful balustraded staircase.

In that area you can enjoy an excellent lunch in Ristorante Ä Zammara in Via Fratelli Bandiera,15, located between Piazza IX Aprile and Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, on the right side of Corso Umberto.It is a place where you can taste typical Sicilian plates,such as Invuttini a u pisci spada ( swordfish rolls) spaghitti cu´ le sarde (spaghetti with sarde a fish from the sardines family) the risottu cu finocchiu (risotto with wild fennel)  pasta a´ Zamarra,(pasta with tomato and spinach), tagliatelli con gamberi e pistacchiu (Tagliatelle with shrimp and pistachio) and the typical Sicilian Cassata as dessert.

From Corso Umberto Iº, through a short passage corresponding to the street Via Giardinazzo you can reach La Naumachia which is one of the most important works of Roman architecture in Sicily.It is a large terrace with the tank for the aqueduct of that time and with a monumental retaining wall along 122 meters.

Built in the late Roman Empire period with a large brick facade,it is characterised by the alternation of 18 large niches with other smaller,rectangular, depending on the type of nymphs monumental front.In addition there is still the old paving blocks polygon.

The name Naumachia refers to the Greek name Naumachias,which means naval battle,improperly given to those ruins,almost certainly derives from the fact there was a surviving wall above the big tank which was used for both the water needs of the Gymnasium and as a reserve of water for the entire city.

Naumachia was also called in Roman period with that name Gymnasium  apart the section working as aqueduct,another section was developed with a rectangular building and a portico supported by columns and at the centre was placed a space for games and gymnastic exercises.

That place was mainly used for the education of young people and from that Gymnasium had to come out  the best athletes able to compete in the Olympic Games in the ancient Athens.Sicily was part of the ancient Magna Graecia and as Messina,Taranto,Catania,Siracusa,Reggio Calabria and others sent participants to the games in the Greek Capital.

 Continuing in Corso Umberto Iº you will reach reach Piazza Vittorio Emanuele,that square was the Greek Plateia Agora the heart of the city where meetings were held and a site in which were developed in different periods,markets and the most important public buildings.Its urban position is the intersection of the major roads of the Greek Tauriomenion,later named by the Romans Via Consolare Valeria (now Corso Umberto) and representing the Cardus (centre).

The famous Greek Theatre was the Decumanus,which in ancient time represented the important axis or main road.The square became the Roman Forum since the year 201.In the square opposite of Via Timeo street and Palazzo Corvaja, there was a Hellenistic Temple dating back before the 2nd century B.C,probably dedicated to Dionysus,the former leader of Siracusa which remain part of the base and the footprints of the bases of the columns.

In the Roman Imperial period,concretely in the 2nd century BC,where now stands the Church of Santa Caterina,dated 17th century,is still visible part of a Greek temple and behind the Church,there are the remains of the Roman Theatre Odeon,a small theatre built by the Emperor Octavian.The construction took as model the famous Odeon of Athens from which also took its name.

It is a semi-circular structure with a largely brick wedges and five steps and it was place for poetry readings or music performances which included exhibitions of  lyric songs or tragic representations combined with music.

Close to Piazza Vittorio Emanuele the ancient Greek Agora and Roman Forum,on the northern side were found the remains of some Roman baths dated 1st or 2nd century A.D,a monumental complex consisting in a  Frigidarium which was a pool for cold baths,a Tepidarium a bath containing tepid waters and a Caldarium a therme providing warm and hot waters.

 In the square you can admire Palazzo Corvaja (Corvaja Palace). As you know Moorish rule endured from the 9th to 11th century in Sicily and Taormina in particular stood from the year 902 to 1079.In the 11th century the Arab reinforced the town's defences by building, among other things,a tower which is part of the main body of the Palazzo Corvaja

A cube-shaped tower which reminded the Moorish civilisation of their sacred Al Ka 'bah, and that is the nut which according to the Prophet Mohamed, was the first temple erected for God by Abraham in La Mecca.The tower was extended at the end of the 13th century with the addition of the area developed moving to the left of the entrance.With that new wing of the palace was built also a staircase leading from the courtyard to the first floor.

On the landing are three magnificent panels in Siracusa stone,carved in high relief, depicting the first and the creation of Eve,while the second and third represent the Original Sin and the expulsion from the Paradise.The right wing of the building was built at the beginning of 1400 to allow the Sicilian Parliament meetings, which were held there.The first assembly was celebrated in the year 1411, in the large hall in the presence of the Queen Blanca of Navarra, regent of the Kingdom of Sicily.

For that reason the Palace was also called Palace of Parliament or also the Queen Blanca de Navarra Palace.however it takes its name by Corvaja family,one of the oldest and noblest of Taormina who has given men renowned in the local administration, both in the letters and in the judiciary organisation.

 From Piazza Vittorio Emanuele you will  reach along the way  the Greek-Roman Theatre dating from the 3th century B. C.and almost completely rebuilt and expanded in the late 1st century,during the Roman-imperial era.The Theatre of Taormina, after that of Siracusa is the Sicily's largest,a semi-circular masterpiece with a diameter of 109 meters.

It is definitely one of the most beautiful example of Greek-Roman Art and basically it sums up the two constructive styles,the Greeks derived the auditorium carved into the rock itself and adapting to the morphology of the terrain,while the Romans built their theatres above ground.It is the Roman way of conceiving the impressive and magnificent scene,as are all of Roman building structures.

The proscenium stage flanked by two parascenia is the only survivor in the entire Sicily,it was made a long and high wall motion by columns,niches for statues and three doors,the central one of which was the entrance to the palace,while the right gave the access to the reception room and the left led into the temple.

Also in the Theater of Taormina, as usual, the axis of symmetry corresponds to a distant view, in that case,the Ionian coast and Mount Etna which opens into the architectonic ensemble.The trick is to be referred to the ancient custom,linked to the theatrical technique,to establish close relationship with the architectonic composition of the landscape.

From that place is extremely valuable an archaeological point of view where you can admire all the local beauty surrounding Taormina such as the Mount Etna, the Bay of Naxos with its magnificent crystalline clear sea and Castelmola.

That beautiful monument is now the seat of Taormina Arte, the International Festival of Film, Theatre and Dance.The Theatre also hosts the Antiquarium a small exhibition space housed in the caretaker's house of the ancient building. Most of the objects found during the excavations have been transferred to relevant museums in particular to Naples,Siracusa and Messina. Among the most notable finds there are some bases of statues in marble with ancient inscriptions,carved pillars and an important marble sarcophagus.Coming back to Piazza Vittorio Emanuele,taking Corso Umberto Iº again.In a very short walk you will reach the monumental Porta Messina, part of the fortified walls and terminal of the historic centre of Taormina in its northern side.

Porta Messina was restored at the beginning of the last century,it was named when it was originally opened with the name of Porta Ferdinanda in thr year 1808 by King Ferdinand IV of Bourbon.The event is commemorated in a plaque placed at the top of the arch of the same gate.

At the end of the road,you can admire the Chiesa di San Pancrazio,a Church dedicated to St. Pancras Bishop and Martyr, Patron Saint of Taormina.Built on the ruins of the Greek temple of Jupiter Serapis,the cell wall of the temple are still visible in the southern wall of the Religious building.

The architecture is in traditional Sicilian Baroque style dated the 16th century,of great interest is the main portal and architraves made by Taormina stone,decorated with two Ionic columns on each side.

Upon entering, above the portal,you can see the organ loft and on the right there are two smaller altars surmounted by two interesting oil on canvas depicting the martyrdom of San Nicone,visible in the first, and the consecration of St. Maximus the successor of St Pancras in the second.
There are furthermore two other altars located on the left wall interspersed with a fresco depicting Tofano Cerameo, last Bishop of Taormina in the 11th century and a splendid low railing in wrought iron from the main altar full of multicoloured marble columns flanked by two like those on an exterior Ionian portal.

 At the top of the altar,you can see the images of eight angels,four on each side with a bust of God,while on the right appears a fresco depicting the martyrdom of St.Pancras.

Nearby lies a an ancient rest of the Roman Forum Lustrale a place in which were performed religious ablutions of the Eleusinian mysteriesYou finished in that point with the visit of that Church the monumental visit of Taormina retracing all the ancient Valeria Consolare Roman road or the Greek Gods path you saw many things in a walk which is less than one kilometre and all is really very close,also for that the visit although intense does not need buses or other transports.

 In Via Pirandello (next to Porta Messina) you can take the funicular cable to Mazzarò.Once there,turn on the right onto the main road, Strada Statale,the entrance to the reserve is about 200 metres away.If you want to walk,cross Via Pirandello up to the lookout Isola Bella from there,starts a path made of stairs and through them you will arrive directly to the Reserve.

It is a trail of about 2,0 kilometres but very easy and relaxing.The funicular works from 9.00 to 1.30 and it connects the centre of Taormina to the seaside resort set in Mazzarò.

The plant is of the single-cable permanent connection with two bunches of 4 cabins each with a capacity of about 680 people per hour The average number of steps recorded in a year amounted to around 850000 units,all that explains how that resort is an important place for holidays and tourism.

Visiting Isola Bella is a must.It is is a magical place,not to be missed if you are around Taormina and it is named the Gioiello dell'Ionio( the jewel of Ionian Sea), for its wild beauty.Despite the passage of man it is a site protected by the WWF, and recently declared a Nature Reserve.There you can see a wide variety of birds,such as cormorants, kingfishers,peregrine falcons and many other species.The island with a relevant initiative was totally reforested with subtropical plants of absolute value.

The result is a spectacular view to the human eyes,a kind of of Eden where a particularly lush Mediterranean vegetation and wildlife coexist with a mixture so well combined with a varied and colourful Tropical and Mediterranean  vegetation characterised by numerous shrubs and flowers very special.For its unique beauty it was once of the main sources of inspiration for famous people,first of all by many famed artists who flocked in Taormina enchanted by that marvellous scenery around them.

