Salbertrand-Italy | Magnificent Alpine Nature Parks and Art of Piedmont.


Salbertrand is a splendid town of Italy so attractive thanks to the presence of Alpine nature parks and significant art in the region of Piedmont.

 Situated in Val di Susa a valley which is part of  the County of Turin that land has everything to attract tourists for a multitude of aspects such as its nature,culture,the the Alps a rich culture and historical patrimony,small picturesque towns and villages located at the foot of captivating peaks often surrounded by verdant forests and crossed by rivers formed by glaciers.

There are so several stunning places in that valley and one of them is Salbertrand,a centre which is situated approximately 80,0 kilometres west of the Capital of the Region Turin a short distance from the charming resort of Bardonecchia and very close to Oulx not far from the famous Col de Sestriere.

Situated at an altitude of 1033,0 metres the name as you can notice is of clear of French origin because despite that municipality is in Italian territory its history was for a long period linked to the French Province of Dauphiné.

Due to its strategical position along the Alpine passes linking Piedmont to France Salbertrand has often been an important transit and cross point for trade and passage of different civilisations which have left important cultural influences and marks in architecture,monuments,traditions,language and gastronomy.

The local official languages are the Italian and the local Patois.I mentioned that language in other posts about towns of the Region Val D´Aosta,the local population speaks that language which is an old French Occitaine deriving from ancient Romande classified in the list of the Gallic -Romande languages.

The major part of the inhabitants also speak a fluent French for culture,tradition and the proximity of the border with France in a territory in which were developed ancient relationships.

The Val do Susa was originally inhabited since prehistoric times according excavations in the local areas.The first settlers were Celt populations subdivided in tribes probably related to Celt Ligurian groups coming from South and assimilated later by the Romans in occasion of the Imperial campaigns towards the Gallic lands in the current France.

After the fall of the Imperial Rome the local territory was protagonist of invasions and conquests and settled in different periods by Goths,Byzantines,Lombard, Frank and also invaded by  Hungarians after Charles Magne death.

The current municipality was later a domain of Arduino a direct descendant of the first Carolingian dynasties who became in the 10th century Count of the territories and Lord of Turin.

In the 11th century during the times of  Otto III the Holy Roman Emperor that historic charismatic figure gave the settlement the name Sala Bertani.The Emperor donated that land to the Marquis of Turin Olderico Manfredi who married the noble Berta D´Este from the name of that aristocratic lady the original name inscribed in historic documentations.The nobles donated later the land to the Religious Order of the Benedictines of the Abbey of San.Giusto Susa.

That one is a first version about the name Salbertrand because there is another one previous to those historic events and probably dating back the Lombard period when that place was identified with the name as Sala Berthana.

Sala was an acient term to classify a sort of farmhouse owned by nobles or people of high social ranking to while Berthana is probably derived by the name of the owners Berth or Bertha,a clear name of German origin.From those two versions the current name Salbertrand who was changed in the Francophone form after the domination of French speaking lords.

After a period under the Marquis of Turin rule in the 11th century the town became part before of the Dauphine a large and powerful French County and later incorporated in the Kingdom of France.

Despite the establishment of a Reign in France it was a historic period  in that country in which several Counties and Duchies did not accept with enthusiasm the influence of a Monarchy for obvious reasons of local domains and autonomy and apart the Dauphiné another one was the powerful Duchy of Savoy famous to be the future ruler of the Kingdom of Italy. 

The area including the municipality was a place of battles and  wars between the French Monarchy and the Duchy of Savoy troops and during those long disputes the Dukes of Savoy established a sort of  alliance with the Protestant Vaudois of the Val Pellice a Piedmont Valley in the Cottian Alps located on the Italian-French border.

Very famous and historically remembered was the Battle of Waldesian Protestant Church an important historic event whch was also called the Glorieuse Rentrée,which means the Glorious return and in Salbetrand was placed a plaque remembering that battle dated 3rd September 1689.

The long disputes between France and the Savoy Dukes continued until the early 18th century when after a long war between those two contenders and the treaty of Utrecht in Holland there was a review of the territories with Salbetrand which moved under the influence of the future Royal Dynasty of Piedmont and Sardinia future Royal House of Italy in change of territories of the current Savoy annexed to France.

During the fascist dictatorship in Italy between the 30s and 40s, the name of the town was changed and it was called Salabertano,Salbetrand regained its original Francophone name in use since the days of the Savoy in 1947.

Two years after the end of the the 2nd World War there was a new design of maps and a comprehensive restoration of names of villages and localities changed during the previous period and that is in short the local history of that town.

