Nesso-Lake Como-Italy | Spectacular Gorge Above a Unique Waters Basin.


Nesso is a very pleasant resort on Lake Como in Italy highlighted by a spectacular gorge above a unique waters basin, a diamond called Lario which is one of the most desired destinations worldwide since a long time ago.

That municipality of Northern Lombardy is situated along the panoramic National Road 583 which starts in proximity of Piazza del Popolo in the city of Como leading to the pearl of the Lake Bellagio and along that scenic hallway you will have the chance to admire several magnificent fairytale places immediately outside of the capital of the province all to remember as an indelible image to to take with you forever.

During a picturesque and charming climb the first municipality you will meet is the charming Brunate, the famous Balcony of the Alps and immediately after other picturesque towns as Blevio and Torno  you will be in a geographic point in which that striking lake side stretch forms a captivating promontory facing the fascinating town of Moltrasio north of the famous resort of Cernobbio on the other coast of Lake Como highlighted by a superb bay with protagonist the luxury Hotel and former noble mansion Villa D' Este. (In the case you are interested I wrote a post about that place and Blevio too)
 
The Strada Statale continues crossing small wonderful centres as Faggeto Lario where the lake shows an ample bend forming a pretty large gulf before to reach Pognana Lario where it is narrower and with fantastic sights towards Carate Urio and Laglio before to enter in the boundaries of Nesso, a very picturesque site, a place situated in a small wild valley called Valle Nosè but also known as Val Nosee.

Often that area is unnoticed because many times the tourists who are travelling along that stunning road which leads straight from Como to Bellagio jump or ignore the presence of that magnificent place which apart its superb natural beauty and numerous attractions also boasts a considerable historic patrimony.

If the visitor wants to see something simply special and unique returning home with an unforgettable image of Lake Como imprinted in his memories, Nesso is of course the right place.

It is a site where the panoramic views are absolutely amazing in a sublime territory where a group of scenic mountains meet divine blue waters in a romantic embrace along an ascent highlighted by a multitude of sinuous curves and unforgettable corners of a stupendous scenery which could be a poster for every promotion spot of the tourism industry.

Situated in a stunning hilly area at 301,0 metres of altitude overlooking the lake, that small centre with a population  of approximately 1,300 inhabitants facing Brenno on the opposite shoreline of the Lario lies before a panoramic curve which leads to the charming town of Lezzeno, just after a spectacular bend just some minutes to approach the boundaries of the magnificent Bellagio just 15,0 kilometres away along that unforgettable journey.

Superb medieval art, impressive sights, an intact nature, the memories of significant historic events which took place in that land marvel of the globe are as melted in a sort of hymn to the most refined poetry, in a place which always and eternally enchanted eminent poets, writers, philosophers composers also film-makers in different periods and of a varied provenance.


It is not a case that place is in addition one of the favourite subject of many contemporary photographers and landscape painters who desire without hesitations to immortalise the silhouette of that paradise on the oriental coast of that idyllic waters basin with protagonist the Orrido di Nesso, a spectacular natural, dreaming deep gorge formed by two tiny valleys, the Tuf and Nosè and two wild torrents descending as a mesmerising mirage above an enchanting borgo arouse in the Middle Ages as a loyal partner of a scenery simply divine.

 Very kind and nice locals, a good number of accommodations as comfortable B&B in its municipal, an exquisite cuisine, the chance to practise different kinds of outdoor activities as a wide range of water sports, trekking and cycling are other great features just like an uncontaminated atmosphere which makes since a long time ago that wonder a desired climatic destination.

That land was inhabited since prehistoric times according to archaeological excavations with the finding of artifacts of notable value and later it was a well known Celtic settlement.

The former ancient inhabitants recorded as official settlers were the Insubri related to another proto-Celtic tribe, the Ligurians who also had different contacts with some Etruscans in Lombardy and in the nearest Swiss Canton of Ticino. 

 They probably assimilated other Celts, the Cauni, another ethnic group who lived in the current Porlezza on the slopes of high plateaus  between Lake Como and Lake Lugano.(I wrote a post about that resort).

The name Nesso is closely linked to that population and it derives from Ness linked to the famous word which gave popularity to a notorious Scottish lake, famous worldwide for an enigmatic and mysterious monster apart its marvellous beauty and in a traditional dialectal expression the town is called "Nesss" with a very long letter S as final.

Those former inhabitants, pagans, polytheist and believers of several divinities linked to nature when saw those two torrents called Tuf and Nosè forming that spectacular waterfall which took the famed denomination Orrido di Nesso immediately believed that the presence of those waters was related to something of magic as a donation of  Ness who was according to the Celtic faith the venerated God of the waters and since then born that myth of that spectacular rocky gorge emblematic symbol of the town and its name.

The Romans colonised all the area of the Lario and also that centre became a land of the powerful Imperial Rome after the conquest led by the General and Consul Marcus Claudius Marcellus in 200 BC.

The victorious operation of the Legions of that Empire  was not so easy, that Imperial Officer had considerable difficulties to tame those Celts characterised by a strong unity and perfectly knowing the territory and furthermore because the Insubrians found in the belligerent Gaesataes, a Gallic populations coming from the French Alps very good allies.

The victory of that General who was also famous later for his participation in the Punic wars against Hannibal and Carthage was sanctioned by a direct duel with the Gallic King Viridomarus who was in that time elevated as leader of that Gallic-Celtic coalition.

After that epic event started a slow Latinisation and Romanisation  of the locals culminated with the assimilation of all the former settlers.

The centre received the title of Civitas Viculis and Coloniae, a declared official town and colony of the Roman Empire and Nesso as other villages on the shores of Lake Como suffered after the fall of that influential Italic ruler several invasions by Goths and Lombards.