The town is tied to a historical episode and totally unique.It is said that King Ferdinand coming from Naples in the year 1806, impressed by the warm welcome which was given him,decided to pay homage to the town giving it the island.

In the early years of the 900 the island was purchased by a high-ranking aristocratic family until its story was not profoundly affected.The British Lady Florence Trevelyan Cacciola,settled in Taormina and after her marriage she decided to devote her attention to the island,all that also came for a great passion for plants and flowers.

The sea bed surrounding the island is simply wonderful from the naturalistic point of view if you have mask and you love snorkeling,that is a place for you of course.That stretch of sea is home of a myriad of organisms,various species of seaweed, multi-coloured fish,crustaceans of various sizes and other marine wonders.

Sometimes you can also see tunas and swordfish but not very close to the coast.Nearby is situated  Le Terrazze Ristorante Gabbiano,offering delicious and typical Sicilian cuisine,with highlights fresh fish,seafood, Penne al pomodoro con cernia (pasta with tomato and fish), the typical marinatu mistu,which  is a tray prepared with fish,squid,scampi.prawns and mussels.

Very interesting and worth a visit the Byzantine tombs.They are are visible along the top of the street Via Pirandello,outside the ancient walls near the area on which was developed in modern times the Convent School and the Institute of the Missionary Sisters of Mary.The complex consists in 50 tombs, built on two floors in a very thick wall,during the Moorish domination was a necropolis, a place of worship and veneration and not only a cemetery.

 Do not miss a visit to Villa Comunale e Giardini Pubblici,the Town Park and Public Gardens named after the Duke of Cesaró.It comes from the donation, made in the late '20s, by the family Trevelyan Cacciola.

Among the valuable woody scenery with rare plants and exceptionally beautiful, runs an avenue of trees dedicated to the fallen in the wars.Other features are the Chinese pagoda-style turrets,developed with an use of stained glass and bricks and surrounded by volcanic pumice wanted by the English aristocrat Florence Trevelyan who apart that convinced ornithologists to come to visit that place delighted by the enchanting views from those towers and ideal site to study the birds.

You are in Sicily so there it is tradition in the afternoon to enjoy a a typical Granita con Brioche, so you can sit in Bam Bar in Via di Giovanni,45,it is very close to the Naumachia,for many people is considered the best Granita in Taormina and all homemade,you are in the island of oranges and lemons,but you can choose among many tastes,all is totally genuine,100%.

Castelmola,Castermula ( in Sicilian) it is the natural balcony over Taormina,with the majestic Etna villages clinging on its slopes,the Ionian coast,Capo Sant´Alessio and the Strait of Messina.Castelmola is one of the most beautiful borghi (medieval districts) of Italy.

Originally it was inhabited by ancient Siculi the first Sicilians,it was also the ancient Greek Mylai, the natural acropolis of Tauromenium floor of the ancient necropolis of Cocolonazzo.Destroyed by Moorish in the year 902,it was rebuilt by the Normans in the current site and used as a prison.

There you can admire the castle ruins remain of the massive Norman walls although it is very difficult to determine the exact date of construction.The only thing certain,on the building of that defencive complex in a site which started to have a relevant importance since the ancient the Greek civilisation and also in the 10th century under Byzantine rule.Engraved in the marble plaque on the facade which reads: This castle was built under Constantino, patrician and strategist of Sicily.

Despite that,presumed a place in medieval times,most historians agree with the oldest building in Roman times.In the year 1334, under the reign of King Pedro of Aragon,the area was surrounded by walls and made inaccessible,used as a fortress and prison too.Another historical reference comes from the emblem at the top of the entrance depicting the words: "Loyal to His Majesty's Castle of 1578 years".

The picturesque position of the castle still conveys to the viewer from its walls and it transmits more intense emotions during the allure of falconry shows which are held in the ruins.There you can enjoy a relaxing walk in a peaceful village and tasting and a typical Sicilian natural drink the famous Vino alle Mandorle called in Sicilian "U ´Blandanino" invented by Don Vincenzo Blandano.

It is an almond wine,made by fine grapes,secret essences and Sicilian almonds.The recipie is "nu secretu" (a secret) by it is all homemade by natural Sicilian ingredients almonds,raisins,spices,orange blossom and jasmine.

So during your Castelmola visit taste it in Caffé San Giorgio in Piazza San Antonino,opened by Mr.Blandano. Mr.Blandano.That Cafe was visited by famous people like Rockeller,Rolls Royce,Winston Churchill,Greta Garbo,Sofia Loren and many others.

From there in a clear day you can admire a fantastic view until Calabria, admiring Villa San Giovanni and Reggio Calabria, the Etna Vulcan and Taormina Gulf. You can have a lunch in Trattoria il Vicolo, in via Pio IX,26 the cuisine is typically Sicilian and the restaurant is also Pizzeria.

 Taormina in different periods became a place of residence of the elite nomenclature,initially coming mainly from England and Germany.German writer Johann Wolfgang von Goethe was a declared Taormina lover,he cited his trip to Taormina in his masterpiece Italienische Reise (Italian Trip) but also many others decided to be frequent guests or to live in that divine place.



For a period as the photographer and Baron Wilhelm Von Gloeden,the painters Otto Geleng and Jean Houel,the writer Friedrich Nietzsche who wrote during his stay in the Sicilian town Also sprach Zarathustra: Ein Buch für Alle und Keinen (A Book for All and None) spent in that Sicilian Eden long stays.

Regular guests were David Herbert Lawrence English novelist author of Lady Chatterley's Lover English writer Daphne Phelps lived for 50 years in Taormina and Icelandic writer Halldór Laxness,Nobel prize for literature in 1955 lived for some years in that magnificent resort.

Other prominent figures as Richard Wagner Oscar Wilde,Sigmund Freud,Thomas Mann visited several times Taormina,including it was a favourite destination of a long list of nobles and aristocrats such as Juliana of the Netherlands, the Reals of Sweden and Denmark, King William II of Germany, Tsar Nicholas II, King Edward VII, Prince Vittorio Emanuele Savoy, Princess Amelia of Portugal.

The charm of that Sicilian diamond also attracted as regular visitors such as Tennessee Williams, Truman Capote, the painters Henry Faulkner and Salvador Dali, the American billionaires Rockfeller and Gloria Vanderbilt.

Also stars of Cinema and Music such as Ava Gardrner,Romy Schneider,Marlene Dietrich, Rita Hayworth, Joan Crawford,Cary Grant,Orson Welles,Marlon Brando,Frank Sinatra,Liz Taylor,Richard Burton could not resist to the enchanting and unique call of that resort and they decided in many occasion to land on the banks of that resort of the Ionian Sea to live splendid stays,enjoying the fascination of that place.

There was among that endless list of celebrities also Greta Garbo.The divine Swedish actress visited Taormina several times under a false name as Hariette Brown,often guest of a German dietitian who lived in a great villa not far from Castelmola,and the star from Stockholm fell in love at first sight with Sicily and she continued to come back for about 30 years.

Also other important people became "abitué" and they decided to fix Taormina in their special agenda enjoying sunny holidays such as John Bonjovi (his original family is from Sciacca)Michael Cage Coppola and Jim Kerr.English Simply Reds singer Mick Hucknall had a house there,just like Andrea Bocelli.

The town never stopped be a place of reflection to be part of one of the main tourist exaltation of Sicily.The resort hosts every year numerous events,especially during summer season.The Teatro Antico is the venue for concerts classical and light music,opera and other shows which often broadcast in radio and television media.

Taormina Arte is the place which hosts the famed Taormina Film Festival.The famed and notorious Rassegna Cinematografica di Messina and Taormina.Born in the year 1960 and for twenty years crowning the winner with the prestigious David di Donatello Awards.

That famed event is yearly attended by famous personalities from all around the world,within that so important appointment are given the prestigious Nastri d'Argento (Silver ribbons) awards assigned by film critics.

The Pop Music Festivalbar Pop Music,since 1983 is one of the most significant events which take place in the area of Taormina Arte,the cultural Institution which is responsible for organising the review of music, theatre and dance,considered one of the most important in Italy.Since 2005, Taormina Arte also organises in October Giuseppe Sinopoli Festival in honour to a representative figure who died in the year 2001 and who was  for years the artistic director of Taormina Arte.

Taormina has a vibrant nightlife  Déjà Vu Cocktailbar in Piazza Garibaldi,2 is an excellent bar to enjoy a wide variety of eclectic drinks,La Giara in Vico la Floresta,1 is a Disco Restaurant,excellent combination if you want to eat and dance and Panasia Beach located in Taormina Mare Riviera dello Spisone in Via Nazionale is a trendy place.

Taormina Mare is a beautiful place with a terrace with a wonderful view on Mazzaró Bay,excellent pasta, fish and seafood, typical Sicilian and Mediterranean cuisine,a wide range of wine and desserts You can continue to Re di Bastoni in corso Umberto Iº,120,it is a great place to listen live music and offering excellent drinks.The nearest Giardini Naxos offers the lively disco Marabú in Via Lanuzzo an alternative to the lively night to combine something more there in a very lively place.

You can easily reach Taormina from Catania Airport Vincenzo Bellini Fontanarossa which is situated at approximately 55,0 kilometres from the resort,from where there are buses every hour and from Catania by the company Etna Bus in just 40/45 minutes you will be the resort, That bus company service connects Catania airport to Taormina daily and viceversa.

In Taormina you can breathe the air of an eternal spring,a sort of garden which is a perpetual hymn to the most enchanting Mediterranean atmosphere and flowers bloomed all year,the the perfect place for those looking for unforgettable holidays also for that that nickname pillar of heaven is probably the most right nickname a divine place as that Ionian coastal town could receive.

