Arcumeggia-Italy | Scenic Village with its Open Air Frescoes Gallery.



Arcumeggia is a very charming and special destination in Italy, a very scenic village with its open air frescoes gallery well known all around the country and also abroad for magnificent works left by several notorious artists in a place simply enchanting for the great genuine, true beauty of a fascinating natural environment in the province of Varese in one of the most appealing verdant and hilly territory of Northwestern Lombardy where art and nature found the right setting for an everlasting marriage  between two beautiful picturesque green valleys called Valcuvia and Valtravaglia.


Fraction of the municipality of Casalzuigno that pleasant tiny centre is dominated by the charming silhouette of the Monte Nudo an appealing peak representing one of the local landmarks at the foothills of the Alps visible further north part of a spectacular frame absolutely charming  immediately conquering the visitor at first sight for all what there is around suc as intact forests, rugged high plateaus, a very preserved architecture and an uncontaminated atmosphere, all details transmitting feelings of peace and serenity.


That captivating fairytale site lies on the road leading to Laveno Mombello, a famed resort on the eastern shore of Lake Maggiore not far Switzerland reachable by a magnificent steep ascent with several stunning bends crossing beautiful  forests of oaks, pines and firs scattered all around a high plateau and once on the top you can admire unforgettable panoramic views towards the imposing Monte Rosa , the second Alpine giant.

Surrounded by verdant  pastures in a scenery absolutely beautiful, that village is nestled at on the top of a hill at 567,0 metres of altitude and all the immediate surroundings are very attractive with other small centres and towns with a rich historic patrimony boasting medieval , Romanesque and Baroque beauties of extreme relevance with many beautiful Churches established in strategic corners as something magically studied by the artists who embellished that territory of Northern Italy boasting a relevant patrimony including in remote hamlets and superb landscapes to immortalise in hundreds  and hundreds stupendous pictures.


All that next to the presence of those marvellous frescoes makes that village unique in its kind, a fantastic proposal for all the natural beauty and art lovers in the Italian Peninsula  because in the last decades that site i closely linked to the prestigious Accademia delle Belle Arti di Brera of Milan, the famed academy of fine art of the second city of the country which elevated that site as cultural  patrimony of the region and of the entire Nation.
 
Many are others reasons to select Arcumeggia as tourist destination or stage in tailor made tour, that land is fantastic place to enjoy a magnificent territory where a greatly preserved nature is protagonist and all the high plateaus and forests encircling its boundaries are a paradise for trekking, an outdoor activity very loved by many people who can find there several enchanting trails immersed in an intact woodland. it is enough to mention the nearest ascent to the Monte Nudo at 1237,0 metres of altitude as a sort of starter before to plan day by day an endless list of itineraries all around with other splendid heights surrounding that little jewel for the daily joy of the lovers of that activity.

 
That neighborourhood of Casalzuigno is surrounded by three lakes such as Lake Lugano, Varese and the mentioned Maggiore and certainly all that is a wonderful incentive to enjoy water sports and many historic and charming destinations on the shore of those splendid waters basins and a fourth as the iconic Lake Como is just one hour away by car.

The road leading to the pass of Zenna at the Italian-Swiss border crosses a very attractive area highlighted by a unique horizon with the constant view of towering Alpine peaks has always attracted tourists, cyclists and people searching relaxing breaks in constant contact with a beautiful environment offering a great opportunity to reach in a very short time Switzerland, a further fantastic incentive with the chance to visit another superb country packed by historic and natural attractions.

That land which includes Arcumeggia is an Eden for cycling with many wonderful routes and itineraries and its enough to mention a legendary name as Alfredo Binda, one of the most famed cyclists of the history of that sport born in the nearest Cittiglio who always trained on those roads. Simply the name of that iconic champion is certainly a great invitation to visit his birthplace and testing the several challenging climbs that territory offers and there are so many to fill an entire holiday for all those who love an active stay practising cycling on road.

The same for mountain bikers who will find in that place but also in the nearest municipalities of Azzio, Castelveccana, Brenta, Cuveglio, Duno and Porto Valtravaglia the perfect habitat for that speciality with mixed, dirt trails of immense beauty, perfect to test performances along many local exciting trails  with different coefficients of difficulty.