The first were mainly devoted to raids and incursions while the second Germanic tribe established  between 568 and 569 the basis of a notable Reign with the establishment of an organised defencive system. Including they developed on the trace of a former road established by the Romans the renowned Via Regina developed in honour of the regarded Queen Theodolinda from Ratisbona, the current Bavarian city of Regensburg who married the King Authari in 589.

The Lombard domain endured over two centuries until 774 when they were defeated and replaced by the Franks who under the Carolingian dynasties Christianized the entire land which also entered in the Holy Roman Empire.

In medieval times the current resort became an important centre of residence of Bishops and Archbishops and during that period due to that Nesso acquired a prominent position.

In that time many neighbouring villages were under administration of the current town which later became a target of conquest in a long war between the Duchies of Milan and Como with the victory of the first who found an alliance with Nesso against the capital of the Lario.

The town was also protagonist in 1531 of a famous battle between the Milanese Duke Francesco Sforza and Gian Giacomo Medici Duke of Marignano and Marquis of Lecco and Musso well known as the Medeghino with the total destruction of the former fortress of which  some rests of lookout towers are visible today.

After a short period of occupation by the French army landed in Italy to face the invasion of the Protestant Swiss League and a brief period of rule of the Spanish Aragonese House in Lombardy in a tumultuous period linked to the wars of succession, Lake Como and Nesso were later occupied by France once again with divisions led by Napoleon Bonaparte who managed a campaign to abolish the feudalism in the Italic Peninsula.

That leader used a notable number of soldiers all around the coasts of the Lario to face a possible attack by the House of Habsburg which was enlarging its domains in Northern Italy. In1815 after the Napoleonic fall the entire Lombardy entered in the domain of the powerful Austro-Hungarian Empire which founded the historic Regno Lombardo Veneto, a former Kingdom which consisted in the current region,Veneto,Trentino Adige and Friuli Venezia Giulia.

The local history continued when that centre joined the Reign of Italy after the battle of San Fermo in proximity of Como which took place on 27th May 1859, an event in which the Kingdom of Sardinia and Piedmont incorporated all the Lario lands in the new Italian Kingdom in 1860 with the official proclamation in 1861 by the House of Savoy led in that time by King Victor Emmanuel II.

Before the advent of the modern tourism Nesso has always lived with its primary resources which were agriculture and fishing on the lake. Other small activities were concentrated mainly in small groups of artisans, extraction of stones from quarries located in the nearest mountains and production of starch and silk by the presence of several water mills established on local rivers and streams.

A sort of ancient tourism started anyway many centuries ago.The Romans loved that area of the Lario for its mild climate and the Empire sent there a colony of Greeks expert in the cultivation of vineyards with the viticulture occupying a position of extreme relevance.

Those activities generated that many Patrician families started to visit those places to see those impressive and scenic vines rows arranged in terraces on the local hills around that settlement.

Some centuries later the area was also often visited by prominent people of art and literature in different periods such as Virgilius, Leonardo da Vinci, Stendhal, Manzoni, Dumas,Wagner,Liszt,Lord Byron, Goethe,D´Annunzio and many other illustrious figures transited on that spectacular road to admire the beauty and the enchanting, scenic image of Lake Como in Nesso and its proximity.

The current town is the result of some former villages such as Careno, Scerio, Tronno,   Castello, Borgo,Onzanigo and Vico which all together form the current municipality.They are tiny agglomerations which have kept their old charming aspect, all them picturesque and historical places with their own identity.

The centre is arranged around its Municipio, the Town Hall along the Strada Provinciale 44 a road which starts as a branch of the National Road 583 forming a sort of ring from north to south leading to the area of the Vecchi Mulini, the old mills.

Nesso apart its scenic image also has a relevant historical and cultural patrimony and you can start the visit with the Chiesa di San Pietro e Paolo, the Parish Church dedicated to the Saints and Evangelists Peter and Paul situated in a charming square.

The current Baroque aspect of that Religious building is the result of a restoration and chronological architectural changes although that construction was erected in medieval times exactly in the 11th century.

That period is also when that Sacred Temple was consecrated by Pope Urbano II while the bell tower was rebuilt in the 17th century replacing a previous.

The main body of the Church started to have a change after a post medieval large restoration with a new re-arranged large facade having a central doorway flanked by two Neo Classic stoned columns.

On the sides were placed the statues of the two Saints patrons, Peter and Paul and a series of four square vertical columns integrated in the front side inserted on the sides of the sculptures. In the upper section you can see three windows and in the centre an arched one bigger than other two established on its flanks while on the top you can admire a large pediment with fresco topped by an iron cross.

The interior consists in a ample nave with a Baroque altar, beautiful frescoes and fine stuccoes dating back the 19th century and early 20th century. One of the most relevant highlights is the tomb with the relics of the Bishop Rainaldo of Como who lived for a long period in Nesso in the 11th century. 

The main building and the bell tower are totally in stone including the sloping roof of the structure and that is certainly a great attraction making it a very uniform and homogeneous construction.

The two structures are adjacent, the bell tower on the left is pretty sober highlighted by a circular white clock with big roman numbers. Erected on a square plan it is surmounted by a metallic cross, it has a wide curved window at the height of the belfry and in a corner adjacent to that imposing construction you can see a very picturesque narrow street.

The emblematic local symbol is undoubtedly the Orrido,  that beautiful masterpiece of nature,a magnificent waterfall in a rocky gorge descending next to some houses of the town.The Orrido is the confluence of two torrents called Tuf and Nosè flowing at the mouth of their respective valleys with the same name which form that unforgettable site to remember forever above that unique waters basin called Lake Como.