If you want to fully appreciate its beauty,the most indicated seasons are spring and autumn,when the air is warm and fragrant,summer is high season a very busy destination.

Taormina is famous worldwide for its incredible beauty,historical and archaeological heritage and the friendly people and a perfect location to reach the major cities and historic sites of the island.Its magic atmosphere is something absolutely irresistible and once you tried that it is so easy to decide to plan to come back very soon.

For all that Taormina is a tourist destination of immense prestige,it offers the visitors a,romantic,charming exciting and sensual atmosphere.Taormina ie accussí"(Taormina is that),Sicily is a beautiful Mediterranean island "na terra du suli"(a land of sun) and that centre sang by Pindaro is definitely one if its diamonds under that sun which always reflects and shows its unique charm.

Francesco Mari


Reccommeded Hotels in Taormina 

Hotel Villa Carlotta 
Hotel Villa Ducale
Hotel Villa Schuler 
Hotel el Jebel 
The Ashbee Hotel 
Hotel Villa Belvedere
Hotel San Domenico Palace
Hotel Imperiale
Grand Hotel Timeo by Orient Express
Recommended Restaurants in Taormina 

Ristorante A Zammara 
Trattoria Il Vicolo 
Ristorante Al Giardino
Ristorante L´Arco Dei Cappuccini
Ristorante La Piazzetta
Ristorante Anfora 
Trattoria Il Baccanale

Lugano | Montecarlo of Switzerland on a Magical Lake.


 Lugano is a splendid and great destination,nicknamed the Montecarlo of Switzerland,it lies on a magical lake with the same name,major centre of the Canton of Ticino, 8th Swiss city by population,it is one of the most visited centres of the country.

With  approximately 60.000 inhabitants but with an agglomeration extra radius which reaches about 140,000,situated an altitude of 273 metres,pretty close to the Italian border,the city is dominated by scenic mountains,the Bré and  the Monte San Salvatore (Saint Saviour Mountain) which form a picturesque frame around that stupendous waters around the Lake Ceresio (other name of Lake Lugano).

The strategic location in the heart of the European Continent,makes that city as a sort of bridge between Northern Europe and the Mediterranean area.

Considered since long time ago a World Class destination,Lugano has a  very particular and special charm with a very strong identity but at the same time it is an amazing mixture of Swiss class,elegance and sophistication and a touch of charming Italian style,all that gives it a captivating and enchanting profile.

Those magnificent shores lining the lake with impressive and unique views,its historic centre in typical Lombard architectonic style and very easy to explore than ks to its compact development are a great incentive thanks also to its mild climate to chose that destination all year.

The official language of the Canton is Italian with a great affinity in accent  to the nearest cities of Lombardy Como,Varese and Milan.The historical links and intercultural interchanges which have centuries of history with those Italian cities continued and continues today.

The mutual co operations furthermore increased thanks to the business and cooperation in several projects also in the last years thanks to new initiatives and the creation of the Euroregion Insubria,related in a wide range of areas,University,research,science,cultural heritage,events and common development of tourism activities and economy.

Lugano is a city pretty loved by Italians and a famous Italian singer,Ivan Graziani many years ago dedicated a song to Lugano in one of his most successful songs with the title Lugano Addio (Bye Bye Lugano).

 That magnificent centre has always been a first class business and commercial centre and so it is today.The city is the third financial centre of Switzerland and it is home of about one hundred banks.Lugano's geographic location with its mild temperatures all year combined to that magical lake which offers with its colours in all the seasons a image which could be immortalised as symbol for every tourist destination.

All that is a more than special incentive combined to its famous Casino,elegant and luxurious Hotels,a calendar of several cultural events of international relevance made that the Swiss city was visited by the most distinguished International aristocracy and also Jet Set since long time ago.

Famous artists actors,singers,politic figures in different periods have always been attracted by the charm of that Swiss centre which thanks to all the mentioned features has always been linked to that famous Principality of the French Riviera,which has in Montecarlo one of its highlights and the several aspects in common determined that title or name to the Swiss city "the Montecarlo of Switzerland".

The city is a great place to enjoy several activities such as shopping,leisure,relax and that combination of trade and tourism makes it an incredible vibrant place where also bohemian artists and musicians perform with live shows in cafes,clubs and cabarets venues.That city of the Canton of Ticino is in addition a focus of international affairs,which has however been able to preserve a stylish elegance of a busy centre on a human scale,sometimes sophisticated inside but with limits and never reaching excesses.

Historically,that Swiss city has always linked to iconic figures of the most famed artistic and social spheres,the beautiful Hotel Splendide Royale built in the year 1888,it has often welcomed famous people such as Maria Queen of Romania,Victor Emmanuel of Savoy King of Italy,the former American President George Bush,the Italian actress Sophia Loren and the unforgettable cinema director Federico Fellini apart other prominent artists such as the Spanish painter Pablo Picasso and the French painter Marc Chagall who found in the city a perfect place to spend enjoyable times in a place which was very special for all them.

In the course of centuries and developed as one of the most important cultural European centres,as relevant meeting place,refuge or exile for many famous characters in the 19th and 20th centuries.initially it housed the Italian Republicans, including the brothers Ciani and Giuseppe Mazzini, then the Communards or international French Benoît Malon the Russian Mikhail Bakunin and the Italian writers Ugo Foscolo and Carlo Cattaneo

Including the Literature Nobel Prize Eugenio Montale during his stay on the shore of the Lake Ceresio enjoyed to live there where he worked and published a collection of poems,named Finisterre in the year 1943 during the period of the dictatorship in Italy.Also another Nobel laureate in literature the German Hermann Hesse spent long time in Lugano fascinated by its relaxing atmosphere and climate.

Although Lugano is not too huge,that cosmopolitan image never stop to be alive, many important international personalities decided to fix their residences there or they live today,increasing the name and the popularity of that Swiss centre and the list is pretty long but it is enough to mention the Baron Thyssen-Bornemisza who lived there and used a splendid mansion called Villa Favorita on the shores of the lake to display some paintings of his extraordinary collection (now in Madrid) ,

In more recent times  the English singers George Harrison,(former Beatles Star) and Robert Palmer Grammy Award-winning, American saxophonist Julian Edwin Adderley known as Cannonball Adderley.
The Italian theatre director Giorgio Strehler,the famed singer Mina,human rights specialist Dick Marty and the talented architect Mario Botta established their loved residences on the shore of that magical lake and not long time ago also the Australian Megan Gale decided to have a villa there,all that explain you what is that place in all its essence and reality.

 Archaeological finds have shown that the area was settled many centuries ago by Etruscans and Celtic populations,the first coming from Tuscany,before to move to Swiss territory settled with colonies in the nearest Lombardy,while the second are probably related to the Celtic Ligurian populations and other Celts who occupied the areas on the shores of the nearest Lake Como which is situated at a very short distance from Lugano.

The first traces of the existence of an official community can be traced to the year 875,date in which was recorded the first document which speaks of Sancti Laurentii in Luano.The construction of the Basilica of San Lorenzo later named Cathedral in the year 1888 dating back the second half of the 11th century.

In the 9th century the former settlement was part of the the Bishopric of Como which eventually extended its rights in the region and the relationships with the capital of Lario have always been very strong also after their separation.

 The name Lugano derives from the Latin word Lucus which means forest ad which appoints to a
 a settlement which apparently was characterised by its proximity to a forest.Despite that version there are other several suppositions by historians and experts and one is derived from those former Celtic settlers who had among their Gods Lug, protector of the waters,

Another hypothesis is a Latin acronym of Legio,corresponding to the Legio V Gaunica Auxiliares,an auxiliary division of the Roman Empire during the colonisation of the territory while the most bizarre version have been formulated on the meaning of the four letters which appear on Luga  in the Coat of Arms of the City.

The Coat of Arms contains evidence in the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, where the sign is carved on a stack of holy water and two bells.The colours are documented by a parchment dated 1588, visible in Altdorf's museum,it is a testimonial issued by the City to Sebastian Beroldingen of Uri where the sign of the Valley of Lugano shows the silver cross on a red field.The Palace of Altdorf Beroldingen appeared not only as a weapon of Lugano borough but also the general community and it was destroyed by fire in the year 1799.

On the facade of the Church of Loreto is painted in a Renaissance city Coat of Arms and on that one of the Palazzo Civico of Lugano,the architect Moraglia, during the decorations and placing the Coat of Arms of the City replaced the red background with the bipartite red and blue: the colours of the Canton.However, they are simply an abbreviation of the name of the city itself, and not the initials of an abbreviation

All that  is proved by the emblem of the ancient Parish and confirmed by documents dated 18th October 1208 and 14th November 1209 whose original, now unavailable, were preserved in the Monastery of Saint Ambrose in Milan.

Subject of continuous disputes between the eternal enemies Milan and Como since medieval times that centre and its Parishes moved under rule of the Swiss in the year 1513,a rule which perpetuated  until the year 1798, when, under pressure from the European upheaval,applied it was granted independence and autonomy by joining the Swiss Confederation.Lugano since its incorporation under Swiss influence was the home of a Big Fair,one of the largest cattle fairs in Europe started in the year 1515 and continued with great prestige until the early 20th century,well known in a big part of Europe.

 The history of the urban development of the City, is subdivided in four phases.The medieval lasts until the end of the 700,with the shift from the new regime between the years 1798 and1847.The social scene changed and the city expanded beyond its traditional urban aspect limited by the gates which were pulled down.From 1900 to 1950 the centre of the Canton of Ticino experienced significant changes due to a further population growth and economic incentives which actually radically change the structure of the historic centre and the entire neighbourhoods.