Linked to all that Arcumeggia is located in a territory which was since ancient times a relevant historic cross point of merchants, monks and artists who used a frequented old road which from Luino, a prestigious resort on the northeastern coast of Lake Maggiore crossing the Valcuvia valley reached the city of Varese.

That path was originally the unique way present along that land crossing the local hills and valleys and today corresponding to the current provincial Road the Strada Provinciale 7. It was since many centuries ago the main communication for the first settlers and it is undoubetly an excellent inspiration for all those who love that exciting activity called cycle tourism to retrace in modern key that old route.

The relaxing and uncontaminated atmosphere makes Arcumeggia a great climatic destination, ideal to spend pleasant days far from pollution, stress and noise, very appreciated by many people who once reached the boundaries of that scenic village find a haven simply perfect to recharge batteries and with extreme tranquillity they can visit other equally peaceful places very attractive at short distance delighted by scenic landscapes which soothe mind and soul.

Land of tourism, art, culture, and kind people, that corner of Lombardy is extremely loved by many photographers, you will find very comfortable accommodations and also the opportunity to taste a delicious genuine homemade cuisine.


Also the local history is highly interesting and according to excavations which took place all around the current boundaries the territory was inhabited since the Neolithic times attested by the finding of relevant artifacts, objects and items linked to that era.

The name Arcumeggia according to historic researches and documentations derives from the composition of the words Arx and Media. The first means rock and it is derived by a rocky cut visible on the heights of the municipality while the second corresponds to in the middle and that is related to the geographic position between two valleys  which are the previously mentioned Valcuvia and Valtravaglia.

The first settlement was developed by the Celtic Insubri, an ancient population who lived in the provinces of Como, Varese but also in the Swiss Canton of Ticino in area of Lugano, Mendrisio and also in Piedmont not far from Lake Maggiore and the Pre-Alps of the current province of Verbania-Cusio Ossola.

Those former settlers met other Celts, the Ligurians coming from south exactly from the territories of the current Liguria region and probably they formed a unique ethnic group entering in contact with
a colony of  Etruscans who from their motherland Tuscany reached many territories of the Northern Italic peninsula  establishing first relationships with the locals based on small trades and cultural interchanges. 

Those populations were mainly devoted to farmers and agriculture before to be assimilated by the Romans who led a massive colonisation during their campaigns towards the Gaul and they started
to use the Latin the official language of the Empire

During the times linked to the Roman period that area became an Imperial base of relevance hosting a military camp, suitable for troops, families of the soldiers and officers  developed in that geographic point considered of strategic importance due to the proximity of the foothills of the Alps immediately beneath relevant passes which were used as transit for the Imperial expansion in Central Europe.

In that land was founded a Castrum, a defencive headquarter of the legions as bastion facing the invasions of Gallic tribes and the Alemanni, a German tribe coming from the area of the river Main who crossing the current Switzerland invaded more than once the Italic Peninsula since the times of the Emperor Caracalla.

The history of the village continued in medieval times with different rulers after the fall of Rome with incursions of different invaders and those territories became sparsely populated due to the exodus of the former locals towards safer centres. 

The Lombards before and later the  Franks gave during their period of domination a more marked political relevance with a defined territorial subdivision and an improvement of the communications with the establishment of new routes developed on the previous traced by the predecessors. 

In particular the second linked to Charlemagne and the Carolingians were also protagonists elevating different check points and fortified sections to defend Sacred Roman Empire in a period correponding to the first chapters of an emergent feudalism. 

After the succession inside that dynasty  in the Middle Ages those lands were highlighted by numerous disputes of local Lords with continuous clashes to conquer more and more territories establishing rigid systems of government favouring the highest social class and the ascent of aristocratic families who ruled former counties and sub-counties with farmers and artisans working as humble vassals in change of modest residences to survive.

 All that continues later when they found support of the noble families of Como and the Dukes of Milan which characterised long years of battles with the victory of the Milanese House who established with the Visconti family  one of its domain in the current province of Varese. The fall of that noble Duchy took place with the defeat against the Swiss League, new paladins of the Protestant Calvinism who including invaded the Italic territories of those former rulers.