The Orrido di Nesso is considered one of the best places for photographers to show the beauty of the major attractions around the Lario, a unique and incomparable marvel of the extra basin.

The best site to admire that magnificent wonder is Piazza Castello, Castle Square while another one is  from the Ponte Romano, the Roman Bridge from where there is also another beautiful perspective of the Val Nosee.

That marvellous nature masterpiece was also according to historical documentations admired by the great Leonardo Da Vinci in a trip during the several years in which the Tuscan artist lived in Milan and that Genius cited the Orrido di Nesso in the Atlantic code.

Leonardo wrote : "Nesso, a land where a river falls with all its strength forming a huge slot in a mountain." Apart the admiration of that prominent figure other artists remained enchanted by that so scenic and unique view above the lake and he came back there in different occasions.

Including writers fell in love with that place and in the 19th century a notorious writer from Novara also famous to be a fervent patriot called Giambattista Bazzoni cited Nesso and its imposing and spectacular Orrido in some of his works such as the Guerra di Musso Falco della Rupe and the war of Musso,a town situated in the High Lario.

That work was written in 1829 and protagonist as main scene was Lake Como including Nesso and the image of its iconic Orrido conquered in that time the interest of other artists and ordinary people who started to flock very numerous to admire that wonder.

In other times that waterfall due to the power of that drop of waters was also used to produce energy for the local textile and paper factories and by the local mills which used that resource for their processes of productions.

Also the Film Industry could not resist to the fascination and appeal of that marvel and the British film-maker Alfred Hitchcock in 1925 chose that place for his work The Pleasure Garden based on a novel by Oliver Sandys starring Virginia Valli and Carmelita Gerachty produced by the German Bavaria Film and distributed by Wardour Film in the United Kingdom and Aymont Independent in U.S.A.

Some scenes were filmed in Lierna, a town in the province of Lecco and Nesso, with protagonist the iconic Ponte Roman , the scenic Roman bridge also called Ponte della Civera visible from the Antica Strada Regia,the famous Via Regina running along the coast of the lake.

It is reachable by the Orrido descending 340 stoned steps and  it was built to connect the Riva del Castello consisting in one side of the former fortress  to another side of the Val Nosè and as the Orrido is the most photographed place of the municipality for its historical value and for the spectacular image it offers with that spectacular waterfall above it.

In Careno,the neighbourhood on  shore of the lake you can admire the medieval Chiesa di San Martino dedicated to St.Martin. Generally it is closed but there is the opportunity to ask to open it at Nesso pier for a visit.

That Religious construction is a great work of the Middle Ages in the Como province dating back the 12th century and  it is definitely a masterpiece of Romanesque art in that corner of the Lario.

The nave with its original vaults is one of the main highlights with relevant frescoes of fine Lombard School among them the Annunciation of Jesus Christs and another one depicting the Crucifixion of Jesus with Saints. 

The building had some restorations and  it was partially remodelled in some occasions also in the interior and those superb works are visible in a mullioned loggia added many years later the construction of the former Temple. Very interesting is the stoned bell tower erected on a wide square plan which presents traditional curved windows of traditional Lombard school.

In a hilly plateau above that neighbourhood another must is an attraction you can not miss, the famous Grotta Masera. It is a marvellous cave which since the beginning of the 20th century became a favourite destination of local and foreign expert speleologists.

Situated at approximately 345,0 metres of altitude, it is a charming natural labyrinth containing a huge amount of beautiful and fascinating surprises such as meandering tunnels, small galleries of different size, several waterways, tiny water basins and small waterfalls. 

Masera Cave is considered one of the most beautiful discoveries in its kind on Lake Como connected to the water system of the surrounding mountains including the Piani del Tivano.

The presence of that marvel created a notable interest to discover much more  that underground wonder of great value and fascination which also includes a small natural channel of water directly ending into the lake.

In the street Via del Pero at Careno you can admire the Chiesa della Beata Vergine Dell´Assunta, a Church dedicated to the Virgin Mary of the Assumption.It is a fine Baroque Sacred construction dating back the 17th century with an attractive curved facade and a sober high bell tower elevated on its right side.

The facade consists in two blocks,the inferior includes a rectangular wooden doorway surrounded by a frame of stoned borders while the upper section presents a rectangular stained glass window and on the top was placed a metallic Christian cross.

The Church in its interior contains some interesting frescoes, one of them of considerable value depicting the Virgin of the Assumption and other attractions are relevant refined stuccoes dated the 17th century.

In the neighbourhood of Vico in the upper territory of the municipality you can admire a relevant example of Lombard Romanesque Art. Como and its province are very famous for stunning gems of architecture in stone and the Chiesa di Santa a Maria a Vico dedicated to St.Mary is a very significant artistic symbol of that kind of architectural style.

The main building and the bell tower were totally erected using that material and  including the sloping roof of the construction .The two buildings are adjacent, the bell tower was elevated on a square plan surmounted by a metallic cross and on its summit it is highlighted by the presence of an ample white circular clock.

The interior is very charming,with relevant Renaissance frescoes and absolutely beautiful is its nave covered by spectacular Romanesque vaults.

Nesso has a small picturesque pier and a pleasant promenade.A walk along that place is to enjoy the beautiful views of Lake Como,anytime, the view towards Brienno, Argegno and south in direction of Laglio in which the lake along the historical Via Regina forms a picturesque promontory on a gently curve is simply amazing.

Every time,morning or evening, spring,summer or winter ,Nesso is a great destination to spend holidays with great stays remembering for a long time that stupendous place.