The transition from medieval to modern city is the development of the tourism during the second half of the 19th century and the protagonists of that transformation were the brothers Ciani and the famous  establishment of the Hotel Park.

With the opening of that structure to ramp up tourism,promoting the only resources available at that time were the lake,the magnificent landscapes and an immaculate nature.In just a few decades, in an extraordinary entrepreneurial impulse and then with the opening of the Gotthard Railway in the year 1882, the local Tourism Industry could complement and diversify its proposals with the opening of new Hotels of international prestige,also linked to the navigation along the basin of the Ceresio reaching other resorts,including on the Italian side of the lake,Porlezza and Porto Ceresio are some examples ( I wrote posts about them).

The development with a further and additional number of tourism infrastructures in support of the city and the region,such as completion of the aqueduct and electric lighting,roads,trams and funiculars were excellent means perfectly linked to the Hotel Industry created there and all that resulted particularly attractive for two special markets such as Germany and Great Britain which with  a rich and cultivated high social class found in that centre a perfect destination.

The tourism knew hard times during the crisis of the 30s and during the two World Wars but subsequently managed to adapt and establish itself as one of the main tourist engines of the entire Canton and with a consecration as a dynamic city in Switzerland and with a high reputation in all Europe.

 An excellent point to start your visit is from the Cattedrale di San Lorenzo the Cathedral dedicated to St Lawrence situated next to the Lugano Tlp Stazione the Lugano Funicular.Representing the Mother Church of the Diocese it was founded probably in the early Middle Ages,in the year 818 and  it became a Parish Church while in the 11th century and concretely in the year 1078 it was transformed in  a Collegiate.

Since 1888 it is a Cathedral and seat of Lugano Bishophery,a significant monument of the early medieval era.Originally erected in Romanesque style with a central nave and two lateral aisles,the main facade is considered one of the most beautiful of the Lombard Renaissance period defined " facciata a vento"it is a particular style where the facade is higher than the top of the aisles and with windows opened to the sky.If you visited Southern Lombardy and particularly the cities of Pavia,Crema,Lodi and Northern Emilia Romagna,in particular presents in the areas of Piacenza,Fidenza  you will find in several Religious buildings many architectonic elements in common.

The style anyway in its proportions and size,architectonic lines and details is related to the famous Certosa di Pavia the Pavia Chartreuse.Inside you can admire a large number of valuable frescoes and relevant Baroque decorations.The highlights are definitely the Chapel of Santa Maria delle Grazie (Our Lady of Grace), a beautiful representation of baroque decorations with in he main altarpiece,frescoes and a marble tabernacle by brothers Rodari Maroggia dated the 16th century.

A short distance from that splendid masterpiece you can admire another one the Chiesa di Santa Maria degli Angioli (St. Mary of the Angels Church).Originally it was part of a Franciscan Monastery founded in the year 1490.The exterior is very sober while the interior consists in a nave with a truss roof,flanked on the right by four Chapels and an outstanding choir which is divided by a partition.The main attractions are undoubtedly the great frescoes by Bernardino Luini a Leonardo Da Vinci pupil and nicknamed The Raphael of Lombardy (I wrote a post about Saronno if you are interested where that artist made a great work) .

In the first Chapel on the left wall,there is the first Luini fresco representing a Madonna and Child with St. John the Baptist,painted in the year 1530, in the second there is another depicting Saint Francis by Petrini and dated 1728 and there are many other masterpieces by Bramantino a talented painter from Milan School In the 4th chapel, known by the name of the lawyer Camuzio Lugano buried there,visible are the superb frescoes depicting the Adoration of the Magi, Flight into Egypt and other beautiful which are represented in the vaults.On the wall of the partition,you can see a large fresco of the Crucifixion and the background scenes of the Passion,that great work is the latest by Bernardino Luini .Prophets are depicted on the pillars and partitions.

On the left wall of the nave,the Last Supper was removed from a wall of the refectory of the convent,made by Luini inspired by the famous Supper by Leonardo in Santa Maria delle Grazie church in Milan and UNESCO patrimony site.

In front of the Church you can see the Hotel International au Lac a prestigious hospitality establishment with a beautiful panoramic waterfront and in its proximity the enchanting promenade showing you all the charm of that marvellous lake.

On the right side of that captivating walkway there is Via Nassa,the shopping main street of the city,a paradise for shopping lovers and for those who like window stroll so if you are interested to take a look you can find many captivating articles by the most relevant High Fashion Designers from Versace to Cartier, but also Hermes,Zegna and many others.In that street you can also admire the Chiesa di San Carlo Borromeo Borromeo,(St,Charles Borromeo Church) erected in the 17th century in Baroque style.

Close to that glamorous artery in the square Piazza Rezzonico, you will notice a fountain and some buildings decorated with Baroque details and you can come in the adjacent and iconic Piazza della Riforma (Reform Square) where you are in the heart of the old city.

The Famous Lugano Jazz Festival takes place every year in that beautiful place and there you can also see the Palazzo Civico (Civic Palace) a building dated the year 1844 developed in Neoclassical style by the architect Giacomo Moraglia from Milan.The pediment in the main facade is a typical classic Greek revival where you can note some statues representing Religion, Concord, Strength and Freedom.,all them are a work by the sculptor Francesco Somaini.

In the year 1815 that building was ready to be the seat of the Cantonal Government.The Swiss Constitution of the year 1814 decided that the three most important cities of the Canton such as Lugano, Locarno and Bellinzona alternatively every six years had to be the capital of the Canton,in addition to its history,that palace was also used as Hotel and since the year 1890 it became the home the Town Council.

If you come in the Palace on the left you can see a statue of Spartacus,the famous leader of the slaves in the Rome servile revolution a work by the sculptor Vincenzo Vela.

During the Middle Ages,the name of the square was Piazza Grande (Great Square) it has always been an important meeting point for locals,who call it simply la Piazza (The square).Surrounding Piazza Riforma there is a good number of 19th century buildings which form the backdrop of that captivating corner of Lugano,such as HSBC, housed in the former department store Milliet & Werner and the Bank of the Svizzera Italiana.

That square,apart its beauty is also a great place for tourists to enjoy a great lunch or dinner,with the famous Caffè Federale, the oldest and most traditional Cafe in Lugano with the original furnishings in carved wood on the premise where you can taste a traditional Fondue moitié-moitié,made with cheese produced by the best dairies in the Canton of Ticino and other local culinary specialities.

In Riva Giocondo Albertolli the long promenade next to the lake you can see Palazzo Albertolli which is one of the first Neoclassical buildings erected in the cityToday the palace hosts the Swiss Bank Wegelin and you can enjoy there a pleasant walk in the Parco Civico,the Municipal Park, admiring the splendid Villa Ciani a beautiful mansion erected in the middle of a magnificent green space.

It it is a great composition of beautiful Italian Garden and home of major exhibitions since 1933,site of the Municipal Collection of Fine Arts and it also houses  temporary exhibitions.Before the construction of the Villa there was in that area a castle,stronghold of the Dukes of Milan ,built by Ludovico Sforza in the year 1498 and destroyed by the Swiss in 1517.

In the 17th century, the palace became a property of the noble Swiss-German family Von Beroldingen but in the year 1840 it was purchased by the brothers Giacomo and Filippo Ciani,famous Italian bankers from Milan and the architectonic aspect was transformed by the architect Luigi Clericetti,demolishing much of the existing construction.The current image of cubic sober neoclassical style bears a lookout on the ridge of the roof while inside,the main highlights are a beautiful staircase and rooms with frescoes ceilings of the 19th century.

From 1915 to 1967 the mansion became a Historic Museum and from 1932 until the year 2007 it became the City Museum of Fine Arts and received the Antonio Caccia Foundation Art Collection.In the Park you can also see other buildings as the Palazzo dei Congressi (the Congress Palace)  a modern construction,which is an important site linked to many cultural activities and the Biblioteca Cantonale (the Library of the Canton) containing archives,books and history of architecture and documents about Canton of Ticino.

Next to the park you can see the famous Lugano Casino,one of the sites which also linked for its popularity  Lugano to Montecarlo.Very famous for its 350 slots machines,American and French roulette,26 table games of poker,black jack,and many other games.The Casino also provides 5 bars and 2 elegant restaurants upstairs.That place is so notorious for its stylish and chic service,elegant lounges and its lively atmosphere.

Also close to the Parco Civico in a corner in Rivetta Tell,which is a sort of prolongation of Riva Albertolli you can see a sculpture depicting Wilhelm Tell,the Swiss legendary hero of the 13th and 14th centuries,a relevant work by the sculptor Vincenzo Vela.

Do not miss to take a look to Piazza Indipendenza (Independence Square) a place in which you can see the Monumento all´Indipendenza del Ticino the Monument of Ticino Independence.

It was built in occasion of the commemoration of the centennial of the battle between Cisalpine troops and Lugano volunteers, in the year 1798 and also celebrating the end of the bailiwick of the Tessin with the beginning of equality in its relations with the other cantons.The monument consists in an obelisk, dated the 19th century by an unknown and it is also called L´albero Della Libertá,the Freedom Tree.

Very interesting if you are fond about art is the  Museo Cantonale a splendid exhibition which mainly includes works of the 19th and 20th centuries, with few but significant inroads in previous centuries, documenting some of the major figures of local artists also active the Italian territory such as Discepoli, Mola and Petrini.

That museum also includes works by Italian artists and from other countries who have had a major role in the history of modern art and contemporary, like, just to name a few, Degas, Renoir, Pissarro, Orozco, and Dijkstra, among others.

