Scilla is a little pearl of Italy,where myths and the splendid colours of the Costa Viola are wonderful highlights of that magnificent coastline of the Region Calabria,a small town of about 5,100 inhabitants which simply for its beauty could be considered a marvellous and divine picture of the entire Mediterranean.
Situated approximately at 23,0 kilometres from the city of Reggio Calabria on a small promontory called Capo or Promontorio Scillèo located on the strait of Scilla as it was called in the past,one of the great highlights of that place is the variety of tonality of its colours around a magic bay which can be a picture for every poster or tourist promotion,turquoise waters,a lush vegetation,the coloured houses with red bricks in group on that spectacular headland and a sun in a blue sky practically shimmering all year.
Land of legend and mythology during the period of Megale Hellas,when the region Calabria was with all the other regions of Southern Italy part of the glorious lands of the Magna Graecia,the name Scilla derives from the ancient Greek Skylla,called later by the Romans Scylla.Calabrian people calls Scilla "Scigghijiu" the pronunciation is Sci= Ch as Champagne with a strong G and an U final with a long sound.
It derives from a sea monster so famous in mythological narrations,a terrible monster with six heads and twelve feet,who lived in the strait of Messina dividing Calabria from Sicily.That name gave origin to some debates because apart the ancient Greek legends,someone said Skylla is a derivation of Scoglio ,meaning cliff that is a very remote version coming form a Phoenician word as Skoula meaning cliff.
Scilla was also narrated and described by prominent people such as Homer,Virgil and Ovidius and mentioned as well in the literary masterpiece the Odyssey.There are several legends linked to that creature who lived in that corner of the Mediterranean,one is that Skylla was a nymph daughter of the sea and the Gods Keto and Phorcys.
Coming from the other part of the strait of Messina,Glaucus son of the God Poseidon,(about Glaucus probably you remember in the mythology that figure half man and half fish) reached the Calabrian-Sicilian strait,he saw Skylla and fell in love but that nymph,scared,escaped on the cliff dominating the current town.Glaucus called the famous sorceress Circe to prepare a filter of love.That famous female figure depicted by Homer as a magic woman wanted Glaucus for her but the son of Poseidon rejected the sorceress.
The vengeance of Circe for an impossible love was launching the filter in the sea,transformed Skylla who was swimming there in a monster.That is in short the story in mythology about the nymph transformed in a terrible creature. Other legends say that she was a daughter of the Gods Zeus and Lamia or Typhon and Echidna.Generally the legends in the ancient Hellas and Megale Hellas are many for one legend the media of controversial opinions are3 or 4...,It is not easy to know the real version of so numerous it is just like the mystery of Atlantis,all the Hellenic legends were narrated in different ways and later rewritten in others a long list of myths sometimes with different stories.
Most recent historical steps of the current town,according documentations say that in the 5th century B.C,in that area rich of fish,exotic Mediterranean vegetation,in a strait rich of fish and legends,lived the Tyrrenians a local population,mainly pirates,skilled navigators and explorers of the sea.The Greek colonisation started with the tyrant Anaxilas well known with the name Anassillao born in Messenie-Pelopponnes.
That powerful man was that figure who always wanted to link the ancient Zancle,The current Messina founded by Greeks as well to Rhegium the current Reggio Calabria and also the character who gave the name Messiene to the Sicilian city Messina in honor of his Hellenic birthplace.
Under Anaxilas rule the town was used for different operations as stronghold against the several attacks of the Tyrrhenians who wanted to reconquer that area for the strategical position on the strait facing Sicily and furthermore for the several facilities in small bays to dock,commerce and fishing.
After the wars between Greeks and Tyrrhenians and the definitive Hellenic settlement,centuries later the current resort became a centre of the Imperial Rome,used as a Roman Castrum with coastal checkpoint and renamed in Latin language Oppidium Scylleanum.