In the heart of the Val di Susa,the centre is surrounded by picturesque mountains some of them with an altitude of over 3000,0 metres as the Cima del Vallonetto,the unique view of the emblematic Pointe Sommeiller and the magnificent chain of the Cottian Alps are an enchanting frame around the town. .


The municipality is part for some kilometres of the plain of Oulx a nearest town historically linked to Salbetrand about the chronological historic events of the Val di Susa and another iconic symbol of the territory is the the Dora Riparia river which with its over 120,0 kilometres of course crosses all the valley.

Other marvellous attractions are the splendid forests of the The Parco Naturale del Gran Bosco a protected nature park situated in the local territory,a natural Eden all to discover for its immense beauty.

The town is the result of several scattered small hamlets such as Rival,Gorges,Plans,San Romano,  Deveys, Moncellier,Eclause,Oulms,Fenils,Seu,Combes,Frenées,the last three are areas practically uninhabited.All them have kept their genuine image and identity and also for that the town captures the attention at first sight and in many corners of the municipality what the visitor will note is like a jump in the past.

The centre of the town is mainly arranged behind the river Dora which is flanked by the Motorway E70 Turin Bardonecchia.The core of Salbertrand was around its Municipio the Town Hall and the charming medieval Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista the Church dedicated to St.John Baptist.

The long Via Roma is a street which crosses almost the entire municipal territory from north east to south east embracing Via Gros another important artery which continues towards the western boundary of the town,while Via delle Faune adjacent to that street leads to the northern residential area of the municipality. 

Via Chenebieres is another important axis which practically connects the eastern extra radius coming in the historic centre embracing Via Roma.

The core of that place is very captivating with narrow cobblestone streets and alleys,charming restored renaissance houses and buildings with wooden flowered balconies with that splendid images of the magnificent Alps which dominate all the surroundings.

The current Church of St.John Baptist is the emblematic local historical symbol.Erected in the mid 11th century in a typical medieval Romanesque style it changed its aspect in the early 16th century when it was rebuilt in a Neo- Gothic revival style keeping anyway in its aspect some of its former architectonic details.

Developed on a rectangular plan the main stoned facade consists in an ample portico with a huge arcade formed by strong columns.Under that splendid architectonic masterpiece,a relevant work for size and symmetry there is charming wooden portal surmounted by a fresco depicting the Deposition of Jesus Christ and vaulted lunettes.On the he top of the wall you can also admire a splendid relief decoration under the vaults of the portico.

The architectonic style has a undoubtedly a strong French influence for materials used in the construction, decorative elements,details and decorations are very similar to many Churches you can admire in the Haute Savoie and Dauphiné regions.

The presence of of a Coat of Arms with two dolphins confirms all that.Those two marine mammals are the symbol of the Dauphiné clear historic symbol which linked Salbertrand to the French Region is very evident.

In addition you will notice the Fleur de Lis,the lily flower which is also the emblematic symbol of the French Monarchy also present in the Coat of Arms.As you know that flower was the the heraldic symbol of the first French Capetian dynasty since the 10th century.Despite that strong French influence during the construction of the Church were also called many Italian artists to embellish that notable Religious building.

The gable roof is in perfect harmony with the high bell tower which was erected on a square plan and that architectonic element is the survivor of the former Church although restored and re arranged in other occasions.Currently it consists in eight blocks and the last three were added in the 18th century conserving the other five as base to further raise the tower.

A special highlight of that acred Temple is the presence of magnificent Renaissance frescoes dated 15th and 16th century apart the first you can see at the entrance over the doorway there are others on the right side.

The interior is arranged on three nave with splendid symmetrical arcades and a vaulted roof and you can admire frescoes depicting Saint Blaise and the life of St.Anthony among others.Many of those beautiful works were restored and  they show perfect lines in harmony of colours and perspectives as the original development.  

Beautiful are also the columns with decorated capitals placed in symmetry along the central nave leading to a charming altar developed in a spacious apse under a vaulted dome.

The Baroque altarpiece has a splendid image depicting the Patron St.John Baptist flanked by two wooden statues representing St.Roque and St,John.Another detail which give light and charm next to those magnificent frescoes embellishing the environment is the presence of splendid crystal chandeliers.That Church is considered one of the best examples of art of the entire valley for the numerous relevant works which it contains.

The Renaissance historic patrimony of Salbertrand is also present in Piazza San Rocco a charming cobblestone square flanked by lovely houses arranged on two and three stories with  flowered wooden balconies and carved doors.

Next to that place you will notice an old lavatoio a stoned wash under a portico covered by a wooden roof and there is another one developed in an octagonal shape dated 16th century and a further rectangular built in the same  period situated in a charming corner next to a stoned arch which leads to a picturesque narrow street.