The Strada Provinciale, the Provincial Road leads to Piani del Tivano a spectacular mountainous area at 1120,0 metres of altitude a splendid sitewhich was a former ski station some decades ago.

Today it is still famous for all those who love Nordic Ski withover 10,0 kilometres of slopes an ideal site to practise Ski Country but it is also in other seasons a special destination for trekkers and photography lovers and for all those who desire to admire beautiful landscapes from a fantastic view point overlooking the lake in a scenery composed by splendid mountains and wonderful forests all around that wonderful height.

The Val Nosee is since a long time ago a beloved destination for mountain bikers, crossing along trails a paradise of birches, beeches, broom and firs forests, spectacular changes of slopes moving from gently hills characterised by the presence of wild apple and cherry trees and some vines to rugged rockt sections over the 800,0 metres of altitude at the foothills of the majestic Alps, a territory simply created by nature for the lovers of that activity on two wheels.

The local gastronomy reflects the cuisine of Lake Como with excellent fish as the traditional Missoltini,the Lavarello,Alborelle and Pesce Persico, all them with other fish are also present in the Frittura Mista a combined plate of fried fish.The Pesce in Carpione is another traditional speciality which in its process is before fried and after marinated. 

The Pesce Persico, a delectable perch us also used in the risotto which is also cooked in different styles such as with cheeses, mushrooms and Luganighe, local pork sausages also combined with the classic local Polenta prepared in addition with cheese and butter.

The famous Polenta Uncia is another popular recipe cooked with sage, garlic, butter and cheese accompanying furthermore delicious beef stews such as Brasato and Spezzattini.

The Minestrone is another traditional plate prepared with different kinds of vegetables while the Filascetta, a sort of Focaccia prepared with red onions, butter and cheese is another old traditional local delight.

The local cheeses as Formaggelle, Gorgonzola, Taleggio,Semuda, Zincarlin are of high quality and they are also used apart with risotti and polenta as ingredients for sauces added to Gnocchi or other plates.

Notable is also the production of local Salami very similar as flavour to the famous Salame Milano and a famed Pancetta,  a kind of bacon of high quality. Other excellent plates which complete a great gastronomic offer are  venison,pheasant,wild boar and hare cooked in sauce,grilled, baked, in stews or in sauce.

Milan Malpensa Airport is situated at 73,0 kilometres of distance and in approximately one hour and some minutes via Como which is the exit to take along the Motorway A9 you will be at destination.

Nesso is one of some unforgettable places you can not miss during a visit or holidays in Italy on Lake Como with the opportunity to admire a spectacular place surrounded by a wonderful nature and with the view of that magnificent basin of waters called Lario.

Sometimes ignored but with that magnificent highlight that wonderful gorge the Orrido,Nesso is a splendid gem for history, culture and natural beauty.

Discovering and visiting that kind of  place is to know and learn a little bit more about the superb beauty of Lake Como with its endless patrimony and spectacular marvels will delight and impress you.


Francesco Mari



Recommended Accommodations in Nesso

B&B La Cascata
B&B Locanda Mose
Hotel Tre Rose

Recommended Restaurants in Nesso
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Restaurant Locanda Tre Rose (at Hotel Tre Rose)
Trattoria il Porto


Useful links

Lussan-France | Most Remote Languedoc-Roussillon in a Scenic Commune.



Lussan is one of the several hidden jewels of France in the most remote  Languedoc-Roussillon that vast charming historic French Region which is greatly represented in a scenic commune like that in all its essence and captivating appeal showing its beauty and fascination of its territory in a nutshell, a great attraction in its kind for the inspiring atmosphere surrounding all its boundaries as embraced by a magic suggestive aura reminiscent the old times.

That tiny centre located at 43, 0 kilometres north of the historic marvellous city of Nimes one of the most beautiful centres founded by the Romans in the country and just 18, 0 kilometres from the attractive town of Uzes, it is also situated at a very short distance from the magnificent Parc National des Cévennes, one of the most beautiful National Parks in Southern France, a further great attraction boasting a fantastic natural patrimony and extraordinary landscapes which could painted by the most eminent masters of the finest Impressionism.

Part of the Department du Gard, a territory of an immense scenic beauty, that small municipality lies on a picturesque hilly alongside a fascinating plateau at an altitude of 360, 0 metres with in its immediate proximity some peaks reaching an altitude of over 1500, 0 metres, the scenery is absolutely sublime and highly captivating at first sigh  in a sub region very famous for its excellent wines, a delicious gastronomy and several artistic and architectural masterpieces which immediately delight the view of every visitor.

The Gard is a concrete stunning geographic point not far from the suggestive Bouches du Rhône where that important river (the Rhône) embraces the Mediterraneanas in everlasting marriage forming sinuous curves and large inlets and pretty close to another relevant waterway the Ardèche which with its magnificent course characterised by stunning bends alternated to some beautiful straights is a further enjoyable accent next to the Vaucluse, a splendid valley highlighted by numerous green charming plains and verdant hills which all together are other spectacular attractions around that centre. 

The Languedoc-Roussillon is very famous for its immense historic patrimony and the beauty and fascination of magnificent centres apart the previously mentioned Nimes as other shining pearls such as CarcassonneMontpellier and Perpignan which can be superb destinations for stupendous short breaks or also  combined as significant stages in fantastic routes during a tailor made tour with endless options to develop a vast range of magnificent itineraries for every taste with why not a pleasant stay in Lussan too.