 Between the streets Via Canova and Via Pessina which correspond to  the oldest Lugano core you can admire a complex of five buildings,three of which overlook the lake, designed by the Italian architect Bongi for Battista Gargantini,a famous  entrepreneur returned to Switzerland from Argentina.The construction of residential,administrative and sales,took place in stages between the years 1912 and 1933,they are constructions with rounded corners and front porches on the lake,characterised by a very eclectic and creative architectural language,with a prevalence of Neo-Baroque elements,which simplifies gradually in Modernist Art Deco key,one of the most relevant is undoubtedly Palazzo Gargantini.


Adjacent Via Canova there is a small square called Piazzetta San Rocco with a beautiful example of local Baroque style,lies the Chiesa di San Rocco.That Church dedicated to St.Roque was erected on the site of an earlier Religious Temple dedicated to San Biagio (St.Blaise).

Built in the year 1349 with a reconstruction which began in the year 1528, interrupted almost immediately,  it was revived in the year 1580.At the beginning of the 17th century and exactly in the year1602 the Bishop of Como Feliciano Ninguarda officiated the new rite of consecration.

Developed on a rectangular plan and completed by the choir of the Brotherhood,which is dated the 18th century,the architectonic style shows interesting details and the traditional work of that period which had the philosophy to create new lines combined to pretty austere colours.The bell tower was completed in the year 1723 and the Neo-Baroque facade was completed in the year 1910 preserving the 18th century portal,a work by the architect Paolo Zanini.

In Corso Pestalozzi there is  the oldest house of Lugano,the Piccionaia (house of pigeons) and it is a rare example of civil Renaissance building,dated the late 15th century.Probably built using the bottom of a tower,the building features a terracotta cornice and corbels wolf teeth and painted with a decorative band at the height of the second floor

It was elevated to a plane and decorated with a frieze under the eaves of Renaissance garlands,ribbons and pigeons and some elements were added later to the east and west sides.The building was restored and largely rearranged in the years 1962 and 1989.On the right in the pedestrian square Piazza Dante you can see a Church the Chiesa di San Antonio Abate dedicated to St.Anthony the Abbott,erected in Baroque style containing in its interior relevant works by some artists from the Canton of Ticino and Lombardy.

A relaxing walk in Belvedere Gardens is another must when you are in Lugano.Along that lakeside promenade,you will reach a beautiful garden with camellias,magnolias,many subtropical plants, modern art monuments adorning the park with a superb panoramic view of Lugano Gulf.

Near that green splendid space do not miss to take a look to Villa Saroli,a splendid aristocratic mansion. Before Saroli family owned that splendid residence,it was known as Villa Enderlin,after the family who built it in the year 1904 commissioned to the architect Giuseppe Pagani.The building was originally developed in Neo-Gothic style which changed after some restorations,it has a magnificent garden with an an impressive flora of evergreen magnolias,silver cedars,palms and valuable conifers.

Lugano is also an important city about international events and in 1956,the city hosted the first edition of  Eurovision Song Contest,while the famed Lugano Festival  runs during April and May, followed by the related Progetto Martha Argerich,a talented Argentinian pianist,an event which takes place in June while July is the month of the famous Jazz Festival.

Despite the other Swiss city of Montreaux (I wrote a post about that Swiss emblematic place) is probably the Queen of Jazz in Switzerland and among the most celebrated sites protagonist of those events linked to that kind of music and with an International importance,Lugano became some years later a new mecca of Jazz with an annual Spring Festival which attracts great artists from around the world.

 Since its inception numerous famous artists performed and perform at the festival and it is enough to mention some iconic names such as as Miles Davis, Ray Charles, BB King, Dizzy Gillespie, and Bobby McFerrin practically the elite in that kind of music.All them honoured and so glad to come to Lugano delighting several fans.The Blues-to-Bop Festival is another appointment  celebrated between late August and early September turning the city in a magnificent place rich of activities as thousands crowd the streets and squares for free open-air concerts.

 If Music events are undoubtedly some of the great highlights of the city,there is also space for other relevant appointment in other specific areas as international sporting events.The The IAAF World Race Walking Cup Gran Premio Citta Di Lugano is a European Athletic competition with athletes coming from all over the world.They compete for substantial prizes in a 20 kilometres race walk,which is an Olympic competition and many national records have been set there.


Since 2003,Lugano hosts the prestigious Swiss International Holiday Exhibition an event which transforms it as a Capital of tourism welcoming thousands of visitors from around the world.Prix Mobius International sponsored by the City and the Faculty of Communication Sciences is another brilliant chance to learn more about multimedia products made by publishers in the area.

The Swiss city has one of the most important American College in Europe the Franklin College with a prestigious fame all around the World,making it one of the favourite colleges to study abroad for many young students.

 One of the most famous places close to the city is is Paradiso (Paradise) a municipality considered as a sort of prolongation of Lugano (I wrote a post about that place if you are interested)  in that town there are many Luxury Hotels,such as Hotel Victoria au Lac,Hotel Du Lac, Eden, Holiday Inn,Bellevue, the famous Splendid Royal among others.Paradiso became a popular and famous holiday resort after the opening of the Gotthard Railway in the year 1882 and the funicular railway up Monte San Salvatore opened in the year 1890.

In Lugano you can enjoy a beautiful cruise on that magical lake,generally the cruise starts in the morning at 9.20 at Lugano Boats Cruise Harbour with a duration approximately of three hours and it is recommended to be at the harbour 30 minutes before the departure.

You can book it,choosing different options such as Cruise + Swissiminiatur or Cruise + Swissminiatur & Scherrer Park ) or also with Monte Generoso and many others including an excursion to Porto Ceresio or Ponte Tresa in Italy on the Italian coastline.

During the cruise you will have the opportunity to have an overview of Switzerland with Swissminiatur ,(I wrote a postabout that attraction park) an exciting place and an attraction,generally you have about one hour of time to visit that complex and then to retake the boat continuing the cruise coming back to Lugano.

Swissminiatur was opened in the yar 1959 and It is a miniature park located on a small centre on the lake called Melide surrounded by several charminf mounts such as Monte Generoso,Monte San Salvatore and Monte San Giorgio and not long time ago declared a Natural Heritage Site by UNESCO.

Italian influence is also found in local cuisine with its character of Lombardy along with the local fine wines.It is very suggested to try the typical restaurants called Crotti,local taverns with traditional furniture and rustic details,reflecting the soul of the most genuine Canton of Ticino .

The traditional Minestrone,the Risotto which is another classic speciality prepared in several styles with fresh mushrooms,cheeses,herbs,sausages and also with fish in particular with Pesce Persico.

The fish is present apart Pesce Persico with Fritture Miste (mixed fried lake fish),Alborelle and Pesce in Carpione.

The production of delicious cheeses such as Grottino,Stella Alpina,Zincarlin,Formaggella,Sciumudin and many others are another culinary highlight,there is also as in other Swiss Cantons the tradition to prepare the famous Fondue and Raclette and the cheese is also an ingredient of the Polenta,prepared with cheeses and butter,with mushrooms but also accompanying other plates as Salsicce in Umido,(sausages in sauce),beef stews as Spezzatini di Manzo o Vitello (cubes of beef or veal meat cooked in sauce) or Brasati (slices of beef cooked with vegetables.

There is also a big variety of excellent local homemade salami ,a cured Pancetta (bacon),homemade salami and sausages as the traditional Luganiga and a delicious local Mortadella are other highlights


The most famous drink is wine,especially red,you are in a land of selected Merlot grapes in the last 20 years well known also abroad.There other local Cabernet Franc,Pinot Noir,Gamaret,Cabernet Sauvignon,Gamaret and Bondola all fine wines of sublime and smooth taste,very versatile and with body,the vineyards of the Canton thanks a mild climate and a fertile soil,produce superb grapes which have all the properties in colour and compounds to make products very appreciated.

Lugano Agno Airport despite its not too big operates with some important Airlines and in the last decades it increased its business,growing up a lot in terms of number of flights,furthermore there is also a shuttle bus service from Milan -Italy as valid and alternative option.

When you are in Lugano it is very easy to visit the city by public transport managed by the TPL SA which offers bus lines in the urban area while ARL SA Company manages the bus network for the suburbs linking Lugano to other destinations and with the rest of the Canton are also insured by the system's S-Bahn in Canton Ticino.International connections with Italy and over-Gotthard are guaranteed by the Swiss Federal Railways.

The city is very involved in major new projects aimed at encouraging the establishment of new businesses and improving the infrastructure used to culture and leisure,it also provided are numerous improvements the field of transport services and connection with the construction of Alptransit, the speed railway line linking Milan and Lugano Airport and the hub of Milan Malpensa Airport.

Lugano is a city full of charm,very well organised and ready to satisfy every kind of demand,a destination for cultural tourism,congresses,events and relax.Its high quality of services and proposals are a mecca for every tourist who wants to spend great holidays or a splendid short break on the shore of a magical lake.

That centre which is nicknamed the Montecarlo of Switzerland  in one of the most charming Swiss cities and planning a trip or holidays visiting that place is something unique because Lugano with all its charm and splendour conquers every visitor.

Francesco Mari
 uk.linkedin.com/in/francescomaritravel/


Recommended Hotels in Lugano (Including the area of Paradiso with Hotels suggested in Paradiso post)



Hotel Dante Center Swiss Quality
Hotel Walter Au Lac
Villa Sassa Residence & SPA
Gran Hotel Villa Castagnola
Hotel Lido Seegarten
 Hotel Villa Principe Leopoldo & Spa
Hotel Splendide Royale
Hotel Bellevue Au Lac
Hotel De La Paix
Grand Hotel Eden 
Hotel Victoria Au Lac

 www.lugano-tourism.ch
 lugano.arounder.com
www.hotel-luganodante.com
www.walteraulac.ch
www.villasassa.ch
www.villacastagnola.com
 www.lugano-tourism.ch

Positano | Dream Holidays in the Divine Queen of the Amalfi Coast.