The Parco Naturale del Gran Bosco,the Nature Park of the Great Forest is of course one of the most charming highlights of Salbertrand.

That park is a fantastic full immersion to discover how is beautiful the Val Di Susa rich in pine forests,a big number of red and white firs and a a very relevant fauna which included chamois,marmots and ibex,species totally protected in that area.

Apart those beautiful animals,the area also offers the opportunity to admire several species of birds there are approximately 80 so a great chance for who is fond about ornithology.

The Institution which manages the park has worked in the last decades very well preserving in the best way a territory which is the pride of the local community becoming a major tourist attraction and also highlighted by wonderful paths crossing the  pristine forests in the heart of the Piedmont Alps.

That protected nature reserve stretches from the boundaries of the town joining the Val di Susa to the nearby Chisone limited by the Strada dell´Assietta a spectacular dirt narrow road of  about 60,0 kilometres a great attraction for mountain bikers with several changes of slopes in an authentic Alpine paradise which is a mandatory for all those who want and desire discover the secrets and the beauty of the Cottian Alps.

Around that magnificent road there are also several trails to enjoy hiking and trekking in an unique scenery with unforgettable panoramic views.

On a side of that wonderful natural oasis the park reaches other neighbouring municipalities such as Oulx and Chiomonte.

Along the limits of that extensive land the Institutions responsible of the preservation and visit of the Parco Naturale del Gran Bosco has well-marked the indications of the most important entrances of the park such as Lauson,Blegier and also Costaplana and from those points the visitor can start marvellous excursions along many paths traced leading to wonderful corners of the valley.

Linked to the Parco Naturale del Gran Bosco is the Ecomuseo Colombano Romean,the local Tourism Board and Piedmont Region have arranged that open air museum with the intention to show the visitor the local life of the past in the Val di Susa.

The name is from a miner who was an iconic symbol of the local community,a man who working hard in the 16th century started important operations.That man developed a tunnel called the Trou de Touilles at over 2000,0 metres of altitude and long approximately half kilometres.

That work dated 1526 was very relevant because it could channel the waters of the stream Touilles giving life to an area which never had works of that kind and used later by several people.
 
You can also admire historic and monumental places as the old Chapel of the small  neighbourhood Oulmé which is the place in which the Waldesians and the French army were protagonists in occasion of the battle dating back 17th century.

That area is furthermore very relevant because it was once the most important local site for the extraction of stones.In that neighbourhood another point part of the route of the Ecomuseo is a wooden oven totally restored and still working.


Another attraction is an ancient water mill with over 8 centuries of life erected in the 12th century which served the population of Salbetrand grinding agricultural crops.The mill was used for gastronomic purposes as bread and other products derived by wheat while later in the it was also used for works linked to the production of hemp which was another important activity in that area of Piedmont with a long tradition.

In the early 20th century that place started to be used as generator of electricity collecting the local waters and in its interior the visitor can have the chance to admire the well preserved millstones learning how they worked admiring the entire system of that historic mill.

The Ecomuseo also includes an old Ghiacciaia a generator of ice which served several municipalities including Turin,Ivrea,the area of Sestriere and some French villages too.

That strong stoned building with an arched entrance lies close a forest and it was erected in the 19th century.For long time it was an important site and engine of the local economy and the ice produced there was transported on carriages to those places mentioned before.

Due its high historic value it was restored some years ago respecting the original design and it is a local pride also because provided that important resource to important centres as the Capital of Piedmont.

The Carbonaia,also called in local Patois La Charbunhera was another productive place of Salbertrand a site in which were collected carbon and timber and you can see the place in which was developed that activity at the border of a green charming forest.

On that educational path the visitor can also discover a site with some rests of the old Calcara where were made materials for construction as lime,which was another activity developed in the boundaries of Salbertrand since centuries ago providing that material to architects and artists for their works.

Another relevant historic attraction that splendid place offers it is linked to an ancient path called the Route de Francs  which was since the times of Charlemagne a trail used by the Carolingian dynasties who ruled that land and developed that road in the local mountains.

That trail also reached a notable relevance also became an important cross point of merchants coming from the Haute Savoy and Savoy directed to the most important marketplaces of Piedmont.

The proximity of Sestriere,Pragelato,Oulx,Bardonecchia and other distinguished resorts offers the opportunity to enjoy Winter Sports at high level with excellent services and facilities

.A multitude of beautiful excursions is another highlight of Salbertrand,in a very short time you can reach Briançon a French town,medieval jewel of the French Haute Alpes,the same if you want to visit Turin a city rich in art and history and first Capital of Italy and many other destinations in Piedmont and in the nearest France.