A large part of the the current northern province was for a brief period occupied by some Swiss divisions before to fall under French domain in a period famous for the war between Catholics and Protestant with France establishing its influence in that area to defend the interest of the Papal State as bastion facing possible Religious influence not tolerated by the Vatican.

For a very short time there was also an occupation by the Aragonese House but quickly replaced by the French troops led by Napoleon Bonaparte who entered in those territories with the intention to abolish the Feudalism but establishing a rigid military regime in a period highlighted by several repressions. In 1809 Napoleon with a decree annexed Arcumeggia to the nearest village of Vergobbio  and three years later to another called Cuvio.

In the successive historic stage after the fall of that leader of France in the early 19th century the Austrian Empire with the Hapsburg House ruled that geographic area incorporating that small centre in the Reign of Lombardy of Veneto, a Kingdom depending from Vienna which included four important regions of Northern Italy.


In those times there were several reforms in terms of territorial borders with already defined future provinces and a special development of several new productive processes in terms of agriculture, breeding and artisanal activities despite numerous riots, popular revolts and partisan struggles all around the local hills against the troops of the Emperor Franz Josef I with numerous battles village by village.

The defeat of the Austrian Empire divisions in the proximity of Como in the battle of San Fermo against the army the Savoy House former Sovereigns of the Kingdom of Piedmont and Sardinia determined the annexation of Arcumeggia into the new Reign of Italy with capital Turin officially proclaimed in 1861 continuing its history until nowadays in the current Republic.


That neighbourhood of Casalzuigno has always had a very peaceful life in a stunning natural Eden with its small old historic centre well preserved absolutely outstanding encircled by green heights packed by forests in which agriculture, farms and pastures have always represented the main local resources also in more contemporary times.

When you enter into that picturesque village dominated by the Monte Nudo you will immediately find a pretty wide parking are and from there you can start the visit with the adjacent charming Chiesa di Sant´ Ambrogio, a splendid Religious construction dedicated to St. Ambrose erected in the 18th century and elevated as local Parish Church.

Along a stoned step leading to its entrance on walls established on its sides you can admire a  painted Via Crucis depicting the the 14 stations of Jesus Christ along his Cross way towards the Calvary Mount represented by fine works greatly executed by 11 different artists.

The architectural design of that stoned Sacred building was developed as a stunning inspiration of a fine revival loyal to a traditional replica of a period Romanesque style in a period highlighted in Lombardy by a fervent artistic desire to reproduce the finest Medieval art which left important cultural imprints in many artistic schools  forgetting for a while the most in vogue Baroque architecture which was becoming in many centres the predominant movement.

Developed on a pretty long rectangular plan the Chiesa di Sant; Ambrogio is highlighted by a beautiful high gable facade containing in its layout a splendid framed portal with small vaults and above it was placed a scenic curved window. Notable are the stoned outlines all around the front side with a roof surmounted by a cross.

Behind the main body of the Church was elevated a stoned bell tower developed on a square base partially hidden by an angle of the roof, it boasts a beautiful curved belfry established above a circular watch with roman numbers and relevant is the presence of some inlays works made on its facades.In its interior you can admire a wide nave with a charming Baroque altarpiece appreciating the balanced layout corresponding to the apse and the chancel.
  
You can continue the visit of the village coming into its very charming core consisting in a maze of picturesque narrow cobbled streets and alleys which have kept their former identity and aspect. That very appealing environment transmits in a while a pleasant sensation of a sort of returning to the past and all that in a very peaceful atmosphere. Along them you can admire on the walls of reformed houses those beautiful frescoes which are the emblematic symbol of the heart of Arcumeggia in all its spledour boasting that notable artistic patrimony. 

In 1956 the Tourism Board and Institutions of the Province of Varese decided to transform that beautiful tiny scenic site in all what you can admire nowadays, a true splendid open air frescoes Gallery and since then started the success, consolidation and final affirmation of the village which year by year gained popularity and a notable brilliant escalation with many tourists starting to visit with extreme interest that place.

The major part of magnificent artistic works were executed in that year elevating since then Arcumeggia among the most important in Italy, Europe and in World boasting those outstanding outdoor marvels of art in street which makes that place an open air art museum unique in its kind.