Positano is as a romantic melody,a charming picture of Italy,a captivating and beautiful coastal town,ideal place to spend  dream holidays,admiring the stunning beauty of the Divine Queen of that enchanting place called Amalfi Coast.

Declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO,Positano is located just 53,0 kilometres south of the city of Naples,the colours of the Tyrrhenian sea and the picturesque natural landscapes are absolutely sublime at that latitude as are simply unique and the views from its promontory overlooking a magnificent poetic gulf,all stunning highlights of such paradise.

Situated on the shores of the Gulf of Salerno,along with Ravello and Amalfi, it is one of the most important and favourite tourist destination of the beautiful,unique and unforgettable coastline of the Campania Region and probably the most shining gem of that Southern Italian coast.

There are many reasons why that Mediterranean Eden has always been a favourite destination for several tourists from all around the world, undoubtedly apart all those mentioned features the most relevant is that picture and image that resort shows which every visitor will take in the most pleasant memories for ever.

 Positano with its 4,000 inhabitants is a town perched on a picturesque cliff overlooking the crystalline waters of the sea with characteristic narrow streets,small courtyards with flowered balconies,its captivating and romantic promenade,its picturesque white houses are all part of a scenery simply enchanting at first sight.

That magic resort enjoys all the advantages of a mild climate all year surrounded by a group of green mountains called Monti Lattari formed by the Monte Comune,Monte Santa Maria del Castello, Monte Sant´Angelo Tre Pizzi,Monte Conoccina,Monte Campo and Monte dei Galli which all together are a splendid and picturesque crown around that beautiful and sublime Queen with magnificent views of the villages of Montepertuso and Nocelle.

The original structure of Positano is characterised by small houses which seem to be stacked on one another.Looking on the top of the town you can also admire its stupendous vegetation composed by lemon and orange trees,flowers and small gardens which extend to  the sea and a great feature of that enchanting place is that it is a pedestrian site where the visitor must be willing to explore on foot all sorts of hidden places.Very typical of the resort are also its famed steps,,there are a lot of them which make the town a kind of a vertical paradise creating evocative and panoramic views admiring the stunning gulf shape in its totality.

During the Middle Ages the former town was surrounded by towers built to defend itself by the several pirates attacks and some of them are still visible.The first along the coast is situated in a famous place called Punta Campanella, where Amalfi Coast begins just off the coast of Positano towards the splendid Sorrento.

The most appropriate description of such Eden is found  right by the writer John Steinbeck who wrote and said: "when you happen to find a place as beautiful as Positano,your impulse  and almost Always keep your discovery. Think: "If the story is filled with tourists who ruin, the locals  begin to live according to the tourism and goodbye to your wonderful discovery!"Yet the famed writer described in an  article with regard to the resort on Harper's Bazaar in 1953 as "a dream place which is never quite real until you are  alive and that becomes animated when you're gone"Undoubtedly the American Pulitzer Prize with all his talent sang hymns and praises in honour of a places who were loved since the Greek and Roman times by Kings and Emperors.

 Positano history is really long,including full of a myriad of legends,literary works,opinions,mysterious suppositions and quotes.About 10,000 years ago just after the last ice age,when sea level was much lower,certainly Positano as presumably other areas of the Amalfi Coast was inhabited by hunter-gatherers,like Cro Magnon,all that is certified by archaeological finds corresponding to fossil bones of deer and wild boar beside a hearth of some 8,000 or 9,000 years ago.

In the period of the Classical Greece,Capri,Sorrento and Positano were mentioned in Homer's Odyssey, when Ulysses resisted to the sirens song and that place was definitely remembered as that stunning coastline point facing the island of Li Galli, off Positano,so you know that sublime coastline was already known to the ancient Hellenic populations,though probably,according to the famous historian Strabo the area was almost uninhabited or populated by small communities mainly living along the slopes the nearest mountains.

Historically that magnificent place comes from oblivion at the time of ancient Rome,thanks to the mild climate and its scenic beauty and it was a resort vacation since the ancient Roman ages.On its shores,as for much of the Amalfi Coast,were built sumptuous Patrician villas belonging to wealthy freedmen and that magnificent town probably takes its name from the most spectacular villa belonged to the freedman Posides Spado,or in any case according another version by Poseidon,the God of the sea.

Among the ancient inhabitants of the place it said of many hidden villas,some of which are under the sand of Marina Grande starting from the pier where the boats dock passengers up the cliffs of enchantment which take the name from the supposed Villa Incanto namely the east side of  the beach,where,in memory of the old fishermen still sticking a column used to moor the boats.

It is said that the Emperor Tiberius,who moved from Rome to Capri because he did not trust anyone and he was afraid of being poisoned, for that reason he is forwarded to Positano with his triremes in order to equip the flour from a mill which still exists in the Mills Square and even still operative  until the period of the 2nd World War.

The villas,along with other buildings of the ancient Romans were buried by pumice during a Plinian eruption  in the 79 AD and certainly the life and the economy of those ancient inhabitants suffered a severe blow.There are other information of the following centuries,perhaps the hardships of life went to the efforts of those ancient town intent to wrest that land from a lifetime in itself already stingy.

Unfortunately,in the following centuries the decline of the Republic of Amalfi of which Positano was part began prematurely,it is said due to internal conflicts for too many lands integrated in that powerful Marine Republic and the individualism of people enriched components are dissociated, first time in pursuing autonomy, then,disorganised and mostly because they had lost their collective strength soon became  prey to the feuds surrounding gentry.Its active port went into decline following the demise of the Republic due to the raids by Roger II of Sicily  and the Pisans.In the year 1492 Positano became a feudal land of Naples and in 1532 under rule of Giovanni Miroballo and Mastrogiudice Marino, who were succeeded by Cossa,Bianco and Bonito families.

In those years of decadence and different cruel rulers with sad events,Positano experienced poverty and terror.The feudal lords put taxes of all kinds, attacks and  raids by pirates were frequent and the crown of the surrounding mountains were infested by  brigands,furthermore a plague decimated a land already heavily marked.

The Ottomans attacked in several occasions Amalfi and Positano,carrying several raids,the Turkish Pacha Suleyman came with 170 ships in the bay,plundered and burned many towns and villages including Positano.Amalfi Republic at that time before the Ottoman and Saracen devastation lived without wars but despite that the robbers and  the mismanagement of both Ministers and Barons authorising their feuds all sorts of abuse.

It was the time when the people began to make their voices heard and also the period when the famous  fisherman Tommaso D'Aniello staked in the popular uprising in Naples and in the year 1668 the turn toward a new beginning,Positano disbursement 12,943 ducats to redeem itself from the weight of feudal and declared Royal City, then opened the maritime trade with Greece,the island of Cyprus also reactivating  the commerces with Apulia, Calabria and Sicily becoming superior in terms of trade to other maritime cities.

The area was also as in the past a place as well as of the incursions of pirates even the place where inmates were criminals because in the east of the main island, there were found with the cells of the chains which bound definitely needed to keep the convicts.

To cope with the constant attacks from the sea side the Viceroy Pedro of Toledo ordered that every town or village from which the towers notified any dangers from the sea.Positano built a lot but the most important was that one of riverside in another place called Trasita so named because there were always  plenty of birds.

In the decade between 1860 and 1870 with the advent of the Unification of Italy,the heavy taxes on a land already perceived as stingy and the military occupation of the village the land was practically  depopulated.

The famous Southern Question tells you that there was a military post on the beach,where there is currently a Restaurant,place where the soldiers dispensed with the butt of the gun if only went out to sea,many were unable to pay taxes seeing confiscated homes and properties.According to the history of Southern Italy, Giuseppe Garibaldi betrayed the expectations of  the population,ironically, the expedition of that leader linked to the reunification of Italy did not bring improvements.

 With that background of fear,hunger and repression during centuries and without a future,about 6,000 people to survive were forced to emigrate to America.The houses were empty,the walls crumbled,the paint discoloured,the roof fell and deteriorated.

People before leaving for the new continent removed  the windows of the houses to be surveyed and that would not be taxed, giving a bleak landscape of that time.Due all that  Positano had in that time a bad reputation and nicknamed ghost town and since that period the local population has  never exceeded 4,000 inhabitants.

Between the late 19th century and early 20th century,the town was almost depopulated.The emigration to America continued and a relevant detail to remember is that in New York about,30,000  inhabitants of origin or parentage of Positano decided to fix their residences in the Big Apple.

Since the beginning of the 20th century until some artist visited the place by accident,yet still dazzled by the beauty of that place,so it was when the current resort became a sort of  alcove of artists and many more in love with that sublime land.

The Neapolitan Caprile,the German Richard Oelze, Picasso,Carra fell in love with the divine Queen of the Amalfi Coast which also became a destination of prominent writers such as Siegfried Kracauer, John Steinbeck,Corrado Alvaro, Dino Buzzati, Alberto Moravia.

Apart all those famed figures worth also a mention that group of German refugees, who from 1939  to 1945 found refuge in Positano to escape by the Nazi tyranny,among them the writers Stefan Andres,Armin Wegner, Martin  Wolff and also the Russian painter Ivan Zagaruiko decided to live there.

The American writer Steinbeck so in love with that resort apart all mentioned before also said ;"The houses of Positano are built on a hill so steep that it would be a  cliff if there had been carved scales. I believe that the foundations of houses, usually vertical, in  Positano are horizontal. The small Gulf sinuous incredibly blue water and green slightly wet a beach of  small pebbles "

In that pleasant description is encapsulated the particular characteristic of that unforgettable town,an ideal place for painters,writers, musicians and artists.So it was as those characters including Steinbeck who was one of the characters most related to the local intellectual life brought friends,the voice of such divine place ran and the town became increasingly a place of marvellous attractions.