Under Roman it increased its prestige as harbour linking the Calabrain coast to Sicily in active trades,
furthermore was built the road Popilia linking Scilla,one the the extreme points of the Italic Peninsula to one of the most important Roman colonies in Campania,Capua linked to Rome by the famous Consular Road Appia.
The geographical and strategical importance of that centre also
generated had other important historical events as the dispute between
the Emperor Gaius Julius Caesar Octavius Augustus well known as Octavius Augustus the first Roman Emperor and Sextus Pompeuis in the war inside the Roman Empire denominated the Sicilian Revolt.Historically the town is also famous because was a land of refuges of the rebel slaves led by the legendary Spartacus against the Empire in the famous and tragic Servile War.
After the Empire fall,that centre of Calabria became a stronghold of the Ostrogoth under the King Flavius Odovacer well known as Odoacre,famous to defeat in the 476 the last Roman Emperor Romulus Augustus.During Odoacre rule the town had several up and down in terms of economic stability due the numerous wars against the Vandals who conquered after hundreds attacks to the town.
.It came back under Roman Byzantine rule when the General Flavius Belisarius faithful Militar Leader of the Emperor Iustinianus reconquered all the Southern Italy with an intense campaign the Ostrogoth Kingdom finished in the 535 with the declaration of annexation of Calabria and Sicily to the Roman Byzantine Empire of Constantinople.
After a period of peace,Scilla was several times attacked by the Moorish,who conquered part of the Southern Italy and dominated that area for approximately two centuries.The Normans in medieval times in the 9th and 10th century conquered the area,under the new rulers there were several revolts of the locals generated a very difficult period.
The situation improved a little bit under Swabian rule when Scilla received more autonomy and later was a domain of Pietro Ruffo a noble enemy of the last Swabian ruler Manfredi who fortified the town on the strait.After that period came the French Angevins who dominated for a a short period that land,until the famous event of the "Vespri Siciliani"with riots and other revolts against the new rulers.
The town was also for many years under Spanish rule incorporated in the Bourbon Reign in the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies,all that before the reunification of Italy culminated in that land in the year 1860..During its long history Scilla also suffered two earthquakes in which it lost part of its historic patrimony but it keeps all its beauty,a shining diamond of Calabrian coast.
Scilla is a place you can not miss to visit when you are in that beautiful region called Calabria,it inspired many artists such as Alexandre Dumas and Alessandro Manzoni,thanks also to the narrations of those prominent writers it became soon a destination for artists,poets,writers and painters coming from different countries.The place is simply magic for geographic position,the crystalline waters of the Costa Viola and the sunlight give that centre a very particular and special charm.
The centre of the town is arranged behind its scenic promontory where is situated the castle,Via Nazionale is the main road flanking the coastline corresponding to the National Road, Strada Statale SS18 parallel to Via Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo which runs from the headlands to west along the local coastline.
Via Umberto I is one of the main artery crossing the core of Scilla from north to south and leading to the access of the Motoway A3 Naples-Reggio Calabria while the long Via Libertà is a sort from central axis surrounded by several streets and alleys.The street which is the limit of the urbanisation is Via Matteotti an important avenue which permit the connection to the centre via the mentioned Via Umberto I and also along Via Parco at east which directly leads to Via Libertà.
The town is also subdivided in two areas,one called Chianalea and Marina Grande.Chianalea is the area of the fishing harbour,the name Chianalea,derives from the Calabrian name Chiana (in Italian Piana means flat,ground and in Calabrian that word is Chiana) and from Galea (an old boat used for fishing) from the conjunction of those words (Chiana and Galea),the current name Chianalea,in other words simply a space to place to place boats,while Marina Grande corresponds to the area of the coast outside the harbour.
You can start from the harbour which is a gem in its kind,very colourful and lively where you can see ,the Luntre the boats used for the Spadare the swordfish fishing,one of the most important local activity,as in other parts of Calabria and Sicily.