Climbing in the area of Col de Sestriere and the proximity of two other nature Parks such as the Parco Naturale della Val Troncea and the Parco Naturale Orsiera-Rocciavré situated very close are other great incentive including to enjoy trekking and hiking in an area so rich of unforgettable attractions and along the river Dora there are very relaxing paths admiring the wild course of that Alpine waterway.

The cuisine is Val di Susa is excellent.The Polenta is one of the traditional specialities Polenta and Salsicce (Polenta with sausages) is a traditional recipe using excellent local pork sausages preapred with a sauce including tomato,garlic,onion,salt an d pepper or often accompanied by a wide selection of cheeses as the local Toma but also other delicious cheeses such as Murianen,Reblochon and Plaisentif

All them are very appreciated for their genuinity also used in starters,appetisers but also combined in local plates including risotti and gnocchi.The risotto is also prepared in that Italian area also with mushrooms a product which is largely present in the forests of the Val di Susa .

 Excellent in particular the beef and veal meats with a wide selections of stews,roasts and soups.The Brasato al Barolo is a plate very traditional in all the region of Piedmont.It is a beef stew cooked with some vegetables,such as celery,laurel,carrots,cinnamon,butter,garlic,onions,cloves,pepper,olive oil,salt and the highlight is obviously as says the name of that recipe is a large addition of that fine wine called Barolo pride of the grapes of Piedmont.

The meat took a fantastic flavour and that plate can accompany a polenta or served as second plate with potatoes.

There is also an outstanding production of ham and  Val di Susa Prosciutto is of high qualit ,just like different kind of sausages and local salami such as as the Mocetta,the Viurun and the Mica.

The Suppa Grassa is a soup which has a long history and an ancient local tradition.Born a poor and popular recipe it was kept as a symbol of the most ancient plates of the area.It consists in a sort of stew prepared with breadcrumbs,pieces of different cheeses,butter,pepper,onion and adding to flavour that speciality nutmeg and juniper,all those ingredient are cooked very slow adding stock.

Chestnuts and honey are two other important products of the valley.Thanks to their presence there is a wide productions of cakes and desserts,very famous are the Marrone della Val di Susa which has several local variants in different local areas while the sweet and delectable Marron Glacé is another protagonist of the local gastronomy.

A very popular speciality is the Focaccia della Val di Susa, similar to the French Fougasse or the Ligurian but sweet and it is prepared with flour,sugar,butter and eggs,covered by sugar or caramel.Notable and famous are also local biscuits such as Canestrelli and Tegole while other traditional cakes are the Gaufre similar to a French waffle.

A particular mention deserve the Pan della Marchesa (which translation means bread of the Marquise) a sweet cake prepared with butter,eggs, butter,eggs,nuts,walnuts,sugar,flour,fine chocolate and rum,that speciality is said dating back the medieval times.
.the Valley also produces fine wines next to the grapes typically from Piedmont also cultivated in Val di Susa the famous Dolcetto and Barbera.There are some excellent fine wines DOC such as the Carcairon,Gros Blanc, Blanc,Chatus,Avaná Becquet original from the local area.Piedmont is considered one of Queens among the Italian regions for the productions of fine wines,the local vineyards are linked to an old and classy tradition covering all the territory.

The secrets of the success of those outstanding wines are many.Firstly excellent grapes chose since centuries ago and planted on hills at an ideal altitude,the soil is rich in right compounds for that culture,the winds of the Alps in particular at the end of winter and spring give that other properties which are a plus after a good maturation in summer before the harvest in autumn.

The reds are smooth and classic with an intense colour and richly palatable while the wines apart a pure straw tonality of colour have a savoury dry taste highly appreciated at the first sip not too strong and ideal to accompany several plates.

The International Airport of Turin Caselle is situated at 91,0 kilometres from the town and in about one hour driving along the Motorway A32 in direction Sestriere,Modane you will be at destination.

Salbertrand is a shining jewel of that corner of  Piedmont region.If you are planning to visit Italy and that area you will discover a mine of treasures,history,art,nature,unforgettable landscapes a very genuine and healthy gastronomy,very kind people,outstanding services and facilities to practise several activities.

A stop,a visit,an excursion or why not a stay in that area will transmit you the special charm of that place between art and mountains.

 Salbertrand is a destination with a relevant history and culture a superb mixture of stunning attractions combined in a great natural scenery you will enjoy so much.

Francesco Mari



Recommended Accommodations in Proximity of Salbetrand at Oulx  at 5,0 km approximately from the town of Salbetrand.

Hotel Oberje Dla Viere
Hotel Chez Toi
B&B Biancospino
Residence Hotel La Cascina Genzianella


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