Those votive frescoes are protagonists with different kinds of representations painted in different size and also style, what is really very impressive is the scenic and strategic positions in which they were placed forming next to the local architectural environment a very harmonious setting conquering everyone in a while. Nothing is bizarre or peculiar all was perfectly studied to preserve the local image simply embellished and adorned with those fine works by renowned artists and all that is greatly appreciated because no one ruined a corner or a simple hidden alley with something of anomalous.

Those masterpieces visible on the walls of a scenic old scene are simply stunning and we are talking about true frescoes not murales or other derived arts using different techniques. The relevant importance of those original kinds of works is that they were executed upon freshly laid lime plaster with colours ground up in water and all painted on wet walls, no one is a vulgar imitation, all that is extremely authentic made in its most traditional and true technique and also for that that open air gallery gained prestige and fame.

Those fantastic artistic wonders were developed using that old and traditional phase called Sinopia which since the Middle Ages represented the draft, the initial layer of paint as its original dna, a sort of identity card of a work. That process was used by the most important masters creating the start-up of their masterpieces and to mention just one the iconic artistic school of Pisa was one of the relevant cradles about that.That kind of operation including was focused in an careful study of the material on which the work was executed  with a special attention also in the consistence of the paints and nothing of improvised.

The frescoes you can admire are an extensive representation depicting different themes such as Religion, life, ancient and more recent times including sport with one depicting cycling with some champions of the past as protagonists.

What is simply great is that you can admire the different styles of those artists coming from varied schools using different lines, colours, shapes of human figures, different perspectives, size of frames and backgrounds. In many executions you will notice uses of varied shades and lights and also all that is definitely another superb attraction comparing and admiring one by one the imprint and true marks of all those artists.

The fame of those masterpieces by several acclaimed and notorious painters who left in Arcumeggia a remarkable patrimony are  superb gems by prominent Masters who participated to many prestigious and considerable exhibitions in Lombardy, Italy and Worldwide.

If you are fond about art, probably you know someone of them, the list is long but all them deserve to be mentioned simply for the reason that with their frescoes gave international importance to a humble village able to conquer the attention and great appreciation of many people  and they are : Giovanni Brancacci, Remo Brindisi, Aldo Carpi, Christopher De Amicis, Gioxe De Micheli, Gianni Dova, Umberto Faini, Fayer Carlo, Ferruccio Ferrazzi, Barbara Galbiati, Francesco Menci, Joseph Migneco, Sante Monachesi, Giuseppe Montanari, Luigi Montanarini, Enzo Morelli, Massimo Parietti, Bruno Saetti, Innocent Salvini, Aligi Sassu, Fiorenzo Tomea, Eugenio Tomiolo, Ernesto Treccani, Carmelo Nino Found and Gianfilippo Usellini.

Strolling the picturesque cobblestone narrow streets of that fairytale village which in its kind its is an extremely local scenic highlight for their suggestive image you can also visit a courtyard preserving the works of talented students who participate to frescoes courses. Those future artists are a sort of continuation of that generation who left that unique treasure in that place and maybe or probably they will be famous in future leaving something of important in Arcumeggia or perhaps in other places.

All the works displayed are by selected students of fine art and in summer season protagonists in the famous Corsi Internazionali di estivi Affresco, frescoes international summer courses organised by the famous Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera of Milan visitable in the namesake district of the second Italian city. (In the case you are interested I wrote a post about the quarter where is established that iconic Institution)

That famous Fine Arts Academy with seat in the historic core of the Capital of Lombardy is well known to have produced several artists of International fame it is enough to mention just in painting and not in other kinds of arts two former famed pupils such as Carlo Car and Giovanni Segantini and it is in constant contact with the village.A further highlight is that to visit  the Casa del Pittore, the House of the Painter displaying in its interior very interesting drawings.

Arcumeggia hosts art but it is also the birthplace of a prominent artist called Giuseppe Vittorio Cerini, a distinguished sculptor with important works in different important Italian cities and towns such as Turin, Varese and Bra near Cuneo but also abroad where he worked with success in Argentina and Switzerland.In commemoration of that talented man you can admire today a small collection of plaster casts in the backyard of his native house and also two relevant marble works placed in the local cemetery.

In the narrow street Vicolo Malcotti there is in addition an exhibition called Sangalleria organising expositions, cultural events and artistic activities to keep alive the great artistic acitivity  started in the 50's in  Arcumeggia.