The Luntra is a special boat prepared to go on the high sea,although it is not very large,it is a very sturdy boat.Today there are Luntre with motor,they have replaced the former Luntre a remo (with a team formed by Lanzaturi,Rematuri and Ntinnari) which were in the past the main fishermen boats.That kind of boats are equipped with a Falera a receptive antenna (a sort of radar) which signals the presence of the swordfish and other fish in the immediate proximity of the vessel and in the older boats it was called Ntinna(Antenna).
Today there are the modern Luntre a Passarella .a kind of motorboat with an iron or other strong metal footbridge to walk on it and coming close to the catch after the signal coming from the Falera.The Luntra is an emblematic local symbol because the tradition of that kind of vessels was born more than 50 years ago and continues today generation by generation.
The name Luntra means Otter,from that hunter predator mammal living near the coasts and hunting fish.Hunting a swordfish is a big risk,every time,u pinocchiu (Pinocchio) as it call in some part of Calabria and Sicily that fish for its sword as you know is very dangerous,apart that sharp sword they are also heavy fish and their impact force is notable.
Chianalea is very picturesque with narrow streets and alleys with some interesting buildings dated the 19th century and a series of ancient fountains,Fontana di San Clemente,Fontana Ruffo and the Fontana dei tre Canali,all them are patrimony of that historic district with the Churches of San Giuseppe and the Chiesa Matrice dedicated to the Virgin Mary.
The first Church,the Chiesa di San Giuseppe dedicated to St.Joseph was a former convent of the order of the Cruciferi and in that time was dedicated to the Virgin Mary of the Assumption.It was probably erected in the 17th century and with a last restoration in the 90s.
The high light facade is pretty sober with a wide arched portal and a belfry under a gable small roof topped by a cross.Developed on a nave on a rectangular plan that Church is characterised by a splendid doorway with framed decorations,very interesting are also the lines of the vaults,one of the highlights is the altar made by white marble.
The second Church the Chiesa Matrice is one of the historical gems of Scilla,probably founded on an ancient Greek temple it show an ample facade and wide portico with imposing columns forming a portico where is situated a rectangular portal.The upper section present a statue of the Virgin in a niche over a series of small rectangular windows and on the roof was placed in the centre a cross.
Developed on a long rectangular plan it has three naves.Notable in its interior the presence of majestic columns and stylish arcades and very relevant are frescoes and image of icons depicting bible scenes and relevant sculptures.
Scilla was nicknamed the Southern Little Venice for its coloured houses facing the sea and the bay near the strait giving the inspiration of a small Venice,and if you admire the town from the Ruffo Castle, the noble Ruffo family,Dukes of Calabria,among the most important and powerful families since the medieval period,you can have an idea why the town received such nickname linked to the legendary Marine Republic city of the Dogi.
On the other side of the castle which is a sort of border between the two areas there is Marina Grande,it is the area of the restaurants,some Hotels and the more lively place during evenings and nights with a magnificent waterfront.The most important attraction in Marina Grande is a Church the Chiesa dello Spirito Santo,built in the 15th century but totally completed and restored in the half of the 18th century.
Notable are the decorative elements of the facade,with decorative elements and a semi circular pediment over the portal and sinuous lines in the upper section.That religious building developed on rectangular plan with a nave contains a relevant painting by Francesco Celebrano dated late 18th century and a statue depicting St.Francis of Paola,the patron of the district,notable are the works in marble of the main altar and of the other smaller four on its sides,splendid representations of the late Baroque in Calabria.
Marina Grande is a meeting point of locals and tourists due the proximity of the Maritime promenade Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo adjacent to the beach and approximately 900,0 metres long,next to the promenade you can see the Spiaggia delle Sirene,the Sirens Beach.
A legend says that beach was one of the point of rest of the sirens coming from the Aegean Sea during their long trips.The beach is also protagonist during the Feast of San Rocco Patron Saint of the town celebrated on the 16th August and calling several people from other towns of Calabria and from the nearest province of the Sicilian Messina.