In addition to all that,there was a notable local change,the houses were turned into Hotels,the old haunts in restaurants and many fishermen began to organise operations arranging beaches and boats services. 

Later another important stage is linked to another kind of tourism less cultural and more linked to sun,tanned skin and beach,it was the time in which came  the foreigner tourists from Northern Europe, the Swedes were among the first to fall in love with that resort of Amalfi coast, it was the time of the first bikini and the time of the now famous "Lion of the Sun."

That splendid coastal town started to be visited by famous people,adventurers and Playboys searching love stories and summer adventures,the tourism developed very fast,reaching fame and glamour and thanks all that currently Positano is one of the most developed and organised tourist resorts in Europe and in the world.

In the famous period linked to the 60s, Positano also discovered and experienced a movement so called Existentialism,with the Australian cabaret dancer Vali Meyer and  the Austrian-born architect Rudolph Rappold as protagonists who were granted by the town of Positano in an abandoned  farmhouse in the upper part of  Vallone Porto,where they took refuge in a life to the primordial state.

After some years with the development of the tourism industry the town saw the birth of art a new interesting phenomenon: the famous Positano  fashion.Those were the years in which many tailors and designers to adapt to the growing demand for beachwear and along with it even clothing for men,among the first of which was the famous Rino who has dressed many characters.

Currently Rino Boutique managed by his son Francesco Casola, then other  famous designers as Maria Lampo became famous for the speed of delivery,with someone who could order a custom-made  pants and to see it packed after just one hour.

Rachel Talamo was another relevant figure, a skilled and  imaginative local seamstress began to start buying fabrics at her own expense and  packaged applications with little dresses,which were literally steals and arousing interest and constant requests of  the companies for which she worked,including for many events  and one the famous Positano Fashion could be seen on national TV.

Moda Positano lost some of its splendour but it continues today and it still can only be found on site,high quality garments,among current artists in the  field of pure,good-willed, creative heirs of Rachel Talamo,there is Giacomo Cinque,true genius of women's clothing with his company Jakarth and Laura De Martino, with her company Idea Woman whose models do not disfigure their way to class with their beauty and high fashion.

It is a pleasure to walk through the streets of the resort,completely pedestrian,entering in its charming alleys,discovering its hidden corners,looking for a little bit of shade in an enchanting courtyard in a sunny day and then continuing to explore that marvellous paradise born to delight every visitor.

A highlight of the town is also the perfect architectonic coherence,in the lower part,near Marina Grande where nothing was erected for mistake or altering the magic image and aspect of the town,that is another important detail why that place never lost its unique and fascinating charm.

The centre and heart of that magnificent place is the famous Marina Grande,the former beach where sailors and fishermen used to haul their boats and vessels.The Torre Transita is one of the famous Saracen Towers which is located halfway along the path leading from Marina Grande to the other beach of Fornillo, according to widespread opinion,it is so named because of the area in which it arose and it followed the same fate of another tower the Torre della Sponda heavily restored in the year 1950 after a long period of deterioration.

At the end of Marina Grande there is the charming pier used for ferries arrivals and departures.At Marina Grande starts Via Positanesi d'America a beautiful  cliff side pedestrian promenade,where you can admire three ancient defencive towers and the Spiaggia di Fornillo,the previously mentioned beach from where you can enjoy beautiful and unforgettable sunsets.

The nearest Torre di Fornillo,a Tower part of the former defencive system erected in the 16th century, and like the others it was partially demobilised in different periods such as in the year 1758 but also in the years 1817 and 1930, however it was restored.
The Torri Saracene the Saracen towers of Positano are a great highlight of the town.The Middle Ages era saw the construction of towers as checkpoints to see the Saracens vessels,authors of numerous  incursions and raids against the local population.

All the towers were built in a strategical position,one was located outside the town, at Punta Campanella, where begins the Amalfi Coast.From there,due an excellent view of the entire gulf and once seen the invaders attacks they threw the first signal,consisting in a cannon shot and after that the tam tam moved to other two towers located along the local coastline.In that way all the inhabitants were informed and alerted and they could take refuge on the steep hills on which were developed the neighbourhoods of Nocelle and  Montepertuso. 

The Saracens,skilled sailors and soldiers were underprivileged to go on those heights,they did not know the territory and they were feared sometimes for possible counterattacks by the local population in an unknown place for them.The 4th tower or better the remains of a last tower  of the Angevin period is the island Li Galli,because of its important position was unusual.That tower in fact was an element of an independent fortress that maintained long before and it became an attraction for celebrities who hosted from 1925 onwards.

Along the ramp leading to the beach of Fornillo,worth a visit the Chiesa di Santa Margherita,a Church dedicated to St. Margareth) erected  by local Porcelli family between the 16th and 17th  century and it was restored in the second half of the 18th century by the inhabitants with the help of Nicola Romito who is  remembered in the inscription placed on a plaque outside in latin language in the main facade where you can read: Templum hoc divae of Margaret Virginis et Martyris huius Regiae Terrae Positani former family Porcelli diu dirutum former divotione civium Universitatis casalis Furni inferioris cohoperante Nicolae Romito quondam Petri eorum sumptibus to fundamentis" which translated means :The temple of that goddess dedicated to St. Margaret, virgin and martyr of the Royal Family Land Positani Porcelli family,for long time dismantled thanks to the Furni University with the collaboration of Pietro Nicola Romito who has reopened the doors covering the costs with the money of to the foundations.

That Church was erected on a square plan and it consists of a nave with two side altars and a barrel vault with lunettes.At the entrance there is the choir with the organ currently discarded on the left side of the sacristy.The altar is made in marble and above it, in a niche was placed the statue of Saint Margaret while the other two altars of the side chapels are also made in marble too.

Very close to Marina Grande there is the most important local building the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta a Religious building dedicated to St.Mary of the Assumption which worth a visit.

It is one of the most beautiful  Churches in Italy and according to a legend,it was founded after the arrival in in the town of a 13th century Byzantine icon depicting the Virgin Mary,the famous Madonna di Positano conserved even today in that Sacred Temple.

Dominated by a splendid majolica dome of green and yellow tiles built in 1920 it is one of the most famous local attractions ad in the Italian peninsula,absolutely unique in its style.Among the commendatory Abbots who would carry the Abbey of Positano worth to remember the Cardinal  Vincenzo Maria Orsini, later well known as Pope Benedict XIII. The construction consists in three magnificent nave,it is a hymn to the most fine art containing a relevant collection of artistic works and a highlight is definitely its imposing altar.

On 14th and 15th August between the  Church and the sea is celebrated the feast dedicated to the Virgin of the Assumption, which commemorates the historic landing of  the Saracens and the miraculous intervention of the Virgin.That event concludes with the representation of the fire in the town and the abduction of women by invaders.

A legend says that many years ago, around the 12th century,a ship of monks carrying a picture of a Virgin of Byzantine style,sailing in the Tyrrhenian Sea close to the former small village.The sea was calm but the ship could not land for a total absence of wind,when the sailors heard a voice saying Posa, Posa (put down ,put down.).They stop in that place and they saw the picture of the Virgin.

The event took that name when the image of the Virgin appeared and it was carried to the Church of St. Vito, Patron Saint of Positano,they  left it there,but in the morning it mysteriously disappeared and it was found near the coast on a myrtle tree.It was thought that event,all was considered as a sort of miracle because nobody moved it,so it was in that point began the construction of the new Church concretely dedicated to the  Virgin of Assumption who is celebrated with all the honours on 15th August each year.

In Viale Pasitea a road near the square Piazza Flavio Gioia,you can see a Neo-Gothic small Church with a splendid bell tower,the Chiesa di Santa Caterina a Religious Temple dedicated to St.Catherine.It was originally erected by maritime merchants who traded with Alexandria in Egypt, where the Saint was much revered.The building was dilapidated but restored by the local family Porcelli keeping the original architectonic style.Inside you can admire a 18th century marble altar which is the only surviving element of the old former Chapel.

In the same avenue there is the Chiesa di San Matteo a Church dedicated to St.Matthew.Built on a rectangular plan and showing a barrel vault with lunettes,the walls are decorated with stucco relief and pilasters and that Religious construction is also famous because  until the last century it preserved in its interior an ancient marble slab,perhaps a finding of a Roman villa currently displayed in the Museo Nazionale di Napoli. 

That slab depicts a man with a basket of fruit surrounded by players of bagpipes.The exterior of the Church is rich of decorative elements,except for an arch above the tympanum in which is placed a bell.The Church was restored in the year 1797 and its position is simply beautiful,the building looks out on the narrow and steep stairway in the street Via Monte.

In  the square Piazza Flavio Gioia there is another Church the Chiesa Nuova (new Church).The original name was Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie because it was previously dedicated to Our Lady of Grace.

That construction was largely restored in the 18th century although the building was erected in the 11th century.It is one of the best Baroque example of the entire Amalfi Coast thanks to its elliptical roof and marvellous dome.The architect who made that masterpiece is unknown,probably someone who worked in Naples,or much more in the Italian Capital.The inspiration in the architectonic shapes and style is very similar to the Naples and Rome Borromini works as the Rome Pantheon.

The main entrance is located along the major axis of the Church and the adoption of elliptical has mediated the issue between the plant and the central longitudinal hallway with esoteric symbolism of the Christian the way of Salvation in the nave and the Paradise in the dome.

All the Chapels are radially arranged around the perimeter forming a sort of ring,they are all covered with vaulted arches and decorated with marble altars and respectively dedicated to St.Joseph,St,Peter,St.Michael and the Virgin Mary of the Annunciation.

In the same square going down towards the Scale di San Giovanni ( stairs of Via S. John) is situated the Chiesa di San Giovanni (St.John Church) in the past called Chiesa di San Giovanni Pastiniello Trabucco.