Including the towering Pyrenees and with nearest attractive Catalonia or the stupendous city of Avignon to mention another Southern French city of high fascination which is just 59, 0 km away from that site are further wonders you can visit and insert in your plans spending holidays in a fabulous territory with that vast fan of chances offering a tourist several opportunities to enjoy a multitude of wonderful and varied excursions with also many things to do in terms of leisure and sporting activities apart the cultural and historic aspect which is among the main highlights.

 Lussan is a more than valid point of departure or stage for all that in a land so rich of marvels around its boundaries with a very ample variety of opportunities and a  destination as that commune is also to discover how is beautiful the interior of a captivating region in which the Mediterranean, hills and mountains form a marvellous setting so fascinating and impressive for the wonderful changes of colours with a varied panorama of different landscapes which are special and unique features so pleasant and highly attractive at first sight.  

In that land including in the smallest picturesque villages scattered in scenery simply amazing you will be bewitched by a stupendous environment with a magic frame all around those tiny centres which could be immortalised by the most inspiring landscape painters and donating great images to the most fervent photography lovers.

Lussan is a classical example reflecting all those features showing its charm closely linked to remote times conquering everyone and it still conserve an enchanting medieval image.In a simple walk strolling its pebbled squares, cobbled streets and picturesque alleys you will be extremely enchanted to visit a place which seems the time has stood still.

Its appealing old houses, imposing stoned buildings, scenic farmhouses which still show their former rural structures and original appearance, captivating forests and wild corners extremely rich of appeal depict all together one of the most attractive pictures of the old fascinating France which still exists and lives in those places for many people unknown  with all their charm in sites as Lussan.

That centre of Languedoc-Roussillon is also a great destination for many outdoor activities such as climbing, trekking, canoeing and fishing in the nearest rivers.The presence of great trails, beautiful roads are also a Mecca for all people who loves mountain bike and cycling thanks to a territory which offers challenging climbs, mixed and dirt routes, long steep stretches flanking fascinating forests and reaching hilly summits from which it is possible to have striking panoramic views.

Lussan is a site absolutely magnificent in spring with its flowered countryside, a hymn to the beauty of Southern France, summer is another period of the year simply fantastic with many sunny days but also autumn and winter are more than appealing with a change of tonality of colours in a land born to capture and delight with its unmistakable appeal every tourist.

That commune offers in its boundaries and immediate vicinity some cosy and attractive rural accommodations called Auberges very charming and comfortable; some of them very rustic and welcoming located in captivating verdant corners completely surrounding those establishments devoted to hospitality. The major part of them are situated in a stunning scenery which could be considered as a little paradise so perfect, suitable and appropriate for romantic couples searching an alternative accommodation to spend unforgettable days encircled by a very suggestive air.

In addition in that marvellous territory you will have the opportunity to taste a large variety of delicious gastronomic specialities part of a local cuisine among the best of the entire country, combining different kinds of local genuine ingredients highlighted by savoury flavours and as special mention everything is greatly homemade.

That magnificent land of Southern France also has a considerable history to narrate. It was since ancient times an important settlement with a secular relevance and including notable discoveries after archaeological excavations with the found of very important artifacts dating back prehistoric times certify a notable human presence in that geographic area.

In the course of its chronological historic stages Lussan was settled by Celtic and Gallic populations who inhabited the current land before the Roman Empire colonisation which developed there important bases to prepare after the Gaul conquest the further Imperial campaigns towards the Iberian Peninsula.

That ancient local presence in the local history is closely linked to the Volcae Arecomici one of the oldest tribes who established their camps and villages including in the territory of that Commune.That people according to historic documentations probably came from a land of central Germany moving to the nearest French territories establishing their villages and joined local Gallic natives forming a single ethnic group later assimilated by the Romans while others came back to their original lands.

Those settlers at the beginning lived a pacific life devoted to farms, breeding and agriculture and they originally occupied a vast territory close to the lands of the Volcae Tectosages other tribes related to them who mainly settled France in a vast area including the ancient former Gallia Cisalpina part of the current Northwestern Italy corresponding to the regions of Piedmont and Aosta Valley extending until the French Aquitaine.

It was in that time when started the defence of the local territories with the risk to loose them by the incursions of those neighbourings despite linked by the same ethnic group heritage establishing marked hierarchies and influences with the creations of clans with also  a strong desire of expansion. 

Strongly related to that are the times when they became very famous organising a campaign so far from their former domains when many centuries B.C with the desire of conquests through a long trip crossing Europe they reached lands of the current Greece and Turkey.

The name Lussan is closely linked to the Imperial Rome and it derives from the famous Roman -Gaul period with the word Luciusan meaning land of Lucius related to the Governor of those territories while the suffix an in Celtic-Gallic language means property, possession, so from that composition of the old denomination born the current name of the municipality.

After the Roman occupation and its fall a large area of that French department was invaded by Vandals, Visigoths and Moors, the latter were defeat by the Franks who started with the noble Carolingian dynasties a long cycle of rule particularly highlighted by the influential Counts de Roussillon, Counts of Toulouse and Counts of Trencavel among others.

It was definitely a period very prosperous and among the most captivating chapters of the history of France in the Middle Ages all concentrated in that magnificent area. In medieval times that corner of the country reached high levels and peaks of cultural splendour including with the presence of many artists, painters and architects who constantly embellished with their masterpieces several places including located in the most remote hamlets, all that is still visible today and one of the clear confirmations is undoubtedly Lussan.

That land before to be incorporated in the Republic was also witness of numerous battles between anti-Monarchy and Protestant rebels against the Royal troops becoming for a period a focal point of riots and revolts rejecting the rule of the former Royalty which had several difficulties to tame those movements who found in the entire Languedoc-Roussillon a relevant support from the major part of the population.