Ruffo Castle is one of the highlight of Scilla.There are not concrete dates about its construction,the fortress is located in the middle of the beach of Marina Grande and Chianalea,it is possible to visit it,coming across a gate with a a stone arcade where you can admire the coat of arm of the noble Ruffo family,who was Counts of Catanzaro ,Corigliano,Montalto and Sinopoli,Princess of Scilla.
That powerful family was one of the most distinguished for titles and prestige in the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies.The reconstruction of the current fortress was finished in the 16th century,developed on an irregular rectangular shape with check point towers and with long passage with a step which leads to the interior with the entrance.The position of that fortress is one of the stupendous attractions of the resort from where you can enjoy unforgettable views overlooking the Mediterranean and the magnificent coastline.
The Faro di Scilla,the lighthouse used by the Military Marine and built in the year 1913 as guide for boats and ships in transit in the strait of Messina.
The residential centre of Scilla has its focus around Piazza San Giorgio,where you can find the Town Hall and the Church Chiesa di San Rocco erected on a previous which was erected in honour of St.George, who was the previous Patron of the municipality.
The date of construction is uncertain probably the original building was erected in a post medieval period and during its history it had several restorations the last one in the 90s.It has an ample high facade with imposing columns forming a wide portico and on the top a large pediment with bas reliefs over a line of three rectangular windows.
The interior is highlighted by a splendid marble altarpiece in neoclassic style and the marble statue depicting the Saint Patron San Rocco placed under a golden niche,it said that statue came from the Marine Republic of Venice and dated 16th century.
The town is also very famous for its unique and spectacular viewpoints,from Ruffo Castle,on the National Road Strada Statale 18 linking Scilla to Reggio Calabria and from Belvedere Morselli a fantastic place dominating the strait with a beautiful view toward Sicily.
Also the immediate surroundings show several interesting attractions,Scilla has other districts,
Favazzina
is a very peaceful area along a beautiful beach,it is one of the
favourite places for holidays and weekends for many people coming from
the the nearest Reggio Calabria,Villa San Giovanni and Bagnara Calabra a
very peaceful place where you can enjoy blue crystalline waters and
splendid sunsets.
In that neighbourhood you can admire the
Chiesa di Santa Croce,dedicated to the Saint Cross,a Religious building dating back the
18th century,with an austere facade with a rectangular doorway and another one on its right side where on the top was placed the belfry.The upper section is completed by a large pediment topped by a cross.Developed on a rectangular plan with a central nave and an aisle and it has some relevant works in marble,paintings,statues of Saints and it contains the Saint Cross symbol of the Church a notable work in silver.
Solano Superiore is another neighbourhood,a high district of Scilla,at the foot of the Aspromonte
mountains that area part of the municipality is a great start point to
visit these wild and wonderful mountains where you can also practise ski
at Gambarie a resort at 1310 metres of altitude,visiting a Sanctuary,enjoying
the several chestnut and oaks forests and olive groves showing the
visitor wonderful wildlandscapes.
The Aspromonte is also very famous for its
excellent gastronomy,in particular lamb and pork cooked in different
styles.
The Grotte di Tremusa are another stupendous attraction.Those caves are situated about
10 kilometres from the town,approximately 20 minutes by car in the district of
Melia at about 800 metres of altitude.The position of the grottoes is very particular because they are located in a point where the wild Mountains group of Aspromonte is funded with the marine rocks of the town,all immersed in a verdant forest of chestnut trees.
The presence of rests of mollusks,algae,corals and limestone cliffs give them a very special formation including inside where you can admire beautiful examples of stalagmites,stalactites created by the flow of the water coming inside those caves.Melia is always been famous to be an active agricultural centre and for its appreciated wood,among which stands out the ash.The name Melia is the translation of a divinity, a nymph called Meliadis who lived among the ashes according legends of the Ancient Greece.