I suggest you once you are spending a stay there some visits of high interest and in  Casalzuigno you can admire Villa Della Porta Bozzolo, a fabulous mansion erected in the 16th century highlighted by fabulous gardens developed in the 18th century, a superb masterpiece and expression of the most stylish Giardino All´Italiana which will delight you.

During your planned excursions in the area you can also enjoy in the surroundings of that site many other very interesting places, starting from the nearest wild and picturesque valleys. One of them is the beautiful Valtravaglia greatly highlighted by stunning landscapes and a notable historic patrimony, a wonderful place you can not miss if you love nature, peaceful places, small towns and villages but rich of history and monuments.


 I recommend you to visit Germignaga, a marvellous small municipality on the shore of Lake Maggiore in a splendid position at the foot of the Pre-Alps and a further one is Porto Valtravaglia, highly captivating for its scenic tiny bay  with a charming little harbour next to a splendid small peninsula.

The pleasant atmosphere in that natural paradise also offers the chance for all those who love trekking the ascent to the nearest Monte Nudo reaching an altitude of 1237,0 metres. That peculiar name “Nudo” means naked and that denomination because until 1970 that peak started to have a lack of vegetation due to landslides and a cut of the former forest  on its slopes so for that it was called with that unusual denomination.

That height is reachable by a beautiful path with a notable change of scenery, at the beginning you will start from a green plateau crossing a wide pine forest and once reached 1000, 0 metres of altitude the trail apart to be much more steeper boasts a rugged environment. Once on the top you will find a Christian Cross and the effort will be gratified by unique and fantastic panoramic images.

From the summit of that mount you will have a magnificent view overlooking the stunning Lake Maggiore, the coastal resort of Luino, the Valtravaglia valley, and also the Swiss Canton of Ticino and. that is certainly a great chance to take numerous pictures to to remember forever.  That excursion is very suggested to all people who are passionate trekkers but also for photographers who will have a great opportunity to perform an outstanding work and obviously for all those who desire to admire something of simply wonderful.

Another suggested place is the Monte Crocetta, a very scenic peak offering other striking views of that waters basin and the the valleys of the province reaching the top of that height at 1117,0 metres of altitude. The path leading to the summit of that height crosses a large forest and the last section is highlighted by some scenic very sharp spurs. In the last year that site became a beloved destination by people fond of paradigling so if you love that kind of activity  that is a right place for you.

The area surrounding those two mountains is very recommended for mountain bikers with many trails in those concrete geographic points, very challenging with mixed and dirt routes highly ssimply stunning with steep descents and challenging climbs between forests and cliffs reaching impressive high crests.

The Swiss Border is not far and you can have a brilliant option to visit the splendid Canton of Ticino with its several magnificent attractions such as Locarno, Ascona and Lugano (I wrote posts about them in the case you are interested) but also Bellinzona and the area of Mendrisio  offer a multitude of marvels to enjoy in a great radial excursion.

Naturally due to the proximity you can also visit the Lombardy coastline of Lake Maggiore one of the pearls of Italy with the nearest and famous resorts of Luino and Laveno, famous tourist destinations and enjoying a spectacular lake cruise reaching the other shore in Piedmont with the stupendous Stresa with its fantastic Borromean Archipelago, the stunning Baveno and much more.

Also Varese is a city highly recommended  with its Sacromonte, well known to be inscribed on the UNESCO list of World Heritage sites in 2003 with its wonderful Chapels scattered on its slopes leading to its marvellous Sanctuary, great is the  Campo dei Fiori, a splendid height offering unforgettable views and its small Lake with the chance to practise on that waters basin rowing and kayak.That centre is also famous for its numerous villas and mansions many of them elevated in a refined liberty style, it boasts stylish parks and outstanding gardens and in addition it is a perfect place for shopping.

 Arcumeggia is very close to Cittiglio, a town situated just 9,0 kilometres away well known to be the famous birthplace of a great champion of cycling called Alfredo Binda, winner of the First Edition of  the World Cycling Championship. That emblematic cyclist won that title three times in 1927, 1930 and 1932 and furthermore five Giro d´Italia, three Giro di Lombardia and trained in his young age on those roads daily climbing the ascent leading to the village of the frescoes.