In more contemporary times after the establishment of the Republic and much more the two World Wars there was an immigration towards major centres of France and Languedoc-Roussillon and today that commune mainly lives of agriculture, small factories and partially of tourism.

The centre of that picturesque commune is surrounded by Rue Tour des Rampants, a street which is a sort of scenic ring connected to the Mairie, the Town Hall, the Chateau de Lussan, the local castle and the old square Place du Foir while Place de Marroniers represents the municipal core crossed by Rue Roger Chastanie an artery which runs from east to west crossing in those two cardinal points the local boundaries.

From that picturesque square also starts Rue de la Ritournelle which ends to the previously mentioned Rue Tour des Rampants south of the walled borders on one side of the centre while a little bit before on the right you can find Rue de la Filature which with Rue des Acacias form together a sort of second interior circle connected to the western medieval walls.

The most emblematic symbol where you can start the visit is undoubtedly the Chateau, the fortress elevated in the 15th century and today hosting local Institutions and the Town Hall. 

The structure you can admire today was probably rebuilt over another one perhaps erected three centuries before in the 12th century and confirming all that there are some rests of that old former structure visible in proximity of the current manor certified by the presence of different fragmented sections and remnants of different material much older than those of the construction you can admire nowadays.

The architecture style reflects the traditional Languedoc-Roussillon defencive fort with a typical high facade and majestic stoned walls completed by circular towers erected in correspondence of the cardinal points with ample windows, vents and slots and surmounted by rounded roofs covered by red bricks.

One of the exterior stoned walls of that fortified complex you can still see today flanks the road leading to the centre adjacent to a high restored tower in which was placed a watch in its upper section and it is one of the most relevant remnants of the former medieval stronghold. A stoned step on the left side leads across a small square located outside the fort to the main body of that imposing construction and in that place you can see a monument elevated in honour of the Lussan citizens died placed just some metres from the entrance of the building.

The castle conserves in its interior a relevant piece of the local ancient history consisting in a statue dating back the 3rd century found at the source of the Fan and it was probably part of a Roman-Gaul Temple called Fanum. That important artifact certainly confirms the importance of that small centre during the Imperial times of Rome in the times of the Consul and Governor Lucius.

Rue de la Filature is one of the historic streets of Lussan and it took that name since the 19th century because in that commune started a very active production of silk which was for long time one of the main local economical resources also exported in different centres of the Languedoc-Roussillon an activity which occupied the major part of the population in processes of productions and trade.

The Church you can admire in Lussan is called Église de Paillant erected in the 18th century and ended one century later. It is a sober Religious building established on an irregular rectangular plan highlighted in its front side by a doorway surmounted by a stoned arch supported by two columns.

Above the portal was placed a circular rose window loyal to a Neo-Romanesque inspiration as distinctive revival of the most representative new school particularly in vogue in that period inspired by the late medieval architectural style in the Languedoc Roussillon and Midi Pyrenees. In those times many artists were protagonists of those works characterising a sort of return of architectural flame  reminding those structures elevated in the Middle Ages including in the use of materials and special elements.

The facade in its layout also contains a small turret which was arranged as a sort of belfry topped by a pyramidal roof and completed by the presence of an iron cross on the top while  the main gable roof of the complex covers a plan arranged on two sides.The central body of the Church faces the square Place André Gide and another section of that construction on the left side is flanked by a charming narrow street

The history of that Church is linked to the pretty tumultuous Religious past of Lussan in a period of struggle started in the 17th century.The former inhabitants in that period embraced the Protestant Religion facing the anger of the Kingdom of France with Sovereign in that time Louis XIV who started an intense and harsh repression in that land against all the population who in many villages refused the Catholicism.

The current centre was severely attacked by the Royal troops and despite the resistance of the locals supported by Jean Cavalier a sort of local hero who led the Camisards an anti Royalty movement so famous for its numerous protests and hostility against the Royal absolutism after long battles the victorious French soldiers came in the town burning and destroying the old Church.

That name Camisard linked that rebellion derives from the word Camisada which in local dialect used in those times (Chemise in French) means shirt because the Protestant peasants always wore that kind of garment and from that the denomination.

 Historically those groups of rebels obviously in inferior number than the Monarchic regiments used tactics of guerrilla attacking the military camps at night, they organised massive assaults during the passage of troops along isolated paths and in places the soldiers did not know very well. They assaulted caravans with weapons in strategic points using hills and hidden corners of the valleys as refuges immediately after their operations.

The victory of the troops loyal to the French Crown was not easy in that land because the Camisards during their movements had all the support of a large part of the inhabitants, firstly for a Religious reason and much more because they were considered as heroes, leaders of a common cause in which they were elevated as sort of Paladins against a King not very loved at that French latitude who privileged the glitzy life of Paris and Versailles frequently snubbing the rural areas.

The Protestant religion in that corner of France has had a strong influence, very rooted, a case pretty unusual in that time considering that the South of the country in almost its totality  embraced the Catholic religion with just some cases in medieval times with protagonists the Cathars in the Midi-Pyrenees. (In the case you are interested I wrote a post regarding Montségur)

Lussan is also famous because in its boundaries spent many days Andrè Gide, that famous French writer who was Literature Nobel Prize in 1947. That Parisian artist, a tireless traveller lover of new discoveries and also considered by many people a very controversial figure. He was an extraordinary talented writer and novelist characterised by his own marked philosophies and a staunch defender of progressive ideals, he loved to enjoy long periods in that place which probably was also a great resource of his inspirations.

That character was harshly criticised for long time by the Catholic Church and his visits in Lussan were very frequent because he visited there his parents who were owners of a local farmhouse and in the municipality, his presence was of high resonance and all that is confirmed by the square on which was erected the Church bearing his name.