The name derived from pastinato a sort of diminutive form of contract farming oldest and most widely used for the clearing of the lands.The exterior is highlighted by decorative elements of relevant interest, except for the contour of the prospectus pilasters cornices and the tympanum of the entrance.

The building was developed on a rectangular plan of limited size,it presents barrel vaults and windows,the decorative stucco is different from all other local Churches,the valuable altar and a Roman funerary urn walled into the sacristy are among its main highlights next to the splendid floor partially tiled in terracotta of Campania,a technique adopted by local masters who decorated it with a compass rose in memory of the restoration carried out in the second half of the 18th century,maritime employers and seafarers.

In the small and picturesque Piazzetta dei Mulini (Mills Square) a captivating square,you can admire the Chiesa del Rosario (the Church of the Rosary)..The architectonic shape of that building consists in a single a rectangular nave with a barrel vault with lunettes above the windows while the semicircular apse is surmounted by a drum and a dome,on which there is a lantern.

The current building is the remnant of an old Monastery which stretched around and below the present street level.It was originally rich in artistic works but they were destroyed,lost for deterioration or dispersed.

The Church stripped of most of its treasures was transformed in a court and later returned to the cult.It became the seat of the congregation of SS. Rosary.Originally the Church in the year 1614 was donated to the Benedictine Monks who founded a monastery,which was suppressed in the year 1652 by Pope Clement X.

At the entrance there are some tombstones and on the left side you can see a splendid and relevant Roman sarcophagus with a notable representation of the myth of Bacchus which are the only remaining traces of its former glory.

Among the beautiful villas and palaces which deserve to be seen worth a mention Palazzo Murat which is located along the road leading to the sea.That building is one of  the most beautiful summer residences of the Amalfi Coast.

Erected in traditional Neapolitan Baroque style totally  different than other houses and buildings existing in the resort.Today it is a charming Hotel,a special and unique accommodation to enjoy a comfortable and unforgettable stay,while others of relevant interest are Villa Sersale located in the street Via Cristoforo Colombo and still Villa Orseola formerly Villa Margherita apart the splendid Roman Villa Stella.

In the district of Liparlati is situated the Chiesa di San Giacomo.It is a Church dedicated to St.James and one of the oldest of the town.Erected in the 12th century in honour of  Santiago de Compostela,it was the first religious construction to be restored in the 18th century.

The building has a single nave with a vaulted ceiling with lunettes and four portholes developed in order to illuminate the interior with two altars.The entrance is accessible by the choir vestry,the main marble altar has above in a frame a picture of St. James while in the second stoned altar on the right side you will notice a painting,representing the Last Supper.

In a niche in front of the second altar you can see statues of of various ethnic groups converted to Christianity and at the centre of the floor there are the symbols representing pilgrims travelling to the Spanish town of Santiago de Compostela honouring the Saint.

Montepertuso and Nocelle are two small charming villages part of the Municipality,situated high up,they were originally connected only via a long staircase at the centre of Positano.Both are colourful and picturesque and once they were very peaceful places.For many people almost unknown,in the last decades with the advent of tourism became very lively and in the last decades every tourist wants to visit them for their beauty inside a natural frame which is as a land of Gods.Montepertuso is also known for the washed mountain which according to a legend,was a place washing the Virgin Mary with the index finger.Crossing the lemon terraces  from there you can walk until  the Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazie, a small Church which lies on a plateau overlooking the town, preceded by a square where stands the religious building dedicated to Our Lady of Grace.

Its simple and sober exterior aspect with semicircular apse and side chapels, brings back memories of similar examples of religious architecture of the Renaissance,the pseudo-Baroque interior consists in three naves,subdivided by three arches with transept and apse at the sides of which are depicted the Saints and Evangelists Peter and Paul.

Above the entrance is situated the choir with the organ while the roof of the nave is barrel vaulted with lunettes.At the top of the apse there is a circular opening which when is illuminated by sunlight transmitting solar lights from outside to the whole interior environment gives the Church a special charm.On the right side next to the main body of the Religious building rises the bell tower with its distinctive octagonal irregular spire an almost perfect architectonic element in total harmony with the rest of the complex.

Nocelle,however  is a popular destination for the famous Sentiero degli Dei (the Path of the Gods) apart that magnificent attraction has another highlight which is the Chiesa della Santa Croce the Church dedicated to the Holy Cross.That attractive Religious building has a single nave with flattened barrel vault and an apse with a charming altar kept in a small niche with a image of the 17th century, representing the deposition of Christ or the Pieta.That small construction was erected in the year 1834 by architect Giuseppe Casola to replace the oldest one at the centre of the village.

The Cappella di San Pietro (the Chapel of St,Peter)  is just outside the town,in a very pleasant area which combined with that attractive Religious building form a romantic corner in which everyone wants to celebrate his wedding.

On its front intertwine red lines and above the entrance,the most famous of the Apostles seem to entrust the keys to paradise for the marriage.Inside,the space is stretched towards the picture window which opens onto the Mediterranean Sea,the scenery,its position and all the natural environment surrounding that small and charming construction is something to stay hours and hours in contemplation of such divine image.

The small but beautiful beaches of Positano,Fornillo, La Porta, Arienzo and Ciumicello are not big but they are so captivating and charming inviting everyone for their scenic appearance making them places to spend dream holidays in the divine Queen of the Analfi Coast.

In summer to find place is not very easy due their limited size and the high occupation,furthermore you can reach Gallo,Gallo dei Briganti and Rotunda, three islets already well known in antiquity.According to Greek myths and legends,the archipelago of Li Galli is the place where lived the famous sirens sung by Homer in the Odyssey.

They have been often visited by the famous Russian ballet artist Rudolf Nureyev and the dancer is a declared Positano lover.Those islets reflect in all their essence and beauty the atmosphere of a classic and epic place,a sort of hidden paradise or Eden in an unforgettable Mediterranean set,unique in their kind as a little dreamland in a spectacular gulf.  

As prestigious tourist destination,the resort offers a wide variety of restaurants offering a typical and healthy Mediterranean gastronomy.The traditional Lemon Ravioli stuffed with ricotta and topped with melted butter is a highlight of the great local cuisine.

Among other culinary specialities most important worth mention the delicious Spaghetti vongole (mussels Spaghetti) and Spaghetti frutti di mare (Seafood Spaghetti),clams,prawns,squid are always fresh and of high quality.Delicious are the Acciughe Fritte (fried anchovies),seasoned with mint,vinegar and garlic, excellent are also plates as the great Pescespada grilled swordfish and very tastefully are also octopus in sauce and Calamari Fritti (fried squid)

The local territory also produces a great Extra virgin olive oil,thanks to its aromatic and genuine flavour  is used in the traditional Caprese with the delicious Mozzarella di bufala and fresh tomatoes and the town is also known about its ancient tradition about confectionery thanks to its lemon delights and fruits,the Babarese,is a kind of " Baba" a sort of Bignè 'filled with cream and strawberries,the original puff pastry without ricotta.

Fine liquors are prepared according to the traditional recipes, made with fragrant local citrus or strawberries,wild myrtle, figs and nuts and do not miss a shot the famous Limoncello of the Amalfi Coast.

The Positano Dolce Vita is very famous worldwide.The Caffè Positano is a very trendy a lively bar with a splendid terrace over the marina and live music while La Buca di Bacco offers the visitors everything,it is restaurant,bar,club and it also provides a lounge bar with live music and shows.

Other places pretty recommended are Convivium which is a very elegant club with excellent jazz music and Le Terrazze a trendy piano bar,an excellent choice to enjoy a lovely night,listening romantic music in a romantic resort.

Naples Airport Capodichino is situated approximately 55,0 kilometres from Sorrento.From Naples taking the  Highway A3 Naples-Salerno with exit at Castellammare di Stabia and continuing along the SS 126 road towards Sorrento-Positano.

From Naples harbour, you can also take a hydrofoil ferry,the trip endures approximately 40 minutes to Sorrento or the Circumvesuviana  train  and in about one hour you will be in the town of the Sorrentina peninsula.From there you can take the boat or the bus to Positano.The SITA buses leaves from the Sorrento train station,so if you take the boat from Naples,you would also take a city bus from the marina up to the train station and then connecting to that ravishing resort.
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Positano is a must when you visit Amalfi Coast in Italy,if you miss that magnificent seaside resort,it is like losing in Rome the Coliseum or in Pisa the famous tower,you can not leave that paradise called Costa Amalfitana without a visit to one of its most shining jewels which also offers the great chance to spend dream holidays thanks its charming and comfortable accommodations.

Simply the pleasure to walk in the streets of that small sublime coastal town and admiring the splendid and amazing views of a land  kissed by mother nature is something special,that divine Queen of the Amalfi Coast is something of unforgettable for everyone.Positano is inimitable and there are not many places in the world as that fantastic town located in a magnificent corner of the Campania coastline.


Francesco Mari


Recommended Hotels in Positano 

Hotel Palazzo Murat 
Hotel Punta Regina 
Hotel Le Sirenuse 
Hotel Eden Roc 
Hotel Poseidon
Hotel Miramare 
Hotel Buca di Bacco 
Hotel Marincanto 
Hotel Savoia  









TUSCANY-ITALY-HI ALL,I CAME BACK FROM THE BEAUTIFUL TUSCANY WITH VERY INTERESTING INFORMATION ABOUT PRODUCTS,ITINERARIES AND SO ON.. SO IF SOMEONE WANTS TO START TO DO SOMETHING REALLY INTERESTING,DO NOT HESITATE TO CONTACT ME.

Hi all,I came back from Tuscany today with excellent information about many products and new itineraries so if someone wants to contact me to do something really interesting,will be a pleasure..

Wish all a great day and a wonderful weekend,

Francesco

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