For all that the local area is also a land very loved by several passionate cyclists who desire to visit the place where was born that unforgettable champion of the past in a sort of pilgrimage and once there testing the spectacular, panoramic routes and that magic aura surrounding those places which saw that legendary character cycling every day in that territory during his trainings.

That town apart that and its stunning scenery also has some historic sites of relevance. I recommend you to visit the Chiesa di San Biagio, a splendid Church dedicated to St. Blaise dating back medieval times erected in the 13th century situated on a scenic hill and in that very pleasant centre worth a mention its Parish Church, the Chiesa di San Giulio dedicated to St. Julius and elevated in 17th century.

Como and Milan are not far and also those two great destinations can complete a vast range of visit and excursions filling your days with two cities boasting a notable patrimomy, an excellent idea if you will plan a holiday with a stay in Arcumeggia.

The local cuisine extremely loyal to its oldest traditional and a culinary art deeply rooted in the spirit of the inhabitants has conserved an intact gastronomic identity with very old traditional recipes transmitted generation by generation. 

The Riso in Cagnún is a local speciality with a secular history consisting in rice  cooked with a big quantity of butter, parmesan cheese, garlic, onion and sage.Very typical is also the famed Risotto prepared in different styles as the traditional with saffron, onion, butter and fine white wine but also with fresh mushrooms, asparagus, Salsicce, local sausages and cheeses. 

The Minestrone di Verdure is another common dish generally served at dinner, a very rich rice soup adding various vegetables such as carrots, beans, spinach, celery, zucchini, potatoes, tomatoes, peas seasoned with basil, onion, garlic, salt and olive oil.

A very old plate is the Asparagi e Uova, a combination of fresh asparagus fried with butter a touch of olive oil and salt  adding on the top fried or scramble eggs and covered by a gratin of Parmesan. The famed Gnocchi Burro e Salvia prepared with fresh butter, sage, a bit of pepper and on the top a good quantity of grated Parmesan cheese and it is another speciality pretty common in that land.

Very popular is the Polenta prepared with cheeses or simply with butter, onion adding a ragu of beef meet.It can be also combined with a typical plate called Bruscitt, a stew made with minced beef fennel seeds, butter, salt, cloves and wine or with emblematic Brasato consisting in big slices of beef in sauce.

In the area there is also a good production of homemade cheeses among them the iconic and delectable Formaggella del Luinese DOP similar for taste to that made in the nearest Swiss Canton of Ticino and in the province of Como and you can  also find an exquisite Salametto Nostrano, a homemade salami of excellent quality with a delicious soft taste.

The local forests are rich of Porcini and Chiodini mushrooms often present in stews, ideal to prepare sauces and different casseroles or preserved in olive oil and served in appetisers, or assorted buffets.Another higlight is the chestnut largely present in all the local woodland and used for jams, sauces, cakes and several bakery products.

It is not difficult to reach Arcumeggia. If you are in Milan downtown you have to take the A8 Motorway leading to Varese and once there at the exit of that city continuing towards Laveno along the Road Strada Provinciale Laveno-Varese. When you are in proximity of Cittiglio follow the indications Luino- Zenna and then Gemonio and Cuveglio. In a short time you will be in Casalzuigno ready for the last climb which will accompany you to Arcumeggia, that picturesque and suggestive village. The trip is approximately one hour and 45 minutes in normal conditions of traffic.

If you land Milan Malpensa Airport situated 41,0 kilometres away  you can take the mentioned motorway following the same route from there and in about one hour driving you will be at destination.In the case you are planning holidays in that Italian corner I suggest you some accommodations in some links below to have a comfortable stay and some useful information.

Arcumeggia is a very interesting, charming and scenic village very attractive for its greatly preserved environment and naturally those masterpieces highlighting that outstanding open air frescoes gallery will delight you encircled by a beautiful oasis of peace and serenity where art and nature are melted in a splendid combination surrounded by magnificent landscapes all to enjoy and keep alive in your memories.





Francesco Mari 


Recommended Accommodations in Arcumeggia area

 
B&B Antico Borgo Sanda
B&B Il Cortile
Hotel La Bussola  at Cittiglio  

Useful links




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