Lussan is located in an area as previously mentioned rich of historic artifacts, prehistoric monuments, relevant rests and signals of a very ancient life and the iconic Pierre Plantée also called Menhir de La Lèque is one of the emblematic confirmations of the ancient Celtic civilisation in that corner of Languedoc-Roussillon.

 A visit to admire that attraction is mandatory, it is a big stone, 5, 60 metres high located at approximately 5, 5 kilometres north of that Commune in La Lèque which is part of the municipal territory. Despite its notable value, It is still element of study by experienced archaeologists and historians who are trying to discover the exact age of that monumental rest. At the moment they have determined that kind of Menhir is from the Chalcolitic period equivalent to the late Neolithic era.

As in many cases with deep and exhaustive researches that dolmen was probably also a sacred and venerated symbol by the Volcae Arecomici who had a pagan polytheist religion and the Menhir Lèque is since 1910 considered patrimony of France declared Historic Monument.

It is also a must when you are in  Lussan to visit the stunning Les Gorges des Concluses along  the river Aiguillon, a spectacular natural place considered one of the most beautiful and scenic attractions of the Department du Gard including among the top ten of the most photographed sites of the entire region.

It consists in a spectacular gorge in which the course of Aiguillion flows, an impressive natural wonder to admire for hours for how nature can create authentic masterpieces with the strength of the waters able to carve solid secular rocks and practically sculpting those cliffs during its descent forming shapes simply astonishing.

You can reach by a path close to a parking area the lower section of that marvel to see the stunning opening between two high majestic rocky walls and you will be delighted by the image of that section which with the sun rays offers fantastic contrasts of colours.You will notice once there that the cliff on the right side has a sort of protruding spur which partially closes the view and reaching the shore of the river you can also see the splendid green tonality of the Auguillon with fantastic reflections in a sunny day.

Not far from that Commune, I strongly suggest you a a visit to the magnificent Parc des Cevennes which is a spectacular protected nature park showing a wonderful scenery with varied landscapes formed by verdant plateaus next to wild mountains, a place extremely rich in contrasts all to discover and enjoy metre by metre.

That fantastic natural reserve created in 1970 was listed in 2011 as agro-pastoral Cultural Patrimony site by UNESCO and it is an area highlighted by picturesque peaks as the Mount Lozère, a height of 1699,0 metres of altitude where you can see the source of the river Tarn and in addition it is also a destination for skiing during winter season.

That vast magnificent parkland offers many chances to enjoy different kinds of routes and itineraries, one of them pretty recommended is that one leading to La Cham des Bondons, a spectacular calcareous plateau at an altitude of 1200,0 metres with the opportunity to admire a big group of 154  scenic granite menhirs considered the 2nd monumental megalithic complex in Europe.

Another attraction very suggested is in a small centre called Fraissinet-de-Lòzere where you will be delighted by the stunning presence of La Cascade de Rûne, a marvellous waterfall with a drop of 58, 0 metres starting from a height of approximately 70, 0 metres in a rocky gorge flanked by two verdant forests. That striking wonder is subdivided in three sections, the first one on the top is very narrow becoming much larger in the second while in the third and last you can admire how the strength of the water was able to create a sort of natural platform before the last drop.

The Mont Aigoual with its 1567, 0 metres of altitude is a further marvel, that peak from its summit will offer you fantastic views towards the Pyrenees, the Mediterranean including an ample image of the Alps and in very sunny days you can see from there the silhouette of the giant of the Alpine chain: the Mont Blanc.

That mountain is very attractive because along its path you can enjoy in just some kilometers an impressive change of scenery, starting from a green plateau, reaching spaces highlighted by bushes and along the last stretch you will face an extraordinary vertical wall with all around a wild rugged rocky environment.

The last section of that height forms as a very scenic terrace before to reach its top and it is a destination very loved by several trekkers. Once there on its southern side you can see the source of the Hérault River which crosses during its course the town of Agde before to end in the Mediterranean.

Another place I highly suggest you is the L´Aven Armand, a magnificent and astonishing cave very famous boasting over 400,0 stalagmites and stalactites, something you will remember for a long time. That site is situated close the town of Meyureis, it was discovered in 1897 and open to the public 30 years later becoming one of the most visited places of the entire Parc de Cévennes and you will have the chance by a funicular service to reach the lower point of the cave.

The splendid Vallèe de la Cèze is another superb destination offering many chances to enjoy several wild routes characterised by authentic festivals of colours and different natural contrasts in an uncontaminated nature, an area packed by charming forests, hilly rocky plateaus with some tiny hamlets located at a different altitude extremely fascinating.

In that valley you will have the splendid opportunity to see spectacular images and bends of the Cèze river an affluent of the Rhône with villages perched on scenic promontories and one of the most distinctive local attractions consist in the Cascades du Sautated, marvellous waterfalls among the most scenic of Southern France also for the stunning environment encircling that stupendous site.

Other attractions more than relevant are to explore the Mont Bouquet and also the Reserve Naturelle des Gorges de L´Ardèche a splendid hilly oasis of peace highlighted by picturesque green landscapes and a fantastic place to enjoy among the most beautiful sunsets at that latitude. For many people is including very romantic, a magnificent land where you can breathe in the local hamlets the genuine and intact charm of the old true France.

Another site worth to be mentioned and visited in an excursion and not so far from Lussan is the iconic Mont Ventoux, that splendid peak which is also protagonist in stages of the Tour de France and nicknamed the Giant of the Provence. 