A splendid place to admire a spectacular maritime view is in Cannitello a neighbourhood of the nearest town of Villa San Giovanni from that place you can have a magnificent panoramic view of the Sicilian coast absolutely unforgettable.
The gastronomy of Scilla is really delicious and naturally the swordfish u piscispata is the highlight,typical is the Pescespada a gg´hiotta typical in Calabria and Sicily.It consist in slices of swordfish cooked with onions,capers,tomatoes (the ideal is using the small pomodori pachini) ,parsley, olives,pepper,salt and olive oil,the swordfish is cooked in many ways,grilled,fried and in the oven.
You can also try and appreciate the Polpette di Pescespada (swordfish balls) and other specialities made by the same fish ad the Involtini Pesce Spada swordfish rolls filled with tomato,parsley,olives,capers,chili pepper and olive oil are other local specialities,very common are also the Surici fritti which are very small white fish of the family of the sole.
The Acciughe in Umido is a stewed of anchovies,prepared with tomato,garlic,onion,celery,parsley,chili pepper,very common is also the garfish,the Aguglia,prepared in different styles,the Aguglie Pangrattato are baked with bread crumbs olive oil,garlic,lemon and salt or also grilled.The Tonno alla Bagnarese is another speciality,tuna cooked with capers,parsley,lemon,oregano,olive oil,salt and pepper,in the same way is also prepared the swordfish, while the Piscistoccu is very similar to the stock fish or the Portuguese Bacalhau.
Also the pasta has a notable part in the local gastronomy,the Pasta C´ha muddica is another typical Calabrian -Sicilian plate,spaghetti prepared with grated bread and alici local fish similar to the anchovies,the Pasta N´Casciata is a sort of lasagna prepared with pecorino,parmesan,provola cheeses,a meat ragu,hard eggs.The Maccaruni are homemade maccheroni in that corner of Italy cooked with a meat ragu,black pepper, pepper,chili pepper and ricotta cheese.
The vegetables play an important role in the local cuisine,peppers and aubergines are also used grilled,.adding oil,salt and pepper and served as starters or accompanying other plates and with fried aubergines is prepared the famous Parmigiana di Melanzane a sort of lasagna with that vegetable adding cheese,Parmesan and caciocavallo cheeses,tomato,pepper,onion,garlic,basil and salt.
Excellent the presence of local sausages as the famous Soppressata prepared with chili pepper,black pepper,fennel and salt,meat is present with the delicious Costolette d´Agnello baked lamb ribs cooked with tomato,pepper,olives,olive oil and onion and the frittole is a stew of pork meat.
Among the desserts very popular are the Pastiera,the local Pignolata and Suspiri i Monache,all them really excellent and delicious.The quality of the local fine wines is absolutely superb with robust grapes cultivated in a land where there is a mild climate all year and vineyards which produce wines of a very high level,smooth and savoury among them worth a mention Bivongi, Armacá, Arghillá, Rubino, Pellaro, Dioscuro,furthermore excellent are also the locals Moscato and Malvasia.
The nearest airport is the Aeroporto Dello Stretto Tito Minniti of Reggio Calabria situated at 28,0 kilometres from Scilla.It is very easy to reach the resort from that city taking the Motorway A3 direction Salerno via Villa San Giovanni and it is only 20 minutes driving.
Scilla is a small paradise of the Costa Viola you can not miss it if you are planning to visit that wonderful region called Calabria,the splendid colours of that coast and the historic past so rich with its myths and legends will conquer you admiring a place where the warm sun always shine all year.
Francesco Mari
Recommended Accommodation in Scilla
Hotel Scilla
Palazzo Kratalis
Hotel Il Principe di Scilla
B& B La Locandiera
B& B Il Porticciolo
Recommended Restaurants in Scilla
Ristorante Onda Azzurra
Ristorante Scoglio D´Ulisse
Ristorante Palazzo Kratalis
Ristorante Glauco
Ristorante La Fiocina
Ristorante Il Pirata