 It is undoubtedly a very special place characterised by its marvellous vegetation and flora and a captivating position which despite to be part of a massif curiously it is as an isolated body apart from the nearest other mountains with its typical Mediterranean plants highlighting its slopes and obviously if you love cycling that iconic climb is certainly for you.

Next to Lussan there are also several scenic small picturesque centres such as Verfeuil, Saint Marcel-de-Careiret and Vallerargues, all little realities but great for who love photography immortalising magnificent tiny places not very famous but of an immense fascination and beauty in the most remote Languedoc-Roussillon which is a mine of shining treasures.

Lussan can be also a more than valid place spending holidays enjoying in radial excursions the visits of historic cities apart those mentioned at the beginning of the post also Alès, Orange and Uzès, centres rich of historic monuments and linked to a noble past.A further idea is adding why not the magnificent Parc Naturelle de la Camargue which can completes a wide fan of superb attractions.I added some links below with also some recommended accommodations if you have plans to spend holidays in that land.

The excellent gastronomy you can taste in the Department du Gard is another great incentive to take in extreme consideration if you are planning holidays in that corner of France and that exquisite cuisine will delight you during your stay.

The gastronomic offer rooted in typical old traditions is present in every plate you will find there, tasting meat of high quality next to a wide range of other specialities containing genuine local ingredients and aromatic herbs flavouring many delectable stews.

You can try the tastefully and more than recommended Agneu grillé or also the ròti, respectively grilled and roast lamb and delicious is also the Gardiano also called Gardienne which is a sort of local exquisite ragu prepared with shoulder lamb strongly seasoned with thyme adding pieces of boiled potatoes, salt and olive oil.The famous Petit Pâté de Nimes is a further highlight, a very old gastronomic product since the 19th century prepared with calf and pig meat often accompanied by salads or served as starter.

Another renowned traditional speciality is the Fougasse which is a "sister" of the famed Ligurian and Genoese Focaccia, flavoured on its fragrant circular surface by extra virgin olive oil, salt and also in some variants by vegetables, onion or garlic in slices, aromatic herbs and someone also include rosemary.

Very appreciated are the local Jambons, hams which are characterised by a delicate and superb taste frequently present in appetisers and starters next to the very famous Saucisson de Vallabrégues, very typical sausages of the Department du Gard. You will find an ample variety of Cassoulets, casseroles prepared with sausages, lard, lamb adding them beans, chickpeas, onion and always seasoned with a great touch of a fine selected local wine.

The area is rich of excellent fruit such as melons, peaches, apricots and cherries products of high reputation for their juicy and sweet taste and the territory is also famous for its excellent chestnuts which are often used to prepare local cakes. You can try containing that latter the Bajana consisting in a local white chestnut soup combined with broth and milk and there is a further variant using vegetables.

Highly delicious are the local cheeses and  in particular worth a mention the famous Rogeret des Cévennes next to others equally superb such as the Rabarb, Roquefort and the Pélardon the latter produced in different places with its own denomination.Those fantastic diary masterpieces are often served in assorted buffets or mixed starters or in the case of the Roquefort  melted on meats or vegetables.

Notable is the wide selection of fine wines, very appreciated are the local smooth Chardonnay, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet-Sauvignon all them of a divine quality and there is a further endless list including many others which are very versatile and extremely palatable.

The sensational result of those great local grapes boasting all those features of a perfect product is the result of great climatic conditions of the territory combined with a more than fertile soil which has all the right compounds and properties to produce robust and excellent grapes ideal to create superb fine wines and very suggested are also supreme Fitou, a great Grenache well know for its extraordinary body and Minervois renowned for its outstanding texture and colour.

Lussan is beautiful place, ideal for all, families with children for the peace and serenity that place transmits during excursions and visits enjoying a land in which no noise, absence of traffic and a lot of attractions make that place very special spending many hours outdoor enjoying picnics and a mild climate.

Groups of friends and active people who want to practise together sports and activities as cycling or others enjoying at the same time the historic treasures of the territory with a multitude of visits will find there a spectacular place.

Also romantic couples who are looking for a corner of France transmitting its more captivating essence and spirit in a simple magic sunset surrounded by a marvellous and poetic hilly scenery will be delighted by that site.

Lovers of history of art, Travel Agents and Tour Operators, Product Managers looking for something really new and rich of alternatives with charming accommodations and stunning routes could find in Lussan and its immediate surrounding a very fertile destination to implant their ideas with a multitude of captivating itineraries.

That  land is also an superb territory to take in high consideration also for an extensive and great professional Educational and it is not difficult after that to develop new offers including those places as attractive destinations or in specific developed routes and much more less difficult when you saw all that with your eyes.

The result will be automatically a wide fan of proposals which will arise with protagonist a land as the most Languedoc-Roussillon which is simply wonderful and so rich of historic and natural attractions. It is really great to discover the beauty also in those small realities full of an important history offering all that and a multitude of things more.

Lussan is a great destination, thinking furthermore there are great combinations about flights and transports to and from Avignon, Montpellier and Nimes with important airports deciding to plan a very inviting Fly & Drive.

 Also those varied opportunities with a drop off in one and pick up of the car in another expanding furthermore the chances of different routes starting from one concrete geographic point and ending in another place is greatly convenient and certainly a fantastic incentive.

Visiting those places as that unique and scenic commune called Lussan is something special and absolutely unforgettable for all that and much more you will breathe there a traditional atmosphere of a magic corner of Southern France extremely charming and appealing so easy to love in a while.

Francesco Mari

Recommended Accommodations in Lussan 

Mas Jasmin Rural Maison
Mas de la Bousquette Rurale Maison
La Petite Auberge de Lussan 

Useful links

www.beyond.fr/villages/lussan.html

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